1983 aspencade will barely run have eliminated all but spark units none are available help fuel system is ok compression is normal coils test good

NO COUNTRY TOLD OR VIN.
SCAN THE PCM FIRST (OBD2) FOR TWB ERRORS. (throttle by wire) DTC errors
scan the PCM first at the OBD2 16pin port, USA scans tools work on this car if car is USA car, not told yet.


THROTTLE BY WIRE MUST NOT BE FAILING.
WATCH OUT FOR ISUZU PARTS NOT SOLD AT SCALPING PRICES. (some vary rare)
yes 3.2L engine not 3.5 or 2.2
basic basics (redux after facts told)
engine good, compression good yes 175psi (12bar)
engine pumps air!, vacuum good, CAT not melted.
EGR not stuck open allowed cranking or at idle ever.
spark good. yes, has 6 COP coils new spark plugs and the cop coil boots not bad and carbon tracked bad.

now test fuel runs. oops forgot that why?
I guess the engine starts some or random and when does
back smoke happens
well if FPR is bad, fuel pressure regulator too high does that. smoke. thing.
NO IAC idle air valve (separated) it is now part of TB with motor drive throttle. called TBW this year 3.2L
IAc was on 1999, now gone.
TB = throttle body, all these words xyz are ASE , EFI names. a standard in the USA.

IF TB is bad, crank with 5% added foot throttle to add air and now idle is good?
this engine has TBW, throttle body ,throttle by wire.
we scan the PCM first to see of TB or pedal fails.


SO FAR TESTS SHOW:
NO ScaNS DONE, AND MAKES THE JOB 10X MORE HARD.
good engine
good spark
good fueling are the test for sure 22 year old cars.
on old cars we do all the tests. (lots there are)
good fueling includes AIR, or fuel mix fails.

the TB ,TV MOTOR DRIVE valve must not be stuck closed. (TV INSIDE TB IS THROTTLE VALVE )
the TBW , throttle valve motor , not dead.
if you use a scan tool it will tell you of TBW fails.

The pick-up module located on the stator is on its way out. That is normally the symptoms right before they stop working.

Kawasaki Eliminator BN 175

The engine is suddenly dying and it seems like it's hot, even when the machine is hot or running.

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Make sure the battery has a full charge. Sometimes with a lot of testing/cranking, it will run the battery down.
If you still have spark at all the plugs, use a gage and check proper fuel pressure, engine cranking. I've seen fuel pumps that would run, but, wouldn't make good fuel pressure. Also, check fuel injector pulse, engine cranking. Any applicable trouble codes?

All "crank, no start" conditions are approached in the same way. Every engine requires certain functions to be able to run. Some of these functions rely on specific components to work and some components are part of more than one function so it is important to see the whole picture to be able to conclude anything about what may have failed. Also, these functions can ONLY be tested during the failure. Any other time and they will simply test good because the problem isn't present at the moment.
If you approach this in any other way, you are merely guessing and that only serves to replace unnecessary parts and wastes money.



Every engine requires spark, fuel and compression to run. That's what we have to look for.

These are the basics that need to be tested and will give us the info required to isolate a cause.

1) Test for spark at the plug end of the wire using a spark tester. If none found, check for power supply on the + terminal of the coil with the key on.


2) Test for injector pulse using a small bulb called a noid light. If none found, check for power supply at one side of the injector with the key on.


3) Use a fuel pressure gauge to test for correct fuel pressure, also noticing if the pressure holds when key is shut off.

4) If all of these things check good, then you would need to do a complete compression test.

Once you have determined which of these functions has dropped out,
you will know which system is having the problem.

hi there jaybolt

here is a website for parts

http://www.partstree.com/parts/?lc=echo&mn=SRM-2100+Type+1+S%2FN%3A+001001+-+159490

all being well and compression and spark and timming , muffler is clear , carby is clean , and diaphrams are all ok you mention carb rebuilt , fresh mix , and fuel filter and lines are good

does the unit run with 2 stroke mix in the plug hole - then stop ?
if yes assume compression and spark are ok,, if no check compression and spark and muffler

will the unit run with 2 stroke mix sprayed into the carby throat, then stop ?

if it does sounds like you have a air leak somewhere in the intake system

could be at barrel base gasket, c/case joint, manifold boot/ block gasket, carby gasket , impulse hose ,if this unit has one , c/case main seals leaking

2 strokes need air tight c/cases in order to pump fuel / air / oil mixture from c/case to cylinder
and to create a vacuum for entry of fuel/ air / oil mix from carb to c/case

symptoms of air leak are -: hard to start, wont idle, stalling, low power, inconsistant idle, over rev
overheat

pressure and vacuum testing can be done by blocking off intake and exhaust with rubber and metal plates , then fitting adapter to spark plug hole , and placing piston at bdc , pressureise cylinder to 7 to 8 psi of pressure and check areas , base gasket, manifold joint, main seals, , impulse hose ? for leaks with soapy water - if leaking bubbles will be evident

if no leaks and pressure is held at 7 psi for at least 2 minutes with dropping - presure test is good
next do the same test using vaccuum again go to 20 - 30 inch / vaccuum

if vaccuum held unit is ok

suggest take a good look at carby and recheck its rebuilt correctly and setup particularly if P and V test are good and spark coil tests good with a coil load test using a spark gap of 6.00 mm to stress the coil ( simulates spark under compression load)

have a look and let me know what you find

cheers pauly46

hi there

paul 46 here.

all being well and compression and spark and timming , muffler is clear , carby is clean , and diaphrams are all ok , fresh mix , and fuel filter and lines are good

does the unit run with 2 stroke mix in the plug hole - ?
if yes assume compression and spark are ok,, if no check compression and spark and muffler

will the unit run with 2 stroke mix sprayed into the carby throat ?

if it does sounds like you have a air leak somewhere in the intake system

could be at barrel base gasket, c/case joint, manifold boot/ block gasket, carby gasket , impulse hose ,if this unit has one , c/case main seals leaking

2 strokes need air tight c/cases in order to pump fuel / air / oil mixture from c/case to cylinder
and to create a vacuum for entry of fuel/ air / oil mix from carb to c/case

symptoms of air leak are -: hard to start, wont idle, stalling, low power, inconsistant idle, over rev
overheat

pressure and vacuum testing can be done by blocking off intake and exhaust with rubber and metal plates , then fitting adapter to spark plug hole , and placing piston at bdc , pressureise cylinder to 7 to 8 psi of pressure and check areas , base gasket, manifold joint, main seals, , impulse hose ? for leaks with soapy water - if leaking bubbles will be evident

if no leaks and pressure is held at 7 psi for at least 2 minutes with dropping - presure test is good
next do the same test using vaccuum again go to 20 - 30 inch / vaccuum

if vaccuum held unit is ok

suggest take a good look at carby particularly if P and V test are good and spark coil tests good with a coil load test using a spark gap of 6.00 mm to stress the coil ( simulates spark under compression load)

have a look and let me know what you find

cheers pauly46

For an engine to run, you need three things to happen inside the engine, compression, fuel and ignition, without any one of these components the engine will not run.

• Compression - Engine compression caused by crankshaft rotation and pistons moving up and down inside the engine block. If the timing belt or timing chain fails it will cause the camshaft to become out of correlation with the crankshaft or allow the camshaft to stop rotating. Either of these conditions will cause the engine to lose compression and sometimes cause internal engine damage.
  
• Fuel Delivery System - The fuel system includes: fuel pump, fuel injectors, pressure regulator, fuel filter and pressure lines. This system is used to supply fuel under pressure to the fuel injection system, the lack of fuel pressure or volume will cause the fuel delivery system to fail and the engine to stall or not start.
  
• Ignition Spark Delivery System - The ignition system components include: spark plugs, spark plug wires, distributor (if applicable), crankshaft angle sensor, camshaft angle sensor, ignition coil, ignition module, knock sensor and ECM (engine control module). The engine relies on the ignition spark to be delivered to the combustion camber at the correct time. If the ignition spark stops or is delivered at the wrong time the engine will not run or run poorly.
  

If Your Engine Cranks but Does Not Start Follow this Troubleshooting Guide
Most vehicles operate by the same principle; basic troubleshooting procedures apply to most cars.

• Step 1: Anytime you have a problem with electronically controlled components such as an engine, transmission, ABS brake, or SRS (supplemental restraint system, Air Bag) inspect all fuses using a test light and check the under hood power distribution center and under dash fuse panels. If all fuses test ok continue to the next step.
  
• Step 2: To check for problems with electronically controlled components such as an engine, transmission, ABS brake, or SRS (supplemental restraint system, Air Bag) and the fuses test ok a trouble code scan is needed to identify any system trouble. Use a simple scanner tool to retrieve trouble codes and see if they relate to the specific problem, like a crank angle sensor failure code. If the trouble code present does not pertain to the immediate problem like an EVAP code ignore it until a later time, after the car is running. The reason we repair non-related codes after the engine is running is because sometime false codes can be triggered by the engine not running. Once the engine is running again the code present might cycle and turn itself off. You might say "if the engine doesn't run shouldn't it have a trouble code?" Sometimes conditions occur that will not be detected by the computer, example: if the fuel pump fails the computer cannot detect the failure, so the engine doesn't start and the computer thinks everything is ok with no codes. If no trouble codes are present proceed to the next step.
  

Scan for Trouble Codes

• Step 3: The spark plugs in your engine are used to ignite the compressed fuel air mixture. If the condition of the spark plugs are fouled by excessive fuel or carbon the engine will not start, backfire or run rough. Remove all spark plugs to inspect their condition. Please use this spark plug condition reference guide to see how the spark plugs are operating.
  
• Step 4: Determine if the engine has compression, this can be done a number of ways but the most complete method is to perform a compression check. Remove the spark plugs and perform a compression test on one cylinder. If one cylinder has compression then the remaining cylinders usually will be close to the same. Crank the engine over about 5 seconds, normal compression readings should be between 125 psi and 160 psi on each cylinder. If no or little compression exists additional tests will be needed. The most common reason for an engine to lose compression is a timing belt or timing chain failure. If low or no compression exists remove the oil fill cap and observe camshaft rotation when the engine is cranked over. If no rotation exists the timing belt or chain has failed. If your engine has a timing belt and you cannot see the camshaft easily remove the upper bolts to the timing cover and gain visual access to the belt, recheck cam rotation by cranking the engine over. Sometimes a timing belt or chain can jump causing the camshaft to lose correlation with the crankshaft and therefore causing low compression. The best test for this condition is to remove the timing belt/chain cover and inspect timing marks. If the compression is ok proceed to next step.
  
• Step 5: Test the ignition system output, ignition systems can vary in configuration but operate on the same principal. Ignition systems can consist of a coil, pick up coil, crank angle sensor, cam angle sensor, spark plugs, spark plug wires, distributor cap, ignition rotor and a distributor and any variations of these components. An ignition coil is a voltage stepper coil that transforms a low voltage (12 volts) signal into tens of thousands of volts needed to jump the gap of the spark plug. This coil is activated by an ignition module triggered by using the camshaft/crankshaft angle sensor; timing is adjusted by the ECM (computer).
  This primary electrical signal is generated by the ECM which calculates spark timing by using a variety of sensors including coolant temperature, mass air flow, and oxygen sensors. To perform a basic ignition output test you must have a test light and follow this ignition system output test video.
  
  Distributor less Ignition System Configuration
  Some ignition systems have a coil for each spark plug. This is called Direct Ignition (DI) system; there are no plug wires in this system just individually controlled ignition coils. The amount of coils or spark plugs depend on the number of cylinders the engine is designed with, example: four cylinders, six cylinders etc. To perform a basic ignition output test you must have a test light follow this ignition system output test video and substitute the ignition coil for the plug wire (Note: leave the coil trigger wires connected).
  
  Coil Over Spark Plug
  If the ignition system test is weak or non-existent test the car fuses, both under hood power distribution center and the fuse panel under dash. This test is performed with a test light tool. The test light should illuminate on both sides of the fuse, if not the fuse has failed and needs to be replaced. If the fuses are ok a manufacturer specific repair procedure is required and an online auto repair manual is needed to continue. If the ignition system tests ok proceed to the next step.
  

Test Ignition System Video

Free Auto Repair Advice by Professional Mechanics




Troubleshooting / Car Engine Cranks but Will Not Start / Engine Crank But Wont Start 2

* Why does my engine stall at idle?
* How do I change my spark plugs?
* Why does my engine stall?
* Why does the engine stall after replacing the battery?
* Why won't my engine crank over?
* How to retrieve trouble codes
* How to test fuel delivery system
* Engine cranks excessively
* Engine has excessive smoke
* Rapid ticking sounds when engine is cranked
* How to tune up your engine
* How to jump start your engine
* How to test an oxygen sensor
* How to open a car hood
* How a flywheel - flex plate works

Engine Cranks But Will Not Start

For an engine to run, you need three things to happen inside the engine, compression, fuel and ignition, without any one of these components the engine will not run. Follow the repair guide below:


Engine Configuration with Camshaft Operation

*

Compression - Engine compression caused by crankshaft rotation and pistons moving up and down inside the engine block. If the timing belt or timing chain fails it will cause the camshaft to become out of correlation with the crankshaft or allow the camshaft to stop rotating. Either of these conditions will cause the engine to lose compression and sometimes cause internal engine damage.
*

Fuel Delivery System - The fuel system includes: fuel pump, fuel injectors, pressure regulator, fuel filter and pressure lines. This system is used to supply fuel under pressure to the fuel injection system, the lack of fuel pressure or volume will cause the fuel delivery system to fail and the engine to stall or not start.
*

Ignition Spark Delivery System - The ignition system components include: spark plugs, spark plug wires, distributor (if applicable), crankshaft angle sensor, camshaft angle sensor, ignition coil, ignition module, knock sensor and PCM (engine control module). The engine relies on the ignition spark to be delivered to the combustion camber at the correct time. If the ignition spark stops or is delivered at the wrong time the engine will not run or run poorly.

If your engine cranks but does not start follow this troubleshooting guide:
* Step 1 - Anytime you have a problem with electronically controlled components such as an engine, transmission, ABS brake, or SRS (supplemental restraint system, Air Bag) inspect all fuses using a test light and check the under hood power distribution center and under dash fuse panels. If all fuses test ok continue to the next step.
* Step 2 - To check for problems with electronically controlled components such as an engine, transmission, ABS brake, or SRS (supplemental restraint system, Air Bag) and the fuses test ok a trouble code scan is needed to identify any system trouble. Use a simple scanner tool to retrieve trouble codes and see if they relate to the specific problem, like a crank angle sensor failure code. If the trouble code present does not pertain to the immediate problem like an EVAP code ignore it until a later time, after the car is running. The reason we repair non-related codes after the engine is running is because sometime false codes can be triggered by the engine not running. Once the engine is running again the code present might cycle and turn itself off. You might say "if the engine doesn't run shouldn't it have a trouble code?" Sometimes conditions occur that will not be detected by the computer, example: if the fuel pump fails the computer cannot detect the failure, so the engine doesn't start and the computer thinks everything is ok with no codes. If no trouble codes are present proceed to the next step.
* Step 3 - The spark plugs in your engine are used to ignite the compressed fuel air mixture. If the condition of the spark plugs are fouled by excessive fuel or carbon the engine will not start, backfire or run rough. Remove all spark plugs to inspect their condition. Please use this spark plug condition reference guide to see how the spark plugs are operating.
* Step 4 - Determine if the engine has compression, this can be done a number of ways but the most complete method is to perform a compression check. Remove the spark plugs and perform a compression test on one cylinder. If one cylinder has compression then the remaining cylinders usually will be close to the same. Crank the engine over about 5 seconds, normal compression readings should be between 125 psi and 160 psi on each cylinder. If no or little compression exists additional tests will be needed. The most common reason for an engine to lose compression is a timing belt or timing chain failure. If low or no compression exists remove the oil fill cap and observe camshaft rotation when the engine is cranked over. If no rotation exists the timing belt or chain has failed. If your engine has a timing belt and you cannot see the camshaft easily remove the upper bolts to the timing cover and gain visual access to the belt, recheck cam rotation by cranking the engine over. Sometimes a timing belt or chain can jump causing the camshaft to lose correlation with the crankshaft and therefore causing low compression. The best test for this condition is to remove the timing belt/chain cover and inspect timing marks. If the compression is ok proceed to next step.
* Step 5 - Test the ignition system output, ignition systems can vary in configuration but operate on the same principal. Ignition systems can consist of a coil, pick up coil, crank angle sensor, cam angle sensor, spark plugs, spark plug wires, distributor cap, ignition rotor and a distributor and any variations of these components. An ignition coil is a voltage stepper coil that transforms a low voltage (12 volts) signal into tens of thousands of volts needed to jump the gap of the spark plug. This coil is activated by an ignition module triggered by using the camshaft/crankshaft angle sensor; timing is adjusted by the ECM (computer).

Hope helps (remember rated and comment this).

Hello
Here is what to check let me know if you need help checking this out
most common misfire causes on the cars I've worked on have been:

1. Spark plugs
2. Spark plug wires
3. Ignition coil
4. Fuel injector
5. Wiring to fuel injector
6. Timing Belt
7. Vacuum leak or stuck open EGR
8. Contaminated fuel or bad fuel pump
9. Weak compression
10. Blown head gasket