HOW TO REWIND A STATOR THAT WILL LAST FOR AT LEAST
What's the best way of rewinding a stator for XL 125S so that it will last longer and how to do it..this is my second time to have my stator rewinded.. thanks.. a mechanic once suggested that he will instead use a stator and a "magneto" intended for Honda XR 200 in my XL125, is there a possibiity that this would really work? please help me... thanks in advance..
Re: HOW TO REWIND A STATOR THAT WILL LAST FOR AT LEAST
If you are rewinding multiple stators I would expect some other source of the problem like a short somewhere. An XR 200 stator may work as the motors are similar. I would trust a used Honda stator more than any rewound one, usually they are completely trouble free and will last longer than the rest of the motor
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Being a resistive coil there are pass/fail values for that assy. Given it's age, a re-wound unit will restore functionality if that is in fact the failure causing your problem. Find test values, and determine if it is in/out of spec. There are stator rewinders, prices and reputations vary. But it can be done for reasonable money spent. It is also possible to increase the output of the unit when rewound, some can be done some can not for various reasons.
Do a search on stator rewinding, and I believe you will be well on your way to solving your problem.....Good Luck
rewinding a stator is not difficult, find the right wire, better is square wire, as the heat conductance is better. If you select the same diameter you get automatically approximately the same amount of windings as the original. The sell the wire on Amazon and other places, Bing is your friend.
I wouldn't consider rewinding a motor of that size unless it's impossible to get a replacement, in which case I'd modify the pump to take a common motor.
It's cheaper to build a small motor than it is the rewind it- it's quite a job to rewind a motor, and small motors are hardest.
Look on the motor tag- you should see RPM, HP and Frame Size. These are the three things you need to know to replace the motor. If the shaft is odd, as it sometimes is in pump motors, you can always just replace the entire motor stator- the housing with the laminations and windings, with one from a different motor of the same brand, frame size, HP and RPM. Again, cheaper than rewinding the motor, but a little more work than just replacing it.
its not the resistance that counts its the number of turns that really matters. Its the number turns that determines the the output voltage of your cdi source coil. I have an xls 125 ('90) that had a rewound source coil (when i got it second hand ), it was badly rewound and it only pumps out 60volts out the source coil going to the cdi box when it should be 100 v, as a result i get a very weak spark at the plugs (my plugs usually last just a month). If you have the patience to uncoil the windings and count them then that would be the way to go, and use the same wire size .buy good quality wire, not the cheap ones, remember this thing is bathed in oil inside the crank case so its subjected to a lot of heat and vibration.Once you've wound your coil be sure to dip it in electrical varnish dry it thoroughly and encase the winding in good epoxy to protect it from the engine oil and vibration.Let me know how it goes, cause i've been wanting to rewind my stator but current stator is a rewound so i can not get the proper count and wire size . Another option i've been thinking is to buy a china replacement stator , only problem is they tend to burn out easily. my analysis is that they do due to the fact that the windings are not encased in epoxy so they have no protection from the harsh condition inside the engine. So using that and protecting it from the heat oil and vibration (varnish and epoxy) might work. What ever path you take let me know, am getting tired of buying new plugs every month. you can email at email@example.com
Most single phase motors have an overload protection device, either over current operated or temperature operated, either way once it cools the motor can be restarted, but you need to find the problem. 1. Bearings, if it runs noisily and possibly vibrates it might need a new set of bearings. 2. If it sounds like it has bit of an electrical hum or sounds labored may there is a pump problem overloading the motor and therefore drawing too much current and overheating. 3. Depending on the internal start and run circuit the start capacitor may have died or the centrifugal switch that switches between the start and run windings once it gets some RPM going may be malfunctioning. 4. It could just have a stator winding problem and need rewinding. Unfortunately the last 3 options need some electrical test instruments and will need to open the motor up to see what design it is. Your best bet is to take it to your local rewind shop and get them to check it for you. A rewind may be just as expensive as a new motor these days $300 to $400
Remove rewind then flywheel.Lower rewind housing bolt may be a little tough to get out being its on the bottom.Flywheel needs to removed with standard 3-bolt puller and may make a load pop when comes loose.Housing around stator needs to be removed,4 allen bolts hold this in place.Do not install flywheel until stator housing is bolted back in place.After you removed everything be sure to check and see if hood harness was routed under rewind housing because in the past a few had the wires smashed from engine pinching wires between stator housing and main frame.Best place to buy stator from is Dennis Kirk,$213,just did one on my 99 ZL600.