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Anonymous Posted on Dec 18, 2009

Husqvarna 340 oiler not working

This is the post for the 340 husqvarna oiler not working.thank you for the manual web sites very helpful it was the first manual listed.have one ordered a pump piston, but i can not find an adjustment screw for the oiler i cleaned that saw looked it over with a flashlight i see no adjustment from what i read to there is suppose to be one.

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  • Master 2,220 Answers
  • Posted on Dec 18, 2009
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Hello again Rudy.
Please reply below (Add Comments) with the serial number of your saw then I can investigate a little further.
You can reply even when the question is closed. I am not certain how but I get email notification of your reply when done correctly. If equipped the oiler adjustment is below the crankshaft on the clutch side. Look up from the bottom. On the side of my 359 is an icon of a link of chain with a drop of oil above it. The oiler adjustment is aft of that and can only be seen from the bottom of the saw. The manual I saw said 3 position only with CCW (3 - 18 to 20" bar) most oil. Forcing it beyond the stops causes a lot of problems.
http://weborder.husqvarna.com/order_static/doc/HOUS/HOUS2007/HOUS2007_1150331-95.pdf
Page 36
Is your serial number is between 07 18##### and 08 17#####?
Page 5 item 1 shows location of the serial number. Not all newer saws have an adjustable oiler. Please reply below.
Lou

  • Anonymous Dec 18, 2009

    See the note (350) on page 36? Call your local Husky dealer, yours may not be equipped with an adjustable oiler. The IPL hinted at that. If not equipped file away the modification idea for next time. I will bet the 350 oiler parts will fit your 340 giving you an adjustable oiler. Your local Husky dealer can probably answer that question too. Good Luck

    Lou

  • Theo Triumphman
    Theo Triumphman Jun 09, 2019

    There is no adjustment screw on the 2003 Model # 340. My chain is dry. I have to oil it manually or risk burning up the chain & bar ! Husky- bad design ! Should have bought a Stihl saw Next time I will !!

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HusqvarnaUSA.com
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Intermediate class saws often have a 3 position oiler. The professional grades have fully adjustable oilers.
HusqvarnaUSA.com
http://www.husqvarna.com/us/homeowner/support/download-manuals/
Enter the 3 digit model number (no XPs, Es, just the numbers)
Serial number decode – useful when downloading IPLs and Manuals
06 1500198
06 = year produced – 2006 (single digit before 2000; please contact Husqvarna for single digit clarification http://www.husqvarna.com/us/homeowner/support/customer-support/)
15 = week produced – March
00198 = 198th unit Husky produced that week

Oil System Plugged:
  1. Remove the clutch cover, bar, and chain, clean the bar groove, any holes and passages on the rear of the bar (both sides, consider rotating the bar), if equipped with a sprocket nose ensure it rotates easily at least one complete revolution. Clean the saw oiler hole and channel. Insert a blunted, hooked piece of wire through the oil filler hole and pull the hose in the oil tank out. Pay attention to the screen or filter on the free end (clean or replace, difficult to determine serviceability). Start the saw and see if it oils when revved up (oozes down side of saw). If yes reassemble your saw. If no, continue with 2.
  2. Work your way through the linkage (use IPL to identify components and locations) cleaning and replacing any defective parts as you go. Carefully check the hoses for cracks especially at bends and connections. If equipped with an oil pump it is usually behind the clutch (clutch is a left handed thread). Please make extensive notes & some digital pictures will help during reassembly.
If it does not oil on completion of 1 it is most likely a bad oiler or worm gear (see IPL).

If you have more questions or need additional help please reply below and I will get back to you. HTH & Good Luck.
Lou
Thank You for using FixYa.
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If it pumps then quits perhaps the tank vent is plugged. When it quits roll the saw, loosen;;; then tighten the oil cap. If it no better post back (below) with a model and serial number and we will analyze your oil system. If it works post back with numbers and I can at least provide a link to your exploded parts list.

If you have more questions or need additional help please reply below and I will get back to you. Thank you for using FixYa and Good Luck. HTH
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If you want to do some research start with the IPLs here:
HusqvarnaUSA.com
http://www.husqvarna.com/us/homeowner/support/download-manuals/
Enter the 3 digit model number (no XPs, Es, just the numbers)
Serial number decode – useful when downloading IPLs and Manuals
06 1500198
06 = year produced – 2006 (single digit before 2000)
15 = week produced - March
00198 = 198th unit Husky produced that week
Please post back (below) with what happens at the dealer. Take your buddy and his saw with you! Good Luck. HTH
Lou
If Husky starts modifying all these with 350 oilers I want compensation...LOL
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Husqvarna 340 oiler not working cleaned tank and saw still won't give any oil.

I opened the 2008 "Operator's Manual" and was pleasantly surprised to find an oiler adjustment. I think you are aware of it and it did not solve your problem.
HusqvarnaUSA.com
http://www.husqvarna.com/us/homeowner/support/download-manuals/
Enter the 3 digit model number (no XPs, Es, just the numbers)
Serial number decode – useful when downloading IPLs and Manuals
06 1500198
06 = year produced – 2006 (single digit before 2000)
15 = week produced - March
00198 = 198th unit Husky produced that week

If my thinking is correct the next most logical problem is the oil pump or worm gear.
Detail B here: (May not be your saw)
http://weborder.husqvarna.com/order_static/doc/USA/2007/I07000/I0701021.pdf
Oil System Plugged.

  1. Remove the clutch cover, bar, and chain, clean the bar groove, any holes and passages on the rear of the bar (both sides, consider rotating the bar) Clean the saw oiler hole and channel. Start the saw and see if it oils when revved up. If yes reassemble your saw. If no, continue with 2.
  2. Insert a blunted, hooked piece of wire through the oil filler hole and pull the hose in the oil tank out (clean or replace, difficult to determine serviceability). Work your way through the linkage cleaning and replacing any defective parts as you go. Carefully check the hoses for cracks especially at bends and connections. If equipped with an oil pump it is usually behind the clutch (clutch is a left handed thread). Please make extensive notes & some digital pictures will help during reassembly.
Behind the Outboard clutch.
View this to help with removal:
R² Drive Link Outboard Clutch by Drivelink.blogspot.com
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cdqkIuVNUQc
  1. Check the IPL for your saw to see if any special tools are needed.
  2. There are metal piston stops available, when square (almost never) with the piston top these work well, if not square they have been known to punch through the piston. I suggest a length of starter cord or nylon rope be used instead of the piston stop (retain 6" ± so you can remove it). Make sure the piston is near the top of the cylinder before feeding the cord or it can fall through the exhaust port and damage the piston as it rises.
  3. Everyone I have ever removed had a left handed thread (tighten it to loosen it).
    Let us know how it worked for you. GL
Lou
If I can be of more help please add comments below or repost.

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