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Hi, Anonymous you may have hydraulic lock caused by excessive liquid in the cylinder or you have squeaked your top end this is commonly known as "HEAT SEIZE" the piston heats up expands and becomes extremely tight in the cylinder bore and usually occurs mainly on 2 cycle engines right after a fresh top end rebuild, but it can also happen to brand new motorcycles, these are rare instances due to better quality control and education. Overheating failures that cause pistons to seize are many and each one should be carefully diagnosed to prevent future repeat offenders and the usual suspects are:
1. Lack of lubrication due to low or no oil.
2. Among the causes of lack of cylinder, lubrication is clogging of lubricator by dirt or waste, obstruction in oil pipes/lines, leaky check valves, leaky pump packing, broken oil pipe/line, oil too cold to feed.
3. Wrong type of oil used in premix or oil tank.
4. Improper premix ratio you should start with 32:1 as a baseline.
5. New rebuild piston to cylinder tolerances set up too tight.
6. Failure to follow proper break in procedures with a 16:1 premix ratio.
7. Loose fasteners causing intake, base, or head gaskets to leak or blown crankshaft seal, failure caused by age, overheating or walking. 8. Holes in the intake manifold bent or warped intake flange or reed cage any stray air coming into a cylinder will cause a super lean condition.
9. Improper assembly of reed valve gaskets.
10. Insufficient warm up time for temperature conditions before wide open throttle.
11. Broken, pinched or cracked fuel line.
12. Carburetor fuel passages clogged or restricted from stale fuel varnish, ethanol sludge, dirt, rust, or fuel level in float bowl too low.
13. Main jet size too small or partially clogged
14. Air filter improperly installed, missing or not sealing.
15. Faulty or improperly adjusted oil pump and or cable.
16. Failure to bleed oil pump after a rebuild/replacement or running oil tank dry.
17. Engine coolant level too low, too old, or improper mixture ratio.
18. Radiator clogged, fins damaged, or faulty cap.
19. No liquid circulation due to failed oil or water pump.
20. Cavitation due to air in oil or coolant system.
21. Water and oil mix due to blown head gasket.
22. Timing retarded due to faulty CKP sensor or CDI.
23. Improper spark plug heat range (too hot) and or gap.
24. Excessive engine load, brakes dragging, clutch slipping, transmission lubricant level too low or viscosity to high.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day. 2 stroke locked up Motorcycle Bottom End Rebuild Part 1 of 3 Engine Teardown 1999 2010 KTM 125 200 SX EXC Service Repair Manual pdf pdf http://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-ktm KTM 125 SX Owner Manual
Buday, it sounds like the blower fan and motor needs cleaning and oiling. This should be done annually and you can do it yourself. This should quite things down a bit.
According to your Owners Manual, here's what you need to do.
Servicing and Oiling the Fan Motor: The fan motor should be cleaned and oiled once each heating season. To reach the motor, withdraw the metal shroud surrounding the fan blade by removing the screws on each side. Oil holes are located on the top at each end of the motor. Use a few drops of #10 motor oil. To clean the motor, blow air through its ventilation openings with a vacuum cleaner or low pressure air source (canned air with a straw nozzle like you clean your computer with works well).
Low compression, and lots of blow-by forcing oil into the air filter via the the crankcase breather. Sounds like you need a top end rebuild. If you can get your hands on a compression tester, then check it. If it comes in under 120, then certainly time for a tear down and top end rebuild.
If you put a quick squirt of oil down the spark plug hole and if the compression pressure goes up on a second compression test, then rings/piston/bore are worn. If it does not come back up, then it may be leaky valves, or a blown head gasket.
do the compression test first. That will tell you where to start. Or, if you have the tools, tear the top end down and inspect. A motor re conditioner/machine shop will help to measure up and tell you if piston, and bore are ok. May just need new rings to freshen up.
Happy to answer any questions that you may have.
if it is foamy, you may be getting water (or coolant) into the engine...diagnosis for that, Blown head gasket. Not much you can do about that. Take it or find a way to get to a mechanic or auto parts store and explain the problem. In my experience this is usually why oil becomes foamy. As for it getting into the air box, i'm not sure why ford put a blow off dump into that area but they did. I took the hose out of the airbox on mine and let it dump out to the ground.
isn't that a two-stroke? pull the jug off and check the piston/bore...if you can do that you're okay...Otherwise, call "Lazarus" at GT Thunder in Millersburg, FL and ask NICELY what to do. P.S. he's a BUSY man be NICE to him!
Firstly, some types of after market filters are designed to be run with oil impregnation.
It is a foam Uni Pod type filter designed to be run soaked in oil.
If it is a paper type Pod, then some of these type can be run with the correct filter oil. I use an aerosol spray oil here in Australia to keep our famous "Bull Dust" out. They are often run dry.
If it has the standard paper type OEM production filter and air box fitted, then it should not have any oil on it.
If it does then it will probably relate to oil getting into the air box from the crankcase breather. First thing to check is that the oil is not over the full mark. You will get excessive misting in the oil if the sump is too full. If the oil level is alright, it may have already blown off the excess. Clean out the air box and filter and take it for a ride and get it nice and hot. Then recheck for oil in the air box. If there is still oil appearing and the level is good, then you may have a crankcase pressure problem from blow by. This is generally indicative of failing compression rings or worn piston/sleeve/rings in combinations. Do a compression test of the engine. Low compression will tell you that soon you may have a top end rebuild on your hands. Happy to answer any other questions you may have,. Cheers