Question about 2004 Honda CRF 230 F

1 Answer

I over torq and broke one of the 4 nuts and stud on the lower right front fork, is the stud a reverse thread, i've got to replace the studs?

Posted by on

1 Answer

  • Level 2:

    An expert who has achieved level 2 by getting 100 points

    All-Star:

    An expert that got 10 achievements.

    MVP:

    An expert that got 5 achievements.

    Vice President:

    An expert whose answer got voted for 100 times.

  • Expert
  • 376 Answers

No standerd treaded stud.

Posted on Nov 20, 2009

1 Suggested Answer

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

Hi,
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
goodluck!

Posted on Jan 02, 2017

Add Your Answer

Uploading: 0%

my-video-file.mp4

Complete. Click "Add" to insert your video. Add

×

Loading...
Loading...

Related Questions:

2 Answers

Need help to change front wheel stud on 1999 honda civic EX


1. first take the wheel off so you can see the the caliper and the rotor. make sure the car is on stands and not just waving around on a jack.
2. look behind the caliper and use your finger to locate, a pair of bolts behind the caliper... they will be holding the caliper into place on the suface of the rotor, by a simple look and feel you can see these, they should take a 17mm socket undo them and remove the bolts. at this stage you should see the the caliper become loose.
3. remove the caliper by pulling it up and away from the rotor
4. now you can see the rotor remove this it will simply slide away.
5. this will leave the hub exposed and the studs.. you will see that they are wedged into the hub
6. remove the stud/s by hitting them / it with a hammer be carful to not damage the other studs if you just replacing one.
7. there is one spot where the will be a gap and you will be able to get the stud in behind the hub and have a little bit of room, rotate the hub to there, make sure the car is out of gear or this will be very difficult :)
8 once the stud is in take something you can use as a spacer like a larger then the stud nut. for example and then put one of the wheel nuts on and tighten slightly
9. use a hammer and drive the back of the stud home, and slowly tighten the wheel nut as you go.
10. once this is done your finished put all the bits back togeather in the oppersite order and replace the wheel.






source:http://wiki.answers.com/Q/How_do_you_replace_front_wheel_stud_from_a_1999_honda_civic

Jul 30, 2008 | Honda Civic Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Thermostat broken stud


You can replace it. There are several types of screw extractors out there. They usually come with a drill bit for the correct size extractor. You will need to find out what size stud it is. Once you have determined that chose the appropriate size drill bit and extractor. Lowes or home depot carry them. Drill into the center of the broken stud. Be careful not to drill too deep as you might damage the thermostat housing. Once you have drill into the stud use the extractor to remove the broken stud. Napa auto parts or autozone should carry the stud size and length that you need. Purchase a stud and 2 plain nuts that match the thread of the stud. The nuts will be used to install the stud. Thread The stud into the thermostat housing. Once it is tight by hand stop. Thread the first plain nut onto the stud far enough so that you can get the second nut onto the stud and have a thread or two sticking out of the second nut. Once the two nuts are on the stud hold the first nut with a wrench and tighten the second nut tight against it. This will allow you to finish installing the stud. Once the nuts are tightened together, use a wrench (on the second nut only) to run the stud down into the thermostat housing. Do not overtighten the stud as you may crack the housing. Run the stud down into the housing unit the stud is the same height as the existing stud. Then use a wrench to hold the second nut and loosen the fist nut away from the second nut. Remove both nuts from the stud. You stud is now installed and you can reinstall the thermostat. If you have any questions you can email me at dplumb1@me.com Good luck

Oct 25, 2012 | 1997 Nissan Maxima

1 Answer

STeering wheel is loose and noisy while steering. Sounds like something broke inside.


This might help to understand the steering linkage: REMOVAL & INSTALLATION Fig. 1: Steering linkage used on the Bronco and 4-wheel drive F-150 84928067.gif
Fig. 2: Steering linkage used on the 4-wheel drive F-350 84928070.gif
Fig. 3: Steering linkage used on F-Super Duty chassis/cab 84928071.gif
Pitman Arm EXCEPT F-SUPER DUTY STRIPPED CHASSIS AND MOTOR HOME CHASSIS
  1. Place the wheels in a straight-ahead position.
  2. Disconnect the drag link at the Pitman arm. You'll need a puller such as a tie rod end remover.
  3. Remove the Pitman arm-to-gear nut and washer.
  4. Matchmark the Pitman arm and gear housing for installation purposes.
  5. Using a 2-jawed puller, remove the Pitman arm from the gear.
  6. Installation is the reverse of removal. Align the matchmarks when installing the Pitman arm. Tighten the Pitman arm nut to 170-230 ft. lbs. (230-312 Nm); torque the drag link ball stud nut to 50-75 ft. lbs. (68-102 Nm), advancing the nut to align the cotter pin hole. Never back off the nut to align the hole.
F-SUPER DUTY STRIPPED CHASSIS MOTOR HOME CHASSIS
  1. Matchmark the Pitman arm and sector shaft.
  2. Disconnect the drag link from the Pitman arm.
  3. Remove the bolt and nut securing the Pitman arm to the sector shaft.
  4. Using a 2-jawed gear puller, remove the Pitman arm from the sector shaft. To install:
  5. Aligning the matchmarks, slide the Pitman arm onto the sector shaft. If the arm won't slide on easily, use a cold chisel to spread the separation. NEVER HAMMER THE ARM ONTO THE SHAFT! Hammering on the arm will damage the steering gear!
  6. Install the nut and bolt. Tighten the nut to 220-300 ft. lbs. (298-407 Nm).
  7. Connect the drag link.
Tie Rod and Drag Link EXCEPT RUBBERIZED BALL SOCKET LINKAGE
  1. Place the wheels in a straight-ahead position.
  2. Remove the cotter pins and rust from the drag link and tie rod ball studs.
  3. Remove the drag link ball studs from the right-hand spindle and Pitman arm.
  4. Remove the tie rod ball studs from the left-hand spindle and drag link.
  5. Installation is the reverse of removal. Seat the studs in the tapered hole before tightening the nuts. This will avoid wrap-up of the rubber grommets during tightening of the nuts. Tighten the nuts to 70 ft. lbs. (95 Nm). Always use new cotter pins.
  6. Have the front end alignment checked.
RUBBERIZED BALL SOCKET LINKAGE
  1. Raise and support the front end on jackstands.
  2. Place the wheels in the straight-ahead position.
  3. Remove the nuts connecting the drag link ball studs to the connecting rod and Pitman arm.
  4. Disconnect the drag link using a tie rod end remover.
  5. Loosen the bolts on the adjuster clamp. Count the number of turns it take to remove the drag link from the adjuster. To install:
  6. Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. Install the drag link with the same number of turns it took to remove it. Make certain that the wheels remain in the straight-ahead position during installation. Seat the studs in the tapered hole before tightening the nuts. This will avoid wrap-up of the rubber grommets during tightening of the nuts. Tighten the adjuster clamp nuts to 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm). Tighten the ball stud nuts to 75 ft. lbs. (102 Nm).
  7. Have the front end alignment checked.
Connecting Rod RUBBERIZED BALL SOCKET LINKAGE
  1. Raise and support the front end on jackstands.
  2. Place the wheels in the straight-ahead position.
  3. Disconnect the connecting rod from the drag link by removing the nut and separating the two with a tie rod end remover.
  4. Loosen the bolts on the adjusting sleeve clamps. Count the number of turns it takes to remove the connecting rod from the connecting rod from the adjuster sleeve and remove the rod.
  5. Installation is the reverse of removal. Install the connecting rod the exact number of turns noted during removal. Tighten the tie rod nuts to 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm); the ball stud nut to 75 ft. lbs. (102 Nm).
  6. Have the front end alignment checked.
Tie Rod Ends RUBBERIZED BALL SOCKET LINKAGE Fig. 4: Remove the cotter pin from the castellated nut at the ball stud 88288p02.jpg
Fig. 5: Remove the nut from the ball stud 88288p03.jpg
Fig. 6: Use a tie rod end puller tool to remove the ball stud from the Pitman arm 88288p04.jpg
Fig. 7: Liquid correction fluid makes excellent paint to mark the threads of the tie rod end 88288p05.jpg
Fig. 8: For a more accurate reinstallation, you may measure the tie rod end prior to removal 88288p06.jpg
Fig. 9: After having loosened the nut, unscrew and remove the tie rod end 88288p07.jpg
  1. Raise and support the front end on jackstands.
  2. Place the wheels in a straight-ahead position.
  3. Remove the ball stud from the Pitman arm using a tie rod end remover. NOTE: Optional: paint a mark or measure the length of the tie rod end threads to ease reinstallation in as close to the original position as possible.
  4. Loosen the nuts on the adjusting sleeve clamp. Remove the ball stud from the adjuster, or the adjuster from the tie rod. Count the number of turns it takes to remove the sleeve from the tie rod or ball stud from the sleeve. To install:
  5. Install the sleeve on the tie rod, or the ball in the sleeve the same number of turns noted during removal. Make sure that the adjuster clamps are in the correct position, illustrated, and torque the clamp bolts to 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm).
  6. Keep the wheels facing straight-ahead and install the ball studs. Tighten the nuts to 75 ft. lbs. (102 Nm). Use new cotter pins.
  7. Install the drag link and connecting rod.
  8. Have the front end alignment checked.
prev.gif next.gif

Sep 18, 2010 | 1996 Ford F150 Regular Cab

1 Answer

I need to replace my ball joints. can you give me some tips on how to do this? I have never done this before and i would appreciate some pointers on what i need to do to get the job done. Thank you very...


UPPER BALL JOINTS
  1. Raise and support the truck with jackstands. Remove wheel.
  2. Support the lower control arm with a floor jack.
  3. Remove the cotter pin from the upper ball stud and loosen, but do not remove the stud nut.
  4. Using a forcing-type ball joint separator tool, loosen the ball stud in the steering knuckle. When the stud is loose, remove the tool and the stud nut. It may be necessary to remove the brake caliper and wire it to the frame to gain clearance.
  5. On R-series trucks, drill out the rivets using a 1 / 8 in. drill bit. Remove the ball joint assembly.
  6. On C-series trucks, drill out the rivets using a 1 / 8 in. drill bit to start a pilot hole. Drill out the rivets with a 1 / 2 in. bit. Remove the ball joint assembly using a screw-type forcing tool.

To install:
Installation is the reverse of removal but please note the following important steps.
  1. On R-series vehicles, tighten the ball joint nuts to 18 ft. lbs. (24 Nm).
  2. On R-series vehicles, tighten the ball stud nut as follows:

    1 / 2 ton trucks: 50 ft. lbs. (68 Nm), plus the additional torque to align the cotter pin. Do not exceed 90 ft. lbs. (122 Nm) and never back the nut off to align the pin. 3 / 4 and 1 ton trucks: 90 ft. lbs. (122 Nm), plus additional torque necessary to align the cotter pin. Do not exceed 130 ft. lbs. (176 Nm) and never back off the nut to align the pin.
  3. On C-series vehicles, tighten the ball joint nuts as follows:

    1988-90 models, tighten the nuts to 17 ft. lbs. (23 Nm) for the 15 and 25 Series and 52 ft. lbs. (70 Nm) for 35 the Series. 1991-98 models, tighten the nuts to 18 ft. lbs. (24 Nm).
  4. On C-series vehicles, tighten the ball stud nut to 90 ft. lbs. (120 Nm) on 1988-90 models, 84 ft. lbs. (115 Nm) on 1991-95 models and 74 ft. lbs. (100 Nm) on 1996-98 models.
  5. Install a new lube fitting and lubricate the new joint.
LOWER BALL JOINTS
  1. Raise and support the front end on jackstands.
  2. Support the lower control arm with a floor jack.
  3. Remove the wheel.
  4. Remove the lower stud cotter pin and loosen, but do not remove, the stud nut.



0900c1528008f64b.jpg enlarge_icon.gifenlarge_tooltip.gif Fig. Fig. 2: Remove the lower ball joint using a suitable tool-R-Series shown, C-series similar


0900c1528008f64c.jpg enlarge_icon.gifenlarge_tooltip.gif Fig. Fig. 3: Use an appropriate tool to separate the lower ball joint from the steering knuckle-R and C-Series


0900c1528008f64d.jpg enlarge_icon.gifenlarge_tooltip.gif Fig. Fig. 4: Installing the lower ball joint-R and C-Series
  1. Loosen the ball joint with a forcing-type ball joint tool. It may be necessary to remove the brake caliper and wire it to the frame to gain enough clearance.
  2. When the stud is loose, remove the tool and ball stud nut.
  3. Install a spring compressor on the coil spring for safety.
  4. Pull the brake disc and knuckle assembly up and off the ball stud and support the upper arm with a block of wood.
  5. Remove the ball joint from the control arm with a ball joint fork or another suitable tool.

To install:
Installation is the reverse of removal but please note the following important steps.
  1. On R-series vehicles, start the new ball joint into the control arm. Position the bleed vent in the rubber boot facing inward.
  2. On C-series vehicles, force the ball joint into position using a screw-type forcing tool. The ball joint will bottom in the control arm. The grease seal should face inboard.
  3. On R-series vehicles, turn the screw until the ball joint is seated in the control arm.
  4. Lower the upper arm and match the steering knuckle to the lower ball stud.
  5. On C-series vehicles, start ball stud into the knuckle. Install the nut and tighten it to 90 ft. lbs. (122 Nm) on 1988-90 models; 84 ft. lbs. (115 Nm) on 1991-94 models and 94 ft. lbs. (128 Nm) on 1995-98 models. Advance the nut to align the cotter pin hole and insert the new cotter pin. NEVER back off the nut to align the cotter pin hole; always advance it!
  6. On R-series vehicles, tighten the ball stud nut to 80-100 ft. lbs. (108-135 Nm), plus the additional torque necessary to align the cotter pin hole. Do not exceed 130 ft. lbs. (176 Nm) or back the nut off to align the holes with the pin.
  7. Install a new lube fitting and lubricate the new joint.

Jan 15, 2010 | 1996 GMC Sierra

1 Answer

How do you get the stud out of the right front fork


Hi,
If the stud you need to remove isn't broken & you can access all the thread try this trick.
grab 2 spanners that suit the nut that fits on the stud.
Now grab a second nut that fits the stud.
Now place one of the spanners on the stud followed by the first nut.
Screw the first nut down the thread so you can put on the second nut.
Screw the second nut down untill its flush with the end of the stud.
Next tighten the first nut against the second making sure the front one is flush with the end of the stud.(this will leave you with a spanner on the inside followed by two nuts that are tightened against each other).
Next tap the front nut with a hammer.A good tap.
Next using the spanner that is captured behind the two nuts,try to loosen the nut (at the bottom of the stud).
9 times out of ten this works.
If it doesn't tap the end again(not too hard as you don't want to break/bend the stud) & try again to loosen.If its still stuck apply some heat to the housing around the stud & try to loosen again.
If this all fails(Which it rarely does) you'll have to by a stud extractor from your local tool shop.
If the stud is broken,with some potruding out try using vice grips as you'll need a new stud anyway.
If the stud is broken flush then that is tricky. You'll need to drill a hole in the stud & use an easyout or screw extractor. If your not carefull you can seriously damage it. If it is broken flush I suggest taking it to a shop for the repair(unless you've used easyouts or screw extractors before)
Thts should help you out
Regards Andrew Porrelli

Dec 06, 2009 | 2004 Honda CRF 230 F

1 Answer

How do i replace wheel stud on 88 corolla? front driver side


you will have to take the disc and caliper off too.
Then put the wheel nut back on, screw the nut until the top is level with the thread on the stud. A few good hits should do it, when you put the new one in put a few washers on the stud, then put the nut on and tighten up just so the stud is in right.
Here is a diagram will show you the stud.
i hope this helps!


6611148.gif

Jul 28, 2009 | 1988 Toyota Corolla 4 Door

1 Answer

Broken stud on left front wheel


Remove: wheel, brake caliper & rotor. Drive out the remaining stub with a hammer and punch. Insert a new stud and pull it into place by tightening the lug nut. Before running out of threads, remove the nut, insert a stack of washers or a large nut which slips over the threads without contacting them, tighten the lug nut to seat the stud.

Jul 12, 2009 | 2001 Pontiac Sunfire

3 Answers

89 4x4 pu broken wheel stud


Half right...pound out, use a stack of washers and put nut on backwards and draw stud in. Oil on washers and stud threads helps.

Jun 19, 2009 | 1989 Toyota Pickup SR5

2 Answers

Removal of broken wheel studs on 2004 saturn ion


line up the hole with the stud and beat it out with a 3or4 pound ball peen hammer.

Jun 16, 2009 | 2004 Saturn ION

Not finding what you are looking for?
2004 Honda CRF 230 F Logo

Related Topics:

120 people viewed this question

Ask a Question

Usually answered in minutes!

Top Honda Experts

Arnie Burke
Arnie Burke

Level 3 Expert

4514 Answers

yadayada
yadayada

Level 3 Expert

75077 Answers

Gino Cussen
Gino Cussen

Level 2 Expert

216 Answers

Are you a Honda Expert? Answer questions, earn points and help others

Answer questions

Manuals & User Guides

Loading...