My 2004 bmw 1150rs throttle is sticking, i have removed the black metal cover from the end of the grip and the throttle releases its self then, when i put the cover back on. it sticks again..any ideas???

For twist grip equipped motorcycles to remove the throttle or right side grip remove the upper and lower switch housing screws, loosen the upper screw securing the handlebar clamp to the master cylinder housing. Remove the lower clamp screw with flat washer, separate the upper and lower switch housings and remove the throttle grip from the end of the handlebar. (To remove the throttle grip, a slight tug may be necessary to release index pins in grip from receptacle in seal cap of twist
grip sensor.)

With throttle cables, to remove the throttle or right side grip slide the rubber boot off of each cable adjuster, loosen the jam nut on each adjuster, turn the adjusters in the direction that will shorten the cable housings to their minimum lengths. THEN remove the two screws and separate the upper housing from the lower housing, unhook the ferrules and cables from the throttle control grip and the lower housing, (remove friction spring, throttle friction screw and spring from the lower housing only if necessary), (only if and as necessary mark the position of the master cylinder assembly forward position and split line on the handle bars) (to be safe squeeze the front brake lever and place a 5-32 inch thick cardboard insert between brake lever and lever bracket and then release brake lever to hold the lever in this place to protect the brake switch from damage if the switch housing and the master cylinder get separated) (and only if and as necessary, loosen the two perch screws) move the lower switch housing as necessary and remove the grip.

To install the throttle grip apply a light coating of graphite to the handlebar and the inside surface of the upper and lower housings, (if removed, install the spring, throttle friction screw and friction spring in the lower housing) (and, if removed, attach the cable assemblies to the lower housing), (throttle control cable has a 5-16 inch fitting end and is positioned to the front of the lower housing. and the idle control cable has a 1-4 inch fitting end and is positioned to rear of lower housing. Install the throttle control grip over the end of the right handlebar, position the lower housing onto the right handlebar, engaging the lower housing with the throttle control grip, position the ferrules over the cable ball ends, seat the ferrules (with the cables attached) into their respective notches of the throttle control grip, install the upper housing over the right side handlebar and secure it to the lower housing with the appropriate two screws and hand tighten them, then align the brake master cylinder and perch assembly with the marks made prior to loosening them, and beginning with top screw, tighten the two screws to 108-132 inch lbs using a T27 TORX drive head and then tighten the upper and lower housing screws to 35-45 inch lbs. THEN point the front wheel straight ahead and WITH THE ENGINE OFF, adjust the throttle and idle cables by turning the adjuster in the direction that will lengthen the cables. Gently twist the throttle control grip to the fully open throttle position (fully counterclockwise) and hold it in this position and turn the throttle control cable adjuster counterclockwise until the throttle cam on the induction module (or carb) contacts the throttle cam stop, release the throttle control grip and turn the adjuster counterclockwise an additional 1-2 to 1 turn and tighten the jam nut on the throttle control cable adjuster. THEN turn the handlebars fully to the right and turn the adjuster on the idle control cable counterclockwise to lengthen the sleeve until the end of the cable housing just touches the spring within the cable guide. NOW check the adjustment by, with the throttle friction screw loosened, twisting and releasing the throttle control grip two or three times. The induction module throttle wheel must return to the idle position each time the throttle grip is released. If the throttle does not return to idle, turn the idle adjuster, shortening the cable sleeve until the correct adjustment is obtained, tighten the jam nut and slide the rubber boots over each cable adjuster. NEXT start the engine and with it idling turn the handlebars through their full range of travel and if the engine speed changes at all during this maneuver, adjust the control cables according to the foregoing procedure so that there is no change in the idle speed when the handlebars are rotated through their entire range of travel.


To remove the clutch or left side grip remove the two screws and separate the upper housing from the lower housing. Mark the forward position and clutch perch split line on the handlebars and then as necessary loosen the two clutch perch screws and move it out of the way so that you can access the grip end. If you want to save the grip take a small screwdriver with about an eight inch length and insert it into the grip, wiggling it to loosen the glue somewhat and then spray some brake kleen into the space under the grip where the screwdriver blade is inserted and wiggle and twist the screwdriver around to loosen the rest of the grip glue and pull the grip off. Sand down the handle bar area where the grip will rest and apply grip cement to the area and slip the grip on. If the left hand grip is patterned, align it with the pattern on the right hand grip with the throttle in the fully closed position, immediately push the grip completely onto the end of handlebar using a twisting motion. Do not hesitate when installing the grip or the adhesive may dry before installation is complete. Allow 6 to 8 hours to elapse at 70 degrees F to allow the adhesive to fully cure. If a newer non-glue grip is being installed slip it on with the flats properly oriented to fit with the switch housing halves when they are installed. Install the switch housing halves and lightly tighten the two screws and then orient the clutch perch to the previously made alignment marks and beginning with the top screw, tighten the screws to 108 - 132 inch lbs using a T27 drive head and then tighten the switch housing screws to 35-45 inch lbs.

Sounds like the throttle lock is possibly binding up. Remove the right grip. There should be a little half moon shaped piece of plastic in there at the bottom of the switch housing. This plastic piece will have a small hole in the outside edge. This hole has to be placed over the pointed end of the throttle stop. The throttle stop is the plastic star wheel on the outside of the bottom of the right switch housing. There is a small metal Jesus clip on the inside of the switch housing. This clip is supposed to hold the stop from being turned completely out of the switch housing. It's possible the clip came off and is wedged in there.

TWIST GRIP SENSOR 4.10

REMOVAL

Remove the left side saddlebag, remove the left side cover, remove the main fuse, (Do not remove the switch housing assembly without first placing the 5/32 inch (4.0 mm) cardboard insert between the brake lever and lever bracket. Removal without the insert may result in damage to the rubber boot and plunger of the front stoplight switch. Use the eyelet of an ordinary cable strap if the cardboard insert is not available.), place the cardboard insert between the brake lever and lever bracket, remove the upper and the lower switch housing screws, loosen the upper screw securing the handlebar clamp to the master cylinder housing, remove the lower clamp screw with its flat washer, separate the upper and lower switch housings and remove the throttle grip from the end of the handlebar (a light tug may be necessary to release the index pins in the grip from their receptacle in the twist grip sensor seal cap), if present, pull the two cable clips on the right side handlebar switch conduit from the holes in the handlebar. FOR FLHR/C: remove the headlamp and the handlebar clamp shroud, remove the twist grip sensor jumper harness connector [204], 6-place Molex (black), from its T-stud on the fork stem nut lock plate (right side) and disconnect it, FOR FLHX, FLHT/C/U remove the outer fairing, remove the twist grip sensor jumper harness connector [204], 6-place Molex (black), from its T-stud at the top of the right fairing support brace (inboard side) and disconnect it, FOR FLTR remove the outer fairing and bezel and disconnect the twist grip sensor jumper harness connector [204], 6-place Molex (black). (Note that the external latch on the pin housing of the twist grip sensor connector will break if the twist grip sensor is pulled too strongly and a damaged latch will prevent a positive pin and socket housing engagement and also since the connector is not serviceable, any damage requires replacement of the twist grip sensor jumper harness. THEN gently pull the twist grip sensor out of handlebar only as far as necessary to access the green twist grip sensor connector. FOR BEST RESULTS straighten out the conduit on the Molex connector end of the jumper harness and feed it through the slot at the front of the handlebar while pulling it and if the harness sticks inside handlebar while pulling on the twist grip sensor, pull the Molex connector end to retract the harness somewhat and then try again gently working the harness back and forth in this manner until the twist grip sensor connector is accessible. (Note again, that if the external latch on the pin housing of the twist grip sensor connector will break if pried and that a damaged latch will prevent positive pin and socket housings engagement and that since the connector is not serviceable, any damage will require twist grip sensor jumper harness replacement). THEN gently insert a small flat blade screwdriver between the pin and socket housings and when the bottom edge of the latch is engaged separate the housings. (Do not pivot or rotate the screwdriver after insertion or damage to the pin housing will occur), remove the twist grip sensor.

INSTALLATION

(Take note that each twist grip sensor contains the terminals for installation of a heated throttle grip available through P&A and that while the seal cap protects the terminals from dirt and moisture it also serves as a retention device for installation of the throttle grip.)

Verify that seal cap is installed at end of the twist grip sensor. If the seal cap is not present, proceed by seeing if the seal cap is engaged onto the index pins inside the throttle grip and if so use a stiff piece of mechanics wire to lasso seal cap and pull it free of the index pins. If it is missing or damaged get a new one. THEN check the condition of the O-ring on the seal cap and because the O-ring is not sold separately a new seal cap will be required if the O-ring needs to be replaced. Install the seal cap engaging the legs in the slots at the end of the twist grip sensor. For best results try installing one leg first and depressing the second leg slightly with a small flat blade screwdriver push down on the seal cap until it is fully installed. THEN connect the green twist grip sensor connector and gently pull the Molex connector end of the jumper harness to draw the twist grip sensor into the handlebar. THEN fit the index tabs on the twist grip sensor into the slots in the handlebar noting that one index tab and slot are smaller than the others to prevent improper assembly. THEN slide the throttle grip over the end of the handlebar rotate the grip to verify that the internal splines are engaged with the splines on the twist grip sensor. (Take note now that it is not necessary to hold the throttle grip onto the handlebar because the index pins in the grip engage the receptacle in the seal cap of the twist grip sensor preventing the grip from sliding off). THEN position the lower switch housing beneath the throttle grip so the ribs at the end of the throttle grip engage the slot in the lower switch housing. THEN position the upper switch housing over the handlebar and the lower switch housing, start the upper and lower switch housing screws but do not tighten them at this point, verify that the wire harness conduit runs in the depression at bottom of handlebar, put the brake lever/master cylinder assembly inboard of the switch housing assembly engaging the tab on the lower switch housing in the groove at the top of the brake lever bracket, align the holes in the handlebar clamp with those in the master cylinder housing and start the lower screw with its flat washer, position it for rider comfort but do not pull the switch housings so far inboard as to cause the throttle grip to bind or drag on the handlebar and rotate the throttle grip to verify that it freely returns to the idle position. THEN starting with the top screw tighten the handlebar clamp screws to 72-80 in-lbs (8-9 Nm) always tightening the lower switch housing screw first, so that any gap between the upper and lower housings is at the front of the switch assembly. THEN tighten the lower and upper switch housing screws to 35-45 in-lbs (4-5 Nm), remove the cardboard insert between the brake lever and lever bracket and FOR FLHR/C connect the twist grip sensor jumper harness connector and install it on its T-stud on fork stem nut lock plate (right side) and install the handlebar clamp shroud and headlamp. FOR FLHX, FLHT/C/U draw the twist grip sensor jumper harness connector and conduit forward to the front of the upper fork bracket, and then route it under the right radio support bracket to the area behind the fairing support brace, connect the connector and install it on its T-stud at top of fairing support brace (inboard side) and install the outer fairing. FOR FLTR connect the twist grip sensor jumper harness connector and install the outer fairing and bezel. THEN, if present, install the two cable clips on the right side handlebar switch conduit into the holes in the handlebar install the main fuse, install the left side cover and install the left side saddlebag. (NOTE that whenever a new twist grip sensor (or ECM) is installed, you must put the engine run/stop switch in the RUN position and turn the ignition/light keyswitch to IGNITION and then back to OFF four times (without starting engine), allowing at least three seconds to elapse between ignition cycles. This is done because the ECM uses the first four ignition cycles to establish the optimum idle speed and so there may be initial performance problems such as high idle or hesitation when the throttle is opened if the procedure is not followed.) THEN turn the ignition/light key switch to IGNITION and apply the brake lever to test the correct operation of the brake lamp.

TWIST GRIP SENSOR JUMPER HARNESS

Removal

Remove the twist grip sensor. Get a length of strong flexible mechanics wire of sufficient strength to pull the conduit and connector through the handlebar without breaking AND of sufficient length that the free end will not be lost in the handlebar when pulled. THEN securely attach the mechanics wire to the jumper harness inboard of the twist grip sensor connector pin housing and for best results, install the mechanics wire onto the conduit to keep it from bunching up inside of the handlebar when it is pulled. THEN gently pull the Molex connector end of the jumper harness to draw the conduit, the connector and the mechanics wire out through the slot at the front of the handlebar and if the harness sticks at all inside of the handlebar, pull back on the twist grip sensor connector end to retract the harness slightly and then try again to gently work the harness back and forth in this manner until it is free. THEN remove the mechanics wire from the jumper harness.

First remove the switch cover
just under the handle bars there are two rubber covered adjustment screws, roll back the rubber covers.
mark where they are set, then loosen off both adjusters until you can unhook the ends of the cables in the handle
remove the old grip and install the new one being careful to have the cable hook-ups in the proper position
install the cable ends and replace the cover
tighten the adjusters to original settings, check to see if there is play in the throttle and if it is returning to the start position when released
make necessary fine tuning to adjusters then tighten lock nuts and replace the rubber covers

hope that helps

they can stick in a number of places.
You may need to dissassemble the hand throttle assembly
Make sure the plastic twist grip turns freely on the handle bar.
Check the new grip doesnt push against the throttle switch assembly.
Check the cables move freely
Check the cables dont have any frayed ends
check the cables arnt missing any of the plastic outer cover
check the cables a routed correctly and dont get jammed or pulled turning lock to lock

Usually when you change the grips on the throttle side, depending on what type of replacement grips you bought, you'll be replacing the throttle sleeve as well. This means that you will be messing with the throttle and idle cables.

Loosen both cables at the adjusters as loose as they will go. Then, remove the two bolts that hold the right hand switch housing together. Carefully seperate the two halves. Do not damage the wires going to the switch. Work the throttle cable and the idle cable out of there slots in the throttle sleeve of the old grip. Be careful not to loose the brass ferrel that goes over the cable end. Lubricate the inside of the new throttle sleeve, the handlebar, and the area where the cables hook up with white lithium grease. Reassemble cables into new sleeve and reassemble the switch housing.

Once you have everything back together, adjust the throttle cable first and leave just a bit of slack in the cable. You should be able to freely "rock the throttle grip" before you feel the cable tighten up, Just a bit. Then adjust the idle cable about the same way.

Now, Turn the throttle cable to Wide Open throttle position and release it. It should "snap" shut, do this again from half and quarter throttle to make sure it works as it should. Failure to insure that the throttle operates properly can cause serious injury or death.

If you are simply replacing a grip on each side of the handlebar, use a long slender blade screwdriver or an ice pick to slide between the handlebar and the grip. Spray some WD40 in the work the grip a bit and it will break loose. Clean the throttle sleeve and handlebar off alcohol. Now, some people like to use "Grip Glue" on the new grips. Put the glue inside the grip and slide it up on the handlebar. If you put the glue on the handlebar, it will roll up in front of the grip as you slide it on to the handlebar or throttle sleeve. Make sure you "align" the two grips so they look the same before the glue sets.

Good Luck
Steve

To change the throttle/idle cables, first you need to remove the fuel tanks so you can get to the carb/throttle body. Loosen the adjusters at the throttle grip on the handlebars. Remove the idle cable first and the remove the throttle cable from the carb/throttle body. Then take the two bolts out of the throttle grip housing halves and carefully seperate them. Remove the old cables from the twist grip. Reinstall new cables in the reverse procedure. Before starting the bike, make absolutely sure that the throttle cables work like they're supposed to and the carb/throttle body will close completely.

To remove the clutch cable, remove exhaust system or whatever might be in the way on the right side of the bike. You need to remove the right side transmission cover. Drain the transmission oil. Remove the chrome right side transmission cover. Disconnect the clutch cable from the clutch release mechanism. Screw the end of the clutch cable out of the cover and take the cable loose from the clutch lever on the handlebars. Reinstall in reverse order making sure you install a new O-ring on the cable at the transmission cover. Replace cover and refill transmission with oil. Reinstall anything else you had to take off.

if the plastic latch in the car is actually broken, but you can get to the nubby end of the cable that was in the handle, then you can usually get a pair of vise-grips on that nub and give it a good pull. however, if the latch seems to be moving the cable okay, but the cable offers no resistance and doesn't open the hood, then you'll have to manually open it from the actual mechanism which means removing at least the grill and sticking your hand up in there and again grabbing whatever part of the cable you can w/ vise-grips

I finally managed to get a throttle cable and an idle cable. How do you get the cables out of the throttle housing? I have removed the ends from the grip. Now I am faced with getting the throttle cable and idle cables through the cast metal hole in the bottom of the the throttle housing and then the new ones back up through. There is a shiny barrel clip-looking ferrul attached to the metal ball on the end of the cable that prevents it from fitting through that hole. As my shiny new $100 worth of throttle/idle cables did not come with ferruls to replace the existing ones I am assuming that there is some way to take those ferrules off the old cables and put the on the new ones. So I need to know how to take off/re-use those clips and/or am I SOL on being able to get this thing going without yet another delivery from Ridley? The cable end is removable. You don't need to buy new ones. Try a small pick to remove the cable from the housing.,,