When you push the brake pedal down, the pedal goes down further than the next time and a little less the third time, it seems that you have to pump it 3 times to get really good pedal. New pads were installed and the brake line was bleeded to check for air.
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or Run the engine for one or two minutes, and then stop it. Depress the brake pedal several times at normal foot pressure. If the pedal goes down further at the first time, but gradually rises after the second or third time, the brake booster is functioning properly.
. check the brake booster internal membrane /boot is ok
Hi would seem like the internal seals in the master cylinder are letting fluid past, If after you have pumped it a couple of times if you just rest your foot on the peddle with slight pressure will it slowly go to the floor this is a sure sign, You need to replace or recondition the master cylinder
hissing sound is a vacuum leak somewhere on the power assist part of the system as in a bad booster..try this test..with the car off..push the brake pedal down a few times and release all the vacumm and see how far the pedal goes down..after a few pumps with your foot it should become hard and drop just a bit..once it feels"solid' or hard..hold the pedal down with moderate pressure.. and start the car back up..the pedal should drop a bit further but less than halfway.. if it drops further it needs attention..good luck especially if it goes almost to the floor..
If you have tried EVERYTHING, then you should have found the solution by now!.....Just messin' with ya :)
On a more serious note: What you need to do is a RADICAL brake bleeding procedure. You have air trapped in your brake system - most likely in the anti-lock hydraulic control unit if your vehicle is equipped with one. Here's what to do: Take the top off of your brake master cylinder and make sure is is full to the top with brake fluid. Then go to the RIGHT FRONT wheel and open the bleeder screw on the caliper. Slowly pump the brake about ten times WITHOUT closing the bleeder screw. I know, this goes against the general instructions for brake bleeding which tells you to push the pedal down then open the bleeder screw and hold the pedal to the floor until the bleeder is closed - you will just have to trust me on this one...
Anyway, once the pedal has been pumped about ten times, check the right brake caliper and see if there is a steady flow of fluid running from the bleeder. If not, pump it a few more times. If there IS a steady flow running out, close the bleeder, top off the fluid level in the master cylinder and move to the other side and repeat the process. Once you have the brakes bleeding on their own really good (gravity bleeding - steady flow) THEN close the bleeder screws and give the bleeders a round or two by the conventional method (have a helper to push down and hold the brake pedal while you open, then close the bleeder).
If the pedal is still feeling a little spongy, you may have to also bleed the rear brakes in the same manner, starting with the RIGHT REAR. (Always start with the brake that is the farthest from the master cylinder.)
This should take care of the problem. Let me know if you need further assistance.
Hopefully the hydrolic system was not opened when you were fitting, in which case all you need do is pump the brake pedal a few times to achieve correct pressure. If you did open the bleed nipples or worse, you'll have to bleed the system. This will require two people or even three. One person to keep the pot under the bonnet topped up, one inside pumping the brake pedal and the third under the vehicle....The meathod of bleeding is to pump the pedal at least four times and hold it down with the foot. The peson underneath opens the nipple and as the pressure releases pushdown with your foot untill you can't push further and hold it there, at which time you yell, close! The guy underneath closes the nipple and then you begin again. the guy under the bonnet should make sure that the resviour is topped up. Begin with the wheel furthest from the brake cylinder, in other words at the rear and finish with the closest. Cheers and Regards Johngee
You have air in your brake lines. Get that taken care of, you don't want to slam on your breaks in an emergency to have a pedal go to the floor.
I think Walmart sells a brake bleeding kit, though I've never used one. I can tell you a process I've used though...
You'll need two people, one in the car ready to pump brake and the other with wrench in hand ready to get a little brake fluid on them. :o)
On each wheel next to the brake line connection, is a fitting. It looks like a grease fitting, but it's your bleeder fitting.
Loosen the fitting then just snug it back... to get ready. Tell the person in the car to pump the brake pedal and hold it! Slowly loosen your fitting again. Either air, or fluid will come out of the bleeder. Bear in mind, as you do this, the pedal inside will go down. Inform the person to keep their foot pressed to the pedal at all times until you tighten up the fitting again... else, when they lift, the pedal will **** air back into the line. Do this several times untill you are sure all of the air is out of that line. There should be a steady flow of fluid only.
Make sure your fluid level is full in your master cylinder too! As you lose fluid, you want don't want to empty the supply... air again!
Do this same procedure on all four wheels. You'll have an air free brake system!
Now you're a pro! Next time I need my brakes bled, I'll call you... ha
Good luck, hope it helped.