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Sounds like you have a short or a draw in the electrical system . I assume you use the key to turn the bike on and off. One place to look that can cause issues is the brake light. May well be that the rear brake switch is bad or shorted.
Hi, Derek before testing any electrical component in the Charging System it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test because your battery may have 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage and must be replaced AGM types more so than lead acid batteries.
1. Battery Test:
The battery needs to be a fully charged and load tested to ensure proper readings, connections need to be clean and tight. If you are not working with a fully charged and functional battery, all other voltage tests will be incorrect. Standing battery Voltage should be 12.5-13.2 DCV.
2. Charging System Voltage Test:
Start motorcycle, measure DC volts across the battery terminals you should have a reading of approximately 13.2-15 DC Volts.
3. Connections and wires:
Inspect the regulator stator plug, and check the battery terminals for connection corrosion. If everything seems to be in order, move on to number 4 below to determine if there's a failed component.
4. Stator Checks/Rotor Check: Each of the following tests isolates the Stator & Rotor. If AC output and resistance test fail and stator test passes then the rotor is at fault (Pull Primary covers and inspect rotor for damage).
5. AC Output Check:
Unplug the regulator plug from the stator start motorcycle and change Voltmeter to AC volts. Probe both stator wires with your meter lead. The motorcycle should be putting out approximately 18-20 ACV per 1,000 rpm. Reading will vary depending on system, check service manual specification
22 amp system produces about 19-26 VAC per 1,000 rpm
32 amp system produces about 16-20 VAC per 1,000 rpm
45 amp system produces about 19-26 VAC per 1,000 rpm
Stator Resistance Check:
Switch your multimeter to Ohm x 1 scale. Probe each stator wires with meter leads and check resistance on the meter.
Resistance should be in the range of 0.1-0.5 Ohms. Reading will vary depending on the system, check the service manual for specifications.
22 amp system produces about 0.2 to 0.4 ohms
32 amp system produces about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms
45 amp system produces about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms
Stator ground Check:
Switch your multimeter to Ohm x 1 scale.
Probe each stator wire with your positive lead on the multimeter and the negative to ground.
There should be no continuity to ground on either wire.
If there is continuity your stator is shorted to ground and must be replaced.
5. Regulator Test:
Each of the following tests isolates the regulator only, so if any of these tests fail, the regulator is at fault.
Battery Charge Lead- Wire going from regulator to battery positive.
AC output leads- Wires coming from the Stator to the regulator.
Ground- Wire from Regulator to ground or regulator may be grounded via the physical bolting to chassis.
Regulator Ground Test: Ensure the regulator body is grounded or grounding wire is fastened tightly to a good ground (you should verify this by checking continuity from regulator body to chassis ground).
Fwd/Reverse Bias Test/Diode Test:
This check is testing the Diode function to ensure it is regulating the AC current for the stator into DC Current.
Switch multimeter to Diode Scale.
Place your Multimeter positive lead on each AC output wire.
Place your multimeter negative lead on the battery Charge wire.
The meter should read voltage typically around .5 volts.
Next, switch your multimeter leads putting the negative lead on the AC output wires and the Positive lead on the Battery Charge Wire. The reading should be Infinite. With your meter on the same setting, place your multimeter positive lead on the regulator ground wire or to the regulator directly, and then place your meter negative lead on the AC output leads.
The meter should read voltage typically around .5 volts.
Next, switch your multimeter leads putting the negative lead on the regulator ground and the Positive lead on the AC output wires. The reading should be Infinite.
Note: Below is a table to show the readings:
Positive Lead Negative Lead Reading
AC output 1 Battery charge lead Voltage
AC output 2 Battery Charge Lead Voltage
Battery charge lead AC output 1 ?
Battery charge lead AC output 2 ?
Ground AC output 1 Voltage
Ground AC output 2 Voltage
AC output 1 Ground ?
AC output 2 Ground ?
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day. Regulator Rectifier Motorbike testing blown or not mp4 Triumph Daytona 600 Regulator Rectifier upgrade Triumph 2003 Daytona 600 Service Manual http://www.bikebandit.com/oem-parts/2005-triumph-daytona-600-650-sump/o/m17663sch569813 Triumph DAYTONA 650 Manual
You need to measure the charging voltage and current using a multimeter while Rev'ing the engine. If there is no clean flow to the battery then you need to start from the alternator, the output ac and the charging regulator section which rectifies and controls the charging. The alternator can be taken out and checked individually , if there is a steady AC flow. Check the battery ground and also the charging regulator which is usually an extra unit- trace the lines of the alternator to this unit.
Please find some tips below .
Hi if battery is fully charged the charging system wont put in more than it needs so 12.5 volts is adequate try putting the lights on and raising the revs and checking the output at the battery if its still the same or lower then you could have a problem usual faults are with the voltage regulater rectifier breaking down if you follow the wires back from the alternater/generator should be three yellow wires to an aluminium finned block under the sidepanel check the output to this unit from the alternater and see if its the same or similar output if your only getting 12.5 volts from the alternater then your problem is with your alternater and it may need replacing but if voltage is good 13.5+
then you either have broken wires to the regulater rectifier or a faulty regulater rectifier a good swop
if a genuine regulater rectifier isnt available and the fact that they were allways a bit trashy any way is to fit one from a honda cb250 superdream as they were much easier to find and cheaper to buy second hand from a breakers yard
Check the battery connections. 95% of the problems I have had with electrical problems are at the battery connections because a small amount of corrosion has built up. This will not allow the charging system to charge the battery properly and is the most often overlooked problem, even by trained shops. Remove the terminals and clean then thoroughly with a terminal wire brush. Its a cone shaped wite brush you can get and any NAPA or equivilant store. Clean both the battery side and the wire side. Forget useing thos goofy grean and red corrosion resistant discs.
Replace the terminals and charge the battery. I think that should fix your issue.
you will get some funny answers from some of these "experts " The symptoms suggest to me with out much doubt that the regulator is not doing its job correctly ,consistently.Iwould take it to an AUTO ELECTRICIAN and get it tested in situ.... there is only 4 things it can be , wireing ---battery---alternator-----regulator and of those the reg. is the only one that chops and changes. it will cost little for a sparky to check the reg ,. AND I WOULD LIKE TO KNOW THE OUTCOME
If your voltage regulater in the charging system (distributor, altinater, battery, PCM) was replaced then the entire PCM where the volt. regulator nis held should have been replaced, so hopefully it was.
To check the charging system make sure when the truck is running the battery reads 13.5 to 14.5 volts (may go as high as 16) and when not running the battery should be at 12 volts. Any high and low voltages meen that the regulater or PCM are still bad and could be your problem.
to check the wiper circuit, pull its fuse and place a continuity tester over the fuse positions terminals, should have continuity, if not you have a wiring issue and the circuit needs tested at different sections until the break is found. Also the tester to check the wipers ground, place one test lead on a known/good grounding spot and the other on your wiper ground if there is no continuity than you are not grounded and you have to find the short.
You can get a Haynes repair manual that has all circuit diagrams in it, if your able to read circuit diagrams, hope this helps.