1980 Yamaha XS 400 Logo

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Posted on Nov 10, 2009
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Clutch engagement problem

When I engage the clutch on my xs 400 the engine RPMs rev up to 4000 without me even touching the throttle. It gets pretty loud and annoys others on the road.

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  • Master 2,702 Answers
  • Posted on Nov 10, 2009
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Joined: Oct 20, 2009
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My gess is you have the throtle cable to tight and the cluch cable is crossing over it,,,so every time you dip the cluch it opens the throtle as well by pressing on the throtle cable,,, its common for this to happen
check all your cables and if you need to to stop it happening again tape them together,,,,

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I have an old 2.5HP briggs with a hilliard extreme duty centrifugal clutch on my vintage rupp racing kart and it doesn't seem to gety up enough rpms to engage the clutch. So question is should I remove...

Did it ever work with that clutch? I'm assuming that the clutch has been changed and now it isn't working. That clutch should engage at 2300 rpms but your governor might not be allowing it to rev up to it's full speed. If you remove or change the governor, that's about the only way you'll get the rpms necessary for a solid clutch engagement. Changing the sprocket without maintaining a high enough engine speed for complete engagement of the clutch first will only create clutch slippage and eventually failure. So, to answer your question, get the engine speed higher and then work on the right sprocket ratio.
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I would guestimate that your throttle position sensor is going bad. Or vac line. Hard to say with out vehicle info
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The TPS can play funny tricks like this. Also sounds like a throtle linkage problem as well. Do u mean disengaged rather than engaged?

If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gary_9c859f4aa7e5ab10

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Problem with throttle

Sounds a lot like clutch slippage to me. First I would check clutch oil. If it is low or worn enough to have lost its viscosity that could be the cause. Here is the backyard **** mechanic way to check clutch wear and slippage. Crude but effective. Point the bike toward a sturdy flat stationary object (a brick wall?). Roll the front wheel firmly against the wall. Make sure the bike is perfectly perpendicular to the wall, the frot wheel is aligned straight, and that the rear wheel is on a solid surface (concrete or asphalt -- not grass or dirt). Climb aboard into riding position and start the bike. In first gear clutch in, rev the bike as you would for a moderate start away from a stop (maybe 3k-4k or so) and slowly release the clutch. If the clutch is good, as the clutch starts to grab the revs will go down noticeably, and as it gets fully engaged or close to it the bike will stall. If the clutch is slipping (depending on how bad it is) the motor will continue to spin at pretty much the same speed as the clutch is engaged. This is a kind of touch-feel thing but if the clutch is bad, you should know it. Needless to say do this carefully and at your own risk, but it works a wonder if you do it right. Another way to check is to ride the bike. Get into the power range barely (above 8K) and hold it steady. Does not really matter what gear, but I suggest 2nd or 3rd. Whack the throttle. If the RPMs rise quickly (quicker than the speed) you've got clutch slippage.,,,
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