Question about 2005 kawasaki ZRX 1200 R

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Air box and crank case fuel flooding problem happened before, thinking it was stuck or worn float needles; I installed 2 Carb float needles left side facing rear of carbs , all larger main jets, all slide needles. Plugged vacuum hoses going to pollution control. Adjusted air screws accordingly. Bike ran very strong and crisp, for about 2 or 3 10 mile rides. Bike sat for about a month. When I started bike it idled poorly, gas drain hose filled quickly and oil inspection window indicated crankcase full of fuel again. when I pulled tank petcock did not leak any fuel. I am thinking of re connecting vacuum hose and draining carbs, and give it one more chance before pulling carbs again, yes I use Stabil. Any suggestions will be appreciated!

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Well there only one way the fuel can get into the crankcase and that's from the fuel tank. The petcock must be draining and the float needles are not stopping the fuel flow. Do you have a prime position on the petcock? If so do not run the bike in the position. Try topping the tank off with gas and letting it sit for a while and see is the gas has gone down and then check the crankcase and see if there's fuel in it again. i still say its got to be your petcock.

Posted on Sep 29, 2009

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Well heck lol i had same problem with my 400 ex it was the carb the float was sticking over flowing carb it went in crank case and breather box need clean the carbs maybe change the float or neadle valve

Posted on Oct 14, 2009

  • enlighten210
    enlighten210 Nov 26, 2015

    Allen has it right! ;). The inlet needle isn't seating allowing fuel to go through carbs filling crank. U may have put the floats in upside down during replacement or something similar . I suggest reinspection of the work



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99 Polaris 500 xc sp flooding, cleaned carbs and checked floats and main jets. reinstall carbs and run. next day fill gas tank approx. 12 gallons. next morning motor completely flooding gas tank lost

it sounds like it is still you needle and seats are worn or your float has a hole in it just check the float and see if it has fuel inside it ,but i say a new set of needle and seats and bowl gaskets cheers

Jan 27, 2015 | Winter Sports

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Flooding xj900

Hi I had the same problem after rebuilding my CB900 carbies a few years back.

The floats hang down so far in the carb that they actually get stuck down even when the fuel flows in after a rebuild.

Turn the fuel on and tap the bowls with the handle of a screw driver (plastic) I used a long shaft screw driver that way you can pretty much get all of them from one side.

This light tapping jults the floats and it allows them to pop up with the pressure of the full bowls if helps with them moving.

Hope this helps.

Oct 06, 2014 | 1990 Yamaha XJ 900 F

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Got petral coming out the left hand pipe when i kick it up

More than likely, it's going to be a stuck float on the left carburetor, along with a fouled left spark plug. Too much un-metered fuel just pouring into that cylinder will cause it to run very poorly on that side if it runs at all. Generally it will foul the plug, causing it not to spark.

Resolution: Pull the plug out. Turn the fuel off. Place a rag over the spark plug hole. Start the engine and rev it up a couple of times to expel all of the built up fuel in the left side. Run it until you run the carbs dry. Remove the rag, and install a new spark plug in the left side. Remove the left carb, and remove the float bowl and check to make sure the main jet is still screwed in and snug. Now check for any sticking of the floats when holding the carb upright. Floats should move without resistance up and down. Attach a small piece of tubing that fits the fuel line connection on that carb, Holding it upright again blow through it as you raise and lower the floats. You should hear the air going through when the float is down, and stops when you raise the float. If this is not the case then the needle valve that stops the fuel when the float is up, is worn or damaged and gummed up. Set the carb on your bench and remove the pivot pin holding the floats in place, and gently lift them out. In most cases, there is a tiny little clip that connects to the float to the needle valve. carefully remove the float and the attached needle valve. Inspect the needle valve. the rubber cone tip should be clean and have n damage, or rings of wear on it at all. With the needle valve removed, blow through the tubing again to blow out an debris that may be in the carb housing. If the neelde valve is gummed up or sticky in anyway, spray it with carburetor clearer. Spray some into the brass needle valve seat in the carb and then through the opening too. This will remove any gummy or stick fuel residue in there. Spray inside the float bowl as well. this whole area must be spotlessly clean before reassemble. If there is ANY visible wear on the rubber tip of the needle valve, it must be replaced. Since this is an Indian model ( Japanese models only ran from 1973-1975), you will need to source the parts from India.

Once the carb is cleaned, repaired, and reassembled, retest it with the tubing again, and blow through it with the carb in it's normal upright position. Air should go through easily. Turn the carb upside down, and blow again. No air should go through at all. If this is the case, the carb is ready to be reinstalled on the engine.

Once installed turn the gas on and start the bike. There may still be some residule extra fuel in the crank case which will make it run rich on that side for a short time.

I hope this solves the problem for you.

Jun 18, 2014 | 1986 Yamaha RD 350

2 Answers

Fuil in air box getting in oil dr200se year 2005 have carb soaking now olny 500 miles cant be worn may be the dry rot o ring in pet **** so far all the diaframs good in pet **** and diafram in top of...

What you are dealing with is a vacuum petcock with a bad vacuum diaphragm , in this case fuel is bypassing the petcock via the vacuum line and filling the engine (oil) with gasoline.
If you have a standard petcock that is leaking (not shutting off properly) or just left in the on position a stuck float needle will also fill your engine (oil) with gasoline. This can happen with a clean carburetor and a good float needle. It just sticks and you have to change your oil. If you have the kind of fuel petcock that allows you to turn it off when not in use , always turn off your gas when not riding.
You will have to change your oil if it is fouled with gasoline. I suspect a vacuum operated petcock is at fault. With standard petcocks I have seen new motorcycles in perfect order stick a float needle ( Kei Hin Carburetors ) and fill there engines and air boxes with gas/oil mix. On vacuum petcocks the diaphragm that shuts off the fuel flow is usually leaking and at fault.

Jan 01, 2011 | 2001 Suzuki DR 200 SE

2 Answers

I have fuel pouring out my air bleed valve of my left carb barrel and my inner vent solenoid valve on my right carb barrel. At one time my car was flooding out I found one of my vacuum lines was blocked,...

This is usually caused by a stuck float valve. Tap on the carb with a small hammer or screwdriver at the fuel inlet area and the valve may reseat. I usually recommend rebuilding the carb after this happens to prevent a reoccurrence.

Oct 24, 2010 | 1985 Honda Prelude

1 Answer

Gasoline in the crankcase starts and runs then within a few seconds gasoline pours out of the air cleaner housing. 200 tw Yamaha

Check if float chamber needle closes correctly in carb. I had a worn needle, that was not closing. When float chamber was full, fuel still flows, and its level reached the air cleaner.
additional advise 1.: check the air cleanerfoam. The fuel probabaly damaged it.
additional advise 2.: When you`ll install new needle, the needle housing tube has sharp edge of the opening. I would recommend to chamfer it, it could scratch the new needle (happened in my case :-((

May 11, 2010 | 2001 Yamaha TW 200

2 Answers

I have a sears lawnmower that was flooded recently. I bought a tune up kit and installed it. I changed the gas and oil also. when I poured in the gas it all came out the air filter. What should I check...

carburator float is stuck in the open position allowing fuel to continiously run / drain out the fuel tank into the carb and then overflow into the venturi of the carb into the engine and out the air filter. Bottom line the carb needs to be disassembled cleaned and rebuilt

Sep 20, 2009 | Craftsman Garden

3 Answers

I just had the carburetor cleaned out and now the carbs keep flooding up with gas and the engine keeps shuting off

The float may be adjusted to high allowing to much fuel to be in carb. inturn fuel fouling your spark plugs. Also check to make sure the needle and seat are sealing as to stop the fuel flow.One other thing possible is the float is no longer floating,(leaks if brass or saturated if not brass) This can be check by just seeing if the float still floats or by shakeing the brass to see if you hear or feel fuel inside.
The float level needs to be set perfectly. I hope this info helps.

Aug 28, 2009 | Yamaha YZF 600 R thunder cat Motorcycles

1 Answer

Briggs Flo Jet carb floods and puts gas into the crankcase

This is a common problem. The needle and seat are prone to being held open from debris, old fuel (these days it only takes a month for fuel to start to go bad) and poor mower design. The weight of the fuel from the tank can be enough to overpower the float system with just the slightest "gumming" of the needle seat. Also, if it's equipped with an electrically powered valve on the bottom of the float bowl, this unit can outright fail, get gummed up a bit, or the electrical system have a problem and power is getting to this unit while switched off, leaving it open thus passing fuel. Most likely, replacing the needle and seat, giving the carb a good cleaning will solve your problem, however if there is damage to the seat from age or debris, just install a 2 dollar in line shut off valve available at most retailers. Then just turn the fuel on and off manually. Cheap fix. 2. Drain the oil from the engine, refill with new oil and just a oz. of atf (automatic trans fluid). Crank the engine with plug wire disconnected for 30 sec or so, then connect the plug wire. Start the engine, but only let it run near idle for a minute or so. Drain again, letting the crankcase "air out" with all plugs\dipstick removed. Remaining fuel will evaporate. Refill and your off and cutting......The ATF is a detergent of a type and will help to collect the fuel from the surfaces inside the engine. It's important to note the fuel will have washed any lubrication properties from the oil, and damage to the journals and other surfaces can happen if the engine is run too long. Usually following the above procedure will limit damage and the engine should be good for many more seasons. Good luck! Papa

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