How do i remove impeller from water pump on wr250f 2003
I am havivg difficulty finding how to replace the water seal in the water pump i have a new seal but cant seem to get the impeller out. what do i need to remove to get something to hold onto to undo the impeller?
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Re: how do i remove impeller from water pump on wr250f...
I am sending you to a web site where you can download a free factory service manual. The removal procedures are in the manual as well as everything else on the bike. The manual on the site is 2003. If you are within 3 years before or after '03 the manual will work for you. What you will do is put a wrench on the impeller shaft next to the gear then the impeller can be unscrewed just as if it were a nut. Please take a moment and rate my answer. Thanks!
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It is a simple problem the mechanical seal is damaged in some way, all you have to do is remove the casing and impeller (if the impeller does not have a bolt on the end then it is screwed on) and behind the impeller is a spring thing (1/2 of the seal) pull it off, the other half of the seal is in the adapter, you will have to remove the adapter to take the other half of the seal out, you can call us at Ken's Distributing Company 800-575-1935 or find a local pump dealer who is familiar with Diamond pumps and then replace the old seal with a new one, I would also get a casing gasket. Good Luck!
This is telling you your oil and water seal need replacing ASAP do not ride until fixed as you will seize bottom end guaranteed !
there is small seal each side of your water pump impeller when you take the impeller out replace both even if only one needs doing as you will be going back to replace the one left soon after as they always go together..
Most people would not do this repair without replacing the impeller as well - usually the impeller starts to wear groves where it spins inside the seals then damages the seals So you get the theory behind replacing the whole lot as old impeller can damage your new seals
The seep hole is designed to give you warning of burst seal before its way to late as without the seep hole leak you would have no idea you are leaking coolant into the motor
You can do your self its a bit of work but not complicated - if you do your self don't forget to change your engine oil couple of times after first few rides reduce any risk of having coolant inside it where it should not be
good luck regards Jamie
The shaft seal more likely than not needs to be replaced. If your shaft seal has been leaking for any length of time, the bearings could be damaged and this should be replaced. The whisperflow uses a PS1000 shaft seal and is fairly easy to replace (most seals available online or at most swimming pool retail stores). It is best advised not to run the pump until you have had this inspected by a licensed pool technician or have changed out the seal.
1) Make sure breaker/power to pump is off. 2) Remove the six bolts holding the wet end to the seal plate. 3) Remove the diffuser to expose the impeller. 4) Remove the screw in the middle of the impeller by turning clockwise (left hand threads). 5) Remove the dust cap at the rear of the motor and use a wrench to hold the shaft while you remove the impeller by turning counterclockwise. 6) Once the impeller is off, remove the four bolts holding the seal plate to the motor. 7) Press the old seal out of the seal plate and clean it thoroughly. Remove the ceramic part of the seal from the impeller and clean it thoroughly as well. 8) Apply a thin coat of lube (I prefer Magic Lube or Lube Tube) to the seal plate and impeller where the new seal will go. 9) Remove the new PS1000 shaft seal from the box (being careful *NOT* to touch the ceramic or carbon face with your fingers), press the metal part into the seal plate carefully, try not to bend the metal and make sure its completely seated against the seal plate. 10) You can now install the seal plate back onto the motor and secure with four bolts. Press the ceramic part into the impeller, use cardboard or paper between your fingers and the ceramic face.11) Once you have seated the seal into the impeller, hold the motor shaft and thread the impeller on until snug, then reinstall the stainless screw, remember it is left hand thread so you'll have to turn it counterclockwise. 12) Reinstall the diffuser over the impeller and then install the wet end onto the seal plate using the six bolts, don't overtighten them. Check the pump for operation and you should be good to go!
For an impeller really stuck on the motor shaft you need to pull the motor thru-bolts and remove the rotor with the pump still attached from the stator. Lock the rotor in a vice and turn the impeller off with a large set of channel locks or a large strap wrench.
No, but it could be the impeller inside the water pump, has come loose from the impeller shaft.
A leaking seal indicates that the bearing, or bearings, for the impeller shaft are bad.
I have replaced water pumps, (With a brand new one), and have had to remove it, and reinstall with another one. Why? Impeller is spinning around on the impeller shaft. The machining done was a bad job, and the impeller wasn't staked to the impeller shaft.
Bearing on new motor failed for some reason, Make sure the new one will last, check that all shields and water deflecters are in place and that pump seal is not leaking. New motor bearings should be sealed but water has a bad habit of getting into anytging we try to keep dry.
I recomend replacement of pump seal whenever pump is opened and impeller is removed, cheep insurance. Take your time and make sure everything is clean as it goes back together, don't lubricate the pump seal faces, the ceramic faces are designed to be self lubricating and anything (even fingerprint oils) on them can cause a leak.
First you remove the four 8mm bolt that attach the water pump cover to the side cover, the lowest bolt will drain the coolant. next you remove the coolant pipe with one 8mm bolt. The water pump cover like any part that has been in place for years may need some force to remove and that is why you will find two tabs around the outside of the pump cover for prying it off.
Once you have the cover off the impeller unscrews by way of a built in 10mm nut. This nut is right hand threaded and is removable by rotating it counter clockwise with preferably a 6 point socket as a 12 point socket may round the nut sides since the impeller and built in nut are made of aluminum.
To replace the twin seals (one for water/coolant and one for oil) you must remove the engine side cover from the motor and pull the impeller shaft out from the engine side of the cover. After the shaft has been removed the bearing is pulled out with a bearing puller or sometimes it can be removed by pushing it out from the outside in with a makeshift driver but the bearing can be damaged by this method and it is not recommended. The old seals can now be pulled out or pushed out from the opposite side.
To replace the new seals you must drive them in perpendicular to the impeller shaft with the manufacture markings to the inside. The water seal is installed from the outside and the oils seal from the inside.
There is a tool used for installing the seals called a seal driver but you could make one in a pinch. The seal driver makes contact with the outside diameter of the seal where it is solid and has a metal core. The inside diameter is soft and flexible and should not be used to push the seal in place however it can be used to keep the seal driver centered over the outer diameter and to keep the seal moving in a strait line perpendicular to the impeller shaft.
Once the new seals are in place they should be greased with some lithium soap based grease.
Install the bearing and reassemble the impeller shaft then you are ready to reassemble the engine side cover and water pump housing but make sure you spin the water pump impeller slowly as you install the engine side cover as the impeller shaft is driven off the engine shaft behind it and the shaft needs to be aligned in order for it to fall in place (do not try to force the cover on).