Question about Harley Davidson FLSTF - FLSTFI Fat Boy Motorcycles

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The original sealer is coming off in thick pieces . How do I remove this before I reseal the tank on my 95 harley? Thank you.

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I assume you're talking about the tank sealer on the INSIDE of the tank. If so, you may can use acetone or a 50/50 mix of muriatic acid. Be very careful with either chemical. The acetone is very flammable and the muriatic acid will burn your skin and eyes.

To have the tanks recoated, take them to a radiator shop and have the "red coat" stuff put in them. Don't mess with Creme or any of that stuff, it's junk and that's probably what is coming off inside your tank now. I've never seen original Harley tank liner come off. Good Luck.

Posted on Sep 27, 2009

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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Hi Sharon, This is definately a warranty issue, don't let the dealer double talk you into nothing less than total satisfaction. The way I see it you have a few options, 1. Replace your custom paint job with a different one. 2. Fix the peeling problem no matter what it takes keeping your original paint job. 3. Contact the Motor Company directly and ask them why your dealer can't rectify the problem to your satisfaction. For more information about your question please visit the websites below. Good luck and have nice day.
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1989 Harley Davidson Sportster not getting any oil to the top of the motor, but is circulating back to the oil tank..


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If your bike did not come with a fuel gauge, you'll have to purchase a left side fuel tank if that's the location of the original fuel gauges. I do not know where Harley puts the fuel gauges on the Softails. If they have a fuel gauge on them, they are fuel injected. I do not work on fuel injected bikes, carbs only. Sorry.

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How do i fix oil pan leak in a 98 cadillac deville


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Remove toilet tank. In toilet seat is small hole filled with sealer. What is this for and if removed will it leak water?


If I understand you correctly you remove the tank and looked into the opening of the bowl where the tank attaches. There is usually a dollop of white silicone sealer. This is to plug a pssage created when the toilet was manufactured. Removing this will cause the toilet to not operate properly. If the hole is not sealed properly seal with a good grade silicone sealer. Make sure surface is dry before applying. Hope this helps.

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White film inside fuel tank coming off.


Sorry - misunderstood.
sounds like Kreem tank sealer or similar (there are lots of brands...) - treat for same.

  • Work in a well ventilated area
  • Don't have ignition sources around (if you light-up, you might REALLY light-up!)
  • Be aware that acetone can eat away at a nice paint job, wipe it off immediately
  • Sucking acetone fumes into a shop vac can cause fire from the electric
MATERIALS:


1. two gallons of acetone
2. 3 foot length of chain - the type of brass chain used for plant hangers works well.
3. large drip pan
4. two fabricated petcock hole covers
5. tank epoxy from Caswell or other suitable tank conditioner(?)
6. shop vacuum that can be set to blow
7. baggies
8. optional expandable rubber plug for fuel fill hole
9. 10 mm wrench (open-end helps) for dealing with sender unit
10. wire cutter (may be needed for sender unit)
11. plenty of shop rags
12. replacement O-rings for petcock gaskets
PROCEDURE IN DETAIL: 1. drain tank of all gas
2. remove petcocks
3. remove fuel gage float/sender unit
4. fabricate covers to cover petcock holes
5. remove gaskets from petcocks
6. use petcock gaskets with fabricated covers and install on tank
7. disconnect lead wires from sender unit (may have to cut and then reattach later)
8. use gasket from sender unit, install sender unit backwards on tank with float on the outside
9. pour chain into tank
10. pour gallon of acetone into tank
11. install leak proof cap (I suggest using an expandable rubber drain plug, but I just held the fuel cap down tight)
12. check for leaks
13. shake periodically, to remove rust and Kreem (keep in tank at least a day shake often enough to keep the Kreem damp prior to draining or it will re-solidify)
14. open one petcock hole and sender unit port and drain out the acetone saturated with Kreem and rust
15. remove chain - use a coathanger.
16. CAUTION acetone fumes are flammable and can ignite with the motor of a shop vacuum. Manually remove them.
17. reseal tank sender unit port and petcock holes
18. pour in 1/2 gallon of fresh acetone
19. shake often
20. remove one petcock cover
21. drain acetone into drip pan
22. replace petcock cover and gasket
23. filter the used acetone through a coffee filter into a mason jar (use the mason ring to hold filter)
24. pour in the filtered acetone (or use fresh)
25. add fresh if needed
26. shake periodically
27. repeat steps 20 to 25
28. remove petcock cover and drain tank contents
29. remove all other seals
30. use shop vac and hook it up for BLOWING.
31. Place hose over fuel filler hole and dry the inside of the tank very thoroughly (outside, of course)
32. Reseal petcock holes and sender unit port, but this time, use baggies between the tank and the gaskets to protect them from the resin. Note that I had to buy new O-rings anyway because my official Yamaha petcock gaskets were too deformed to seal after this process.
33. thoroughly mix the Caswell Tank epoxy (I used a drill attachment)
34. pour into the fuel filler hole and seal it.
35. rotate the tank, shake it, rotate it several minutes to cover all inside surfaces
36. continue for about 20 minutes or so (might depend on the temperature)
37. remove a petcock cover and drain excess epoxy
38. remove other petcock cover and sender unit
39. wipe off epoxy drips with acetone rag around open holes
40. let epoxy firm a little, install all screws with a drop of light machine oil, and then remove all screws to clear off threads, then let cure at least over night
41. Reassemble
That is, if you want to reseal it...

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1 Answer

Roof of cab repair 1997 F-150


those strips are called the ditches, where the panels are joined together. The material is supposed to stay soft. Under the sealer are spot welds where the panels are welded together.

Sealers
In addition to repairing the weld area, proper sealing of the joints is essential to a quality repair. Sealers are intended to prevent wind noise, water, dust and exhaust fumes from entering the vehicle and also perform as anti-corrosion barriers. Sealers need to be applied to such areas as door and rear compartment lid hem flanges, wheelhouse, quarter outer, floor, cowl, roof and various other panel-to-panel attaching points. The following joint sealers are recommended for use depending upon the application:
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  • Drip-Check Sealer - A heavy bodied sealer designed for use on exposed seams.
Sealers should remain flexible after curing and must be paintable. Follow the manufacturer's directions for use of materials selected.
Any damage to originally sealed joints should be corrected by resealing. Along with attaching points of new panels, open joints which require bridging of sealer to close a gap should be sealed using a heavy-bodied sealer.

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