Question about 1996 Suzuki GSX 750 F (Katana)

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I pulled the rear axle out and dropped the wheel off the bike to change the tire, when the wheel came off a part i dont recognize dropped on the ground and i have no idea where to put it back...is there anywhere on line that i can see a diagram of the rear wheel assembly?

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This might melp, its all the parts of your bike. Rear wheels about half way down.
http://www.cmsnl.com/suzuki-gsx750-f-katana-1989-1996-usa_model16098/partslist/

Posted on Mar 31, 2010

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Send a pic of this part to me buddy

Posted on Sep 24, 2009

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Rear tire change aowa electric bike


How to change the rear inner tube on a 2010 48 volt Aowa Hybike e-bike





Changing the rear tire and/or tube is a real hassle. If I ever have to do it again, it will be much easier having done it once. I hope you find this step-by-step helpful and I trust it will save you time and profanities.



There is a lack of technical information on these awesome electric bicycles. I bought mine used off of craigslist in September 2010 and after 2 years of nearly flawless, nearly daily operation, the rear tire developed a slow leak. I had neglected to properly maintain tire pressure at 40 psi (as indicated by the tire sidewall markings) and this most likely caused the failure of the tube (I couldn't find any nails, thorns, etc. that might have caused the leak). I kept riding the bike for weeks in this state and would just add air willy-nilly. The tube began to slip on the wheel so my air stem was getting really crooked, which puts undue strain on the valve stem. One night I was riding the bike to my girlfriend's house and the back tire went totally flat. Because it was late and I was cold and only halfway to her house, I decided to ride on the flat (which is never a good idea; I'm lucky I didn't damage the rear wheel).





Before you begin, find the right size inner tube. 22 x 1.75 is what I used but it says 22 x 2.125 on the sidewall. I got 2 from Phoenix Produce Company, the Chinese market that imports these bikes in AZ. I bought 2 heavy-duty tubes for $24. Pricy but worth the extra durability.





Step 1: One of the great features of these bikes is the locking center stand. It helps deter theft and makes the bike very stable for maintenance or parking. However, the center stand is attached to the rear axle and therefore is useless (and an additional obstacle) when changing the rear tube. I ended up using a cinder block under the center of the bike as a stand. However, the bottom of the ebike is not level and therefore will rock side-to-side, teetering on the central rail of the frame. I wedged two chairs under the hand grips (one chair on each side), which prevented the bike from falling but it was still not stable. I'd recommend either shimming the sides of the lower frame rails and/or using tie-down straps on either side of the bike for stability.



Step 2: Remove the orange "foot peg covers" from the rear axle. There are two Phillips head screws on the top and on on the lower side of each.



Step 3: Remove the vertical supports of the rear luggage rack using a 10mm socket or wrench. It's always good practice to replace the bolts in their holes so you don't lose them.



Step 4: Remove the bolt on the left side (left as in you're sitting on the bike) that secures the rear hub to the lower frame (in front of the brake). Remove the rear brake cable from the brake lever on the rear wheel hub. I failed to do this the first time and couldn't figure out why the wheel wouldn't come off!



Step 5: Look at the axle and note the order of parts on either side. Because the wire to the rear hub electric motor runs through the axle from the left side, you will not be able to completely remove all the hardware from the left side of the axle unless you disconnect the wires. I kept the wires attached and by doing so was able to re-create the order of things on the right side so I recommend you do not detach the wiring. However, enure you do not place stress on the wire (it's protected somewhat by a spring.



Step 6: Loosen the axle nuts. I used a big crescent wrench. Remove the "foot pegs" (they look like angle brackets), the washer, the center stand mount, the locking tab washers, the axle adjusters, and whatever else you find in there.



Step 7: Remove the rear drive chain from the right side by either removing the master link or (what I did), slide the axle forward enough to get the chain off the sprockets.

Step 8: Pull the rear wheel rearward to remove it from the frame. This is very awkward as you'll be contending with the center stand and rear fender and rear hub motor wire. I used a few screwdrivers to pry the axle back. This step (and the next few) were extra-messy in my case as there was green tire "Slime" everywhere.



Step 9: Wash your hands. Have a beer or a smoke.



Step 10: Mark the sidewall of the tire below the valve stem (I used white-out). Using non-serrated butter knives (or actual bicycle tire spoons), force the bead of the right side of the tire off the wheel rim. Pull the tube out and finagle it over the right side of the axle. While it is not necessary to completely remove the tire to change the tube, you should take the extra minute to inspect the tire for any burrs, thorns, etc so you don't have to do this horrible procedure again any time soon.



Step 11: Inspect the rim strip to make sure the spokes aren't poking through.



Step 12: Inspect the tube to see where it failed. If it's not obvious, you can inflate the tube and either submerge it in a shallow pan of water or spray soapy water on the tube and look for bubbles. Using the whiteout mark you made on the tire in Step 10 and the valve stem as a reference, carefully inspect the tire at that corresponding location to see if you can "pinpoint" the cause of the flat. I love puns. Also inspect the wheel rim at the corresponding point for nicks, burrs, or damage.



Step 13: Clean the tire and wheel. Using your knives (or tire spoons), force the bead of one side of the tire onto the wheel (I didn't replace my tire because it still had lots of tread). Partially inflate the new tube just to give it a bit of shape. This makes it easier to position and reduces the changes of pinching the tube with your spoons or the tire bead. Be sure the valve stem is completely perpendicular to its hole in the wheel or you risk tearing off the valve stem.



Step 14: Once the tube is positioned properly, force the other side of the tire back onto the wheel rim. Take you time lest you damage the tube. I had to repeat this step 2-3 times to ensure the valve stem was completely straight. Don't rush this step.



Step 15: Loosen the axle adjuster nuts using a 10 mm wrench. I turned them 5-7 turns. Do this so you can adjust the chain and rear brake in the next step. Position all the hardware on the left and right sides of the axle properly and don't forget to put the chain over the axle if you didn't remove its master link. I forgot to do this and, not realizing there was a master link, had to repeat this entire step. Avoid my mistake! When I say "position the hardware" I mean the axle adjusters and washers need to be "inside" the frame and everything else (center stand mount, foot pegs, axle nuts, etc.) needs to be "outside" the frame. This is a real pain so you might want a friend to help. I did it by myself but it took several attempts. Because the rear axle is oval-shaped, it will only slide into the frame if perfectly aligned. I used an adjustable wrench to turn the axle while holding the wheel off the ground while trying to keep the "inside" and "outside" hardware aligned. This is a juggling act that might require cussing and death metal listening.



Step 16: Slide the axle all the way forward and place the chain over both sprockets. Adjust the chain using the axle adjusters and ensure both are adjusted the same to avoid misaligning the rear wheel.



Step 17: Tighten the axle nuts. Ensure the locking tab washers and center stand supports are in their respective slots on the frame as you tighten the nuts.



Step 18: Reconnect the hub-to-frame bolt and rear brake cable.



Step 19: Test the throttle and make sure the rear motor spins freely. Test the chain as well by turning the pedals.



Step 19: Adjust the rear brake by turning the rounded barrel nut against the cable end.



Step 20: Inflate the rear tire to 40 psi. I added 8 ounces of Slime to the tire before doing so.



Step 21: Pray you didn't mess up anything and go for a test ride!

Dec 02, 2012 | Electric Cycling

1 Answer

Removing rear wheels


you dont need to remove tires from bike, turn bike on one side so back tire is flat to ground, this give you the other tire in air for easier access. Use a tire removal kit to take off tire there relatively cheap, try walmart, they usually have the tires and the removal kits too...

Mar 28, 2012 | Schwinn Meridian Adult 26-Inch 3-Wheel...

1 Answer

Need to take off back tire need a new tire and not


Put the bike up on the main stand. Remove the rear brake caliper assy. Loosen the rear axle and pull it out. Now pull out on the wheel, pull it away from the rear gear housing, the wheel will disengage a gear inside and then it is ready to pull out the back.

Aug 28, 2011 | 2001 Suzuki VS 800 Intruder

1 Answer

Needing a manual on how to remove the rear tire On a 2004 Honda Shadow Aero VTC 750. The tire is flat and it is cheaper for me to remove it myself and take the tire in. I'd rather not haul the bike up...


Put the bike on the center stand or jack up the back end enough to get easy access. Unbolt and slide out the rear axle. If the axle hits the mufflers, take out the lower shock bolts and lower the wheel and swing arm enough to pull the axle and spacer out. Unbolt the brake panel stop arm. The wheel is now resting on a splined shaft. Grab the wheel and pull it/slide it sideways away from the final drive assembly. Now you should be able to drop it out the bottom or roll it out the back of the wheel well. If the tire is too wide to fit between the final drive spline and the swing arm, let the air out of the tire to squeeze it through the gap. Go to the local Honda dealer and purchase a tube of Moly60 Paste and coat the spline on the final drive with it before reassembly.

Jun 24, 2011 | Honda CRF 50 F Motorcycles

1 Answer

How do you take off the rear tire to change the tire


Basically, you jack up the bike, take the nut off the axle and pull it out. There will be some spacers that come out when you pull the axle out. One will be in each wheel bearing seal and one longer one on the drive side. Make sure you mark them or make a drawing on how they go back in. Once the wheel drops down, you'll have to work the wheel out of the swingarm. You may have to take the belt guards off as well.

Good Luck
Steve

Sep 27, 2010 | 2005 Harley Davidson FLHRS - FLHRSI Road...

1 Answer

I have a 1993 vulcan that needs new tires. I have the front wheel off no problem, but I don't even know where to start taking the rear apart. Would appreciate any expert advice.


Easy as pie. Put bike on center stand or use swingarm stand. Remove nut from rear axle. Remove pinch bolt from rear axle, and pull axle out. Take spacer from between frame and rear brake. Remove brake strut, and brake caliper. Pull wheel out of final drive, and lower to floor. You might have to let the air out of the tire to get it out from between the final drive and swingarm. After changing the rear tire inflate it to seat the bead, deflate to get back in place, then reinflate. Put some grease on the splines in the final drive before reinstalling the wheel, this will make it easier for the next change.

Apr 04, 2010 | 2004 kawasaki EN 500 Vulcan Classic

1 Answer

How to remove the rear tire with shaft drive


Pull the rear axle, and spacer on the brake side of wheel. Un hook brake rod and brake strut. Position yourself on the brake side of the bike and pull the rear wheel straight out of the final drive housing. Put a little grease on thhe final drive splines upon reinstalling the wheel to aid removal next time.

Apr 01, 2010 | 1979 Yamaha TX 750

2 Answers

REPLACINGTHE REAR TIRE ON A HARLEY DAVIDSON 2008 HERITAGE SOFTAIL


Down and dirty way - take it to the dealer and have them install a new tire....

The hard way: place bike on bike jack and remove rear wheel by removing the axle nut and drifting the axle out of the wheel. Derail the belt/chain and drop the wheel out of the brake caliper. Remove valve stem to deflate the tire. Get a set of tire spoons and a 12 pack of COLD brew cause working with tire spoons is no FUN! Pry the bead loose with one spoon and the work your way around the wheel prying the tire beed to the outside of the wheel. Repeat this process for the back side of the tire (in the same direction as the first side so the tire will come off the wheel. Reverse and repeat to install new tire.

By now you will be loading your wheel into the truck and heading to the HD shop. It just really isn't worth the hastle to save the $25 or so to have this job done.

Align wheel with new tire on it with the brake caliper so that you have one shoe on each side of the rotor (you may have to actually remove the caliper if your pads are thick. Install your belt drive/chain drive and then lift the wheel to insert the axle through the swing arm, the chain tensioner and wheel. Reverse
on the other side. Place axle nut on axle and torque to about 80lbs.

Good to go.

Aug 15, 2009 | 2000 Harley Davidson FLSTC Heritage...

1 Answer

Rear wheel removal


remove the chain. dont loose the pin. loosen the axle nut remove the axle. have a hand on the wheel as it will drop out at this point. install will be a bit harder. i like to lower the bike once the tire is under the fender. lower it until the holes are almost lined up. it beats trying to balance a tire and slip teh axle back in place. be sure to tighten the axle bolt to torque spec. too loose and you can get a shake, too tight and you can alter the path of the chain by a fraction and may cause premature chain wear.

Jul 07, 2009 | 1994 Honda VT 600 C Shadow

1 Answer

Need to replace back tire


off of wat bike. if a dirtbike, loosin up the rear axle bolt, slide it out and pull the chain to the left and spin the wheel in the right direction, then jiggle it loose. take the caps off of each side right away so u dont lose them.of course i dont no wat bike u got tell me that and il 4sure help u

Feb 02, 2009 | 2004 Honda VT 1100 C2 Shadow Sabre

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