Takes 10 min 2 start when it does start stalls just serviced it didnt make difference wanting 2 know valve clearence specs 4 a wrf 250 2002

s10 2.2 4 cyl looks like hydraulic roller lifters fitted

this is the lifter part listed for the motor ..set of 8


ticking will be worn or hammered lifters or poor oil flow pressure to the lifters

Valve Clearence Spec CRF250 2009
The bike is a 2009 model, it has a 5 speed manual transmission and there are no electronic ignition. The engine displacement is 249cc with max power of 25hp at 8000rpm and torque of 19Nm at 6000rpm.
As far as I know, the air filter is located in the left side cover on top of the carburetor and it has to be cleaned every 2000-3000kms depending on your riding style. If you have any further questions, please feel free to ask me!

stalls. engine stalls. Stalls only HOT. and fails hot soaked.
stalls have 4 paths ?
1: lost DC power, to EFI (spark and fuel brains) "loose fuse?"
2: lost compression only hot (compression gauge to rescue)
3: lost spark or the classic, never doing 60k mile tuneups.
or the classic EGR stuck open , again not ever cleaned at 60k
4: bad fueling. (too much floods, it and stalls it, or tool lean it dies)
(or stuck closed ISC) we clean it at 60k with the EGR. as part of the 60k service points listed in the missing operators guide. (bet)

in that order, this 4 macro paths to , no stalls.
do you want me to guess which of 50 parts are bad.?
or do the 4 tests. to find which path it is.
one takes a month, other 1hr.

one more test. can you save this stall with a fast right foot?
Y/N?

and how easy was it to save, if true.

no need to pump the gas on fuel injected vehicles.
Make sure CPS was installed correctly.

My friend is a p art time mechanic he gets his solutions from www.reliable-store.com
he gets from their every single detailed info, instructions etc. on all vehicles, and manuals like service, repairs, parts, owner's, operations, mainte nance etc.
U can get help from there
there is a girl at chat she can help you

hi this engine when dry takes 2.8 litres of oil,20w40. if you mean valve clearences you will have to remove the covers on top of the valves to gain access to the cam folowers, with the engine set at tdc using a feeler gauge check the clearence, the inlet should measure 0.05-0.10mm when cold in inches 2-4 tho
the exhaust should measure0.12-0.17mm when cold " 4-6 tho

hope this helps paul

it's your intake valves honda uses a titanium intake valves while it saves .999 pounds it IS there down fall. The valves start to recesse into the head, which we know will cause the clearance to get smaller. A.P.E offers a great fix, its a rebuilt head port and polished to stage 2 specs. with stainless steal valves springs and new keepers. While your there it'll give you a chance to see how things are doing on the top end of your motor, pull your cylinder and check your rod the gasket kit comes with a base gasket too so take your and build it right. this is also a great to replace your rings and hone the cylinder or better yet put a bore job on the to do list.
Fix it right, Ride it fast!
Mark
C.C. Motorsports

Possibly have the been done since breakin?Valve clearences should be adjusted after breakin and periodicaly after depending on specs.Improperaly adjusted valves can become burnt and not seal properly the also adversly effect timing.

The design of the ford focus is pretty bad. If you didnt do the timing perfect the pistons will hit the valves. This is called a zero clearence engine. You need to check compression in the cylinders and make sure they are in spec.

the only thing i can think of is
1. did you check the journal clearance to the main and rod caps? if this isnt within specs could be too tight.
2. did you put the rod caps and main berring caps on the same way you took them off....ie did you mark every thing 1 for #1 2 for #2 ect. if you installed the berring caps the oppsite way or didnt keep them in order some thing could be out of round causing tightness.
3. the same goes for pistons.......the mark should be pointing front for all. (ch approiate engine rebuild for info)
i would recomend trying to remove all spark plugs and try to turn the engine by hand( DO NOT TURN IT BACKWARDS>see which way the starter turns the motor) feel how it turns. if its hard then easy some thing is out of round poss installed wrong. personally id take down the pan and check the install. also take valve covers off ck the clearence of rocker arms. check your pushrods valve motion ect. you might also might want to break it down before you do some expensive damage.
tip.....if you didnt mark the rods and main berring caps and might have put them together incorrectly, remove the berrings and look at the honing marks. with patience and a good light you can see if they are lined up(cap and block for mains and cap and rod for connecting rods.) ie the cross marks line up.
good luck