Question about 2001 kawasaki EN 500 Vulcan Classic

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Electrical in Nature: 2001 Kawasaki Vulcan 500

While riding down the road (regardless of speed or conditions) my Vulcan will occasionally quit (as if the key were being turned on and off). Sometimes this will occur for several seconds before power comes back. As of yet, it has not stayed off long enough that I came to a complete stop, however, my confidence in taking off down the road with assuredness that I will get to my destination or back home is somewhat gone. Any help you can give on this would be appreciated.

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Had a similar prob on my w650..turned out to be a loose battery connection.

Posted on Sep 25, 2009

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I have a 2003 Kawasaki en 500 looking for front forks have found forks but not the same year wanted to know if the 2002 forks would fit


Hi, Anthonyri303 after careful deliberation 4 out 5 Kawasaki Gods give this one a thumbs up, but just to be on the safe side you should give your local dealer's parts/service department a call to confirm.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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The battery charge voltage should be about 13.5-15.5 volts dc when speed is about 2000-2500 rpm. The rectifier and/or voltage regulator could be bad or the motorcycle could have a wiring issue such as an intermittent connection/short etc.

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probably lean. check fuel flow , then float levels, and emulsifiers, to start with.

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Hi, Michell this engine has an overhead camshaft that uses shims to adjust valve clearance it has no hydraulic lifters that self-prime, for this scenario you will need your service, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Kawasaki, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one. For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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Im about to buy a 2009 kaw vulcan 500 and #1it needs a battery and #2 Ive forgotton how to ride (shift gears) and #3 im not sure what model it is


Batteries are easy and cheap to come by. 40-60$.
Shifting:
Starting from bottom to top shifting goes as follows: 1-N-2-3-4-5-6. Just pull in the clutch before you shift and release afterwards. Remember to release slowly when you are first accelrating from a stop.
Vulcans are great beginners bikes. 500cc is perfect to learn on and the Vulcan is very user friendly. Easy to start up and get going even when its cold, comfortable riding position, and strong enough to make freeway riding enjoyable. For a used 2009 i wouldn'tpay more than $3500 in good condition

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Have a 2007 vulcan 500, it doesnt seem to be getting enough fuel. It bogs down and wants to cut out and not at any particular speed.


Drain the carbs. chances are water condensation in the gas tank has built up in the float bowls. If that doesn't help, try a fresh set of spark plugs. Please rate my answer.
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I HAVE A 2001 VULCAN 1500 NOMAD . WHEN RIDEING LONG DISTANCES AT HIGHWAY SPEEDS I LOOSE THE PRIME ON MY HYDROLIC CLUCH. WHEN I GET OFF THE HIGHWAY IF I LET THE BIKE SIT IT COME BACK OR IF I PUMP THE HANDLE...


Could be an air bubble in the line. Try "back bleading" the system. Connect a tube to a plastic bottle with brake fluid, sqweez the air out of the tube, attach the tube to the hydraulic slave bleeder nipple, open the nipple and sqweez the bottle to force the fluid backwards through the system.

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What would cause my '03 Kawasaki 500 vulcan to over heat while riding at 75 mph in 90 degree weather? It's never happen before. The machine only has 2100 miles on it and is mostly rode around the city.


Hi ,
The thermostat may be playing up and will need to be replaced .
Bare in mind that any liquid cooled motor will need the coolant to be replaced and cooling system flushed out on a regular basis especially while riding in city as the engine is constantly in the high temperature .

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Tire pressure in manual is 21psi, front and 22psi for rear. Do I need to increase this for on road riding? Pressure seems low for on road riding?


Here's my take on tire pressures and when they need adjusted, I wrote this a while back for someone with a Honda African Twin, so this should help:


Manufacturer's recommendation – Short distance city riding below 100kph. Light off-road use ie. Small rocks, gravel. If the weather/road conditions vary a lot.


30% above recommended pressure – High speed road use. Long distances in warm weather on good quality roads. Go 40% if the conditions are the same but the bike is fully loaded with carriers.


15% below recommended pressure – Short distance riding in cold winter temps. Short distance on wet roads. Off-road, average gravel/rocks and some wet mud.


40% below recommended – Slow off-road riding in very loose dirt, sand, with lots of rocks. Tires will heat up quickly if the pace is picked up which will loose grip and cause accelerated wear.


60% below recommended – Very slow, loose dirt, deep sand (dunes). If tires slip on the rims you need to increase pressure.


My mantra is all about keeping a close eye on tire pressures and adjusting them to suit the conditions rather than keeping strictly at the manufacturer's settings. Starting out my riding career on a BMX, tire pressures can be the difference from landing a perfect jump and falling on your face. Therefore, with a motor attached, it is even more important to get it right – personally I think the 'feel and grip' is more important than the pressure number – regardless if that causes tire wear.


Hope this helps and you vote for me :)

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98 jeep grand cherokee dies and starts back


replace the crank angle sensor and this should cure your problem

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