Question about 1989 Yamaha XTZ 750 Super T?n?r?

1 Answer

No more spark from the coil, the coil has

I get no more spark from the coil, the coil has been tested directly at the battery then i'll get a spark but not when i'll plugged it into the system. standard and coupling wires both passed through but no success. pick up coil replaced still no success cdi unit exchanged no success. who can helps

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  • 3 more comments 
  • xtzst750 Oct 06, 2009

    sorry my english is not verry well specily the technical part what is a stator plate ? does that mean the unit who produce electricty? its round and comes whit 3 wires wich connected to the regulator ? or does it mean something else , i am going to try to find the meaning of stator in a english manual i'll get back when i found it

  • xtzst750 Oct 06, 2009

    i'll found the stator plate on the fisches and check it out , i'll get back when i'have check it

  • xtzst750 Oct 06, 2009

    i have a stator wich give 3 white wires to the regulator , i don't know excactly how to messure so i put the volt meter on V~ 200 and statrted the engine while trying i messure (V~ 200 = 5.0 ) on all three wires i also messure the ohm 200 and that give 12 ohm constant on three wihite wires.

    can you advise after this info ?

  • xtzst750 Oct 06, 2009

    switch as key switch or dead man switch , ?
    Key switch is working good i have mesure 2 wires brown an red , contact off after the key switch no power key switch on after contact 12 volt , there are also 2 bleu wires but don't know what function the have.
    Dead man switch is also working as it should be checked with contact switch on and trying to start and used the volt meter switch is ok.

  • xtzst750 Oct 07, 2009

    yes i have , power incomming en out going.

    when i turn on the key the dash shows green light neutral switch, (ok) when i messure the black/white kabel from the cdi unit it have power 12 volt.

    the same kabel passes the clutch safety standard safety etc.

    when i used the standard so the bike can stan on his own i messure 12 v ? but when i use this config i can not start the bike no power on the starter engine when he is in neutral clutch handel used or not used messure 1 volt ? but when i put the bike in 1 gear then i have 12 volt but cannot start the bike in 1 gear even not when i pull in the clutch handel (no power on the engine starter)

    i geus there must be something wrong in that area

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  • Master
  • 1,167 Answers

Is there power coming from the stator plate with a volt metre and get back to me after buddy

Posted on Oct 05, 2009

  • 1 more comment 
  • ollie reece-jones
    ollie reece-jones Oct 06, 2009

    aslong as you have power there its ok right now the on off switch check this to see if its working propally

  • ollie reece-jones
    ollie reece-jones Oct 06, 2009

    do you have power from the cdi unit

  • ollie reece-jones
    ollie reece-jones Oct 07, 2009

    hi buddy pull the wires out the neutral switch and bypass it also disconnect the side stand switch and try it

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Hi, Anthony and the usual suspects are:
1. Fouled spark plugs.
2. Severely discharged or a damaged battery, should have 12.5 volts or better and be able to pass a load test if necessary.
3. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
4. Loose connection at ignition coil or plug between ignition sensor and CDI box.
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Hi, Joey and the usual suspects are:
1. Fouled spark plugs.
2. Severely discharged or a damaged battery, should have 12.5 volts or better and be able to pass a load test if necessary.
3. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
4. Loose connection at ignition coil or plug between ignition sensor and CDI box.
5. Spark plug cables in bad condition, shorting / leaking, spark plug cable connections loose, check for spark leakage in the dark.
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7. Faulty safety switches clutch, kickstand, neutral, off/on etc.
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Hi, Leisha and the usual suspects are:
1. Fouled spark plugs.
2. Discharged battery, check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
3. Loose connection at ignition coil or plug between ignition sensor and module.
4. Spark plug cables in bad condition, shorting / leaking, spark plug cable connections loose.
5. Faulty ignition coil or ignition / electronic module
6. Failed CKP, CMP, or BAS sensor.
7. Faulty ignition switch.
8. Security alarm failing to disarm needs reset
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How do you test an ignition coil


Remove the lead the spark plug, and then remove the spark plug, connect the spark plug back to the lead. Remove the positive and negative wires from the coil. Replace them with a negative and positive direct to the battery, but don't connect the positive to the coil. Hold the spark plug to a grounded part of the car, touch the positive lead to the coil, when you RELEASE the wire from the coil, you get a spark.

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How do you check the coil firing on a 97 timberwolf 2x


Hi, Anonymous and the usual suspects are:
1. Fouled spark plugs.
2. Severely discharged or a damaged battery, should have 12.5 volts or better and be able to pass a load test if necessary.
3. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
4. Loose connection at ignition coil or plug between ignition sensor and CDI box.
5. Spark plug cables in bad condition, shorting / leaking, spark plug cable connections loose, check for spark leakage in the dark.
6. Faulty ignition coil, pick up coil, trigger coil or CDI box testing needs to be checked with an ohmmeter at 70 degrees Fahrenheit
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BIKE RAN GOOD BUT HAD BACK FIRE ONCE IN A WHILE REPLACED COIL RAN GOOD FOR 100 MILES SHUT IT OFF NOW HAVE NO SPARK TO PLUGS


Could be an ignition module. Check the coil first.

Check your pick-up sensor located inside the timing cover, behind the adjustor plate. If the filament is not intact you will have no spark.
A defective coil, cam position sensor, or stator will also cause a no spark condition.

First check for diagnostic trouble codes (DTCs). THEN check the condition of the battery and do a voltage test
and recharge the battery if it is below 12.60V. THEN check the condition and tightness of the battery connections
and perform either a conductance test or a load test and replace the battery if and as necessary. THEN remove the spark plug cable from one of the spark plugs and remove the plug and visually check the condition of the plug. THEN attach the HT cable to a SPARK TESTER and clip the tester to the cylinder head bolt and crank the engine over looking for spark and repeat the procedure on the other cylinder also. Be aware that the Engine will not spark with both spark plugs removed, so when checking for spark, use a SPARK TESTER with both plugs installed.

Ignition Coil Primary Circuit Test
Remove the coil. THEN set your ohmmeter scale to RX1 and place ohmmeter leads on the primary coil windings A (front of coil) to B (middle of coil), B to C (front of coil) and check for primary coil winding resistance which normal resistance range is 0.5-0.7 ohms. If primary resistance is not within this range check out test results below.

Ignition Coil Secondary Circuit Test
With the ignition coil removed from the motorcycle and the ohmmeter set to the RX1K scale place the ohmmeter leads on the secondary coil windings B (middle terminal) to
R (rear secondary terminal/socket), B to F (front secondary terminal/socket) and check for secondary coil winding resistance which normal resistance range will be 5.5-7.5K ohms. If secondary resistance is not within this range check out test results below.

Test Results
A low resistance value indicates a short in the coil winding which requires coil replacement.

A high resistance value might indicate that there is some corrosion/oxidation of the coil terminals requiring the coil terminals to be cleaned and the resistance test then repeated and if after the test is repeated the resistance is still high after the terminals were cleaned the coil must be replaced.
If there is an infinite ohms or no continuity) resistance value the coil is open and must be replaced.

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1987 yamaha tw200- no spark at spark plug. ignition coil changed. pickup coil wires show grounded at both, even with engine shutoff switch disconnected. there is no kick stand switch.


Hi, Edward and the usual suspects are:
1. Fouled spark plugs.
2. Severely discharged or a damaged battery, should have 12.5 volts or better and be able to pass a load test if necessary.
3. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
4. Loose connection at ignition coil or plug between ignition sensor and CDI box.
5. Spark plug cables in bad condition, shorting / leaking, spark plug cable connections loose, check for spark leakage in the dark.
6. Faulty ignition coil, pick up coil, trigger coil or CDI box testing needs to be checked with an ohmmeter at 70 degrees Fahrenheit
7. Faulty safety switches clutch, kickstand, neutral, off/on etc.
8. Faulty ignition switch.
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SKIPPING PROBLEM . SPARK PLUGS & WIRES HAS BEEN DONE. THERE'S NO 12 VOLTS AT THE COIL CONNECTOR PLUG WITH THE KEY ON. LYMAN


Sound like a ground problem; the fastest way to identify the Power and Ground Circuits is using a wiring diagram. If you don't have one you'll have to find out by trial and error as you probe each circuit.

The power circuit is tested with the Key On and Engine Off. Place one end of your multimeter or Test Light on the Battery Negative Terminal and with the other end, probe the Power Circuit. Turn the Key to the Run position. If the Power Circuit is OK, the Multimeter will show 12 Volts or the Test Light will light up. Here are the possible results:
* You got 12 Volts on the Power Circuit
Good, this is a good sign. The next step is to check the Ground Circuit of the Coil on Plug connector that you're testing.

* No Power in only one Ignition Coil
Without 12 Volts, the Coil-on-Plug Ignition Coil will not work, thus you have just eliminated that specific Ignition Coil as the source of the fault. Replacing the Ignition Coil with a new one will only be a waste of time and money since, without Power the new one will not Spark.
Since the Power Circuit is shared by all of the coils on the majority of Coil-on-Plug Ignition Systems. The most likely cause will be an open short in that Ignition Coil's Power Circuit.
You'll have to consult your Repair Manual's wiring diagrams to make sure how everything is wired up.
After repairing the short, re-do the Spark Test to verify the Ignition Coil is now working.

* No Power at any Ignition Coils
The fuse or relay that supplies this voltage is blown or BAD.
You'll have to consult your Repair Manual's wiring diagrams to see where this fuse and/or relay is located and replace as necessary.
After replacing the blown fuse or the defective relay. Retest the Ignition Coil.

Them, the Ground Circuit is tested with the Key On or Off. It doesn't matter because this is a Chassis Ground. Place one end of your multimeter or Test Light on the Battery Positive Terminal and with the other end, probe the Ground Circuit. If the Ground Circuit is OK, the Multimeter will show 12 Volts or the Test Light will light up.

* You got Ground
Good, now the next step is to verify that the Coil-on-Plug Ignition Coil is receiving the Triggering Signal. This info belongs to the next section of this article.

* No Ground in only one Ignition Coil
Without this Ground, the Coil-on-Plug Ignition Coil will not work, thus you have just eliminated that specific Ignition Coil as the source of the fault. Replacing the Ignition Coil with a new one will only be a waste of time and money since, without Ground the new one will not Spark.
Since the Ground Circuit is shared by all of the coils on the majority of Coil-on-Plug Ignition Systems. The most likely cause will be an open short in that Ignition Coil's Ground Circuit.
You'll have to consult your Repair Manual's wiring diagrams to make sure how everything is wired up.
After repairing the short, re-do the Spark Test to verify the Ignition Coil is now working.

* No Ground at any Ignition Coils
This usually happens thru' human error in most cases and is a very rare thing. Usually the engine was replaced and this ground was not re-attached.
You can Ground this circuit with a jumper wire. Jumpering to Ground just one Coil-on-Plug Ignition Coil should provide Ground to all of them (consult your Repair Manual's Wiring Diagrams to be sure).
With this jumper wire to Ground attached, crank the vehicle.
If in fact the Ground Circuit does have an open short, this (the jumper wire to Ground) should make the vehicle start, or at least get the Ignition Coil to Spark.
Repair the open short and retest for Spark or retry starting the vehicle.


Hope this helps. Keep us updated.

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1 Answer

I have no spark in back cylinder and i have spark in front could it b a coil


Could be the coil, check the spark plug cap and wire first. Most plug caps are screwed on the wire, unscrew it and test continuity with an ohmmeter. If that checks out check the wire to make sure it has no damage to the insulation. If it will unscrew from the coil,(some are molded in and can't be removed) run a continuity test on it as well. If that checks out, you'll need to get the factory resistance spec's for the coil to test it. Good luck!

Jun 13, 2011 | 2001 Yamaha V Star Classic

1 Answer

94 fzr 600. no spark to cyl 2 and 3 i swapped the wires to from 1 and 4 see if it was the coil and the 2 and 3 sparked fine further ive tried to wire directly from the cdi to the coil with my own wires...


Hi, James8026 and the usual suspects are:
1. Fouled spark plugs.
2. Severely discharged or a damaged battery, should have 12.5 volts or better and be able to pass a load test if necessary.
3. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
4. Loose connection at ignition coil or plug between ignition sensor and module.
5. Spark plug cables in bad condition, shorting / leaking, spark plug cable connections loose.
6. Faulty ignition coil or ignition / electronic module
7. Faulty CKP, CMP, or BAS sensor.
8. Faulty ignition switch.
9. Security alarm failing to disarm needs reset
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the links below. Good luck and have a nice day.
http://mybikemanuals.com/yamaha/yamaha-fz-owners-manuals
OEM parts for Yamaha
https://www.tradebit.com/filedetail.php/2864660-yamaha-fzr-600-service-repair-manual-pdf
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View topic FZR 600 no spark

May 19, 2010 | 1994 Yamaha FZR 600

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