Question about 2002 Yamaha V Star 1100 Classic

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Won't idle smooth-#2 cylynder back fires while idleing

The bike has not been used for a while. it has new plugs. took it for a ride about a month ago and it would just stop running, i would pull off the road and it would start back up. now when I try to start it, it will not idle smoothly and back fires from the rear cylinder. is it fuel, electrical or timing?

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Could be the carb or EFI system , a sticking valve or check fuel filter,try changing the oil and add some marvel mystery oil to it then start and let should also check your plugs and wires again to make sure one isnt loose and you didnt foul a plug

Posted on Oct 03, 2009

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I have gas leaking out of the bottom of the carbs where the drain plugs are. It only leaks when the bike is moving. Does not leak idling. It idles perfect and runs out perfect no spitting and sputtering or...

Possability the inlet seals on the float bowl are hard or just old and when you ride- the vibration allows too much gas to flow past the inlet seals causing the float bowls to overflow.

How long ago since the Carbs were serviced?.

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Won't idle even with choke on

It seems the idling jet (primary jet) is clogged, try to blow it out and see.

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I recently bought a Suzuki gs 550 and need to reduce idle speed i don't know how to do this at the carb

the idle adjustment screw is located between the number 2 and 3 carburator float bowls bottom rear. I can bairly get my hand on it, but found that a flat blade screwdriver works fine for making ajustments. backing out the screw lowers the idle speed, while running it in increases it. To adjust make sure the motor is warmed up and the choke is off. Make adjustments from the right side (looking at bike from the back), by pushing with the screwdriver on the knurals of the adjustment knob, pushing knurals up backs the screw out, conversly down runs it in. Try for around 1000 rpms for your set speed. You want it to idle smooth and low, but you want it set so it won't die out when you come to a stop when you are riding. If you can not get the idle in this range, then there is some other problem needing attention. However, the idle at times may run a little bit higher than normal when you come to a stop after a hard ride, and should return to normal set speed after it cools down some. You should also make sure that the throttle cable is set at the proper tenion, if too tight, you won't be able to lower the idle. you may have to make adjustments a few times to get it right.

Jun 12, 2011 | 1980 Suzuki Gs 550 L

1 Answer

How do i ajust my suzuki rm 80 carruetar

  • First locate the idle screw on bottom of carberator, It might be under a little 1/4" brass plug.
  • You will need to drill out plug to get to adjustment for smooth idle or correct mixture adjust.
  • Recommend pulling carb off of bike for this procedure
  • You should adjust idle jet first to about 2 1/2 turns out roughly then turn it in or out from there for highest rpm! Once that is done adjust idle speed with manual adjustment on left side of bike for smooth idle and about 900 rpms or so.
  • Basicly that is all there is too it. Unless you are installing a jet kit or something like that.
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Mar 30, 2011 | 2005 Honda CRF 230 F

1 Answer

My 2006 streetbob keeps miss firing when idleing and when I ride it changed plugs and wires and got a hd mechanic to analize it on a computer and still nothing. I took it to another shop and still they...

Don't let your bike just sit there idling. The choke circuit is needed for initial start-up.
If you leave the choke on, when it warms up a little, the choke circuit is putting to much fuel into the cylinders. The added fuel doesn't get fully ignited and just sits in the exhaust pipes. When you get on the throttle, the unburned fuel in the pipes gets ignited and explodes, causing the backfire.
Use the choke to get the bike running. You should be able to start riding after less than a 1/2 minute. And during that time the oil is well circulated to lube all internal parts.
As you're ridding, slowly turn the choke off in increments. As soon as the bike will idle on it's own, the choke should be off to prevent an over rich mixture and foul the plugs.
Plus you're well into your ride and have saved a little on gas mileage.

Oct 25, 2010 | 2006 Harley Davidson FXDBI Street Bob

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I am having running problems with my 2004 Yamaha Roadstar. I drove the bike at spring break 2009. Bike sat until yesterday. I tried to start it but the battery was dead and the gas was bad. Recharged the...

You have done a good job ... pat yourself on the back ... following that, go get some injector cleaner and add an appropriate amount to your tank and go for a ride. Do what ever you need to do to keep from pushing it home. I think this will solve your trouble.

May I recommend a fuel stabilizer for your fuel for future periods of time when you will not be riding? StaBil is a good brand but there are others as well.

Thank you for posting your question on

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Nov 09, 2009 | 2004 Yamaha Road Star

1 Answer

I have a 1999 honda valkyrie interstate. it is idling and throttling rough. with the choke engaged at startup it will only idle at about 1100 rpm. when i throttle up it it just doesnt feel like it should....

I would change the plugs and the air filter. Also I would put a full can of Techron or Seafoam in the gas tank and ride it to see if it clears up. If these bikes sit very long the slow jets in the carbs can partially or fully clog resulting in rough running. If the bike sits for long periods over 2 months I would also use a fuel stabilizer such as Seafoam or Stabil. Make sure when adding a fuel stabilizer that the bike runs long enough to get the additive in the carbs.

Sep 06, 2009 | 1999 Honda F6 C Valkyrie

1 Answer

Back firing at idle

A backfire comes from unburned fuel getting into the exhaust manifold and igniting.The cause is normally poor ignition. So it can be either your spark plug gap is too big, dirty, faulty, etc or your coils are problematic, but as 1 coil is allocated to 2 pots I would doubt this. The other is that the fuel mix of the cylinder is way too high and it can not burn all the fuel. balancing the carbs will help fix the problem. Your idle RPM should be around 12-1400.

To balance your carbs you need 4 vacuum guages. You will plug these into the carbs (1 per carb) by removing the screw in the manifold just above where each carb attaches to the engine. Set your idle screw to get the engine running at about 2-2500 rpm and adjust the butterfly position till you get all the vacuum gauges at the same reading (IE max that you can get for the pot).

Hope this helps

Apr 22, 2009 | 1988 Yamaha FZR 1000

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Daytona 650 Dies At Idle

First thing that came to my mind is the AIC Valve, If it's not that, you may want to check out the idle control system (I forget what it's called.... I can check if you want.) It's attached to the throttle bodies on the right hand side and it's basically a set of motors (maybe part of the choke system) My bike is throwing a code for it, and it will die every once in a while (still can't ride it, but at idle) And if I hold the throttle open at all, it'll be fine

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Spitting black

I have an 06 cr 250. I used to mix my fuel at 32:1 and it ran fine for a year or so as of late it's been fouling plugs every single ride. I've ridden 2-strokes all my life and know how to ride the powerband but lately its been spitting oil out of every seam in the exhaust. It used to maybe have a couple drops after a ride out the end of the pipe but now its leaking from the connection from the case, the pipe to muffler connection and a lot out the back of the muffler. i switched to 40:1 about a month ago and that's what is happening, i couldnt imagine what it'd be like if i left it at 32:1. I took the carb out and looked at my jet sizes, they are both a size smaller than stock. Any help? Also, the bike is so tempermental that I have to have all my gear on when i start the bike because I cant take my hand off the throttle for even a second or else the bike will foul the plug and die literally within 2 seconds. I know they arent meant to idle but its kinda extreme. my friend has a 2005 cr 250 and mixes 32:1 has no problem, can start his bike on the stand and walk away from it for 5 mins and put his gear'd idle for at least 10 min before it'd die, but he'll kick it and it'd start right back up. I've heard running bean oil would help, but I've also heard it has a tendancy to seize up the rings? any truth in that? ,I would try more gas in your mixture, before you start changing everything. Its all in the way your ride, some people can do 32:1, some 40:1(me), some 50:1. ,,,

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