Question about 2006 BMW R 1200 RT

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Sold my R1100RT for that very problem, replaced the bearings and seals twice, didn't hold up for more than 20k miles. If you tow a trailer or ride two up with luggage I believe the rear drive bearings just won't take it for more than about 50k miles. But that is my experience and it could be that you just got a bike that had wheelies done on it if you bought it used! :)

Posted on Oct 08, 2009

  • R1100 Jan 21, 2011

    My R1100Rt has 113,000 miles on it and is still on the original final drive. I ride it hard but do not do silly boy things like wheelies. I did hear the R1200RT has a weak rear drive because BMW farmed the manufacture out to China.
    What BMW obviously haven't realised is; this sort of practice will destroy their good name. The old 'greedy eye' of the accountants, moves in to topple another quality manufacturer. Once you lose a good reputation, its a long time coming back. If ever!!



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There is a grinding noise in the rear end

Could be problems with the rear axle; final drive carrier bearings or crown wheel and pinion or the pinion bearings. Each of these can produce a load sensitive noise.

After a thorough inspection of the propellor shaft, axle mountings and so forth I suggest you draw an oil sample from the axle into a sight glass. If the sample is metalised the internal components should be exposed for further examination.

Jan 22, 2016 | Nissan Pickup Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Just changed primary gaskets and all seals on this side i have oil dripping never been in gear just started up could it be crank breather problem

Did you change the seals behind the front belt drive pulley? The front pulley is made of cast iron and the final drive gear is made of hardened steel. It's specifically made this way so that the pulley wears instead of the expensive and difficult to replace final drive gear. When the splines in the pulley wear, the pulley loosens up and the tension on the "quad" seal behind the spacer is lost. This allows transmission oil to run down the splines of the final drive gear. Check the oil level in your transmission and see if it's low. When you start the engine or ride the bike, it'll leak a spot about the size of a half dollar. If you wipe that up, it will not leak anymore unless you start the engine or ride the bike. You'll have to pull the front pulley off to check the splines for wear. If they are worn, Harley makes a kit to repair this with.

Now, it could still be the seal in the backside of the primary. A lot of people make the mistake of putting this seal in and assembling the primary with the seal left dry. When the engine starts, the mainshaft starts to turn and the friction burns the lip of the seal up before oil can get to it. The seal is destroyed in the first ten seconds or shorter. When you replace the seal, always put a gasket sealer around the outside of the seal and put some oil or light grease on the lips of the seal before you assemble it.

It's not your crankcase breather as that is at the top of the heads. The two large bolts that hold the air filter backing plate on are hollow and the crankcase breathes through these bolts into the air cleaner.

Good Luck

Apr 02, 2011 | 2003 Harley Davidson FXDWG Dyna Wide Glide

1 Answer

Hi i have a xvz1300tf feels like tyres are low but up to presure recomended 2.5 bar on rear but still feels low ?

You will get better handling and better tread wear if you run a higher pressure. 35-36 PSI works good. You are also dealing with a shaft drive . They can be pretty hard on there wheel bearings. The final drive bearings should be alright but I would replace any other bearings on the front and rear wheels. Worn wheel bearings can make the bike feel loose or like the tire pressure is too low.

Feb 07, 2011 | 1996 Yamaha Royal Star XVZ 1300 A

1 Answer

Gear oil is leaking from the seal in rear drive behind the wheel is this difficult to repar

While it is not difficult to replace the seal, this usually indicates that the main bearing in the final drive has failed and pushed out/damaged the seal causing the leak.

Put bike on center stand and hold rear wheel with both hands and 12 and 6 O'clock positions. Try to move wheel by pushing towards the side of the bike in each direction. If wheel moves more than 1-2mm then you need to have final drive repaired. You can also remove drain plug at the bottom of the final drive and see if any metal particles drain out with the oil. Use a small drain pan to catch the oil.

Sorry, but likely not an easy seal replacement to fix this problem.

Sep 11, 2010 | 2002 BMW R 1150 RT (ABS)

1 Answer

R1100s 2000 65000miles After a 30min or more run upon stopping a clicking noise comes from the rear of the bike as the suspension moves. This has gone the next morning when the bike is cold.

Possibilities include:

-worn shock bushings
-worn/faulty bearings at final drive pivot point

If you have a center stand for your bike, you can do some diagnostic work yourself with the bike on the ctr. stand.

Try moving the wheel while holding it at 12 and 6 and 9 and 3 O'clock positions. Listen/feel for clicking. This would indicate a loose or defective final drive pivot bearings.

Lift the wheel from the 12 o'clock position and see if the click noise comes from the shock bushings.

Very hard to diagnose without a center stand or service stand.

Good Luck

Sep 08, 2010 | BMW R 1100 S Motorcycles

2 Answers

I have a 2000 650 vstar classic..the drive shaft just spins. wht could the issue be?

If you are putting the bike in gear while it is running, and the drive shaft is spinning but the cycle is not moving forward, then you have a broken or stripped gear in the final drive. Try draining the hypoid gear oil and open the fill cap to inspect for damage and metal chips.Your best option is going to be to replace the final drive assembly. You may be able to purchase all the parts to rebuild the old one , but all the bearings and gears may cost as much as the whole assembly.A good option may be to look for a good used one.

Sep 07, 2010 | Yamaha V Star Classic Motorcycles

1 Answer

2000 FLHR-FLHRI Road king: my son is looking at a 1995 road king with 23,000 ...

Base gaskets leaks, rocker box gasket leaks. Final drive belt wear Final drive belt sprocket wear Loose/worn steering head bearings Check spokes if wheels have them Check under seat for damage to frame/surrounding area from leaky battery Check all turn signals/horn/brake lights, high/low beam, tires Test drive bike Check VIN for modification Check VIN with local police to make sure not stolen Make sure title is clear and transferable

May 17, 2010 | 2000 Harley Davidson FLHR-FLHRI Road king

1 Answer

Final drive oil seal replacement

The problem is that the engine, or swing arm should be removed in order to make his job easy . Make sure that the bearing behind the seal doesn't have play side to side . I don't think you could get enought room to slip the new seal over the shaft by removing the final drive unit at the rear wheel, the locking bolt under the rubber boot behind the seal,and sliding the drive shaft assembly back into the swing arm cup . If you have to pull the swing arm off, it would be a good time to re-pack the bearings with moly grease . The old seal just prys out, and the new seal must be tapped in evenly . Do not distort the seal . Try to find something round that fits the seal to tap opon . I have used plastic pipe . J

Jul 29, 2009 | 1982 Honda CX 500 B

1 Answer

Final drive has noise coming from it and gear box

i have one of these,check the oil level in the final drive and the colour,replace with good quality 80-90 gear oil,if the noise doesnt go away you may find that one of the bearings in the final drive is worn,often what happens on these bikes is that because the final drive is virtually maint free people dont change the oil and the oil becomes contaminated with particles from the crownwheel,pinion,and bearings and the bearings will evetually fail,i change the final drive oil on mine every time i do the engine oil change and after125000km is still dead quiet

Jun 17, 2009 | 1982 Suzuki GS 650 G Katana

2 Answers

When should I lubricate the final drive?

Hi and welcome to FixYa,

Offhand, re-lubrication would depend on how often the bike is used as well as distance traveled. Normal usage would require at least once a year. Of course when greasing the driveshaft, might as well change/fill differential oil. Not really that difficult, other than the 8 bolts on the differential, the challenge is fitting back in the driveshaft to the gearbox output spline.

Good luck and Thank you for using FixYa.

Jan 05, 2009 | 1989 BMW K 75 S

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