Question about 2004 Suzuki RM 125

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Boging at take off an clears at high revs what should compression ratio be also spark plug gap

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Hi buddy spark plug gap should be 0.32 / 0.8mm and the compression should be 125-185psi try cleaning air filter also on carb is a screw turn this all the way in and unscrew 1 1/2 turns out and try this you will always get a bog at low rpm iff you throttle quickley get back to me boging at take off an clears at high revs - c64ac63.jpg

Posted on Sep 25, 2009


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Your best bet for initial startup and first 100 miles is to stick with stock plugs and gap. Then alter depending on what you see with plug condition. More likely you will need a different plug TYPE, depending on mods. If you have increased horsepower and/or compression ratio (depending on what you see after 100 miles), go with colder plug, and stay with current gap. If setup is now runs a little ''smokey'' (i.e. ''rich'' mixture and/or burning oil), go with hotter plug and stay with current gap.

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Why won't my 1998 Polaris indy 500 start? It is getting fuel and has spark.

Along with fuel and need enough spark and you need enough compression. Asssuming your rings aren't broken and you can feel good compression when you are turning it over, you can spray a little ether in the carburetor chamber. If there is enough spark and compression it will at least fire up momentarily.
Sometimes the rings or cylinders get scratched up because they run incorrect gas/oil ratios for too long and then when they sit for a while the oxidation fills in those scratched surfaces. Starting with high fuel to oil ratios is easier to start ( gas burns easier with less oil in it) but the engine will wear faster with high ratios.

But if the engine won't start under pure ether, then the spark is real weak or out of time, and/or the compression is shot. Good compression makes heat and concentrates the air and fuel together. If the compression even falls from 10:1 to 8:1, that is enough to cool the charge from about 150F down to about 90F or so and you won't get ignition

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Engen problem and missing

Sir, your question is not very clear, but I will still try to post a solution here. Engine missing could be due to any problem in fuel system, ignition system, engine or ECM as well.

-Throttle body (do the cleaning and idle speed learning)
-A /C signal circuit
-Fuel pump control circuit
-Fuel pump
-Intake system
-P C V valve (clogged or open) and hose

-Cylinder Compression
-Ignition system (Igniters, spark plugs, wiring harness)
-Spark plug fouled, gap too wide or too short. (1.00-1.1 mm)
-Fuel injector circuit
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-Air fuel ratio sensor
-Heated oxygen s ens or
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-Idle hunting
-Throttle body
-Intake system
-P C V valve and hose
-Air fuel ratio sensor
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-Fuel pump control circuit
-Fuel pump
-Spark plug
-Ignition system
-Fuel injector circuit
-E C M power source circuit
-Mass air flow meter
-Throttle body (do cleaning)
-Intake system
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If ur not hitting the rev limitter then it could b the gap on the spark plugs bad spark plug or wire.or high speed jets pluggin up or air filter starting to plug up or a burnt valve.

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Hard to start, when i get it started it fine shut it off try to start it hard to start

General advice aplicable for all gas powered chain saws;
Clean air filter regularly.
-Adjust spark plug gap (very important). A faulty gap will either cause poor spark or a overloaded and damaged spark plug coil.
-Use correct good quality spark plug
-Use correct oil/fuel mix ratio and correct oil.
-Do not use old premixed fuel if you can avoid it.

Carburator adjustment;
-idle speed setting screw should be set so that the saw idles well, without engaging the chain. If you normally have to press the gas lever to be able to start it coul indicate a to low seting. Clockwise will increase idle speed. This screw is found near the carburator and is slightly larger the the two adjusment screws.
- fuel-air mixture screws can be set to standard factory setting as a start. Normally there are 2 screws labeled L and H, for Hi and Low rpm band adjustments. Factory setting are usually 3/4 turn out(anti clockwise) from fully closed setting for both (clockwise to closed position).
Experiment with adjustments by 1/8 increments at the time. Anti clockwise turning will increase fuel to air ratio and opposite. Warm weather will require a slightly leaner mix and cold weather will reqire a slightly richer mix(more fuel). Low rpm setting only serves the idling performance. The Hi rpm setting can be evaluated by removing the spark imediately after running at full load for a period. The spark plug should be dry, and be lightly brownish at the electrodes. White-ish color indicates low fuel to air mix, and this causes too high combustion temperature. A black colour indicates a too high fuel to air mix ratio, and it causes carbon build up on the plug.

If you still have starting problems, cylinder/piston compression is the next to check for. This is a more extensive job and should best be left to professionals, unless you are very skilled and have access to special tools required. Compression on modern saws are very delicately balance, so the slightest damage to either the rings, piston or cylinder can cause problems. Is is not alwas worth to replace the cylinder and piston kit, so compare prices and ask for advice at your dealer.

I hope this helps you.

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