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When adjusting the fork oil level, compress the outer tube fully
without the fork spring.
? 09943-74111: Front fork oil level gauge
? Fork oil level (Standard): 124 mm (4.88 in)
? 99000-99001-SS5:SUZUKI FORK OIL SS-05
? Standard fork oil capacity (each leg): 351 ml
or an equivalent fork oil
(11.86/12.36 US/lmp oz
I have a 2001 Suzuki vz800 marauder. I'm doing the front fork seals but I dont know exactly what weight I need to put in the fork. Some say 10w and some say 30w. Can you please help
Not brake fluid or Hydraulic oil ( oil weight is the issue) Drain forks ( bottom nipple) , remove top bold , be careful it is pressurized by spring . Use the right tool otherwise will damage bolt and your face.
Front forks should be sealed properly, fork seal should be intact, no water or brake fluid in them. Right amount of fork fluid is imperative along with oil weight specification ( check manual and appropriate oil weight for your bike), wrong oil and amount can otherwise damage your forks.
1985 YZ250N, With the Fork off, Cap off, Spring out, take a clear school plastic ruler pore in 5W synthetic fork oil till it's 135mm from the top with the fork tube all the way down, till it just touches the ruler and the 135mm mark. Reinstall the spring, pacer, washer, Damping rod to cap, and install back in the clamps. I raced this bike for 18months in 1985/1986. Change the seals when they leak and toss the 38Kg Fork springs for 41Kg + springs to your riding weight. Over all was a good fork for it's time and Race tech can rebuild the fork and shock to your riding style and you're riding weight. I Miss the Fork flex on hard landings to my other New bikes. I still ride and Race the 85,YZ490 with the same fork.
No special tools other than maybe an air-impact whench to remove the Allen bolts in the bottom of the fork sliders. These hold the botom of the metering rods into the forks and will spin if you don't have Honda's special tool which fits down the inside of the fork tube. Air wrench spins them off no problem.
V65 Sabre has fule filter behind battery and fule shutoff valve under seat.
Loosen upper triple-clamp pinch bolt before trying to remove fork cap.
Drain oil out of fork, then remove axle and access the metering rod holder bolt at the bottom inside the area whre the axles goes. Use an air wrench and appropriate Allen bit.
Remove fork cap, being careful of the spring pressure.
Remove fork from bike and take out spring and metering rod. Pry dust seal out of fork slider and use snap-ring pliers to remove retainer from beneath dust seal. Use fork tube to hammer seal and slider bushing out of fork slider.
Replace seal and use old seal to cushion it. Make a fork seal driver from split PVC pipe and hammer seal and slider bushing back in. Remove old seal and replace retainer clip. Install dust seal.
Reinstall on bike and install spring. With bike properly supported, stand on pegs and use ratchet, extension and socket to apply pressure to spring and thread cap carefully onto top of fork tube. Reinstall metering rod holder bolt in bottom of fork using thread-locker and air-wrench. Don't over-tighten; just ue high speed to conteract tendency of metering rod to spin inside slider.
Remove fork cap again and fill to appropriate level with 5 weight fork oil (Pro Honda SS-7 or equivalent). Use turkey-baster to remove excess oil to proper level (5 1/2 to 7 inches fully compressed depending on damping quality desired).
3 Pints is average but you can adjust it to your riding style and weight. Stock oil height is around 130mm from top but you could set it around the 110 to 100 range for increased bottoming if you do a lot of big jumps ect.. 5w oil is the usual weight but fork oil goes up to 20w.
-John
Angela, do you have a Clymer, Hayne, or service manual for the bike? If not you should get one, there is a lot of valuable information in there even if you don't do all the work yourself.
Replacing the fork seal requires putting the front end in the air, disconnecting everything from the front wheel (brake lines, speedometer cable if there is one), and dropping the wheel and fork tubes CAREFULLY to separate the two pieces of the fork tubes. Then grab the old seal and replace it with the new seal.
This short description is a VERY abbreviated and simplified version. It's not hard once you have done it a couple times but be very careful not to bend anything in your forks. They have springs inside them too. Change the oil while you are in there. Usually 10 or 15 weight fork oil but look in your manual. If you can't find a manual post again with your bike's year and we will see what we can come up with.
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