These are notorius for clutch bleeding problems, there is no good answer other than to keep pumping that pedal, eventually it will bleed out
On a Ford Ranger you need to have the clutch master cylinder facing up when you are looking at it mounted on the vechile it is pointing down you need to have it facing up and also have a bleeding tool I went out and bought a POhoenix Injector which makes it real easy and you can do it buy your self. Good luck
If you will disconnect your clutch line from the transmission (pressing the quick connector sleeve) and then have someone pump the brakes and then poke something in the end of the line to relieve the pressure and bleed it that way. Do this until the pedal is strong. Then connect the line up and bleed through the bleeder valve on the transmission. Keep an eye on the resevoir. You might want to take the rubber piece out and fill it to the top. This is the only way I have been able to get two of these new clutches to bleed.
If this doesn't work, you will need to remove the clutch master cylinder and reservoir assembly and bleed it form outside the truck. Aim the master cylinder upwards while someone holds the reservoir and pump the cylinder with a screwdriver. The air will run up and out of the reservoir. Also, you may want to pump and release the valve that connects to the slave cylinder too.
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Usely the lines dry rot easy on these vehicles check them
SOURCE: replaced clutch & slave cylinder on 2001 ford ranger can't bleed
Do a web search on it, and it will tell you the proper way to bleed it.
SOURCE: replaced slave cylinder 2004 ford ranger 4x4 still no pedal
I had the same problem with my 1995 1500 p.u.. Assuming your clutch slave cylinder is the concentric style. If not disregard. I hate that set up. what the hell was wrong with the old outside of the bell housing slave/ mechanical style fork and throw out bearing bla bla? Its because ford as well of the rest of the lovely auto makers decided long ago to make them as hard as hell to repair on you own. Ive been told theres a spsecial tool just for this bleeding task. Pobably. They make those tools to sell to us so they can further profit from us poor suckers.Also I wonder on your model if its concentric, does it have the difficult sized bleeder valve as mine did? or have they gotten a little more user friendly? doubt it. In my case as this style is a closed system I followed the bleeding intructions to a tee. That did get alot more clutch action for me, after 15 attempts.However I do believe the problem after looking and further inspection under the dash? look up under the dash and inspect your pedal rack and frame. I found mine was cracked and the cause of poor aliegnment. check for that rite away. I located another rack but before I got around to replacing it, the tranny blew, and the trucks sitting on my dads property. Its still a danmed good truck and one of these days I will get on it again. Anyway up untill the tranny blew I was never able to get more than half the distance from the pedal and besides the rack problem I would love to know the bleeding anser, that is if Im off target. Going to be up against it again when I replace that transmission. Hope this helps a little. Food for thought maybe? If you find out something more helpful post it so I will know too.
SOURCE: i have A 1998 FORD RANGER EXT. CAB W/ 6 CYL.- 4.0
Take the top off the master cyl and slowly very slow push in on the clutch and watch for any bubbles comming up.Replace the top and pump pressure and bleed at the master direct by using the lines for bleeders.
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