Question about 1993 Harley Davidson FXR Super Glide

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Battery is good, starter clicks but will not turn

Battery is good, starter clicks loud but will not turn flywheel to fire engine.

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Sounds like starter solenoid has packed it in or starter terminals are loose or dirty

Posted on Sep 23, 2012

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Try to start the motorcycle first by using jumper cables attatched to your car battery and if it starts your battery is toast. next check solinoid contacts clean the carbon off. is pinion gear engaging into ring gear fully. you can pull off primary cover to check after you drain the primary oil . check the starter allen bolts to inner primary cover for tightness, check ground strap for good clean tight connections. starter jack shaft bolt is only 5 foot lbs at the most if it is to tight its chamfered edge will not allow it to align itself to engage ring gear.

Posted on Nov 30, 2009

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Sounds like a bad starter. does it push start,..because if it does there's your answer.

Posted on Oct 04, 2009

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2 Answers

The starter does not connect with the flywheel when I turn on the key its like its missing the w Flywheel


quite possibly some of the teeth on the flywheel broke off . go see a mechanic

Feb 05, 2017 | Cars & Trucks

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Starter turns but wont engage engine?


Sounds like the Bendix... You might ought to pull the starter and look at the teeth on both the bendix of the starter and the flywheel. If the teeth on both are in good shape...then its probably a weak starter not throwing the bendix out to turn the flywheel. But...if the teeth are **** up on the bendix...its cheaper tp replace it. Make sure Battery is in good condition as well. Both battery AND starter can be tested at your local AutoZone... Hope this helps...

Aug 03, 2011 | Buick Riviera Cars & Trucks

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I pulled the starter,alternator & battery they all checked good and ity still wont turn over what could it be?


If you can hear the starter click or engage when you try to start . Either the battery has low voltage or the engine has seized. You can check the engine by putting a wrench on the crank pulley bolt and try to turn by hand.Make sure to disconnect the battery first. If the engine turns it's good. If the starter is making a loud grinding noise but does'nt turn the engine. It's your flywheel/flexplate. Also make sure your battery connections are clean and tight for proper voltage delivery. I'm not sure if your car would have a fuse or power relay for the starter,but it might be worth checking out. If you do not hear a click from the starter when you turn the key it could be a short in the ignition switch.Not the key tumbler,the electrical switch is behind the ignition key tumbler. Hope this helps. Other than this you may need a repair manual to trace the wiring of the starting system and fusable links.

Jul 25, 2011 | 1994 Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera

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When I try to start the car it makes a click sound and will not start. It only makes the click sound one time. I have changed the battery and replaced the starter and it still wont turn or even make a...


Did you also change the starter solenoid when you changed the starter? That is a possible cause.

Can you turn the engine over by hand from the crankshaft pulley to make sure the engine is not frozen or blocked? You will need a large socket to do that, but if you can't turn the engine over by hand, the starter won't be able to turn the flywheel either. The one click is probably the solenoid firing the starter piston to the flywheel but then nothing makes me think the engine is frozen in some way.

But if the starter and solenoid and battery is trying to turn a frozen flywheel, you should notice some drawdown of light intensity. Do you notice any change?

Jun 06, 2011 | 1991 Oldsmobile Ninety Eight Regency

1 Answer

The starter in my 95 Isuzu is going how do i replace it


I have pasted the procedure from autozone.com below, but I also recommend you read my starter post at http://www.fixya.com/cars/r5973094-starter_replace and let me know if you have questions.

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  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2. Raise and safely support the vehicle on jackstands.
  3. Label and disconnect the battery and starter control wires from the starter.
  4. If equipped, remove the starter bracket and/or heat shield.
  5. Remove the starter-to-engine mounting bolts.
  6. Lower the starter from the engine. If any shims are present, keep them for reinstallation purposes.

To install:
  1. Install the starter and shims, if equipped, to the engine. Tighten the mounting bolts to 30-34 ft. lbs. (39-44 Nm).
  2. Install the starter bracket and/or heat shield, if equipped.
  3. Reconnect the electrical connectors to the starter.
  4. Lower the vehicle.
  5. Connect the negative battery cable.
  6. Start the vehicle to make sure the starter functions correctly.


SHIMMING


Starter noise during cranking and after the engine fires is often a result of too much or tool little distance between the starter pinion gear and the flywheel. A high pitched whine during cranking (before the engine fires) can be caused by the pinion and flywheel being too far apart. Likewise, a whine after the engine starts (as the key is released) is often a result of the pinion-flywheel relationship being too close. In both cases flywheel damage can occur. Shims are available in various sizes to properly adjust the starter on its mount. In order to check and adjust the shims, you will also need a flywheel turning tool, available at most auto parts stores.
If your vehicle's starter emits the type of noise previously described, follow the shimming procedure below:

  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2. Raise and support the vehicle safely using jackstands.
  3. Remove the torque converter/flywheel cover from the bottom of the bell housing.
  4. Using the flywheel turning tool, turn the flywheel and examine the flywheel teeth. If damage is evident, the flywheel should be replaced.

Most starters are equipped with an access hole in which a small screwdriver or prybar may be inserted to push the starter pinion outward into contact with the flywheel.
  1. Move the starter pinion and clutch assembly so the pinion and flywheel teeth mesh. If necessary, rotate the flywheel so that a pinion tooth is directly in the center of the two flywheel teeth and on the centerline of the two gears, as shown in the accompanying illustration.

Normal pinion-to-flywheel clearance is about 0.01-0.06 in. (0.5-1.5mm).
  1. Check the pinion-to-flywheel clearance by using a 0.020 in. (0.5mm) wire gauge (a spark plug wire gauge may work here, or you can make your own). Make sure you center the pinion tooth between the flywheel teeth and the gauge-NOT in the corners, as you may get a false reading. If the clearance is under this minimum, shim the starter away from the flywheel by adding 0.04 in. (1mm) shims one at a time to the starter mount. Check clearance after adding each shim, but do not use more than 2 shims.
  2. If the clearance is over 0.060 in. (1.5mm), shim the starter towards the flywheel. Broken or severely mangled flywheel teeth are also a good indicator that the clearance here is too great. Shimming the starter towards the flywheel is done by adding shims to the outboard starter mounting pad only. Check the clearance after each shim is added. Add 0.013 in. (0.33mm) shims at this location, one at a time, but do NOT add a total of more than 4 shims.

Oct 28, 2010 | 1995 Isuzu Trooper

1 Answer

How to take a starter off of an 85 chevy caprice


Starter REMOVAL & INSTALLATION Fig. 1: If necessary disconnect the exhaust pipe(s) from the manifold(s) for access to the starter assembly 85313018.jpg Fig. 2: Once disconnected, the pipes should be suspended out of the way using wire or an old coat hanger 85313019.jpg Fig. 3: Although usually not necessary, the torque converter cover may be removed for additional access 85313020.jpg Fig. 4: Once the bolts are removed, the cover may be lowered from the transmission 85313021.jpg Fig. 5: The starter solenoid wiring should be tagged and disconnected 85313022.jpg Fig. 6: Various sized deep sockets will make disconnecting the wiring much easier 85313023.jpg Fig. 7: Loosen the start mounting bolts 85313024.jpg Fig. 8: Support the start and withdraw the bolts 85313025.jpg Fig. 9: Carefully tilt and lower the starter assembly from the vehicle 85313026.jpg Fig. 1: Check the gap between the starter pinion and flywheel 85313027.gif Fig. 2: Starter motor mounting — V6 (left) engine and diesel (right) engine 85313028.gif
Fig. 3: Starter motor mounting — inline six cylinder (top) and V8 engine with solenoid heat shield 85313029.gif
Starter noise during cranking and after the engine fires is often a result of too much or tool little distance between the starter pinion gear and the flywheel. A high pitched whine during cranking (before the engine fires) can be caused by the pinion and flywheel being too far apart. Likewise, a whine after the engine starts (as the key is released) is often a result of the pinion-flywheel relationship being too close. In both cases flywheel damage can occur. Shims are available in 0.015 in. sizes to properly adjust the starter on its mount. In order to check and adjust the shims, you will also need a flywheel turning tool, available at most auto parts stores or from any auto tool store or salesperson. If your car's starter emits the above noises, follow the shimming procedure below:
  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2. Raise and support the vehicle safely using jackstands.
  3. Remove the torque converter cover on the bottom of the bell housing.
  4. Using the flywheel turning tool, turn the flywheel and examine the flywheel teeth. If damage is evident, the flywheel should be replaced.
  5. Insert a screwdriver into the small hole in the bottom of the starter, then move the starter pinion and clutch assembly so the pinion and flywheel teeth mesh. If necessary, rotate the flywheel so that a pinion tooth is directly in the center of the two flywheel teeth and on the centerline of the two gears, as shown in the accompanying illustration.
  6. Check the pinion-to-flywheel clearance by using a 0.020 in. wire gauge (a spark plug wire gauge may work here, or you can make your own). Make sure you center the pinion tooth between the flywheel teeth and the gauge — NOT in the corners, as you may get a false reading. If the clearance is under this minimum, shim the starter away from the flywheel by adding shim(s) one at a time to the starter mount. Check clearance after adding each shim.
  7. If the clearance is a good deal over 0.020 in. (in the vicinity of a 0.050 in. plug), shim the starter towards the flywheel. Broken or severely mangled flywheel teeth are also a good indicator that the clearance here is too great. Shimming the starter towards the flywheel is done by adding shims to the outboard starter mounting pad only. Check the clearance after each shim is added. A shim of 0.015 in. at this location will decrease the clearance about 0.010 in. Battery and Starter Specifications Chart
    Battery and Starter Specifications Chart (Cont...)
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Sep 01, 2010 | 1985 Chevrolet Caprice

3 Answers

When attempting to start vehicle, you hear the starter whirling loudly, but not engaging the flywheel. Starter checked and it is good, battery checked and it is good also. All connections cleaned of all...


Just because your starter motor spins does not make it 100% good - it only makes it 50% good.

The other thing the starter has to do is move it's gear forward about 1/2-1" to engage the flywheel gear of the engine.

It sounds like your starter motor is not advancing, so I would continue to check there to make sure it is moving forward when current is applied. If you remove it from the car but leave the power connection, you can try turning the engine to see if it reacts correctly. If not, consider rebuilding or replacing it.

Jun 09, 2009 | 2003 Chevrolet Impala

3 Answers

Starter runs but won't engage flywheel


Hello, I would make sure that your car is not one of those half year cars becuase two differn't starters may be offered for the same year of car. Also, I would check and see if your battery has enough CCA's to power your system. The only other thing is to turn your crankshaft with a breaker bar to turn your flywheel to possibly get a fresh area of teeth on it. If none of this fails it's as simple as just replacing the flywheel. If you did a bench test on the starter and the bendix engaged that is good. Buying parts from an Auto parts store does not gurantee the part is good and that the bendix engages the full distance to turn the flywheel. I would try to find a mechanic who rebuilds starters to make sure that the bendix is engaging fully. I hope this helps you!

May 20, 2009 | 1986 Ford Ranger 2WD

2 Answers

1996 honda civic wont start


Hi Meadors,

The clicking sound you heard most likely the starter solenoid engaging the starter. Only in this case it's failing to engage the starter. This is a classic symptom of a low battery. Here's why.

In a perfect world, when you turn the key to start:
  1. the solenoid is fed 12VDC which engages an electromagnetic coil inside it.
  2. A spring loaded steel piston inside this coil reacts to the magnetic field. It is pulled against the spring. By itself this sounds like a loud decisive CLICK.
  3. The movement of the piston simultaneously pushes the starter gear into the flywheel and sends power to the starter via heavy duty contacts. The starter draws a lot of power.
  4. The starter spins, turns the engine, the engine starts, life is good.
  5. When the key is released, the solenoid disengages, the spring pushes the piston back, the starter gear disengages from the flywheel.
In our world, when you turn the key to start:
  1. The solenoid which draws it's share of power engages as before. Click.
  2. As the starter tries to spin, the power available is insufficient. It draws all remaining power, there isn't enough left to keep the solenoid active and it turns off.
  3. Since the starter isn't drawing power anymore, the solenoid re-engages and the cycle starts over. Click.
  4. The cycle repeats. Click. A series of rapid clicks. Same page?
While a dead battery is the prime suspect, there can be other causes. Things to do:

  • Check belts, specifically on the alternator.
  • Terminal connections clean and tight.
  • In the 'Let's not over look the obvious' department: Battery voltage?
  • Get a jump. Try a jump start.
  • If a jump gets you going, it is either the battery not holding a charge or the alternator not providing one.
Even new batteries can be bad off the shelf. Especially if they have been on that shelf for a while. They may show the voltage but not the amps. This is called a 'Surface Charge'.

If you don't have a voltmeter, what you need to do now is visit an auto parts store (not a shop). Most (in the hope of making a sale) will provide free testing of batteries and charging systems.

What you need is called a "Load Test" on the battery. It simulates the load of an engine being started. This will confirm the battery is good or bad.

Then with the car running, they need to check the voltage to the battery (they will know this). If it's not above +13VDC, the alternator is bad or not connected correctly.

And if it doesn't start, what better place to be?

Let me know what they and you find out by commenting.
Best regards
Mike

Jan 05, 2009 | 1996 Honda Civic

4 Answers

Battery good, wont turn over, just a click when try to start


it is most likley starter relay or starter.with vehicle in park and e-brake on have someone tap on the starter with hammer while your trying to start.if starter starts to crank then you know the starter is on the way out.if starter does not crank it may already be shot.srarter relay is on fire wall check power + ground.

Oct 26, 2008 | 2000 Ford F250 Super Duty Crew Cabs

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