Cannot remove rear axle. Is it seized in or is there something I can't see? This bike has been sitting for a long time and I think the axle is maybe rusted in. I can't beat it out and I can't push it out with a puller. Am I missing a lockring or something?
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Re: cannot remove rear axle on dr 370 suzuki
Just a big nut on one end. Sounds like its frozen in, as there is a metal "tube" in the center of the wheel between the wheel bearings, and if it's never been greased, I'm sure it's rusted in. Lots of patience and spray rust solvent in, and let it sit, repeat... This may help.
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-Hoist bike up on a stand (lift)Take off 3 bolts holding the drive to the torque tube. Loosen exhaust mounting if required to access the axle bolt.-Take off the Passenger side swing arm- take off axle bolt and drive it out. slide wheel sideways to remove from bike.
It sounds like the axle (bolt) is corroded/rusted inside the wheel. If this is in fact true you need to carefully drive it out with a proper (best a brass, to avoid axle etc damage) punch and as that will damage (brinell) the wheel bearings you would then have to change them also. Many manufacturers advise to apply anti-seize to the axle when it is installed but on many which I have disassembled with seized axles they were so lubricated and it appears that if you use bearing grease instead there is not axle corrosion and seizing.
The first thing is that the bike must be raised up enough to remove the wheel. You must remove the rear brake caliper, axle and then slide the rear wheel assembly to the right side of the bike off of the splines. This is not an easy task as you must support the wheel squarely while you are sliding to the right side of the bike.
The axle cover in the middle of the final drive on the left side just covers the axle end and can be pryed off. The axle will slide out from the right to the left.
order to remove the rear wheel assembly, you are going to need a
motorcycle lifting jack stand or similar device.
1. Stand the bike on the side stand
On the left side of the rear wheel:
2. Remove the 2 froward facing bolts.
3. Remove the allen head bolt with the wide head.
On the right side of the rear wheel:
4. Remove the brake adjuster nut on the end of the actuating lever.
5. Remove the Toque link nut at the bottom of the wheel assembly.
6. Remove the axle nut (castle nut and cotter pin).
7. Place the motorcycle jack under the swing arm or chassis tubes to
stabilize the rear end.
8. Remove the axle.
9. Remove the axle from the splined drive gear and place the wheel
assembly on the ground.
10. Pull the wheel assembly rearward.
Jack the rear of the bike as high as you can safely get away with. The rear fender makes you require a lot of clearance to get the wheel clear of the bike.
Make note of the protrusion of the rear brake actuator rod and remove it from the actuator arm. Remove the bolt from the rear brake plate anchor arm.
Remove the plastic cover from the left side of the axle.
Remove the cotter pin from the axle end, then remove the nut by holding it with a wrench while turning the left end of the axle with a socket. You may need to tap the right end of the axle to start it moving out, and this is a tight area because of the pipes, but it should not take too much coercion. Once it begins to budge, you should be able to work it out from the left side. Remove the axle spacer.
While supporting the wheel ( I use my auto jack for this), wiggle the wheel until the drive unit splines disengage. You are now ready to work the wheel out from under the fender. There is a sleeve inside the drive end of the wheel, try not to let it pop out and get dirty. Don't forget to grease those drive splines when reinstalling, and to restore the brake rod to its former setting, unless you are adjusting it at the same time.
Forget what the users manual says .... You will need a bike jack, put it on the jack and if you have a stock exhaust you will have to remove the top pipe to get access to the axle nut. simply remove the axle nut, the brake linkage and slide the axle out, next I think there was a spacer to take out and slide the wheel off the final drive gear spline, jack the bike very high and slide the wheel out.
Don't worry about the metric size. Just call a Suzuki parts department and tell them Year and Model of your bike and see if they have a nut in stock. The nut is what is called a "castle nut". There should be a cotter pin inserted through the castle and through the drill hole in the axle then spread around the nut. This keeps the nut from coming loose.
I believe the part number for the nut is 09159-12027
The cotter pin number is 04111-25308