Engine stalls when wheelied or if I double clutch. Any ideas

It's called a clutch pack, friction disks and metal plates, be careful when taking apart and put the disks back in the EXACT same way you removed them, if you don't you could look at early clutch failure again...oh and FYI, while you're in there you may want to inquire to your local bike parts store about the possibility of putting a hi volume oil pump on your bike...if you're riding a lot of wheelies, you're starving your engine of oil every time it's frontend is in the air....and 600 gxsr's have a great reputation for blowing their engines and transmissions because they're being beat on.

problem would seem to be in the running of engine ,when was it last serviced ,old plugs , air filter etc will affect engine idle speed which is why its stalling when dipping clutch

sounds like total lost of engine power, or the brakes are frozen in ice.
if you can push car by and with brakes off , is the engine bad.
the clutch is not bad, if you stall any engine.
so what engine,, they use many on Acura's
cant fix the engine or know EFI with out that fact.
Generic.
lost compression on any or all cylinders.
bad fueling. (lost fuel pressure)
its most likely not spark if it idles nice, but doing the 60k tuneup
is real good idea now that it dont run ,now.

old sparks can work with lose speed then under load misfire.

Instructions

1. Power Wheelies
   • 1 Stand above the motorcycle with it running in neutral at the starting line of the track or one end of a long practice area. Pull in the clutch and shift the motorcycle into first gear.
     
   • 2 Begin rolling forward by rolling on the throttle smoothly and slowly letting out the clutch. When you are at a speed that is comfortable enough to put both feet on the pegs, lean forward on the bike and roll the throttle back quickly. Make this motion as fluid as possible so as not to overdo the wheelie. The front of the motorcycle will rise off the ground.
     
   • 3 Rev the motorcycle all the way to the red-line in first gear to pull the front of the motorcycle up into the air. This will not be a high or long wheelie, but is a great starting point. When you hit the red-line, pull in the clutch and shift to second. The front end will fall back down. Do not, for any reason, activate the front brake, while the front wheel is in the air, as this will cause the bike to crash upon contacting the pavement.
     
   Clutching Up
   • 4 Begin riding at a moderate pace in second or third gear. Be sure that you have plenty of space in front of you before beginning the execution of a "Clutch Up"
     
   • 5 Pull in the clutch as if to shift to the next gear but do not press the shift lever. Instead, rev the motorcycle by rolling back on the throttle smoothly and quickly. Let go of the clutch quickly (but as smoothly as possible) and lean forward to offset the power of the motorcycle.
     
   • 6 Repeat this maneuver multiple times to get comfortable with the motions. The front of the motorcycle may hop only slightly until you figure out the right amount of throttle and clutch to give the engine. Remember to never hit the front brake with the wheel in the air.
     
   • 7 Perform a proper wheelie by pulling in the clutch, revving the engine, leaning forward slightly and then dropping the clutch. Be sure to cover the rear brake with your right foot as it will keep the motorcycle from flipping if you give it too much gas.
     
   • 8 Hold the throttle at a steady position to keep the front wheel in the air. Bring the front wheel back down by pulling in the clutch or pressing softly on the rear brake.
     

This problem affects all bikes the reason the bike stalls out when idling low or when the clutch is pulled in is because of Fuel/Air/Combustion ....

Wrong reasons

1. If it was the spark plugs the bike would run rough in all gears all the time

2. IF it was Fuel pump you would notice poor performance in all gears and sometimes the bike will not start depending if the pump is punched.

3. GUYS! It's not the kick stand, I see this answer all the time (makes me laugh)

4. It is not sensor issue ether because well if sensor is bad whole thing will not work

5. It is not the clutch cable, because the stall happens then clutch is engaged

SOLUTION

Throttle bodies / VALVES need to be adjusted and synchronized (BY Professional) Do not attempt to do yourself involves opening cam cover and messing with Springs/Valves

Explained what is happening inside your engine/heads

---- Your bike is so many years old and has say 20,000km on it...depending how hard the bike has been ridden in its life this may have to be done sooner... Your Valve operates on Rockers and Springs inside the Cylinder Head... Over time the springs become less springy this requires Shimming of sprigs or if you are lucky (price) simple screw adjustment... As you ride the valves are not closing all the way, you do not feel this because you are traveling at high enough RPM to keep the engine going ....as soon as you engage the clutch it Revs down to 1750RPM, and now that the Valves are not closed properly the combustion stops happening...Simply put your engine chokes its self out

MAJOR SIMPTOMS

1 BACK FIRE OF EXAUST (WHILE IN HI RPM) Sounds cool but not good for engine

2 CLICKING IN ENGINE - Almost sounds Valves are running with no oil (listen close you will hear)

3 NO TORQUE/HORSE POWER- When in good shape power wheelie is achievable at 5000-6000 RPM (on a 600cc)

This must be done for the following

Yamaha YZF R6 - 24,000km

Honda, Suzuki, Kawasaki ----Not sure (I know for fact it's less 16,000ish)

From the sounds of your riding style (wheelies, etc.) you have burnt out the clutch.
No matter how much fun you think it is, Yamaha never designed them to be a toy to do wheelies. It is a sportsbike designed to go round corners fast.
The only silver lining is, hopefully the cost of replacing the clutch will stop you riding like a fool in future.

Hello, wheelies mm not good for your gearbox or clutch, 1st off is the gearbox working OK, does it jump out of 2nd gear under hard acceleration? then we can move on from this point,
Ian

If the plates look burned... you need to replace them. Have you been slipping your clutch overmuch? Or clutching up into wheelies? You'll also need to check to see if the metal discs have either warped or blued. [i]Best done by a shop.[/b]

the clutch can be slipping sometimes when u are using full-synthetic oil. A very experienced technician from Suzuki told it to me. I don't know other reasons. Greetings

Wheelie MONSTER With bike completely stock wheelies are easy. With full DP Termi system and stock gearing it will lift the front on power even in 2nd gear. With 14/42 gearing it will flip over in first if you just whack the throttle open WFO in first. Power wheelies in 2nd & 3rd no problem. The 998 Testra motor is significantly more powerful than the S4. All the above wheelies are all throttle only no clutching or yanking required. Mine is a Beast,,