Question about 2006 Qlink Legacy 250

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How to change oil amounts what kind of oil and coolent and spark plug

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  • Contributor
  • 35 Answers

If you still have an engine remaining after all that about using fully synthetic. Put in semi-synthetic like I said in the other post, it's a false economy to use pro this and pro that! When this oil is for race bikes only! Your engine does not get anywhere near a high temperature to break the molecules down to offer the protection needed at a lower temperature. Carry on using the pro stuff and you will pit the camshaft at least.
Not all engines are the same. Some clutches in manual transmissions becomes frictionless with the use of pro fluids and ruin the gearbox.
In a CVT there is no gearbox to be cooled with the engine oil because the gearbox is within its own compartment inside the rear hub. A CVT only needs oil to cool and flush the crankshaft journals, camshaft and connecting rod. The coolant cools or protects the engine and cylinder head from extreme temperatures outside its operating range.
Gearbox oil is SAE 80/90. Engine oil should be 10W40.
Much is written in the motorcycle magazines just to sell them. Some of it is total rubbish and becomes Chinese Whispers over time. Get yourself to college to learn about mechanics or leave it to the pro's like myself.

Posted on Dec 12, 2009

  • Joe G
    Joe G Mar 23, 2017

    so semi-synthetic is what u use in a qlink legacy 250 lol chold not figure out what type

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  • Master
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You might aswell do the airfilter and say its a full service and oil filter buddy i will answer this whe i get home from work tonight as im in a rush i know what to do

Posted on Oct 08, 2009

  • ollie reece-jones
    ollie reece-jones Oct 09, 2009

    hi buddy sorry i forgot to respond use SILKOLENE 4 PRO 10W-40 and for coolant use silkolene pro cool and for plugs simply take the old ones out and look at the number on them and give the numbers to me and i can find a set for you to order and to check the amount out in you look at the sight glass (3 pic below) or by oil dipstick in filler plug(1 pic below) fill it 3/4 full on sight glass also by the filler it will say a letter like 700cc this will equal too 700ml and now to change the oil


    1. Run the bike till it gets to running temperatures to allow oil to become thin for easy drainage then Set up your spot. This is one of the most important steps. You
      don't want to be running around looking for tools, containers and rags
      while oil is flowing out of your bike and your hands are too slick to
      turn a doorknob! Check the "Things You'll Need" section to get
      everything ready.

    2. Put your bike on the side stand, center-stand or rear-stand if you
      have one. Put your drain pan approximately under the bolt. Try to think
      ahead of where the oil's going to shoot out, and watch it as it drains.
      You'll most likely have to adjust the placement of the drain pan as the
      old oil slows down. Use the proper tool to remove the bolt. You don't
      want to strip it! If it drops in the pan, just pick it up quickly and
      don't burn yourself if it's hot!

    3. Allow the used/dirty oil to finish draining while you take off the
      filter. Carefully unscrew the filter with a filter wrench or, in a
      pinch, wrap a leather (or rubber) belt around it like a dog choker to
      get it off. Be careful not to dent or damage the filter, as that could
      inadvertently allow some of the contaminants in the filter to go back
      into the engine. There may be some oil left in there that may splash
      out, so make sure you've got something under there to catch it. If it
      is on there really tight, you can punch a screwdriver through its side
      with a hammer and use that to get it loose.

    4. Install a fresh drain plug crush washer. It may cost as much as a
      dollar, but is cheap insurance. Be sure to remove the old crush washer.
      The New Washer will help save the threads in your oil pan as it will
      take less torque to wrench down on the oil drain plug.

    5. Put the drain bolt back in. Make sure it's clean of dirt and grime
      before putting it back. Remember that it's usually going into cast
      aluminum, so don't over-tighten it! Consult your manual or your local
      shop for torque specs for your bike. Remember when using a torque
      wrench that Nm is not equal to Ft-Lbs. If you don't torque in the bolt
      to spec, just install it snug but do not over-tighten it!

    6. Prep the filter by filling it about a quarter full of fresh oil.
      "Swish" it around slowly to try and get all the filter material down in
      there wet with oil. Then, and this is very important, prep the rubber
      seal with a dab of oil on your finger. Just get the whole seal "wet".
      This will ensure that it makes good contact with the engine, and make
      it much easier to get it off during the next oil change.

    7. Clear the filter area on the engine of grime and wipe a finger of
      fresh oil around the area just to get good clean contact. Carefully
      screw on the new filter. Don't force it! It should go quite easily.
      Once it takes more than about zero effort to turn it, it only needs
      about 3/4 of a turn left. You really don't want to over-tighten an oil
      filter. And you shouldn't need more than a clean hand to tighten it.
      Don't use a tool, unless it is attached to a torque wrench and you are
      tightening it to factory specs!

    8. If you haven't already, move the dirty oil away from the area so
      you don't spill it! Look in your manual for oil capacity and use the
      funnel to add about half a quart under full capacity into the fill
      hole. Stop and check the level. Add or drain oil as necessary to be at
      about the bottom third between Add and Full. You don't want to overfill
      the oil! It adds undue pressure on the seals in your engine and can
      lessen its life. Remember that on motorcycles you have to have it
      straight up and down, not on the side stand, to check the level.

    9. Clean it up, double check you've returned all the caps and bolts,
      and you're good to go! Most auto places that sell you the oil will take
      it back if you pour it back into the orginal containers. It's a messy
      job, but don't pour it on the ground. It doesn't go away, it's really
      bad for the environment, and quite likely it is illegal.

    10. Lastly, make double sure to check the level again as well as the
      filter, drain bolt, and fill cap tightness after your first ride!

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