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Hi, Homatec this is not rocket science you have a simple basic issue my suggestion is you contact customer service at the BMW factory politely explain your bike won't idle and you dealer does not know how to fix it finish by asking the question "what should I do?"
that should light a fire under someone's rear end at your dealership and in a blink of an eye they will fix your bike meanwhile, the following applies to carbureted also fuel injected models and the usual suspects are:
1. Severely discharged or a damaged battery, 9 volts or lower.
2. Faulty alternator/generator and or voltage regulator.
3. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
4. Faulty main circuit breaker or ignition switch, check for loose connections and continuity.
5. Faulty system and or ignition relay, check for continuity.
6. Faulty ignition coil, ignition/electronic module.
7. Faulty CKP, CPS, CMP, MAP, TPS, O2, or BAS sensor, corroded, loose or broken wire connector pins/sockets.
8. Water or dirt in the fuel system, carburetor or filter.
9. . Restricted, blocked or kinked fuel line.
10. Fuel tank empty.
11. The gas cap is not venting properly or fuel tank venting system blocked.
12. A faulty Fuel Pump, pressure regulator and or fuel injectors.
13. Vacuum line from intake manifold to petcock broken, cracked, or not attached, carburetor vent line plugged.
14. Needle and seat stuck closed in the float bowl.
For more information about your issue, please visit the websites below. Good luck and have nice a day. How To Test and Replace Idle Air Control Valve P0505 HD R1200C stalling issue BMW Luxury Touring Community Bmw r1200c montauk service manual BMW Motorcycle Parts Fiche OEM BMW Motorcycle Parts online 1970 present BMW http://www.bmw-motorrad.com/us/en/index.html?content=http://www.bmw-motorrad.com/us/en/services/manuals/manuals_main.html¬rack=1
Hi T_mutis, it should be noted that in order to "PROPERLY" diagnosis any electric starter issue it is "IMPERATIVE" that you begin with a fully charged battery 12.5 volts or better and be able to pass a proper load test, and the usual suspects are:
1. Battery terminals have loose or corroded connections.
2. Battery cables faulty due corroded or broken internal wiring at the cable connector especially the "NEGATIVE" cable which needs to be checked at "BOTH" ends.
3. Battery voltage, 12.5 volts or better,to the main circuit breaker to the ignition switch to the security/ignition fuse to the TSM/TSSM module to the engine stop/run switch to the starter button to the starter relay to the green wire that connects to the starter solenoid has dropped more than 1/2 volt.
4. With a voltmeter connected to the battery, the ignition switch in the on position, the kill switch in the run position, the starter button depressed, starter engagement should not bring voltage below 8-9 volts.
If a lower voltage is produced a proper battery load test should be performed with a load tester to validate battery integrity or battery replacement.
5. Faulty starter relay, check continuity.
6. Faulty starter solenoid, check contact plate and shoes for excessive electrical erosion/etching, refurbish as necessary or invert contact plate and use the virgin backside. Check contact shoes for being loose. Replace solenoid if the negative function is still a final outcome.
7. Faulty starter, bench test starter with a 12-volt battery if negative function check, decontaminate and undercut armature commutator segments as necessary, check segments with an ohm-meter probe each one and the segment next to it for shorts. Have the armature tested with a growler and field coils, and brush plate with an ohm-meter for opens, shorts or grounds. Replace brushes if less than .438" It is generally cheaper to overhaul/refurbish a starter motor than buy a new one.
For more information about your issue, please visit the websites below. Good luck and have a nice day. Starter solenoid relay How to diagnose and recognise starter motor problems 1997 2004 BMW R850C R1200C Service Manual Moto Data Project BMW Motorcycle Parts Fiche OEM BMW Motorcycle Parts online 1970 present BMW http://www.bmw-motorrad.com/us/en/index.html?content=http://www.bmw-motorrad.com/us/en/services/manuals/manuals_main.html¬rack=1
I believe that you will find the coil under the tank right at the front of the bike.Follow the spark plug wires to narrow it down.I have a R1200C and this is where I think BMW has placed them on all their 1200 series bikes.good luck
I have seen a few of the R1200C bikes with this rattle.... There is a cat. converter in the exhaust system and it sits between the pipes approx. under the transmission. This is the usual cause of the rattle.
Warm the bike up by riding it around for a while, then stop the engine and use a plastic face or rubber hammer to tap on the exhaust system in the area near the transmission to see if you can hear a rattle or something loose in the exhaust. This should give you some idea where the source of the rattle is.
There is no easy fix for this problem except replacement of the offending parts.
Sounds like your flooding it out with the choke out. Try the next time you go to start the bike when it's cold with the choke out and when it starts push the choke all the way in and keep it running with the throtle. If it runs better after doing this then your flooding it on start up. Use 1/2 choke to start cold and see what it does. Good Luck