Question about 2003 kawasaki KDX 220 R

2 Answers

I cant get the big nut to loosen once the springs are removed.

How do I stop the clutch from turning to get the nut to loosen up once the clutch cover is off and the springs have been removed?

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2 Answers

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  • Master
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Make your life easy, purchase an impact driver. This tool will allow you to remove stubborn screws, bolts and nuts with just the strike of a hammer. When re-assembling the engine, the driver will let you put the screws on tight. Mine is 45 years old and just as good as new. It is the most used tool in my shop.

If unable to get a driver, put the bike in first gear and have someone step on the rear brake pedal. Could you take a moment to rate my answer? Thanks!

Posted on Sep 29, 2009

  • tombones Sep 29, 2009

    You did unbend the retainer washer away from the nut didn't you? Most bikes have a thin washer that one edge bends over to a flat side of the nut. This guarantees the nut will not come loose.

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  • kawasaki Master
  • 2,050 Answers

Use an impact gun. (Air or electric will work) They make a special tool to hold it from turning if you want to buy it. Be aware that jamming something in it to stop it from turning may break the basket.

Posted on Sep 29, 2009

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I'm confuse a bit but I'll try to help. You say you're having problems with the belt drive and getting the clutch cover side off.

The heading on this post says you have a '93 XLH Sporty. The final drive belt is on the opposite side of clutch on a Sporty. You didn't mention what type of problem you were having with the final drive belt so I'll try to help you with getting the clutch cover off.

To get the primary cover off your Sporty, you've got to take the nut off the clutch adjuster rod. There should be two round access covers on your primary cover. The one in the middle top is for checking the tension on the primary chain and adding oil. The one at the rear in the middle of the large round place in the cover is the one you need to remove. Under the cover, there will be a spring and a lockplate. The lockplate will look kind of like a nut but won't have any threads in it. Remove this lockplate. Now, you'll see a nut with a screw in it. Turn this screw clockwise until you can remove the nut.

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1 Answer

Loose slack in my clutch cable in my 08 buell blast


Your clutch needs to be adjusted. Before you adjust it at the lever you must adjust the clutch itself.

On the primary cover is the clutch inspection cover just behind the driver footpeg bracket. Unfortunately to get to it you must remove the Y-bracket and it's a PITA. The nuts that hold it are in a tight space under the seat just below the base of the fuel tank. Before you remove the bracket completely, just loosen the nuts as far as you can without removing them. You may have enough play to pull the bracket out of the way of the clutch inspection cover.

3 allen head screws hold the inspection cover in place. Be careful not to damage the paper gasket. You should be able to reuse it but to be safe, get yourself an extra before performing the adjustment. It's cheap insurance.

With the cover off you will be able to see the face of the clutch pack. In the center is a stamped steel nut held in place with a spring. It is a type of lock nut that will keep the clutch from readjusting itself. Simply pull this out (nut & spring) and set it aside.

In the center you will now see a shaft with a slot in it. This is where you will make the clutch adjustment. Using a regular screw driver simply turn the shaft clockwise until it firmly seats. Do not crank it down hard! Snug it down once, back it out a turn, then snug it down again. Once snugged down, back it out only 1/4 turn.

Replace the lock nut and spring being careful not to tighten or loosen the adjustment you made any more than needed to get the nut to seat inside the clutch. Once the cover is in place the spring will press against the lock nut keeping it secured.

Make sure where the gasket sits is clean before replacing the gasket and inspection cover. Do nut over tighten the 3 screws that hold the cover. It is only aluminum that they are threading into.

Replace/tighten the Y-bracket for the pegs back into place. If you do not have small hands it might be a good idea to have a small-handed person available to assist you in getting the nuts back on the bracket bolts and hand tightened as much as possible for you.

Now that the clutchis adjusted, you can make adjustments to the cable itself to get the free play out of the clutch lever. The cable adjustment is made at the adjuster located roughly halfway between the lever and the bottom of the bike. It's covered by a rubber boot that keeps out dirt and moisture. Carefully pull the boot to expose the adjustment nuts. The clutch lever is considered properly adjusted when there is 1mm of play between the lever and where it hits the stop near the pivot bolt.

It's really an easy job but don't try to adjust it only at the cable. Adjusting the clutch pack itself it really a breeze and even your shifting should be a little smoother. Good luck! =)

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