Question about 1991 Honda CBR 600 F(2)M

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I have a cbr600 fm and trying to fit a new cam chain tensioner and gasket but the gasket has a groove in one side -does this go to the engine or tensioner side

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Not too big of a deal but is designed to go toward the tensioner side.

Posted on Oct 03, 2009

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Timing chain tensioner


Hi, Jaime for this situation I would call my local dealer or reputable shop's service/parts department and inquire about any possible quick fix, answers, or parts inquiry. If necessary transport your vehicle to the dealer or shop and have a professional technician take it for a test drive, if it is in running condition, and give you a written estimate of repairs and answer any specific questions you may have about your issue. For more information about your issue please visit the website below. Good luck and have a nice day.
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Sep 07, 2013 | Bajaj Motorcycles

1 Answer

Setting of timing chains


Get Ford timing tool kit, part = otc-6488 (For about $119 USD on eBay)

4 timing chains (3 front including the optional balance shaft chain + 1 back)

2 cam guides (1 front + 1 back)

2 oil tensioners (1 front + 1 back)

1 jackshaft tensioner (1 front)

1 jackshaft guide/cassette (1 front)

1 balance shaft tensioner (1 front) (will probably be ok, so dont replace it)

1 balance shaft guide (1 front) (will probably be ok, so dont replace it)

new sprockets + bolts + gaskets etc.

new spark plugs + throttle body cleaner + lithium grease spray + oil change

head gaskets


some of these parts (the front stuff) can be obtained as a primary timing chain rattle noise kit Part# = 2u3e-6d256-** ab for 4*4 & bb for 2*4.

The kits also have later part numbers for us$ 76 @ http://www.fordpartsonline.com


My parts order (without the balance shaft stuff) was:

$76.04 KIT-TENSIONER TIMING 2u3e-6d256-ab

$47.93 Engine, Camshaft and timing, Timing chain, TIMING CHAIN, Explorer, Mountaineer, Rear - 4.0L SOHC - 4.0L SOHC

$57.36 Engine, Camshaft and timing, Chain guide, CHAIN GUIDE, Explorer, Mountaineer, Jackshaft To Cam - 4.0L SOHC - 4.0L SOHC

$103.22 Engine, Overhaul gasket set, OVERHAUL GASKET SET, Explorer, Mountaineer, Upper (Valve Grind) - 4.0L SOHC - 4.0L SOHC

$28.93 Engine, Camshaft and timing, Tensioner, TENSIONER, Explorer, Mountaineer, Upper - 4.0L SOHC - 4.0L SOHC

Its worth mentioning that this procedure is not enjoyable at all and should be undertaken with at least 8 full days to completion (I recon you could do it in half the time the second time).

It is basically on entire engine re-build with both heads off and the engine out of the vehicle.

It is not possible to do the rear chain or sprocket with the engine in the car as the flywheel needs to come off + at least 1 head, but it is possible to do the front primary chain and or front cam chain with the engine in the car.

You will be a ford exploder and timing expert after you do this - the main reason should be the love of your American built vehicle. Its a solid car - except for the plastic guides!

Disclaimer Note: This is how i successfully did the job, but i am not a ford mechanic and don't hold me responsible if this does not work for you.
Timing Overview

A Small Sprocket on the crank turns a larger (2 to 1 ratio) jackshaft sprocket that is in turn connected front & back to the 2 camshafts.

Thus a 360o turn of the crank will turn both the camshafts 180o.

Firing order is 1-4 2-5 3-6, Right side numbers 1,2,3. Left Side = 4,5,6.

At TDC pistons 1 & 5 are fully raised, thus 1 is about to spark & 5 is evacuated.

The engine will turn freely (no piston to valve contact) with the cams 180o out, it will even run (roughly) with 1 out 180o, any other settings may cause major damage to the valves.

The 2 cam shafts come with timing markings, "yes" real timing marks that anyone can use (even without special tools) to ensure correct timing.

The way to time it is to ensure both the off centre cam shaft slits are level/flat with the head.

With the engine at TDC both the cams need to have the off centre slot in the same position either up and level or down and level.

It is super critical that both the camshafts are 100% in sink with each other, i.e. not a few degrees off, the engine computer can compensate for crank timing but not engineering failure.

Be warned the camshafts can turn easily fast & hard by themselves as a few springs are compressed at TDC, I got my finger jammed and its still healing + if the engine is not at TDC you may damage a valve.

Now heres the hard thing that you will need special tools for - if you need to change the timing, you will need to be able to undo the cam sprocket bolt on both cams & these are done up real tight.

There is a tool that you attach that has 2 pencil thick shafts that fit into the sprocket and prevent it from turning - then you need to put about 90Nm of force on the bolt (remember the rear one if LHT)

For the $money$, its well worth getting yourself the tool kit - it will save you hours in the long run. Search eBay for otc-6488 should be US $119 - then sell them again for say $100.

There is also a tool version of the oil tensioner in the kit that screws right in and puts the correct amount of force on the chain + guide, to enable you to do up the cam bolt with the chain and sprocket in the right spot on the cam.


Dec 20, 2010 | 2003 Ford Explorer

1 Answer

Hi there iv got a honda xx 2000 fi i need to do the chain and tentioner can you plaese guide me on this one??the bike has 65000 km on do i need to chainge the chain also??


hi i am doing 1 myself at the moment, you will need to remove, airbox, throttle boddies, radiator, cam cover, bit fidly to remove in the frame but it can be done, as the cam chain is fitted on the r/hand side of the engine there is no need for a complete engine stripdown, but you will need to take some carefull obsevations, once the rocker cover is removed you will see the 2x camshafts, you will need to remove the front r/hand engine cover this is the crankshaft pulsar cover, you will need a new gasket here, then you will observe the timing marks on the crankshaft t/= top dead centre, and the coresponding marks on both the inlet annd exhaust camshafts all these must be aligned make a drawing of this as it will have to go back together, in exact same position, with no room for errors,the exhaust cam has a pickup on it, make a special note of the position of this, you will need to undo all the camshaft cap bolts, this will alow removal of the cams to ease replacing your chain, if you wish you could also undo the cam sprocket bolts , these will require a loctite compound on refiting, you will then see the chain tensioner, this is on the rear right of the cylinder and it is held in with 2 bolts a new gasket comes with the cam tensioner if you buy the kit, a new gasket is also needed on the camshaft pulser this is located on the right hand side of the cylinder head, if you can acheive the disasembly without any problems, taking notes, making drawings, you will be able to reasemble it in reverse order, always use original parts, dont use gasket sealer , turn over your engine useing a spanner initialy to ensure corect valve timeing, a workshop manual is a must for your torque wrench settings it would also be usefull in guiding you throgh the afore mentioned job. warning do not atempt this job if you are in any doubt of your compentence to do it, paul

Dec 16, 2010 | 2002 Honda CBR 1100 XX Super blackbird

1 Answer

NOT GETTING LUBE TO CHAIN


Remove the bar and chain. Clean the oil port in the engine side where the bar fits to. Start the engine and look for oil oozing out of the port. If ok, clean the bar drive-end oil passages that run from each large hole out to the chain groove on each side. Clean the entire chain groove, then reassemble the bar and chain. Tighten the chain until it pulls up to the lower bar edge, but not so tight that you can't turn the chain by hand. Recheck tension again after tightening the bar cover nut(s). Start the engine and run at speed for several moments with the bar tip near some cardboard--it should throw off a thin line of oil. Hope this helps!

Sep 05, 2010 | Husqvarna Chain Saw 20" Bar

1 Answer

I have a Poulan 18" chainsaw. Dispite my best efforts to tighten the chain, it keeps slipping off of the bar. I can use it for about 30 seconds, then the chain slips off.


Make sure the chain brake is off (pull it toward you), then remove the bar mounting nut(s)/bolt(s) and the remove the side cover, bar, and chain. Clean the oil passages in the rear of the bar including two small passages that run from the larger holes out to the chain groove on each side. Clean the entire chain groove and make sure the end sprocket turns freely and is well oiled. Clean the engine face where the bar fits, then start the engine. Oil should ooze out of a small port in the engine case. If ok, then lay out the chain so that it can be inspected for bent links, dry/sticking joints, or missing/badly worn drive teeth. Inspect the sprocket on the clutch outer drum component for wear or damaged teeth. Make sure the pitch of the chain teeth match those of the drive sprocket (is this a new chain?). Check the hub bearing of the clutch drum for obvious wear. If all looks good, fit the chain around the clutch sprocket, then slip the bar into the the engine mounting space and work the chain over the entire bar. When setting the outer cover, make sure the adjuster tang fits into the related bar hole, then attach the clamp nut(s)/bolt(s), run up finger tight. Use the adjuster to set the chain tension--it should just pull the lower part of the chain up to the bar plus a little more. Check that you can move the chain by hand without any binding, then tighten the clamp bolts/nuts firmly. Recheck that the chain is properly tensioned. If not, re-loosen the clamp fasteners and re-tension the chain. When the clamp fasteners are tight, the tension must be rechecked. Hope this long-winded response helps!

May 13, 2010 | Poulan Pro 42CC 2 Cycle Chainsaw, 18"

2 Answers

Can u adjust the timming chain on a yamaha xj 600 1998 model


The XJ600 has a self adjusting timing chain tensioner, although it's robust enough, like the previous post say's they can stick. To remove the adjuster look at the back of the engine on the cylinder head, the tensioner is there, two bolts hold it on one above and one below. to remove the tensioner there is a spring tensioner in the centre of the unit, undo this with care it hold the pressure spring in place on the plunger. Now remove the retaining bolts very carfully, equal turns on each bolts (do not take one out fully, leaving the other in place fully tight).
Once off the engine DO NOT ROTATE the engine. The tensioner should move freely, although there is a rachet system that locks it out, if it moves out freely then it's fine. To re-fit the tensioner release the tensioner make sure it's adjusted fully inwards and use a fresh gasket. The tensioner only firs one way, if it won't fit don't force it and it can be broken easily. Tighten both retaining bolts evenly and per the removal. Re-fit the tensioning spring and retaining bolt (do not over tighten) the plunger is self adjusting from here.

Mar 13, 2010 | 1998 Yamaha XJ 600 Diversion S-N

1 Answer

Installing cam chain on 09 CRF 450. It seems that I don't enough slack in the cam chain to fit it around the camshaft sprocket.


check that the new cam chain is roughly the same length as the old one, ensure that it is properly installed on the bottom (crank) sprocket, make sure that your tensioner is backed off fully, even after all of this you will still find that the chain seems too short, tip the cam to the left side of the engine & your chain should slip on..double check your cam timing with cam cap snugged down & tensioner released.

Nov 03, 2009 | Honda CRF 450 R Motorcycles

1 Answer

2004 beetle changed head gasket. put back together running real rough and wont go over 2000 rpms


hi thanks for update the engine would run rough ifvalve timing was off a tooth however if in doubt ? recheck ! whenever you fit new belts or change always fit and work anticlockwise from the crankshaft ! this ensures the crank and cam side of belt and or chain is tight with the cam and crank t d c marks are aligned before you fit to other cogs and round tensioner did you compression test ? this also would verify lower comp's on each cyl due to valves not timed ie inlet+exhaust out of cynk ps do not ev engine too much just in case this is problem

Sep 06, 2009 | 2004 Volkswagen Beetle

1 Answer

The motor has a rattle when first cranked...after 10 minutes its not as loud...above 1500 rpms you cannot hear it... bike has 33,000 miles on it and is completely stock from factory... is it time for a...


I've got a 1995 cbr600 and it had the samr problem- it's a well known fault with hondas- it's probably the cam chain tensioner. It works off oil pressure so sounds like a tin full of marbles until the bike warms up. The best solution, if you can't live with the noise is a manual cam chain tensioner. APE make them and it stopped the noise on my bike as soon as it was fitted. I'm not sure if you can get one for your bike but a little googleing should tell you.

Apr 25, 2009 | 1993 Honda CBR 1000 F

1 Answer

Timing chain


I'll assume you are going to replace the entire set (sprockets, guides, etc.) which I got from O'Reilly for $79.

First, set engine to #1 TDC.
Remove valve cover, fan shroud, fan, drive belt, water pump, 4 10mm bolts from bottom front of head, and 3 10mm bolts from front of oil pan. Remove lower front shield to remove oil pump. remove oil pump/distributor drive shaft, noting the orientation of the drive shaft.
Remove harmonic balance using correct puller (can be rented from local auto parts store). Remove P/S pump and A/C compressor if necessary. Remove timing cover.

IMPORTANT: Before removing oil thrower and distributor drive gear, note direction of oil thrower.
Remove oil thrower and distributor drive gear.
Remove chain guides, tensioner, chain, and finally both sprockets.
The new crank sprocket can only be installed one way, by aligning groove with keyway. The new cam sprocket will have 3 guide holes on the mounting flange, and you will need to align the knock pin with hole #2. Both sprockets should have a small dot (timing mark) on the right side of the sprocket when viewed from the front.
To install new chain, inspect chain to find the two brightly colored gold links. These two links must align with the timing marks on the sprockets. Assemble and install chain tensioner.

!!! IMPORTANT: Be sure to use new gasket when installing tensioner. Tensioner is oil pressure fed and a leaking gasket could allow chain slack, leading to premature wear or break.
Install chain guides, being sure not to let tensioner pop out.

!!! IMPORTANT: The tensioner must be fully compressed. To accomplish this, loosen the 8mm bolts in the passenger side guide (the shorter one). Compress the tensioner, adjust guide to remove slack, and tighten the two 8mm bolts.
Double check that everything is still lined up properly, and make corrections as necessary.
Install distributor drive gear and oil thrower.

!!! IMPORTANT: Ensure oil thrower is installed facing away from the distributor gear. If not, it could get caught in the distributor gear and destroy the two gears or cause engine lockup.

Before installing timing cover, inspect coolant and oil passages. If there is excessive buildup, a good system cleaner is recommended. Replace timing cover gaskets to prevent oil leakage. The best way to reinstall the timing cover is to remove the oil pan, install the timing cover, and reinstall the oil pan (replacing the pan gasket). If you don't want to do that, simply grease the top and bottom of the timing cover and lightly tap it into place with a rubber mallet. This is to prevent damage to the oil pan and head gaskets.
To install the distributor drive shaft, dab some grease on the top side of the gear to hold it in place, and line it up with the distributor. If you are having trouble lining up the shaft, pull it out and look at it from the top, and you will see that the flange is offset. At #1 TDC, the offset will be towards the front.
Install oil pump, being sure to use new gasket.

!!! IMPORTANT: Failure to replace oil pump gasket could lead to inadequate oil pressure, which will cause severe engine damage.

The remainder of the installation is a reverse of removal, using new gaskets where necessary. Before installing your valve cover is a good time to check your rocker arm clearances. This is also a good time to replace your drivebelt, and any other maintenance items as necessary.

Sep 11, 2008 | 1986 Nissan King Cab

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