Question about 2008 Yamaha YZF-R125

2 Answers

When you push the brake pedal down the pedal goes

When you push the brake pedal down, the pedal goes down further than the next time and a little less the third time, it seems that you have to pump it 3 times to get really good pedal. New pads were installed and the brake line was bleeded to check for air.

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  • Buck Oct 05, 2016

    If you google this you will find this is a common problem for Lincoln MKZ and Ford Fusion, once you change the brakes there is pedal issues. My mkz has a good pedal until you start the engine then it almost goes to the floor it started out having to pump a few times to where it is now. According to the ford dealership there is a valve sticking open in the power booster. It is inactive when the engine is not running that is why I get a good pedal when they are bled with the engine off. Then when you start it not so good . Mine have been bled about three time so I know it is not that.

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  • Yamaha Master
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SOUNDS LIKE U EITHER STILL HAVE AIR IN THE LINE OR THE MASTER IS DEFECTIVE, I WOPULD RE BLEED THE BRAKES.

Posted on Nov 16, 2009

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  • Master
  • 2,030 Answers

The master cylnder for the brakes is going bad and needs replaced.

Posted on Nov 16, 2009

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1 Answer

I have a 1990 corvette, when I step on the brakes my idle picks up to about 1500 t0 2500 and I also can hear air down by my foot.


how to test a brake booster

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ogXIHfrhXsQ

or
Run the engine for one or two minutes, and then stop it. Depress the brake pedal several times at normal foot pressure. If the pedal goes down further at the first time, but gradually rises after the second or third time, the brake booster is functioning properly.


.
check the brake booster internal membrane /boot is ok

is its non return valve ok

Jan 18, 2017 | Cars & Trucks

4 Answers

The brake pedal goes to the floor, its ok after its pumped a couple times. it was inspected a couple weeks ago, theres no leaks and the master is full of fluid. seems like air in the system


Hi would seem like the internal seals in the master cylinder are letting fluid past, If after you have pumped it a couple of times if you just rest your foot on the peddle with slight pressure will it slowly go to the floor this is a sure sign, You need to replace or recondition the master cylinder

Jun 02, 2014 | 2002 Kia Spectra

1 Answer

Toyota pickup clutch


Hi Tonio,could be your slave cylinder is bad,not holding pressure and leaking,if so then your clutch reservoir is low.Here's a link to it. Repair Guides Clutch Slave Cylinder AutoZone com

Mar 18, 2014 | 1993 Toyota Pickup

1 Answer

Hissing sound brake related


hissing sound is a vacuum leak somewhere on the power assist part of the system as in a bad booster..try this test..with the car off..push the brake pedal down a few times and release all the vacumm and see how far the pedal goes down..after a few pumps with your foot it should become hard and drop just a bit..once it feels"solid' or hard..hold the pedal down with moderate pressure.. and start the car back up..the pedal should drop a bit further but less than halfway.. if it drops further it needs attention..good luck especially if it goes almost to the floor..

Dec 09, 2013 | 2007 Toyota Prius Hybrid

3 Answers

Very little brake pedal, no brake fluid leaks


fil the reservoir and bleed the brake system

Nov 27, 2013 | 1986 Dodge Aries 4 Door

1 Answer

Is their a bleeder screw on the master cylinder on my 1999 grand am ?


If you have tried EVERYTHING, then you should have found the solution by now!.....Just messin' with ya :)

On a more serious note: What you need to do is a RADICAL brake bleeding procedure. You have air trapped in your brake system - most likely in the anti-lock hydraulic control unit if your vehicle is equipped with one.
Here's what to do: Take the top off of your brake master cylinder and make sure is is full to the top with brake fluid. Then go to the RIGHT FRONT wheel and open the bleeder screw on the caliper. Slowly pump the brake about ten times WITHOUT closing the bleeder screw. I know, this goes against the general instructions for brake bleeding which tells you to push the pedal down then open the bleeder screw and hold the pedal to the floor until the bleeder is closed - you will just have to trust me on this one...

Anyway, once the pedal has been pumped about ten times, check the right brake caliper and see if there is a steady flow of fluid running from the bleeder. If not, pump it a few more times. If there IS a steady flow running out, close the bleeder, top off the fluid level in the master cylinder and move to the other side and repeat the process. Once you have the brakes bleeding on their own really good (gravity bleeding - steady flow) THEN close the bleeder screws and give the bleeders a round or two by the conventional method (have a helper to push down and hold the brake pedal while you open, then close the bleeder).

If the pedal is still feeling a little spongy, you may have to also bleed the rear brakes in the same manner, starting with the RIGHT REAR. (Always start with the brake that is the farthest from the master cylinder.)

This should take care of the problem. Let me know if you need further assistance.

Nov 20, 2011 | 1999 Pontiac Grand Am GT

1 Answer

I have installed new front and back brakes,new calipers,brake lines,and now thanks to bad advice a new master cylinder and my pedal still goes to the floor.we have bled the lines many times and tried to...


Have the engine running & bleed the brakes again

Have someone in the vehicle slowly push the brake
pedal,never pump.

When you are driving, do you pump your brakes,NO

Pushing the brake pedal only moves the piston in the
brake cylinder about 1",that is all
That amount of movement will build up to 2,000 lbs
of pressure. So no pumping,does nothing

As the person is pushing the pedal down,someone
else opens & then closes the bleeder valves while the
pedal is still going down.

Then you wait on the person in the car to start over.
Real simple.

Assuming you paid for all that work,why do you have
issues that you didn't have before.

Don't want to discuss what the pros do,but we have
a thousand people on this site every day with problems
that they shouldn't have and are lighter in the wallet

May 23, 2011 | 1994 Mercury Villager

1 Answer

I have a 2008 Nissan Altima with push button start that will not start when the ignition button is pushed and the brake are being pushed on. The brake indictator light on the instrument panel goes on. I...


When you push the brake pedal do the rear brake lights come on?
Check that next time it does not start.
You may need a simple brake light switch adjustment.

May 03, 2017 | 2008 Nissan Altima

1 Answer

Soft brake pedel after fitting brake pads range rover 2006e


Hopefully the hydrolic system was not opened when you were fitting, in which case all you need do is pump the brake pedal a few times to achieve correct pressure. If you did open the bleed nipples or worse, you'll have to bleed the system. This will require two people or even three. One person to keep the pot under the bonnet topped up, one inside pumping the brake pedal and the third under the vehicle....The meathod of bleeding is to pump the pedal at least four times and hold it down with the foot. The peson underneath opens the nipple and as the pressure releases pushdown with your foot untill you can't push further and hold it there, at which time you yell, close! The guy underneath closes the nipple and then you begin again. the guy under the bonnet should make sure that the resviour is topped up. Begin with the wheel furthest from the brake cylinder, in other words at the rear and finish with the closest. Cheers and Regards Johngee

Oct 03, 2010 | Land Rover Range Rover Sport Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

My '78 mercedes had a leaky master cylinder, it leaked into the vac. boost. I replaced it, but now it has no pedal play and when pumped a couple times it seems to keep brakes on a little. Is there an...


Hi,
You have air in your brake lines. Get that taken care of, you don't want to slam on your breaks in an emergency to have a pedal go to the floor.
I think Walmart sells a brake bleeding kit, though I've never used one. I can tell you a process I've used though...
You'll need two people, one in the car ready to pump brake and the other with wrench in hand ready to get a little brake fluid on them. :o)
On each wheel next to the brake line connection, is a fitting. It looks like a grease fitting, but it's your bleeder fitting.
Loosen the fitting then just snug it back... to get ready. Tell the person in the car to pump the brake pedal and hold it! Slowly loosen your fitting again. Either air, or fluid will come out of the bleeder. Bear in mind, as you do this, the pedal inside will go down. Inform the person to keep their foot pressed to the pedal at all times until you tighten up the fitting again... else, when they lift, the pedal will **** air back into the line. Do this several times untill you are sure all of the air is out of that line. There should be a steady flow of fluid only.
Make sure your fluid level is full in your master cylinder too! As you lose fluid, you want don't want to empty the supply... air again!
Do this same procedure on all four wheels. You'll have an air free brake system!
Now you're a pro! Next time I need my brakes bled, I'll call you... ha
Good luck, hope it helped.

Aug 27, 2009 | 1990 Mercedes-Benz 300 Diesel

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