How do you remove the rear rotors from a 2007 Dodge Minivan?

Being a 3500, I'm guessing it's a dually? The axle MUST be removed to take the rotor off. Remove the 8 bolts on the axle flange, then carefully remove the axle. Behind where it was, you'll find a snap ring. Remove that and pull the key block out. Using a brass punch to knock it loose, unscrew and remove the spanner nut, then the outer wheel bearing. After you do all that, you can remove the rotor.

Put a couple of long hose clamps together & put
around exhaust converter heat shield

Other underbody heat shields that rust away,
you remove the bolts & add a large washer

You'll have to remove the inner door panel to access nuts on inside, plus cables etc. Easier to mask around it.

You need to compress the caliper piston back into the caliper assembly to allow the new pads to fit over the rotor. A C clamp can be used to compress the caliper piston. Be sure to remove the brake reservoir cap before compressing the piston and remove excess fluid from the reservoir to prevent over filling.

Front brakes are pretty easy, just go to http://www.customtacos.com/tech/index.php?article=37 for step-by-step instructions with pictures. On the bolts that it tells you to remove, it says they are 17mm, on the caravan they will take a 12mm socket to remove (at least on my 2007 short wheel base SE). The only issue I have with this site is it does not tell you how to remove rotors, and I NEVER replace brake pads without having my rotors turned or replaced. after you have swung the caliper up like the instructions on the website tell you to, you'll notice the rotors are still held in place by the caliper mounting bracket. It is held on with two large bolts that bolt in from the back. If I remember right, they are a 3/4" or 19mm socket. If they've been on for a while (my first brake change was at 48,000 miles) then you will need WD40, a big socket wrench, and a lot of elbow grease to get those loose. Once that's free, you can easily remove the rotors. I would take them to Checker or another local auto parts store that turns rotors, they will let you know if they can be turned or if they need to be replaced. If you get new rotors, don't forget to clean them off with brake cleaner before installing them!!! They are coated with an anti-rust chemical that is very sticky and will smoke for miles and affect your braking. For rear brakes (assuming they are drums, if not, they will be the same as the front), there is a pretty good tutorial at http://trashcars.net/videos/1436/how-to-replace-rear-drum-brakes.html. You should also have your drums turned or replaced when you replace the rear brake shoes as well.

CHRYSLER WARNED AGAINST NOT USING A SLIDE HAMMER PULLER UNLESS YOU ARE GOING TO REPLACE REAR HUB AND BEARING ASSEMBLY.WHEN REPLACING HUB AND BEARING ASSEMBLY THEY HAS TO BE PRESSED OUT.

What I use is a big old "C" clamp available at any hardware store. Do a little thinking about the piston as you tighten it, do not want to put any lateral force on it just push it in. May want to take the top off the master cylinder too when you push the fluid backwards.

the best thing is to remove the arm soak the pivot end in a can of clr or corriosion lime and rust remover for long.this will remove the corrosion work it back and forth every couple houres and resoak you will see the foam from the corrosion coming up rinse with hot water and blowdry lube oivots with oil

Check the 15 Amp fuse. Spot F2 or F3 in the fuse box

first raise and safely support vehicle remove the wheels remove the spring from the caliper(pry under the spring where it goes into the caliper be careful don't let it fly) locate the two torx bolts holding the caliper to the bracket remove them using the proper size bit remove the caliper by prying it away from the bracket remove the pads by pulling strait out remove the two bolts holding the bracket to the steering knukle(very tight) remove the rotor install is the reverse of removal torque specs are as follows wheels 80-100ftlbs caliper bolts 40ftlbs bracket bolts 90 ftlbs