Question about 1996 Suzuki GSX 750 F (Katana)
Send a pic of this part to me buddy
Posted on Sep 24, 2009
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Tips for a great answer:
to change the rear inner tube on a 2010 48 volt Aowa Hybike e-bike
Changing the rear tire and/or tube is a
real hassle. If I ever have to do it again, it will be much easier
having done it once. I hope you find this step-by-step helpful and I
trust it will save you time and profanities.
There is a lack of technical
information on these awesome electric bicycles. I bought mine used
off of craigslist in September 2010 and after 2 years of nearly
flawless, nearly daily operation, the rear tire developed a slow
leak. I had neglected to properly maintain tire pressure at 40 psi
(as indicated by the tire sidewall markings) and this most likely
caused the failure of the tube (I couldn't find any nails, thorns,
etc. that might have caused the leak). I kept riding the bike for
weeks in this state and would just add air willy-nilly. The tube
began to slip on the wheel so my air stem was getting really crooked,
which puts undue strain on the valve stem. One night I was riding
the bike to my girlfriend's house and the back tire went totally
flat. Because it was late and I was cold and only halfway to her
house, I decided to ride on the flat (which is never a good idea; I'm
lucky I didn't damage the rear wheel).
Before you begin, find the right size
inner tube. 22 x 1.75 is what I used but it says 22 x 2.125 on the
sidewall. I got 2 from Phoenix
Produce Company, the Chinese market that imports these bikes in
AZ. I bought 2 heavy-duty tubes for $24. Pricy but worth the extra
Step 1: One of the great features of
these bikes is the locking center stand. It helps deter theft and
makes the bike very stable for maintenance or parking. However, the
center stand is attached to the rear axle and therefore is useless
(and an additional obstacle) when changing the rear tube. I ended up
using a cinder block under the center of the bike as a stand.
However, the bottom of the ebike is not level and therefore will rock
side-to-side, teetering on the central rail of the frame. I wedged
two chairs under the hand grips (one chair on each side), which
prevented the bike from falling but it was still not stable. I'd
recommend either shimming the sides of the lower frame rails and/or
using tie-down straps on either side of the bike for stability.
Step 2: Remove the orange "foot peg
covers" from the rear axle. There are two Phillips head screws on
the top and on on the lower side of each.
Step 3: Remove the vertical supports of
the rear luggage rack using a 10mm socket or wrench. It's always
good practice to replace the bolts in their holes so you don't lose
Step 4: Remove the bolt on the left
side (left as in you're sitting on the bike) that secures the rear
hub to the lower frame (in front of the brake). Remove the rear
brake cable from the brake lever on the rear wheel hub. I failed to
do this the first time and couldn't figure out why the wheel wouldn't
Step 5: Look at the axle and note the
order of parts on either side. Because the wire to the rear hub
electric motor runs through the axle from the left side, you will not
be able to completely remove all the hardware from the left side of
the axle unless you disconnect the wires. I kept the wires attached
and by doing so was able to re-create the order of things on the
right side so I recommend you do not detach the wiring. However,
enure you do not place stress on the wire (it's protected somewhat by
Step 6: Loosen the axle nuts. I used a
big crescent wrench. Remove the "foot pegs" (they look like
angle brackets), the washer, the center stand mount, the locking tab
washers, the axle adjusters, and whatever else you find in there.
Step 7: Remove the rear drive chain
from the right side by either removing the master link or (what I
did), slide the axle forward enough to get the chain off the
Step 8: Pull the rear wheel rearward to
remove it from the frame. This is very awkward as you'll be
contending with the center stand and rear fender and rear hub motor
wire. I used a few screwdrivers to pry the axle back. This step
(and the next few) were extra-messy in my case as there was green
tire "Slime" everywhere.
Step 9: Wash your hands. Have a beer
or a smoke.
Step 10: Mark the sidewall of the tire
below the valve stem (I used white-out). Using non-serrated butter
knives (or actual bicycle tire spoons), force the bead of the right
side of the tire off the wheel rim. Pull the tube out and finagle it
over the right side of the axle. While it is not necessary to
completely remove the tire to change the tube, you should take the
extra minute to inspect the tire for any burrs, thorns, etc so you
don't have to do this horrible procedure again any time soon.
Step 11: Inspect the rim strip to make
sure the spokes aren't poking through.
Step 12: Inspect the tube to see where
it failed. If it's not obvious, you can inflate the tube and either
submerge it in a shallow pan of water or spray soapy water on the
tube and look for bubbles. Using the whiteout mark you made on the
tire in Step 10 and the valve stem as a reference, carefully inspect
the tire at that corresponding location to see if you can "pinpoint"
the cause of the flat. I love puns. Also inspect the wheel rim at
the corresponding point for nicks, burrs, or damage.
Step 13: Clean the tire and wheel.
Using your knives (or tire spoons), force the bead of one side of the
tire onto the wheel (I didn't replace my tire because it still had
lots of tread). Partially inflate the new tube just to give it a bit
of shape. This makes it easier to position and reduces the changes
of pinching the tube with your spoons or the tire bead. Be sure the
valve stem is completely perpendicular to its hole in the wheel or
you risk tearing off the valve stem.
Step 14: Once the tube is positioned
properly, force the other side of the tire back onto the wheel rim.
Take you time lest you damage the tube. I had to repeat this step
2-3 times to ensure the valve stem was completely straight. Don't
rush this step.
Step 15: Loosen the axle adjuster nuts
using a 10 mm wrench. I turned them 5-7 turns. Do this so you can
adjust the chain and rear brake in the next step. Position all the
hardware on the left and right sides of the axle properly and don't
forget to put the chain over the axle if you didn't remove its master
link. I forgot to do this and, not realizing there was a master
link, had to repeat this entire step. Avoid my mistake! When I say
"position the hardware" I mean the axle adjusters and washers
need to be "inside" the frame and everything else (center stand
mount, foot pegs, axle nuts, etc.) needs to be "outside" the
frame. This is a real pain so you might want a friend to help. I
did it by myself but it took several attempts. Because the rear axle
is oval-shaped, it will only slide into the frame if perfectly
aligned. I used an adjustable wrench to turn the axle while holding
the wheel off the ground while trying to keep the "inside" and
"outside" hardware aligned. This is a juggling act that might
require cussing and death metal listening.
Step 16: Slide the axle all the way
forward and place the chain over both sprockets. Adjust the chain
using the axle adjusters and ensure both are adjusted the same to
avoid misaligning the rear wheel.
Step 17: Tighten the axle nuts. Ensure
the locking tab washers and center stand supports are in their
respective slots on the frame as you tighten the nuts.
Step 18: Reconnect the hub-to-frame
bolt and rear brake cable.
Step 19: Test the throttle and make
sure the rear motor spins freely. Test the chain as well by turning
Step 19: Adjust the rear brake by
turning the rounded barrel nut against the cable end.
Step 20: Inflate the rear tire to 40
psi. I added 8 ounces of Slime to the tire before doing so.
Step 21: Pray you didn't mess up anything and go for a test ride!
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