Question about 2004 Honda CRF 450 R

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Hey guys, i have a rmz 250 2005, i have heard this specific model came out the Kawa factory, is this true?? and if so, are the valve clearance settings the same??as the rmz still battles to start, should i ask the mechanic to set up according to kawa spec if they are different, would this maybe solve the problem? help would be much appreciated.

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My 2004 rmz250 has a problem with the clutch release lever shaft, I seem to be able to wiggle it back and forth and it doesn,t return to it proper position. the clutch doesn,t seem to work well at all. Is this just a replacenemt clutch needed?

Posted on Sep 07, 2010

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Yes the 2005 SUZUKI (please don't call the Honda dealer) RM-Z250 was completely manufactured by Kawasaki. Some 2-stroke MX bikes have an electronic power valve in the carb. This is a 4-stroke with a mechanical accelerator pump in the carb. All of the other starting tips above apply except it doesn't have a battery. That's nice if you have don't know 4-stroke dirt bike starting procedures and you have no mechanical problems. But I'm sure you have tried all the suggested methods and you are frustrated by the continued hard starting like all 250 Kawazuki half breed owners. This is caused by worn valve train, zero valve clearance, and low compression. It's not a tuning or adjustment problem.Since you didn't mention your brand new head and valves they are obviously worn out like any used 2005 would be. The valve train in these are junk when they are new. I have seen new 2004 and 2005's with the valve seats so out of alignment with the valves that they require push starting in less than 5 hours...don't even bother with stock parts - upgrade to aftermarket valves and have a head built with copper beryllium valve seats. Otherwise prepare to repeat the aggravation. I build these engines for a living, I don't know anything about cars.

Posted on Feb 17, 2010

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Call a Honda dealer with the frame number on the bike. They should be able to tell you where the bike was manufactured. The valve settings should be the same no matter where the bike was made. There is a proper way to start the engine. Four controls are on your bike to assist in starting. Below are generic instructions.

  • The choke, used when the engine is cold. Pull the red knob for choke.
  • The " Hot Start " Lever, used when the engine is hot. Pull the lever to lean the fuel mix when the engine has been running.
  • The de-compression lever, always used.
  • The throttle, used to prime the cylinder, (power valve).
Don't kick, instead, push the kick lever downward. You will feel the back pressure as the piston is going upward on the compression stroke to the point the pressure is great enough that the kick lever "locks up". You are very close to TDC. NOW, pull in the de-compression lever. Push the kick lever a little bit more to get the piston past TDC. Now release the de-compression lever. Give the throttle a 1/4 turn then let it snap closed. A diaphragm, (Power valve), in the carb gives a shot of gas when this is done. DO NOT do this multiple times because you will flood the engine. Leave the throttle closed when kicking. A flooded engine will often backfire. Now give a strong kick through the full sweep of the kick start lever. Quickly get your foot off the kick lever at the end of the kick to avoid any chance of "kickback" from the kick lever. This happens in the case of a misfire, aka > backfire. It can be very painful, and can even break a leg. I am serious about that. Repeat the process (but without the throttle priming), for six kicks. After six kicks go ahead and twist the throttle again for a second priming. A good battery, a clean spark plug, a clean carb and clean air filter will also aid in starting. Note that not all carbs have a power valve. When a power valve is not present you should crack the throttle open only 1/8 inch from closed on each kick.

Posted on Nov 19, 2009

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