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Locate the wheel in the rear swingarm and slide the wheel far enough forward to slip the belt over the sprocket and then slide the wheel backwards again. It is very important not to bend or fold the belt backward or into loops smaller than 5 inches (127 mm) in diameter because sharp bending can weaken the belt and cause it to fail. THEN seat the caliper on the anchor weldment of the rear swingarm. THEN position the wheel in the swingarm, so that the brake disc is centered between the brake pads. THEN coat the axle with grease. THEN with the larger OD on the outboard side, hold the external spacer between the rear swingarm and the belt sprocket and slide the axle through the left side of the rear swingarm, the external spacer, and the belt sprocket into the wheel hub and when the axle emerges from the hub on the brake disc side of the wheel, push the axle through the short external spacer, the caliper bracket and the right side of the rear swingarm. THEN rotate the axle so that the flat on the threaded end is topside. THEN with the thumb down and the cam forward, install the adjuster cam onto the end of the axle. THEN apply a thin film of ANTI-SEIZE LUBRICANT to the inboard side of the cone nut avoiding contact with the threads and install the cone nut on the axle finger tight. THEN get a torque wrench with a 1/2 inch drive head and an axle torque adapter such as (HD-47925) which simplifies the belt adjustment procedure by allowing the cone nut to be properly tightened without having to remove the right side muffler and can also be used to loosen the cone nut, as well as rotate the weld nut on the left side. The torque adapter MUST be only be installed on the torque wrench at 90 degrees perpendicular to the torque wrench because if it is not 90 degrees perpendicular to the torque wrench it will act as a torque multiplier and the cone nut will not be torqued to the torque specification set on the torque wrench but it will be over tightened. Which will cause bearing etc. damage. THEN insert the torque adapter tool up between rear wheel and muffler and onto the cone nut on the outboard side for best clearance from /with the muffler. Verify that THE adjuster cam just contacts THE weld nub on both sides of the rear swingarm. And if necessary, push the wheel forward slightly to get it where you need it to be. THEN snug the cone nut to 15-20 ft-lbs (20-27 Nm). THEN check deflection at the loosest spot in the belt using a belt tension gauge such as the (HD-35381A) gauge and apply 10 lbs. (4.5 kg) of force at the midpoint of the bottom belt strand. Belt deflection with the bike upright with the wheel in the air should be three sixteenths to one 1 quarter inch or 4.8 to 6.4 mm. Belt deflection with the bike on its kickstand without rider or luggage and 10 psi (69 kPa) in the Rear Shocks should be one quarter to five sixteenths inches or 6.4 to 7.9 mm
35mm or 1 3/8" axle socket 3/4 or 19mm socket for lug nuts or lug wrench 15mm socket for brake caliper and bracket 13mm socket for wheel bearing bolts (extentions as well) Breaker bar or impact wrench to remove lug nuts and axle nut (Note: Do not use impact driver to install axle nut). Torque wrench for axle nut Hub puller - Optional Hammer
1. Jack the appropriate side of the car up. Make sure the rear wheels are blocked and/or set the parking brake. Use a jackstand to support vehicle at subframe for safety. 2. Remove wheel. 3. Remove brake caliper and bracket. 4. Remove rotor. 5. Using 35mm axle socket, remove axle nut, turn counterclockwise. You will either need an impact or a long breaker bar. They are installed with a lot of torque or may be rusted out or corrroded. 6. Push the axle back as far as possible. It won't come all the way out or through the hub, but will become loose. You can either get a tool that will push it out like a hub puller, or just use a hammer making sure not to hit the axle shaft threads and damage them. Put the axle nut back on the axle shaft so it is flush with the top. Then place 35mm axle nut socket on the axle nut and tap on the 35mm socket with the hammer not the threads on the axle shaft spline. 7. Disconnect the wheel sensor connector and then remove hub side connector from the bracket (unclip). 8. Take a 13mm socket with extensions as needed and remove the 3 bolts on the backside of the bearing around the axle. Be sure to use PBBlaster to help loosen the bolts. 9. The hub/bearing should come loose without need needing a hub puller. Be sure to note the sheet metal spacer between the hub and spindle with also has the bracket for the wheel sensor connector. 10. Double check both parts (hubs) to make sure they match. 11. Lube the axle shaft splines with good quality bearing grease before installing the hub. Clean off any old grease and crud first. 12. Install the hub assembly with the wires from the bearing at the bottom. Line up hub splines with axle shaft splines and push in on hub. Note: Don't forget that sheet metal plate between the spindle and wheel bearing. Note: Make sure the wheel sensor wires don't get pinched by the axle shaft. 13. Install the 3 13mm bolts to 96ft lbs. Service manual recommends replacing with new ones. Some hubs like AC Delco will come with new bolts which have threadlocker. 14. Install the axle nut. As tightened down it will pull the driveshaft the rest of the way in. Torque axle nut to GM specs of 159 ft-lbs or the figure specified by the hub manufacturer. It is recommended to use a new axle nut but not necessary. 15. Install the rotor, brackets and caliper. Torque caliper bracket bolts to 137 ft-lb and caliper pin bolts to 63 ft-lb. 16. Install the connector to the sheet metal bracket and reconnect both connectors. 17. Install the wheel. Torque lug nuts in a star pattern at 100 ft-lbs each. 18. Road test car and ensure any ABS and TRAC OFF light are off.
The torque spec is 103ft lbs. Most axle nuts on 4wd are around 100lbs, I have worked on cars for a while, so I usually tighten it down "wrist" tight, and give it a 1/4 turn. Always ends up being between 90-105lbs. Thanks.
-Jack up the car -remove the tire, 19mm socket -remove the brake caliper, its either an 18mm or 15mm socket that will remove the bracket bolts. -remove the rotor -remove the axle nut, its either a 34 or 36 mm -unplug ABS sensor connector if equipped -remove the three bolts that hold the bearing/hub assembly to the knuckle, a 13mm socket will work Remove the wheel bearing.
It is important to tighten the axle nut to the proper spec. Failure to do so will cause the new bearing to fail. you will need a 1/2" torque wrench for this.
To make removing and installing the axle nut easier place a punch in the fins of the rotor and rotate the rotor until the punch rests on the caliper (it doesn't hurt to put a couple lug nuts on to hold the caliper tight to the hub). This will hold the hub in place while you looses and tighten the axle nut.
2 things come to mind. first, check to make sure the wheel nuts are tightened down, if you have a torque wrench torque to 90 ft lbs. if that it not the issue, the my next suspicion would be a faulty wheel bearing. good luck!
Loosen the axle nut and the lock nuts for the chain adjusters on each side of the swingarm. Turn the adjuster to move the rear wheel to the rear to tighten the chain.
You want to adjust the chain so that you have 1 inch up and down play in the chain. By this I mean 1/2" above center and 1/2" below center of the chain as it sits on the bike, 1" up and down inclusive. Adjustment should be made at the point where the chain is the tightest. Roll the rear wheel while checking the chain tension. Find the tightest point to make your adjustment.
Move both chain adjusters the same amount to keep wheel straight within the swingarm. Once adjusted, roll the wheel a couple of turns and check the adjustment of the chain again. Once finished, tighten adjuster lock nuts and retorque the axle nut to 50 foot pounds of torque.
Set the bike on its center stand, then loosen the rear axle by removing cotter pin from hex nut and loosening the nut. There are two adjustment bolts, with lock nuts - one on each side of the rear axle. They are easily work with from the rear of the bike. Loosen the lock nuts and turn the adjustment bolts clockwise. this will draw the rear axle (wheel) backwards - tightening the chain. Take care to turn each side the same amount, so the rear wheel remains straight. Usually the flex in the chain should be about a quarter inch. After adjusting, tighten lock nuts to hold position of rear axle and tighten the axle nut, replace cotter pin.
First off, there is a sticker on the swing arm on how much tension it should have. It's 30 mm up and down play on the chain in the middle between the sprockets.
You need a 1 1/4 socket for the rear axle.
You need a 10mm and 12mm wrench.
Loosen the rear axle nut, but don't remove.
Loosen both 12mm nuts.
Back out both 10mm bolts untill your chain tension is close to 30mm.
Tighten the 12mm nuts and then the axle nut.
Note...Make sure by the markings that both sides are even, so the wheel is straight, and make sure the wheel is pushed forward as you tighten the axle nut.