How to remove front axle from differential on a yamaha timberwolf
I bought a used front axle with the entire cv joint and spline on both ends. I have the front wheel off and need instructions how to remove the rest from the front differential. the picture shows a ring clip at the end of the spline on the diff side but it seems to be inside the differential.
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Insert a steel rod into the brake rotor to prevent the rotor from turning and loosen the axle wheel hub nut. Discard the nut.
Remove the ball joint-to-front wheel knuckle retaining nut. Drive the bolt out of the front wheel knuckle using a punch and hammer.
Remove the front brake anti-lock sensor and position it out of the way.
Separate the ball joint from the front wheel knuckle using a prybar. Position the end of the prybar outside of the bushing pocket to avoid damage to the bushing.
Use care to prevent damage to the front wheel driveshaft joint boot.
Remove the stabilizer bar link at the front stabilizer bar.
Make sure the CV-joint puller does not contact the transaxle shaft speed sensor. Damage to the sensor will result.
Install a CV-Joint Puller (T86P-3514-A1) or equivalent between the inboard CV-joint and the transaxle case.
Install a CV-Joint Extension (T86P-3514-A2) or equivalent into the puller and hand-tighten.
Using an impact slide hammer, remove the driveshaft from the transaxle.
Do not allow the front wheel driveshaft and joint to hang unsupported. Damage to the front wheel driveshaft joint may result. Do not wrap wire around the front wheel driveshaft joint boot. Damage to the boot may result.
Support the end of the driveshaft and joint assembly by suspending it from the chassis using a length of wire.
Never use a hammer to separate the outboard front wheel driveshaft joint from the wheel hub. Damage to the outboard front wheel driveshaft joint threads and internal components may result.
Separate the outboard front wheel driveshaft joint from the wheel hub using a Front Hub Remover/Replacer (T81P-1104-C) or equivalent. Make sure the hub remover adapter is fully threaded onto the hub stud.
Do not move the vehicle without the outboard CV-joint properly installed, as damage to the bearing may occur.
Remove the front wheel driveshaft and joint assembly from the vehicle.
To install: Do not reuse the retainer circlip. A new circlip must be installed each time the inboard CV-joint stub shaft is installed into the transaxle differential.
Install a new retainer circlip on the inboard CV-joint stub shaft by starting one end in the groove and working the retainer circlip over the inboard shaft housing end and into the groove. This will avoid overexpanding the circlip.
A non-metallic mallet may be used to aid in seating the retainer circlip into the differential side gear groove. If a mallet is necessary, tap only on the outboard CV-joint stub shaft.
Carefully align the splines of the inboard CV-joint stub shaft housing with the splines in the differential. Exerting some force, push the inboard CV-joint stub shaft housing into the differential until the retainer circlip is felt to seat in the differential side gear. Use care to prevent damage to the inboard CV-joint stub shaft and transaxle seal.
Carefully align the splines of the outboard front wheel driveshaft joint with the splines in the wheel hub, and push the shaft into the wheel hub as far as possible.
Temporarily fasten the front disc brake rotor to the wheel hub with washers and two lug nuts. Insert a steel rod into the front disc brake rotor and rotate clockwise to contact the front wheel knuckle, to prevent the front disc brake rotor from turning during front wheel driveshaft and joint installation.
A new front axle wheel hub retaining nut must be installed.
Manually thread the front axle wheel hub retaining nut onto the outboard CV-joint stub shaft housing as far as possible.
A new bolt and nut must be used to connect the front suspension arm to the knuckle.
Connect the front suspension lower arm to the front wheel knuckle. Tighten the nut and bolt to 40-55 ft. lbs. (54-74 Nm).
Install the front brake anti-lock sensor.
Connect the front stabilizer bar link and tighten to 35-45 ft. lbs. (47-65 Nm).
Do not use power or impact tools to tighten the hub nut.
Tighten the front axle wheel hub retaining nut to 157-212 ft. lbs. (213-287 Nm).
Install the front wheels and lower the vehicle.
Using the recommended type of fluid, fill the transaxle to the proper level.
Fig. Fig. 9: Removing the ball joint to steering knuckle clamp bolt
Fig. Fig. 10: Remove the retaining bolt and remove the speedometer pinion from the transaxle assembly
Fig. Fig. 11: Separate the ball joint from the knuckle by prying downward against the knuckle and arm
Fig. Fig. 12: Separate the outer CV-joint splines from the knuckle hub by holding the CV-housing and pushing the knuckle out
Fig. Fig. 13: Support the assembly and pull outward on the inner CV-housing to free the assembly from the transaxle
Fig. Fig. 14: Separating the assembly from the transaxle
Fig. Fig. 15: Removing the assembly from the transaxle
Fig. Fig. 16: Removing the seal from the housing using a suitable prying tool
Remove the cotter pin, lockwasher and spring washer from the front axle ends.
Have a helper apply the service brakes and loosen the front axle hub retaining nut.
Raise and support the front of the vehicle on jackstands.
Remove the hub nut, washer and wheel assembly. Drain transaxle fluid.
The speedometer drive pinion must be removed from the transaxle housing before the right side drive axle can be removed. Remove the retaining bolts and lift the pinion with cable connected from the housing.
Remove the clamp bolt that secures the ball joint stud with the steering knuckle.
Separate the ball joint from the knuckle by prying downward against the knuckle connecting point and the control arm. Take care not to damage the rubber boot.
Separate the outer CV-joint (Constant Velocity) splines from the steering knuckle hub by holding the CV housing and pushing the knuckle out and away. If resistance is encountered, use a brass drift and hammer to gently tap the outer hub end of the axle. Do not pry on the outer wear sleeve of the CV-joint.
After the outboard end of the drive axle has been removed from the steering knuckle, support the assembly and pull outward on the inner CV-joint housing to remove the assembly from the transaxle.
Do not pull on the shaft or the assembly will disconnect. Pull only on the inner CV-joint housing.
Remove the halfshaft from under the vehicle and service as necessary.
When installing the halfshaft, hold the inner joint assembly by its housing, align and guide the shaft into the transaxle or intermediate shaft assembly.
Lubricate the outer wear sleeve and seal with multi-purpose grease. Push the steering knuckle outward and install the splined outer shaft into the drive hub.
Install the steering knuckle assembly. Tighten the ball joint clamp bolt to 70 ft. lbs. (95 Nm). Tighten the hub nut (splined shaft nut) to 180 ft. lbs. (250 Nm). Refill the transaxle with the proper lubrication fluid.
If after installing the axle assembly, the inboard boot appears collapsed, vent the boot by inserting a thin round rod between the boot and the shaft. Massage the boot until is expands. Install a new clamp to prevent dirt from entering the boot.
Clicking noise sounds very much like a bad CV joint, usually pronounced on turns. Not a bad job to replace. Remove wheel, caliper, rotor and three spline head bolts securing bearing housing to axle support. Then tap axle flange behind spindle until entire axle assy.slides out of support.It's much easier to replace entire axle assy. Includes axle, CV joint, boot, and lube. Try AutoZone for parts, very reasonable. Good Luck!
YOU CAN GET A BOOT REPAIR KIT OR A ZIP BOOT.DO NOT LIKE ZIP BOOT,DOESNT WORK . BEST TO GET A REMANUFACTURED AXLE AND REPLACE AS A UNIT,DOESNT COST MUCH MORE AND WIL WORK WITH A WARRANTY.TAKE OFF WHEEL,LOOSEN AXLE NUT,TAKE OFF LOWER BALL JOINT,POP AXLE WITH HAMMER TO DRIVE AVLE OUT OF BEARING A LITTLE WAYS THEN PUILL UP ON STRUT ASSEMBLY TO GET AXLE ALL THE WAY OUT OF BEARING/HUB ASSEMBLT. POP OUT AXLE ANT HE SLIDE IN THE NEW UNIT
Loosen the lug nuts (turning counter-clockwise) to finger
tight on the front wheel with the damaged CV joint. Buy, borrow or rent a
CV nut socket. Some auto parts stores will sell you one for about $30
and refund your money when you return it. Because the CV nut in the
center of the wheel hub is locked in place with a safety
tab, it is loosened initially with a long breaker bar or a hollow pipe
placed over the ratchet handle to increase the torque needed to break
the nut free. Loosen to finger tightness.
Set safety brakes and jack up the front of the car toward the side of the damaged CV joint using at least a 2 1/2-ton jack. Both the car
and the jack should be on a hard, level surface and the lifting point
must be a load-bearing member on the chassis or engine cradle. Place two
jack stands under the front end and slowly lower the car onto the jack
stands so the car chassis is fully resting on the stands. Now, pull out
the jack and move it out of the way.
Remove the wheel lug nuts and pull off the wheel from the
hub. If it doesn't cooperate, kick the bottom of the tire sidewall with
the back of your heel or the flat of your hand to dislodge it. Unscrew
the center CV nut. To dislodge the male spline outboard end of the CV
joint that fits into the female spline in the back of the wheel hub,
take the CV nut and screw it back on three or four turns, then strike it
with a hammer to partially disengage the splines.
Remove the ball joint stud on the lower control arm from its socket in the spindle behind the wheel
hub, after you remove a locking bolt, cotter pin or other device that
holds the ball joint stud that protrudes from the lower control arm.
Then, wedge a pry bar (called a pickle fork) between the tie rod and
sway bar. To gain greater leverage, insert the pry bar handle into a
length of pipe and apply downward pressure to remove the ball joint stud
from the spindle.
Remove the CV joint and shaft. With the lower ball joint
disconnected from the wheel spindle, the hub can be moved to the side
just enough to remove the outer CV joint from the spindle socket in the
back of the wheel hub. Do not stretch the brake line that is attached to
the wheel brake cylinder as you move the hub aside. With the outboard
end of the shaft free of the wheel, pull the shaft straight out from the
transmission housing. Because of the labor involved with repairing or
replacing CV joints, it's more cost effective to simply replace the
entire shaft assembly including the two CV joints and boots.
Install the new shaft and CV joint assembly. Clean the
transmission seal that came off the old unit; pack it with grease and
place it over the inboard spline of the new unit before inserting new
shaft into transmission. Make sure splines are lined up before tapping
the other end of the shaft with a hammer to seat it in its socket.
Carefully insert the other end of the shaft back into the wheel hub and
loosely thread on the new CV bolt that came with the assembly.
Reinstall the ball joint stud into the spindle by
re-inserting the pry bar between the tie rod and the sway bar and
leveraging down the lower control arm with the ball joint stud
positioned just under the spindle hole. Then release pressure on the pry
bar so the ball joint stud re-seats into the spindle. Push the wheel
hub all the way onto the shaft spline to seat and torque down the CV nut
tight. With a flat head screwdriver tap the lip of the new CV nut into
the groove cut into the screw end. Now, re-attach the ball joint locking
bolt, put the tire back, replace lug nuts and tighten. Remove the car
from the jack stands and finish tightening the tire lug nuts.
The replacement of the CV axle is much easier with the vehicle lifted on a suspension lift. With the minivan in neutral and the steering wheel unlocked, removal of the front tire and then caliper assembly will be required. Remove the entire caliper assembly with pads intact to save a step. Be sure to support the caliper assembly to the coil spring so it does not incur damage to the rubber brake hose.
The disconnection of the lower ball joint and outer tie rod end will also be required to allow free movement of the steering knuckle. For Caravans that employ speed sensors, remove the wire harness from the knuckle connection as well.
Remove the cotter pin and castle-headed nut lock from the CV spindle. Next, remove the spring washer and the hub nut. This will require a large socket and breaker bar or a pneumatic gun. To separate the CV axle spindle from the steering knuckle, thread the hub nut back onto the spindle so it's exposing a few threads at the top. Tap on the nut with a large rubber mallet until the splines of the spindle separate from the adjoining knuckle.
At this point, it's wise to place a drain bucket beneath the transaxle side of the CV joint connection to catch trickling transaxle fluid that will leak out once the connection of the axle to transmission is separated.
Because the tie rod end and ball joint connections have been separated, you'll be able to manipulate the knuckle from the CV axle spindle. This requires determination and having an assistant would be helpful.
Once the outer spindle connection of the CV axle is free from the knuckle, you'll need a large pry bar to disengage the inner tri-pot joint out of the transaxle and remove the CV axle from the transmission. This is where some fluid will leak into the drain bucket.
To install the new axle, start with the inner connection to the transaxle so that the inner joint circlip seats in the transaxle side gear. An audible click of the circlip should be heard and then test the connection by trying to pull out on the axle by hand. There will be a little free-play in the axle, but if the circlip is seated, you will not be able to disconnect the axle without the aide of the pry bar.
Next, align the splines of the outer CV axle spindle to the grooves in the steering knuckle. Do not force this connection. Rotate the axle by hand until the splines align properly to the groove. Reconnect the remaining components by reversing the procedure.
Be sure to torque the hub nut, outer tie rod end nut and ball joint retaining nut to the proper torque specifications of your specific year Caravan. Since the Caravan has been around for quite a while and has employed different engine sizes, there may be a slight variance in the torque specs. A quality repair manual for the specific year and design of your Caravan will display the correct torque specs.
Last, replace the wheel and then check and adjust the level of the transaxle fluid. Although only a little may have trickled out by the disconnection, the fluid should be topped off to capacity.
no, here's the procedure for 2002 windstar, should be similar. please rate, thanks.
NOTE: This procedure applies to both the LH and RH halfshaft assemblies.
Raise and support the vehicle. For additional information, refer to Section 100-02 .
Remove the front wheel and tire assembly. For additional information, refer to Section 204-04 .
Insert a steel rod in the brake disc to prevent the halfshaft from turning while removing the front axle wheel end nut.
CAUTION: The front axle wheel end nut is a torque prevailing design nut. Do not reuse it. Remove the nut and washer.
Remove the steel rod in the brake disc.
WARNING: Remove or tape the brake pads to prevent them from falling out of the anchor plate. CAUTION: To prevent damage to the brake hose, do not allow the disc brake caliper to hang suspended from the hose. Remove the bolts and position the disc brake caliper aside.
Remove the front brake anti-lock sensor harness from the clip.
Remove and discard the nut and bolt.
If necessary, use a punch and a hammer to drive the bolt out of the knuckle.
CAUTION: Position the end of the pry bar outside the bushing pocket to avoid damage to the bushing. CAUTION: Do not damage the front wheel driveshaft joint boot (3A331). Separate the front suspension lower arm from the knuckle.
CAUTION: Never use a hammer to separate the front wheel driveshaft joint (3B413) from the wheel hub. Damage to the joint threads and internal components can result. Using the special tool, press on the front wheel driveshaft joint until it is loose in the wheel hub.
Rotate the front wheel knuckle rearward, while pulling it outward at the bottom and remove the front wheel driveshaft joint from the wheel hub.
Using a pry bar, separate the inboard CV joint housing assembly (3B436) (3B437) from the transaxle.
CAUTION: Do not damage the differential seal. Remove the halfshaft assembly with both hands.
Lubricate the differential seal.
Use MERCON® V Automatic Transmission Fluid XT-5-QM or equivalent meeting MERCON® V specifications.
CAUTION: Install a new circlip every time you remove the halfshaft from the vehicle. On the RH side halfshaft only, install a new circlip in the groove in the inboard CV joint stub shaft.
Start one end in the groove and work the circlip over the shaft and into the groove. This will prevent the circlip from over-expanding.
CAUTION: Do not damage the inboard CV joint housing assembly and the differential seal. NOTE: If necessary, use a non-metallic mallet to aid in seating the circlip in the differential side gear groove (RH) or inboard CV joint housing (LH). Tap only on the outboard front wheel driveshaft joint. Align the inboard CV joint housing splines with the differential side gear splines (RH) or output shaft splines (LH), and push the inboard CV joint housing assembly inward until the circlip seats in the differential side gear (RH) or inboard CV joint housing (LH).
Align the front wheel driveshaft joint splines and the wheel hub splines, and push the joint into the wheel hub as far as possible.
Install the washer and the old nut. Using the old nut, seat the front wheel driveshaft joint in the hub. Remove the old nut and discard it.
Connect the suspension lower arm to the knuckle.
CAUTION: Install a new bolt and nut. Install the new bolt and nut.
Insert a steel rod in the brake disc to prevent the halfshaft from turning while installing the new front axle wheel end nut.
Apply a small patch of Loctite 242 or equivalent meeting Ford specification WSK-M2G351-A5 to the last five front wheel driveshaft joint threads.
CAUTION: Install and tighten the new front axle wheel end nut to specification in a continuous rotation. Stopping the rotation during installation will cause the nylon lock to set incorrectly. This will cause incorrect torque readings while tightening the nut, and lead to bearing failure. Always install a new front axle wheel end nut after loosening the nut, or when the nut has not been installed to specification in a continuous rotation. Install and tighten the new nut to specification in a continuous rotation.
Remove the steel rod from the brake disc.
Position the disc brake caliper and install the bolts.
Install the front brake anti-lock sensor harness in the clip.
Install the wheel and tire assembly. For additional information, refer to Section 204-04 .
Lower the vehicle.
Check and, if necessary, fill the transaxle to the correct level with the specified fluid. For additional information, refer to Section 307-01 .
SECTION 205-05: Rear Drive Halfshafts
2002 Explorer/Mountaineer Workshop Manual
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
Protector, Differential Seal 205-506
Remover, Front Wheel Hub 205-D070 (D93P-1175-B) or equivalent
Remover, Halfshaft 205-502 Removal and Installation NOTE: This procedure applies to both rear halfshaft assemblies.
CAUTION: Do not loosen the rear axle wheel hub retainer until after the wheel and tire assembly are removed from the vehicle. Wheel bearing damage will occur if the wheel bearing is unloaded with the weight of the vehicle applied. With the vehicle in NEUTRAL, raise and support the vehicle. For additional information, refer to Section 100-02 .
Remove the rear wheel and tire assembly. For additional information, refer to Section 204-04 .
NOTE: Have an assistant press the brake pedal to keep the axle from rotating. Remove and discard the rear axle wheel hub retainer and the washer.
CAUTION: To prevent damage to the brake hose, do not allow the disc brake caliper to hang suspended from the hose. Remove the brake disc.
Remove the two bolts and lift the disc brake caliper and brake pads off the brake disc.
Using mechanics wire, position the disc brake caliper out of the way.
Remove the brake disc.
Remove the bolt retaining the parking brake cable bracket to the frame.
CAUTION: Cover the stabilizer link bolt threads and the nut to prevent boot damage when removing the halfshaft assembly from the vehicle. Using a rubber hose approximately 37.5 mm (1.5 in) long, cover the stabilizer link bolt threads and nut.
WARNING: The bolt that retains the upper ball joint to the knuckle is longer and it has fewer threads than the bolt that retains the toe link to the knuckle. Switching these bolts during installation will prevent the pinch arms on the knuckle from correctly retaining the toe link to the knuckle. This may cause the toe link to separate from the knuckle during vehicle operation. Failure to follow these instructions may result in personal injury. Remove the pinch bolts and disconnect the toe link and upper ball joint from the knuckle.
CAUTION: Support the rear suspension upper arm to prevent boot damage when removing the halfshaft assembly from the vehicle. Using a wood stick, approximately 450 mm (18 in) long and 25 mm (1 in) wide, support the rear suspension upper arm.
CAUTION: Do not use a hammer to separate the outboard CV joint from the hub. Damage to the threads and internal CV joint components may result. CAUTION: Once the outboard CV joint separates from the hub the knuckle will continue to pivot until the brake backing plate presses against the suspension lower arm. To prevent damage to the brake backing plate, immediately after separating the outboard CV joint from the hub, rest the knuckle on a cushioned support that is tall enough to keep the backing plate from pressing against the suspension lower arm. Separate the outboard CV joint from the hub and rest the knuckle on a cushioned support.
Using the special tool, press the outboard CV joint until it is loose in the hub.
Remove the special tool.
Separate the outboard CV joint from the hub.
Rest the knuckle on a cushioned support.
CAUTION: Do not damage the axle shaft oil seal or the machined sealing surface on the inboard CV joint housing. CAUTION: Do not allow the splines on inboard CV joint housing to touch the axle shaft oil seal. NOTE: A circlip retains the inboard CV joint housing to the differential side gear in the axle. Using the special tool, disengage the inboard CV joint housing from the differential side gear.
CAUTION: To prevent damage to the axle shaft oil seal, install the special tool before removing the inboard CV joint housing from the axle. Install the special tool.
Remove the halfshaft assembly from the vehicle.
CAUTION: To prevent damage to the axle shaft oil seal, install the Differential Seal Protector before positioning the inboard CV joint housing in the axle. CAUTION: Always install the halfshaft with a new retainer circlip and a new rear axle wheel hub retainer. CAUTION: Never use power tools to tighten the rear axle wheel hub retainer. To install, reverse the removal procedure.
i can only guess it is a 3.0l 4v well as far as the axle goes, the rh outer half shaft seperates at the splines on the intermediate shaft.
the intermediate shaft is the solid shaft from the trans to a bearing support bracket and ends after that. it is externally splined.
the rh axleshaft , inner cv joint, is internally splined.
to remove the rh axleshaft, remove the rh wheel and splash shield.
removed the lower balljoint pichbolt and seperate the lower balljoint front the steering knuckle. take the axle nut off and using a large brass drift or hardwood, drive the axle out of the bearing-hub assembly. DO NOT DAMAGE THE THREADS. also use some lubricant on the axle nut dissasembly. after the outer axle end is free, using the same brass drift or other, hit the inner cv joint and drive it off the intermediate shaft. inspect the splines closely because these fail and cause a no-drive condition.
then the mounint bolts for the support bearing and pull the intermedate shaft out, you will loose some fluid.