When im riding and i shift into second and get it reving up high getting ready to shift to third i'll pull the clutch in but the engine does rev back down it keeps the high revs for like 4 seconds then it'll calm back down(the clutch is still pulled in) Any idea whats wrong?

Define idles high like its going high rpms before shifting or the engine itself is high reving if its high rpming when shifting its mostly you tranny going out you can try tranny fix oil I used it on my truck when it had shifting problems and ive had no problems since it takes a few days to work though and if its the motor itself it could be a lot of things but I dont know much of the problem based on what you told us

Replace the clutch plates or adjust the clutch cable. Try the clutch cable first. What you have is a slipping clutch. It could be that the clutch cable is too tight and so the plates aren't mating fully when you release the lever, or it could be that the plates are worn out. But as it is getting worse it is most likely to be the clutch plates are worn.

You have smoked your clutch. Replace the clutch plates and change the oil and filter and clean the filter screen. Also, learn to ride without smoking the clutch.

Instructions

1. Power Wheelies
   • 1 Stand above the motorcycle with it running in neutral at the starting line of the track or one end of a long practice area. Pull in the clutch and shift the motorcycle into first gear.
     
   • 2 Begin rolling forward by rolling on the throttle smoothly and slowly letting out the clutch. When you are at a speed that is comfortable enough to put both feet on the pegs, lean forward on the bike and roll the throttle back quickly. Make this motion as fluid as possible so as not to overdo the wheelie. The front of the motorcycle will rise off the ground.
     
   • 3 Rev the motorcycle all the way to the red-line in first gear to pull the front of the motorcycle up into the air. This will not be a high or long wheelie, but is a great starting point. When you hit the red-line, pull in the clutch and shift to second. The front end will fall back down. Do not, for any reason, activate the front brake, while the front wheel is in the air, as this will cause the bike to crash upon contacting the pavement.
     
   Clutching Up
   • 4 Begin riding at a moderate pace in second or third gear. Be sure that you have plenty of space in front of you before beginning the execution of a "Clutch Up"
     
   • 5 Pull in the clutch as if to shift to the next gear but do not press the shift lever. Instead, rev the motorcycle by rolling back on the throttle smoothly and quickly. Let go of the clutch quickly (but as smoothly as possible) and lean forward to offset the power of the motorcycle.
     
   • 6 Repeat this maneuver multiple times to get comfortable with the motions. The front of the motorcycle may hop only slightly until you figure out the right amount of throttle and clutch to give the engine. Remember to never hit the front brake with the wheel in the air.
     
   • 7 Perform a proper wheelie by pulling in the clutch, revving the engine, leaning forward slightly and then dropping the clutch. Be sure to cover the rear brake with your right foot as it will keep the motorcycle from flipping if you give it too much gas.
     
   • 8 Hold the throttle at a steady position to keep the front wheel in the air. Bring the front wheel back down by pulling in the clutch or pressing softly on the rear brake.
     

That is the normal shift pattern, then to third etc.

Your clutch has failed. Big job...transmission needs to be removed. The over-reving you felt was the friction material on the clutch disc not gripping the flywheel.

It needs rebuilding. The upper gear(s) are not locking in, so your likely wearing out your clutch when you drive fast. Get it rebuilt.

Without getting into transmission diagnostics that would require special tools, you can check the transmission fluid level. You could also drain and replace the trans fluid to see if this solves the problem. Changing the fluid is considered regular maintence, and will not hurt a thing. The trans will benifit from fresh fluids in the long run also.

Generally, what causes C-4's and C-6's to be slugish going into gear, is the seals on the servo pistons are getting hard. The servo pistons are what apply pressure on the clutch packs, when the seals get hard the oil can blow past the piston and the clutch won't engage. It's worse when the the trany is cold and usualy gets better as the oil gets warm. You could try some transmission conditioner, the cheep stuff works as good as the high dollar stuff. Don't rev the engine to try to get it to go into gear, the clutch is trying to engage and you will burn the clutch up pack. If the clutches were replaced 3k miles ago why didn't they put seals in it at the same time?

by the sounds of it the clutch is starting to slip, if more of a load causes it to rev up then that would be the issue.