Question about 2003 Honda CBR 600 F(4)i

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Wat is da order to tighten da nuts on da fuel pump of an 03 honda f4i ive done da star pattern many different ways. leaks everytime. got a new gasket and it still leaks Comments: Sep 30, 2009 - done it multiple times in a criss cross pattern. there is a certain order of which the nuts needs to be tightened first. someone gave me the order of it before and it worked the first time i tried it. Sep 30, 2009 - when i first got this bike i had to take the fuel pump out. i tried a dozen different criss cross patterns. none of them worked. i talked to an expert before who gave me the exact order to tighten them. it worked the first time. i had to yank the fuel pump again. i got a new gasket and still have the same problem with it leaking. i need the exact order of which nut gets tightened first. easiest way is give me the order starting with the nut right of where the wire comes of the fuel pump and go clockwise

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Hello there: here is a link that directs you to your service manual ok? hope that this will get you started good luck Michael Honda CBR 600 [Sitemap] - Page 2 - Honda Motorcycles ... ... a CBR F4i ? F3 running terribly bad..rich? LOWERING A 2003 HOBDA CBR F4I 600 ... My 1996 CBR 600 F3 I got for $850. Service-Maintenance-Repair Manual. fuel pump ...www.fireblades.org/forums/sitemap/f-11-p-2.html - Cached Honda CBR 600 [Sitemap] - Page 19 - Honda Motorcycles ... '01 600 F4i. 2003 600rr Full system vs. slip on. Tire Suggestions ... Troubleshooting my friend's F3 - should the fuel pump make noise? chain maintenance...www.fireblades.org/forums/sitemap/f-11-p-19.html - Cached

Posted on Sep 30, 2009

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Valve Cover Torque Specs


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Need to know how to replace a fuel pump


Here is what I looked up: Fuel Pump Removal & Installation To Remove:
  1. Remove the fuel tank.
  2. Disconnect the pressure transducer connector on the top rear comer of the fuel tank.
  3. Clean the area around the fuel pump mounting flange.
  4. Remove the bolts and remove the fuel pump.
CAUTION
The fuel pump must be handled carefully to avoid damage to the float arm and the filter.
Remove and discard the fuel pump mounting gasket.
To Install:
  1. Clean the fuel pump mounting flange and the fuel tank mounting surface.
  2. Install the fuel pump mounting gasket on the mounting flange.
  3. Position the fuel pump in the fuel tank. NOTE: Tighten fuel pump bolts in a star pattern.
  4. Install the bolts. Tighten to 10 Nm (89 in. lbs.).
  5. Connect the fuel pressure transducer.
  6. Install the fuel tank.
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Jul 05, 2010 | 2000 Mercury Grand Marquis

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How do I replace the fuel pump on a 1997 Isuzu Rodeo


The 1997 Isuzu pump is electronic and in the tank.
This method will not get it.

Anyone else done it?

My guess. Disconnect the battery,
disconnect the leads to the pump mounted on top of the fuel tank,
Disconnect the outlet and return lines from the pump,
Remove all mounting nuts on the top plate and lift the pump out of the tank.
Replace gasket and reverse the order to replace.

Apr 06, 2010 | 1997 Isuzu Rodeo

1 Answer

We have a Dodge Ram 50 1987 pickup and need to change the fuel pump. The engine states that it is a Mitsubishi 2.6 engine. When we have ordered the fuel pump for the truck, we received something different...


Sometimes the new fuel pump will look different than the new on but It'll work. If your not been involved in car repair in the past them your not working on a car to learn on. Your smart and can follow directions and have someone to help you (think) then you may be able to do the job. In order to remove the existing pump the valve cover needs to be removed. The push rod arm on the pump is quite long and is hard ti direct to the place the old one was in without the valve cover off as the old gasket is leaking anyway it's a good time to change the gasket and a good parts man selling the pump should say and you need this valve cover gasket to. the pump has to studs with nuts holding it on and the air cleaner the valve cover and anything in the way of getting it off needs to be removed too. once the nuts are removed from the pump the studs may have to be removed too in order to get enought room to twist the pump enought to get the long arm out of the head as it runs on the cam in the middle of the head and the head is quite wide. 166168360.jpg 1031338635.jpg 166168360.jpg 1031338635.jpg

Oct 20, 2009 | 1987 Dodge Ram 50

1 Answer

How long does it take to replace both fuel tanks?


2000 Chevrolet Corvette V8-5.7L VIN G

Fuel Pump: Service and Repair
REMOVAL PROCEDURE (LEFT OR RIGHT)
TOOLS REQUIRED
^ J 34730-1A Fuel Pressure Gauge
^ J 37088-A Tool Set, Fuel Line Quick Connect Separator
CAUTION: Refer to the Battery Disconnect Caution in Service Precautions.
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Relieve the fuel system pressure. Refer to the Fuel Pressure Relief Procedure.
CAUTION: Refer to Vehicle Lifting Caution in Service Precautions.
3. Raise the vehicle. Refer to Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle in General Information.
4. Remove the rear wheel and tire assembly.
5. Clean all of the fuel connections and the surrounding areas before disconnecting the fuel pipes in order to avoid possible contamination of the
fuel system.
6. Drain the fuel tanks. Refer to Fuel Tank Draining Procedure.
7. Remove the fuel tank shield.
8. Mark or identify each fuel pipe in order to aid in installing the pipes in their original positions.
9. Disconnect the quick-connect fittings from the fuel sender.
10. Cap all of the fuel pipes.
11. Disconnect the fuel sender electrical connector.
12. Remove the fuel tank strap.
13. Support the fuel tank.
14. Remove the fuel sender attaching bolts. Remove previously installed "break-away head" service bolts using a 5/16 inch open end wrench.
15. Discard the fuel sender attaching bolts.
16. Remove the float arm retaining clip and the float arm (left fuel sender only).
17. Carefully remove the fuel sender with the gasket.
18. Discard the fuel sender gasket.
19. Clean the gasket sealing surfaces.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE (RIGHT)
CAUTION: In order to reduce the risk of fire and personal injury that may result from a fuel leak, always replace the fuel sender gasket
and the fuel sender attaching bolts when reinstalling the fuel sender assembly.
1. Install a new fuel sender gasket on the fuel sender.
2. Fold the long strainer in half over itself and hold the strainer in this position.
3. Pinch both strainers upward toward each other.
IMPORTANT: Do not bend or twist the float arm.
4. Insert the float arm through the fuel tank opening followed by the folded strainers.
5. Release the strainers once the strainers are in the fuel tank. The strainers will spring back to their full position.
6. Continue inserting the fuel sender through the fuel tank opening. It may be necessary to rotate the fuel sender in order to facilitate the installation.
6.1. Look through the fuel tank opening to ensure that the long strainer is visible.
6.2. If the strainer is not visible, rotate the fuel sender clockwise and counterclockwise about 90 degrees. Rotating the fuel sender will free up
the strainer. The strainer should become visible at the tank opening.
7. Align the fuel sender gasket tab (2) with the fuel sender cover mark (1).
8. Align the fuel sender cover mark (1) with the fuel tank mark.
NOTE: Refer to the Fastener Notice in Service Precautions.
9. Hand tighten the new "break-away head" fuel sender attaching bolts until finger tight.
IMPORTANT: The upper hex head portion of the fuel sender attaching bolts is designed to shear off of the lower section of the bolt when the
proper torque is reached. Do not tighten the bolts after the bolt heads have sheared off. A torque wrench or other special tools are not required. Do
not use thread locking or other types of sealers or lubricants when installing these bolts and gasket.
10. Tighten the new "break-away head" fuel sender assembly attaching bolts in sequence until the upper hex head portion of the bolts shear off of the
lower section.
11. Connect the fuel sender fuel feed pipe (1) (jet pump to left tank) and the fuel feed rear crossover pipe (2) (left tank to jet pump).
12. Connect the fuel sender electrical connector.
13. Install the fuel tank strap (3).
14. Install the fuel tank strap bolts (1,2,4).
Tighten
14.1.Tighten the bolt (2) to 25 N.m (18 lb ft).
14.2.Tighten the bolt (1) to 25 N.m (18 lb ft).
14.3.Tighten the remaining bolts (4) to 25 N.m (18 lb ft).
15. Install the fuel tank shield (1).
16. Install the fuel tank shield mount bolt (2).
17. Install the fuel tank shield mount nut (3).
Tighten
^ Tighten the fuel tank shield mount bolt to 25 N.m (18 lb ft).
^ Tighten the fuel tank shield mount nut to 12 N.m (106 lb in).
18. Install the rear wheel and tire assembly.
19. Lower the vehicle.
20. Refill the fuel system.
21. Install the fuel filler cap.
22. Connect the negative battery cable.
23. Inspect for leaks.
23.1.Turn the ignition switch ON for 2 seconds.
23.2.Turn the ignition switch OFF for 10 seconds.
23.3.Turn the ignition switch ON.
23.4.Inspect for fuel leaks.
24. Program the transmitters. Refer to Transmitter Programming/Synchronization in Keyless Entry.
25. Perform the idle learn procedure. Refer to PCM Idle Learn Procedure.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE (LEFT)
IMPORTANT: Always install a new fuel pump strainer before reinstalling the left fuel sender assembly. A fuel pump strainer that has been
exposed to fuel will not unfold in the fuel tank and may block full travel of the float arm.
1. Install a new fuel pump strainer in the same position as noted during disassembly. Push on the outer edge of the strainer ferrule until the strainer
is fully seated.
CAUTION: In order to reduce the risk of fire and personal injury that may result from a fuel leak, always replace the fuel sender gasket
and the fuel sender attaching bolts when reinstalling the fuel sender assembly.
2. Install a new fuel sender gasket on the fuel sender.
3. Fold the strainer three times so that the amount of space occupied by the strainer is about equivalent to the diameter of the fuel sender reservoir.
3.1. Fold the long side of the strainer over (1 over 2).
3.2. Fold 3 over 4 and hold the strainer in the folded position.
4. Insert the fuel sender through the fuel tank opening.
5. Release the strainer once the strainer is in the fuel tank. The strainer will spring back to its full position.
6. Continue inserting the fuel sender through the fuel tank opening. It may be necessary to rotate the fuel sender in order to facilitate the installation.
6.1. Look through the fuel tank opening to ensure that the long side of the strainer is visible.
6.2. If the strainer is not visible, rotate the fuel sender clockwise and counterclockwise about 90 degrees. Rotating the fuel sender will free up
the strainer. The strainer should become visible at the tank opening.
IMPORTANT: Do not bend or twist the float arm.
7. Insert the float and the float arm into the fuel tank opening.
8. Install the float arm retaining clip.
9. Align the fuel sender gasket tab (1) with the fuel sender cover mark (2).
10. Align the fuel sender cover mark (2) with the fuel tank mark.
NOTE: Refer to the Fastener Notice in Service Precautions.
11. Hand tighten the new "break-away head" fuel sender attaching bolts until finger tight.
IMPORTANT: The upper hex head portion of the fuel sender attaching bolts is designed to shear off of the lower section of the bolt when the
proper torque is reached. Do not tighten the bolts after the bolt heads have sheared off. A torque wrench or other special tools are not required. Do
not use thread locking or other types of sealers or lubricants when installing these bolts and gasket.
12. Tighten the new "break-away head" fuel sender assembly attaching bolts in sequence until the upper hex head portion of the bolts shear off of the
lower section.
13. Connect the fuel sender fuel feed pipe (1) (jet pump to left tank), the fuel return rear pipe (2), and the fuel feed rear pipe (3).
14. Connect the fuel sender electrical connector.
15. Install the fuel tank strap (3).
16. Install the fuel tank strap bolts (1,2,4).
Tighten
16.1.Tighten the bolt (2) to 25 N.m (18 lb ft).
16.2.Tighten the bolt (1) to 25 N.m (18 lb ft).
16.3.Tighten the remaining bolts (4) to 25 N.m (18 lb ft).
17. Install the fuel tank shield (3).
18. Install the fuel tank shield mount bolt (1).
19. Install the fuel tank shield mount nut (2).
Tighten
^ Tighten the fuel tank shield mount bolt to 25 N.m (18 lb ft).
^ Tighten the fuel tank shield mount nut to 12 N.m (106 lb in).
20. Install the rear wheel and tire assembly.
21. Lower the vehicle.
22. Refill the fuel system.
23. Install the fuel filler cap.
24. Connect the negative battery cable.
25. Inspect for leaks.
25.1.Turn the ignition switch ON for 2 seconds.
25.2.Turn the ignition switch OFF for 10 seconds.
25.3.Turn the ignition switch ON.
25.4.Inspect for fuel leaks.
26. Program the transmitters. Refer to Transmitter Programming/Synchronization in Keyless Entry.
27. Perform the idle learn procedure. Refer to PCM Idle Learn Procedure.

Jul 06, 2009 | 2000 Chevrolet Corvette

1 Answer

Removal and installation of the water pump


3.0L or 3.8L engine?

please rate as fixed if this solves your issue.

Section 03-01B: Engine, 3.8L 1996 Windstar Workshop Manual
IN-VEHICLE SERVICE Water Pump SPECIAL SERVICE TOOL(S) REQUIRED Description Tool Number Fuel Line Disconnect Tool Set T90T-9550-S
Removal
  1. Drain engine cooling system. Refer to Section 03-03 .
  1. Loosen drive belt tensioner (6B209) and remove drive belt (8620). Refer to Section 03-05 .
  1. Raise vehicle on hoist. Refer to Section 00-02 .
  1. Disconnect lower radiator hose (8286) from radiator lower hose tube (8291) and radiator (8005).
  1. Disconnect radiator lower hose tube from water pump (8501).
  1. Remove lower nut on both front engine support insulators (6038).
  1. Lower vehicle.
  1. Disconnect battery ground cable (14301). Refer to Section 14-01 .
  1. Remove generator (GEN) (10346) from power steering pump support (3C511).
  1. Position drain pan and disconnect power steering pressure line from power steering pump (3A674) using Fuel Line Disconnect Tool Set T90T-9550-S.
  1. Remove power steering reservoir filler cap.
  1. stw~us~en~file=ani_caut.gif~gen~ref.gif CAUTION: If using a prying device to assist in water pump removal, be careful not to damage the mating surfaces.
    Disconnect water bypass hose (8597) and oil cooler hose (6B850) from heater water outlet tube (18663).
  1. Remove retaining bolts and disconnect heater water outlet tube from water pump.
  1. Remove A/C bracket brace.
  1. Attach engine lifting eye to left-hand (front) exhaust manifold (9430).
  1. Attach lifting equipment to engine lifting eye and raise front of engine approximately 51 mm (2.0 inches) to provide necessary clearance for water pump removal.
  1. Remove water pump pulley retaining bolts and water pump pulley (8509).
  1. Remove drive belt tensioner pulley retaining bolt and drive belt tensioner pulley (6B217) from power steering pump support.
  1. Remove power steering pump support retaining bolts and nut. Place power steering pump and support assembly aside in a position to prevent fluid leakage.
  1. Remove water pump retaining bolts and nuts and water pump. Discard used water pump housing gasket (8507).
Installation
  1. NOTE: Lightly oil all bolt and stud bolt threads before installation except those specifying special sealant.

    Clean gasket surfaces on water pump and engine front cover (6019).
  1. NOTE: The threads of the No. 1 engine front cover retaining stud must be coated with Pipe Sealant with Teflon® D8AZ-19554-A or equivalent meeting Ford specification WSK-M2G350-A2 before installing.

    NOTE: Gasket and Trim Adhesive D7AZ-19B508-B or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESE-M2G52-A is recommended to hold the water pump housing gasket in position.

    Position a new water pump housing gasket on water pump housing sealing surface.
  1. Position water pump on the engine front cover. Install retaining bolts.
  1. Position power steering pump support and install retaining nuts and bolts. Tighten bolts and nuts to 40-55 Nm (30-40 lb-ft).
  1. Install drive belt tensioner pulley and retaining bolt. Tighten bolt to 70-95 Nm (52-70 lb-ft).
  1. Install A/C bracket brace.
  1. Position water pump pulley on water pump hub and install retaining bolts. Tighten bolts to 8.0-11.5 Nm (71-101 lb-in).
  1. Lower engine and disconnect lifting equipment from lifting eye.
  1. Remove lifting eye from exhaust manifold.
  1. Connect heater water outlet tube to water pump and install retaining bolts. Tighten bolts to 8-11.5 Nm (71-101 lb-in).
  1. Connect water bypass hose and oil cooler hose to heater water outlet tube. Tighten clamps securely.
  1. Connect power steering pressure line to power steering pump fitting.
  1. Install power steering reservoir filler cap.
  1. Install generator to power steering pump support. Refer to Section 14-02 .
  1. Connect battery ground cable. Refer to Section 14-01 .
  1. Raise vehicle on hoist. Refer to Section 00-02 .
  1. Install lower nut on front engine support insulators and tighten retaining nut to 88-119 Nm (65-87 lb-ft). Install lower nut of rear engine support insulator and tighten to 77-104 Nm (56-76 lb-ft).
  1. Connect radiator lower hose tube to water pump. Install retaining bolt and tighten securely.
  1. Connect lower radiator hose to radiator lower hose tube and radiator. Position hose clamps securely. Refer to Section 03-03 .
  1. Lower vehicle.
  1. Position drive belt over drive belt tensioner and release drive belt tensioner. Refer to Section 03-05 .
  1. stw~us~en~file=ani_caut.gif~gen~ref.gif CAUTION: This engine has aluminum cylinder heads (6049) and requires a special corrosion inhibiting coolant to avoid cooling system damage. Refer to Section 03-03 for the coolant specifications.
    Fill and bleed cooling system with specified coolant.
  1. Fill power steering pump reservoir with specified fluid.
  1. Start engine and check for coolant and power steering fluid leaks. Service as necessary.


    Water Pump
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Apr 13, 2009 | 1996 Ford Windstar

5 Answers

Waring blender - new blade


I just figured it out. The key is you need to think in terms of keeping the blades and the large washers separate. Here's what you do.
Thread the blade through the glass and use the white rubber gaskets against the glass and the stainless gaskets against the hardware. Then tighten the whole enchilada to the blender with the main nut (that goes on the bottom outside of the blender). Then once that's nice and tight tighten the flange that catches the blender teeth to the remaining portion of the protruding threads. Make sure you use the copper colored gasket first then the stainless washer then the stainless flange. Tighten that real good and you should be good to go.
To check if you've done it right spin the flange. If the blades spin independent of everything else you're good to blend away!

Feb 23, 2008 | Blenders

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