Question about 1999 Aprilia RS 125 Extrema

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Just run in after complete rebuild and new power there is flames comeing out of the exhaust.and it seems to loose power after shutting off for a corner.also just put new plug in.

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The flames from the exhaust means your fuel system is rich. If it's losing power and bogging down in a turn (leaned over) or in a wheelie makes me think your float level height is to high. Could also be your mixture screw just needs to be adjusted.

Posted on Dec 10, 2009


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My York furnace sometimes doesn't completely ignite

A noisy inducer probably is headed for replacement.

The igniter can produce a healthy glow and still be defective. Mine had to be replaced with a new, improved one.

The thermocouple could be defective even though it seems to open the gas valve when it should.

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I have a Kenmore Dryer Mod#110 62722101. It will run about 10 minutes and shut off, after a cool down period it will restart but only run about 10 mins. Heats, fine, tumbles fine. A few days before this...

If it runs after a cool down period, then the high temperature limit is part of the cause. What is causing the high temperature limit to overheat is next.
Strong stream of air should be felt coming out the exhaust, make sure this exhaust air works or the burner part will overheat and cut out the flame/burner on hight temp safety.
With good exhaust air varified, the drying air operating temperature sensor needs to be checked, this cuts power to the burner. The sensor must open electricaly when satisified on temperature and should be properly mounted for proper sensing of temperature.
Bottom line: Check the hot air and its control

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If the burners come on for a few seconds and shut off check the flame sensor near the burners and clean it with steel wool, usually this will fix the problem. The flame sensor is a metal rod that is immersed in the burner flame on the opposite side of the igniter. robhvac47_7.jpg

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Buner does not shut completly off. flame lingers near orifice. how determine if its the gas valve or temp control?

The thermostat is a snap action. It is either completely on or completely off. The combination valve may be letting a little extra gas pass by the main valve. Unless it is a significient amount of flame or it continues for more than a minute or two, just keep an eye on it. It is not unusual to see a tiny flame at the orifice, but it usually dies out in less than a minute or so. You can get a rebuild kit for the gas valve. The complete valve is around $150.00. You will need to get the model number and the serial number of the fryer, to buy either the valve or the rebuild kit. If you are very confident in your abilities to do a gas valve rebuild it should take a couple of hours to remove the valve by removing the main gas line, then the manifold that runs to the burners. You will also have to remove the wires that run to the high limit switch and thermostats. Be sure to mark the wires as you remove them. The gaskets are very fragile. As you take the valve apart lay everything in order so that you may retrace your steps in putting it back together. There is an exploded view of the valve in the rebuild kit. You MUST check for gas leaks before lighting the fryer after you have rebuilt the valve. With the gas pressure on, but the pilot not lit, spray the entire valve with liquid leak detector, available at the same place you get the rebuild kit. You can also use dishwashing liquid, but either way look for bubbles at all the gasket locations as well as the gas pipes and manifold that you removed. If you see ANY bubbles, don't light the pilot. Start over with new gaskets. Hope this helps

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You might want to replace the thermacouplar. Sometimes when they are going out , all will appear to be alright but as you stated it takes a long time for the flame to come back on. This sounds to me like the thermacouplar is going out.

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