I have a kfx400 ..just did the top end over timeing chain rings etc...but the oil from the tank is gettin into the motor but not cirrculating back to the tank....i change the oilfilter n checked the lines.. can uyou help me out
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after you have cleared all the obvious stuff aka; bar hole, oil outlet, etc, look inside the oil tank to find the oil pipe and screen, if they are intact and not clogged the "O" rings on the adjuster are bad. If not clean the little screen and replace the oil pickup tube, yes they are still avalible. It's a bit tricky but can be done through the oil fill cap hole.
The only oil you need for your electric chain saw is "Bar and Chain" oil...specially formulated oil sold at Loews,HomeDepot,Ace Hardware, Auto parts stores,etc...
You use this oil to lubricate the chain and bar of your chainsaw when you are using it.
It will go into the oil tank and auto feed to the chain and bar...but keep a check on the oil level to make sure it is being used.
Refill tank when needed.
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Remove the fuel hose from inide the fuel tank and replace the fuel filter, remove the top cover and clean the air filter, now try again, the chain oil is delivered to the top of the bar and is taken around the bar by the drive links, make sure you are useing a non fling chain oil, remove the guide bar and clean out the delivery hole, now try again.
Release the chain brake and remove the bar and chain. Clean the engine area where the bar fits to, then start the engine--oil should ooze out of the side port. In that case, clean the bar drive-end small oil passages that run from the large holes out to the chain groove on each edge. These passages commonly plug with sawdust/dirt over time and cause greatly reduced oil to the chain/bar. When all is back together, run the saw at speed with the bar tip near some cardboard--it should throw off a thin line of oil after a moment or two of running. Adjust the oil volume screw to achieve that result. Hope this helps!
Remove the bar and chain. Clean the engine side case where the bar fits. Does the oil port itself leak or is it coming from the engine case? If from the case, it may be a loose or split line from the tank or it could be a cracked oil tank. If the tank is cracked, replace it as there is no glue or epoxy that can permanently repair it. If the leakage seems to have stopped, clean the drive end of the bar including the two small oil passages that run out to the chain groove. Re-assemble the bar and chain, then run the bar tip at speed near some cardboard for a few moments--it should throw off a thin line of oil. This saw should have an oil volume adjustment screw located near the chain return area on the back or underneath the case. Adjust CW to reduce the oil volume. Hope some of this helps!
Depending on your knowledge and experience - 1. Find your manual and check on maintenance routines. 2. If no manual avail - clean your saw and your bar. Bar - oil holes clear, groove clean etc Saw - locate where the oil pumps out - ensure any guides, holes etc are clean. 3. If saw gas manual oil pump adjustment screw -advance the flow 4 Drain the oil tank checking for dirt etc and if necessary clean tank with a little of your fuel. 5.Refill oil tank AFTER it is clean and dry. 6. Replace bar/chain etc and test if flow is better If still no good you may need to repair/replace oil pump -not that hard to do but if in doubt take it to a reputable dealer.
If you take the top off of the tank you will see a lever about 12 inches long that the flush handle moves up and down. To this is attached one end of a small chain. The other end of the chain is attached to the actual flush valve (which might be a flapper or a plastic column. The chain is probably getting a little tangled so that it does not allow the flush valve to return all of the way back down. You can confirm this by waiting until it happens again, then remove the tank top and look before you jiggle the handle. You might be able to remedy this by moving the hook on the end of the chain that is getting tangled. However, I have had better luck by replacing the chain with a flexible, but durable cable. I happened to have some large o-rings, which I cut, then put a knot in each end (after installation). Nylon string might work, but be sure to fuse the ends with a match. If you want to try the o-ring idea, go to any automotive service shop and ask them for a large o-ring, about the size that are used on disc brake pistons.
Remove the side cover, bar and chain. Clean the side oil port and any passages connected. Use compressed air to blow out the oiling passages in the drive end of the bar including the small ports that connect the chain guide slot to the larger holes in the bar. Run the motor for a short time without the bar and chain, there should be oil that oozes out of the side port. If not, then the pump, the filter in the oil tank, and the intervening oil line needs to be checked. When everything is back together, the far end of the bar should throw off a fine line of oil on a piece of cardboard after running for a little while. Hope this helps!
Rebuild the top end. Rings are stuck to the pistons. Grind the valve seats in the process. You have now eliminated the smoking and some of the bog.
Now clean the carbs and install kits. Thoroughly servicing the carbs will eliminate the bog.
Clean or replace the air filter, change engine oil > 10w40 motor oil. Lube and adjust the chain and all cables. Install a fresh set of stock NGK spark plugs and check for spark. Balance and sync the carbs. Be certain the battery is good and strong. Lastly, remove the water trap from the bottom of the gas valve,( petcock ). If the bowl has any water and or rust in it, clean it out. Now remove the entire fuel petcock and clean it up so gas can flow freely. Clean up the inside of the tank as best possible. Re-assemble the petcock etc.,
Doing the above will put you back on the road for a very long time.
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After these bikes have set for a period of time the oil in the oil tank drains to the lower end of the engine and when started after sitting the oil is usually forced out of the vents for crankcase; which on many of these bikes is through the primary and possibly to the chain oiler etc. Usually after running for a few minutes the oil is back in the oil tank and over supply to the oiler stops! Could possibly soak the clutch plates if it filled primary case also. Be sure and check oil level in tank?! If you added oil before starting it will now be overfilled after starting. This is common problem and will mend it self usually. Does make a mess in the garage toooooooo! Jesse "Leroy" Graves