2008 honda accord replace rear brakes

If the emergency brake is built into the caliper this is something that will require special tools and knowledge to do it correctly. You wont save that much. Some shops will do a "pad slap" for cheap.

If it isn't and I am sorry as I don't remember, then no, you will not need any special tools besides some metric wrenches/sockets, a "c" clamp for compressing the calipers. once again, you would be better off finding a shop that will do a "pad slap" as the time you spend isn't worth the labor you'll save...

but you want a step by step, you tube has multiple videos pertaining to this subject and you can imagine how much typing would need to be done to explain what a 10 minute video will tell you

Remove the caliper mounting bolts and remove the caliper. Replace brake pads as necessary. Special tool is required to retract caliper piston to fit over new pads. (see picture below)
Retract piston in caliper using special tool to rotate clockwise and make sure the notch in the piston is aligned properly so the tab on the inner pad will fit in properly.
Reinstall caliper assembly and caliper mounting bolts.

Yes their is a special tool to wind the rear calipers in and push in at the same time ,if no tool then use a G clamp and apply a bit of pressure then turn piston with a pair of water pump pliers ,better if someone turns the G clamp whilst you turn the piston ,but its easier to buy a cheap tool from the auto factor

You have to compress the caliper. If your design uses the brake pads as parking break, you need to rotate the piston while compressing it. there are tools that assist with this, but I use a C clamp and the old brake pad.

you can use a needle nose pliers to ratchet the piston in turn to the right or you can buy the specialized tool which cost about ten dollars. there are two fittings on the piston that you use to turn it.

put the caliper back(loose)on the rotor and 1.use a crowbar or 2.loosen bleed nut very slightly and use crowbar.close bleed nut just before end of travel.so as not to allow air into system.do not forget to take off filler cap!! otherwise it aint goin nowhere.....

The rear calipers on these models require a special tool that compresses and turns the piston in at the same time -- most parts stores carry this tool.

It is called a caliper piston press -- and it installs where the pads would go and acts like a c-clamp,when turning handle it will turn the caliper piston backinto the caliper as it compresses it.
Anytime the brake rotor or brake pads are being replaced, the rear caliper piston must be seated (bottomed) to compensate for the new brake rotor or lining. Because the Parking Brake self-adjuster mechanism is attached to the piston, a special seating method is required. The only acceptable method is by rotating the piston back into the bore using Retractor,MILLER Special Tool 8807, . Any other seating method will damage the self-adjuster mechanism.
Good luck and hope this helps.

I had a car with rear disk brakes, and to get caliper piston back I had to use a C-clamp to compress it. Give it a try.

from my experience its sounds like ur front rotors may need resurfaceing...if ur doing that...may as well replace the brakes on the front as well...sometimes glazed front brake pads may make a sound but never heard of it as a grind, usually its a squeal...have ur dealer check ur rotors for hot spots in which u would need them replaced if they are overheated..also check the front pads for cracked brake pad material

rear brake cylinders are straight foward you shouldn't have any probs withe brakes side of things. the drive shaft bolts on and off with no problems forseen i have done many just take your time and think before you act good luck