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could be the clutch locked or the gear case... have a couple of strong friends ROCK it back and forth while you push the lever back to neutral..... dont push the clutch in while this is happening worth a shot!!
Well there are a couple ways, One is push the start button within 10 sec. push the horn button twice. This should do it, but if it is a different Joystick then try, push the button to start then hold the Joystick forward until it beeps, then hold the joystick knob back until it beeps and then it should be unlocked. Strege Mobility
Sounds like your clutch has locked up. Most likely the oil that was in your clutch has gummed up and locked the plates together. Pull the clutch in and try rolling the bike back and forth. If the back wheel spins freely then it may be another issue. If it doesn't move try pushing it forward and back either by sitting on it or by standing astride it. If wheel free's up then you should be able to select gears.
Think you have simply frozen your piston from lack of proper fuel and 2 stroke oul mixture. Bike will move in neutral and with the clutch in, just won't kick or bumpstart ! Time for a top end rebuild my friend...good luck !
Just check that the dryer vent out the back hasn't been pushed into the machine. Sometimes when the dryer is pushed against a wall the vent can be pushed back into the machine somewhat, which will in turn push the blower wheel housing forward and deform it slightly, causing the blower wheel to rub on the housing.
Slave cylinder is located on the side of the transmission behind the main flywheel housing and points towards the engine. Follow the clutch pipe down from the master cylinder. The slave is about 12cm long by 4cm in diameter with a bleed nipple on the top. You may want to change the fluid after 8 years! What can happen if the car has not been moved is that the clutch disc becomes bonded to the flywheel by corrosion, exactly in the same way the brake pads can seize the rotors. Make sure the wheels are free to rotate. Lift a rear wheel clear of the ground and chock the front wheels, as you start the car the differential will transfer the power to the lifted wheel. With the foot hard on the clutch take the engine up to about 2000rpm, hold the accelerator at that speed and pull the hand brake on and off slowly. With luck the snatch of the handbrake biting make break loose the clutch plate. You will know when it breaks free as the engine will rev freely. When you do get it free, slip the clutch for a while to scrape clean the friction plate on the flywheel. Likewise when the car is moving ride the brakes to polish the rotors of corrosion.
To fold it; Lock the wheels to stop them flapping by pressing down on the catch at the front of the wheels. Push the canopy forward, kick the middle of the bottom brace upwards, then pull both cuffs at the sides of the handlebar up towards you to release the locking mechanism. Then push the handle bar down and together. It folds down onto the wheels and pulls the wheels together.
To recline the back pull upwards on the handle behind the childs shoulders. Then push the back down.
I checked Searspartsdirect.com for that model number and they listed that number, but with an extra 0 at the right end. I couldn't find a belt release lever illustrated anywhere like that on my old Craftsman belt sander. On mine, you just flipped the lever either forward or back to release and tighten the belt. (still works great) There is a spring that pushes the front roller assembly forward when the lever is operated.
On my stroller there is a little plastic piece just above the front wheels. If you push it to the left it will lock the wheels. Push it back to the right to unlock the wheels. You may have to push a little hard to move it.