Question about 1989 kawasaki ZXR 750

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I cleaned it out with the Kreem product then lind it wi rust olium grey seems to be going ok except the fuel charckle filter some one removed an i would like to replace it commets thats the only difaculty im thinking off

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The gas tank seems to be rjecting the rustoilum some but some remained with fuel in it,the fuel seems to be holding up with most of the rustoilum just bonding to the inside of the tank. im thinking of puting a extra fuel filter in a transparent one to further monitor the fuel system.

Posted on Dec 28, 2009

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I am facing problem to startbike and low performance all electricalparts are ok. bike dosenot run smoothly and suffocate

start with the basic.
is there fuel air and spark
remove spark plugs check if there wet it means you tied to start for too long.
rest sparkplug on metal part of bike and turn over spark ok next is fuel remove carbs and clean ensure all passage ways are clean and moving parts are free to move.
check tank has been drained of fuel check for rust if rust present use rust remover or kream takes 3 days.
clean fuel filter.
clean air filters.
check that youre bike has no low oil pressure cut out if so clean oil filter and replace oil, check oil pressure is maintaining.
if in doubt lubricate wd40 and duck tape can solve 88% of problems.

Sep 26, 2013 | 2008 Yamaha Gladiator SS

1 Answer

How can i clean out a tank that has in it a lot of residue

I used a strong acid. Sherwin Williams Duel Etch. I think it was a muratic acid. On tanks with heavy rust I would drop some small nuts and bolts inside to aide in knock the rust off. (count the nuts and bolts to make sure you get as many out as you put in).

There is a product named Kreem. They have a tank wash/cleaner, a conditioner and a liner. I have also used this stuff in the past and it seems like a pretty good product.

Sep 22, 2011 | 1991 kawasaki Zephyr 750

1 Answer

Im having problems with my bike fuel tank is real dirty i had my carbs cleaned and it ran for a little bet and then it started to bogg out like if its running out of fuel i think i need new fuel tank @nd...

I would clean the tank and the filter on the fuel valve. Then I would seal the valve hole and use " KREEM " inside the tank. Kreem is a liquid resin that will seal the tank so rust will no longer be a problem. Add an in-line fuel filter when remounting the fuel valve. Below is a site for Kreem and a site for parts that may help you. Please rate my answer. Thanks.

Aug 31, 2010 | 1985 Honda VT 500 C Shadow

1 Answer

My 93 EX 500 bogs at 5k rpm

Hello you have a heavily rusted fuel tank, i would suspect the fuel petcock is being restricted.
As for the fuel tank here is a link to a product to remove the rust from your tank.
I have used it and it gets rid of it excelent product.

May 25, 2010 | 1993 kawasaki KLE 500

1 Answer

Hello, I actually have a Honda Vt250 Spada, but co...

Hi, Anonymous you may a faulty ignition system but taking into consideration your last carburetor episode to properly fix fuel contamination issues you must start at the source the "GAS TANK" you will need to buy a gas tank rust remover and metal prep solution system, go online and research the different products available, stay away from vinegar, rust converters and liquid Kreem liners, I recommend POR15 because it stops rust permanently you will also need some nuts and bolts ball bearings etc. and a service manual.
1. Remove the tank and drain all fuel and let dry.
2. Remove petcock and filter or fuel pump and filter.
3. Seal all openings except the top fuel filler opening with tape, plugs, or rubber *******.
4. Fill the tank with a strong solution of Dawn soap and water, seal the opening and shake vigorously for 1 minute and let sit for 30 minutes, remove the gas cap and pour out contents, rinse with a garden hose or pressure washer and let dry thoroughly.
4. Pour in 1/2 cup of nuts, bolts, ball bearings, etc. and seal the opening, shake vigorously for 2 minutes.
5. Open the gas cap and shake out all nuts and bolts along with dirt and rust, use a flashlight to inspect results and repeat as necessary until all rust is removed.
6. Following the directions of your rust remover product begin the procedure of removing residual rust, remember bare metal when dry will start to rust/oxidize immediately so make your last step a final rinse of solvent or kerosene anything that has a petroleum base, your first tank of fuel will mix with the residual solvent and not damage your fuel system.
7. Properly clean or replace all fuel filters, petcock, and fuel lines.
8. Remove and disassemble carburetor/s and properly clean all parts use a carburetor dip if necessary for the really bad ones.
9. For you injected folks use carb cleaner for the injectors and fuel rails and test with battery jumpers for proper function. If your not in a hurry I recommend the services of
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
Stop Rust Permanently Jay Leno Garage
Honda VT250 FII Shop Manual
Honda VT250 FII Owner Manual

Mar 26, 2017 | Honda VT 250 F Motorcycles

2 Answers

Thinking of buying 1985 ZL900 eliminator...with 50K miles 1. saw light rust inside the tank. is this a big problem? how can I clean it out ? 2. bike starts up and runs fine. then, stalls after driven...

Rust in the tank not a big problem, there is a product called Kreem you can buy the kit comes with bottle of rust remover and bottle of dryer and a bottle of internal sealer/coating.

May 13, 2010 | 1985 kawasaki ZL 900 A1 Eliminator

1 Answer

Take gas tank out

Don't know what year your bike is but generally, remove any farings in the way then remove the tank. Only two or three bolts hold it on. I suggest you get a liquid tank liner to seal the rust and prevent further corrosion. This way you never have the problem again.

Google “ kreem liquid fuel tank liner “ or go to www.

Can I get a “very helpful” rating on this answer?

Aug 28, 2009 | Honda GL 1200 Aspencade Gold Wing...

1 Answer

Rough start on Honda 750 Aero Shadow. Starts great in reserve, but when you shut reserve off it stalls out. Backfired too. Any advice?

Chances are the main filter screen is plugged with rust and trash. The reserve filter screen doesn't get used much so trash hasn't been drawn into it too much. Remove the gas petcock assembly and clean it. You may want to consider a liquid tank liner. It will seal the rust so that it will no longer be a problem. Google “ kreem liquid fuel tank liner “ or go to www.

Can I get a “very helpful” rating on this answer?

Aug 17, 2009 | 1984 Honda CBX 750 F

2 Answers

I picked up some dirty fuel

Water condensation inside the tank is where the water probably came from. Consider a liquid tank liner to seal the rust from the gas and prevent further rusting. Google “ kreem liquid fuel tank liner “ or go to www.

Drain the carbs. If that doesn't work check the plugs for feathering. If that doesn't fix it then remove the float bowls and clean the carbs.

Aug 06, 2009 | 1996 Suzuki GSX 600 F (Katana)

2 Answers

White film inside fuel tank coming off.

Sorry - misunderstood.
sounds like Kreem tank sealer or similar (there are lots of brands...) - treat for same.

  • Work in a well ventilated area
  • Don't have ignition sources around (if you light-up, you might REALLY light-up!)
  • Be aware that acetone can eat away at a nice paint job, wipe it off immediately
  • Sucking acetone fumes into a shop vac can cause fire from the electric

1. two gallons of acetone
2. 3 foot length of chain - the type of brass chain used for plant hangers works well.
3. large drip pan
4. two fabricated petcock hole covers
5. tank epoxy from Caswell or other suitable tank conditioner(?)
6. shop vacuum that can be set to blow
7. baggies
8. optional expandable rubber plug for fuel fill hole
9. 10 mm wrench (open-end helps) for dealing with sender unit
10. wire cutter (may be needed for sender unit)
11. plenty of shop rags
12. replacement O-rings for petcock gaskets
PROCEDURE IN DETAIL: 1. drain tank of all gas
2. remove petcocks
3. remove fuel gage float/sender unit
4. fabricate covers to cover petcock holes
5. remove gaskets from petcocks
6. use petcock gaskets with fabricated covers and install on tank
7. disconnect lead wires from sender unit (may have to cut and then reattach later)
8. use gasket from sender unit, install sender unit backwards on tank with float on the outside
9. pour chain into tank
10. pour gallon of acetone into tank
11. install leak proof cap (I suggest using an expandable rubber drain plug, but I just held the fuel cap down tight)
12. check for leaks
13. shake periodically, to remove rust and Kreem (keep in tank at least a day shake often enough to keep the Kreem damp prior to draining or it will re-solidify)
14. open one petcock hole and sender unit port and drain out the acetone saturated with Kreem and rust
15. remove chain - use a coathanger.
16. CAUTION acetone fumes are flammable and can ignite with the motor of a shop vacuum. Manually remove them.
17. reseal tank sender unit port and petcock holes
18. pour in 1/2 gallon of fresh acetone
19. shake often
20. remove one petcock cover
21. drain acetone into drip pan
22. replace petcock cover and gasket
23. filter the used acetone through a coffee filter into a mason jar (use the mason ring to hold filter)
24. pour in the filtered acetone (or use fresh)
25. add fresh if needed
26. shake periodically
27. repeat steps 20 to 25
28. remove petcock cover and drain tank contents
29. remove all other seals
30. use shop vac and hook it up for BLOWING.
31. Place hose over fuel filler hole and dry the inside of the tank very thoroughly (outside, of course)
32. Reseal petcock holes and sender unit port, but this time, use baggies between the tank and the gaskets to protect them from the resin. Note that I had to buy new O-rings anyway because my official Yamaha petcock gaskets were too deformed to seal after this process.
33. thoroughly mix the Caswell Tank epoxy (I used a drill attachment)
34. pour into the fuel filler hole and seal it.
35. rotate the tank, shake it, rotate it several minutes to cover all inside surfaces
36. continue for about 20 minutes or so (might depend on the temperature)
37. remove a petcock cover and drain excess epoxy
38. remove other petcock cover and sender unit
39. wipe off epoxy drips with acetone rag around open holes
40. let epoxy firm a little, install all screws with a drop of light machine oil, and then remove all screws to clear off threads, then let cure at least over night
41. Reassemble
That is, if you want to reseal it...

Jul 01, 2009 | Harley Davidson FLHTC - FLHTCI Electra...

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