Dryer won't start. Tried a new start button, then tried a new thermal fuse. Any suggestions?

I put a link some issue which will cause a no start.
I notice you changed the fuse it gives some things to check if the thermal fuse is blown.
https://www.repairclinic.com/RepairHelp/How-To-Fix-A-Dryer/1-3--/GE-Dryer-won-t-start

J'Ton, may be a faulty thermal limit fuse. See links below.

Dryer Won Start Samsung Dryer Thermal Fuse Replacement Part DC47 00016A

Troubleshooting Why Your Dryer Won Start PartSelect com

How to Fix Clothes Dryer That Won Turn On

see this causes and fix it. God bless you
Timer The timer is normally not at fault when the dryer won't start. In many situations where timers are replaced they end up being returned. First, check all of the more common components in this troubleshooting guide before replacing the timer. If the dryer won't start, the cause is much more likely to be a thermal fuse or switch. The timer can not be tested, it must be replaced if it is defective.
Main Control Board The main control board is normally not at fault when the dryer won't start. First, check all of the other components in this troubleshooting guide before replacing the main control board. The main control board can not be tested and must be replaced if it is defective. If there are obvious signs of burning or a shorted out component on the board, it should be replaced.

Belt Switch If the dryer won't start, there might be a belt switch that has failed. This is not a common problem and most dryers do not have this switch. If the dryer has a belt switch, the switch shuts off power to the entire dryer if the belt breaks. It is possible that this switch has failed, even if the belt is not broken. It can be checked with an ohm meter or continuity checker. If the dryer works at all, even if all it does is hum, this is not the problem.

Incoming Power Problem If the dryer won't start, check to certain there is electricity to the dryer. For a gas dryer, unplug the dryer from the wall and plug something else into the outlet to see if it's working. For an electric dryer, check the home circuit breaker or fuses. If they are working, check the outlet where the dryer plugs in with a volt meter. There should be between 208 and 240 volts. If there is power to the dryer, check the more common items in this troubleshooting guide.

Thermal Cut Out Fuse Kit Most dryers have several temperature control devices such as a thermal fuse, thermal cut out, high limit fuse or high limit thermostat. Some manufacturers sell the thermal fuse and thermal cut out in a kit. These kits normally solve no-heat problems rather than when the dryer won't start. However, in some models, this kit will solve both problems. Even though this is not the most common part to fail if the dryer won't start, both can be checked using an ohm meter or continuity checker. If they have continuity they are good. If not, they should be replaced.

Drive Belt On most dryers, if the drive belt breaks the motor can still be heard and it will still be blowing air out the exhaust tube, but the drum will not spin. However, in some dryers when the drive belt breaks the tension pulley arm trips a switch which shuts off power to the entire dryer. If the dryer won't start, check to see if the belt is broken. If it is, replace the belt and the dryer should be fine. If the belt is not broken, check the other components that can fail when the dryer won't start.

Drive Motor The dryer drive motor turns the drum and the blower wheel to exhaust the air. If the dryer won't start the motor might be defective. Before replacing the motor, check the thermal fuse, start switch and door switch because all three are more likely the cause. If the dryer won't start and the dryer motor makes a humming noise there might be something caught in the blower wheel, or the drum might be binding. Try removing the belt from the motor and checking the blower wheel for obstructions. The dryer motor can't be tested easily. If the more common components have been checked and it seems the motor itself is defective, it will need to be replaced. It is not serviceable.

Door Switch The door switch is located near the dryer door and is activated when the door is closed. If the door switch fails, the dryer won't start at all. Many types of door switch will make an audible click when they are activated. If the door switch makes a clicking sound when activated it is probably not defective. If it doesn't make a click, it can be checked with an ohm meter or continuity checker. The door switch is relatively easy to replace and is usually not very expensive.

Start Switch The start switch is on the dryer control panel. Depending on the model, either press a button or turn a dial to start the dryer. If the start switch fails the dryer won't start or make any noise. Test the switch with an ohm meter or continuity checker. If the dryer hums when the start switch is activated, or if the motor runs only while activating the start switch, the motor might be defective or something might be binding the drum preventing it from turning freely. If the dryer start switch does not have continuity when it is activated, it will need to be replaced.
Thermal Fuse The thermal fuse helps to prevent a dryer fire by shutting off power to the dryer if it overheats. If the dryer won't start check this fuse first. Test the thermal fuse with an ohm meter or continuity checker. This is the most common part to fail when the dryer won't start. Once the thermal fuse has blown, it has to be replaced. It can not be reset.

see this causes and fix it.God bless you
Thermal Fuse The thermal fuse helps to prevent a dryer fire by shutting off power to the dryer if it overheats. If the dryer won't start check this fuse first. Test the thermal fuse with an ohm meter or continuity checker. This is the most common part to fail when the dryer won't start. Once the thermal fuse has blown, it has to be replaced. It can not be reset.

Start Switch The start switch is on the dryer control panel. Depending on the model, either press a button or turn a dial to start the dryer. If the start switch fails the dryer won't start or make any noise. Test the switch with an ohm meter or continuity checker. If the dryer hums when the start switch is activated, or if the motor runs only while activating the start switch, the motor might be defective or something might be binding the drum preventing it from turning freely. If the dryer start switch does not have continuity when it is activated, it will need to be replaced.
Door Switch The door switch is located near the dryer door and is activated when the door is closed. If the door switch fails, the dryer won't start at all. Many types of door switch will make an audible click when they are activated. If the door switch makes a clicking sound when activated it is probably not defective. If it doesn't make a click, it can be checked with an ohm meter or continuity checker. The door switch is relatively easy to replace and is usually not very expensive.

Drive Motor The dryer drive motor turns the drum and the blower wheel to exhaust the air. If the dryer won't start the motor might be defective. Before replacing the motor, check the thermal fuse, start switch and door switch because all three are more likely the cause. If the dryer won't start and the dryer motor makes a humming noise there might be something caught in the blower wheel, or the drum might be binding. Try removing the belt from the motor and checking the blower wheel for obstructions. The dryer motor can't be tested easily. If the more common components have been checked and it seems the motor itself is defective, it will need to be replaced. It is not serviceable.

Drive Belt On most dryers, if the drive belt breaks the motor can still be heard and it will still be blowing air out the exhaust tube, but the drum will not spin. However, in some dryers when the drive belt breaks the tension pulley arm trips a switch which shuts off power to the entire dryer. If the dryer won't start, check to see if the belt is broken. If it is, replace the belt and the dryer should be fine. If the belt is not broken, check the other components that can fail when the dryer won't start.

Thermal Cut Out Fuse Kit Most dryers have several temperature control devices such as a thermal fuse, thermal cut out, high limit fuse or high limit thermostat. Some manufacturers sell the thermal fuse and thermal cut out in a kit. These kits normally solve no-heat problems rather than when the dryer won't start. However, in some models, this kit will solve both problems. Even though this is not the most common part to fail if the dryer won't start, both can be checked using an ohm meter or continuity checker. If they have continuity they are good. If not, they should be replaced.
Incoming Power Problem If the dryer won't start, check to certain there is electricity to the dryer. For a gas dryer, unplug the dryer from the wall and plug something else into the outlet to see if it's working. For an electric dryer, check the home circuit breaker or fuses. If they are working, check the outlet where the dryer plugs in with a volt meter. There should be between 208 and 240 volts. If there is power to the dryer, check the more common items in this troubleshooting guide.
Belt Switch If the dryer won't start, there might be a belt switch that has failed. This is not a common problem and most dryers do not have this switch. If the dryer has a belt switch, the switch shuts off power to the entire dryer if the belt breaks. It is possible that this switch has failed, even if the belt is not broken. It can be checked with an ohm meter or continuity checker. If the dryer works at all, even if all it does is hum, this is not the problem.

Main Control Board The main control board is normally not at fault when the dryer won't start. First, check all of the other components in this troubleshooting guide before replacing the main control board. The main control board can not be tested and must be replaced if it is defective. If there are obvious signs of burning or a shorted out component on the board, it should be replaced.

Timer The timer is normally not at fault when the dryer won't start. In many situations where timers are replaced they end up being returned. First, check all of the more common components in this troubleshooting guide before replacing the timer. If the dryer won't start, the cause is much more likely to be a thermal fuse or switch. The timer can not be tested, it must be replaced if it is defective.

see this causes and fix it. God bless you
Timer The timer is normally not at fault when the dryer won't start. In many situations where timers are replaced they end up being returned. First, check all of the more common components in this troubleshooting guide before replacing the timer. If the dryer won't start, the cause is much more likely to be a thermal fuse or switch. The timer can not be tested, it must be replaced if it is defective.

Main Control Board The main control board is normally not at fault when the dryer won't start. First, check all of the other components in this troubleshooting guide before replacing the main control board. The main control board can not be tested and must be replaced if it is defective. If there are obvious signs of burning or a shorted out component on the board, it should be replaced.

Belt Switch If the dryer won't start, there might be a belt switch that has failed. This is not a common problem and most dryers do not have this switch. If the dryer has a belt switch, the switch shuts off power to the entire dryer if the belt breaks. It is possible that this switch has failed, even if the belt is not broken. It can be checked with an ohm meter or continuity checker. If the dryer works at all, even if all it does is hum, this is not the problem.

Incoming Power Problem If the dryer won't start, check to certain there is electricity to the dryer. For a gas dryer, unplug the dryer from the wall and plug something else into the outlet to see if it's working. For an electric dryer, check the home circuit breaker or fuses. If they are working, check the outlet where the dryer plugs in with a volt meter. There should be between 208 and 240 volts. If there is power to the dryer, check the more common items in this troubleshooting guide.

Thermal Cut Out Fuse Kit Most dryers have several temperature control devices such as a thermal fuse, thermal cut out, high limit fuse or high limit thermostat. Some manufacturers sell the thermal fuse and thermal cut out in a kit. These kits normally solve no-heat problems rather than when the dryer won't start. However, in some models, this kit will solve both problems. Even though this is not the most common part to fail if the dryer won't start, both can be checked using an ohm meter or continuity checker. If they have continuity they are good. If not, they should be replaced.

Drive Belt On most dryers, if the drive belt breaks the motor can still be heard and it will still be blowing air out the exhaust tube, but the drum will not spin. However, in some dryers when the drive belt breaks the tension pulley arm trips a switch which shuts off power to the entire dryer. If the dryer won't start, check to see if the belt is broken. If it is, replace the belt and the dryer should be fine. If the belt is not broken, check the other components that can fail when the dryer won't start.

Drive Motor The dryer drive motor turns the drum and the blower wheel to exhaust the air. If the dryer won't start the motor might be defective. Before replacing the motor, check the thermal fuse, start switch and door switch because all three are more likely the cause. If the dryer won't start and the dryer motor makes a humming noise there might be something caught in the blower wheel, or the drum might be binding. Try removing the belt from the motor and checking the blower wheel for obstructions. The dryer motor can't be tested easily. If the more common components have been checked and it seems the motor itself is defective, it will need to be replaced. It is not serviceable.

Door Switch The door switch is located near the dryer door and is activated when the door is closed. If the door switch fails, the dryer won't start at all. Many types of door switch will make an audible click when they are activated. If the door switch makes a clicking sound when activated it is probably not defective. If it doesn't make a click, it can be checked with an ohm meter or continuity checker. The door switch is relatively easy to replace and is usually not very expensive.

Start Switch The start switch is on the dryer control panel. Depending on the model, either press a button or turn a dial to start the dryer. If the start switch fails the dryer won't start or make any noise. Test the switch with an ohm meter or continuity checker. If the dryer hums when the start switch is activated, or if the motor runs only while activating the start switch, the motor might be defective or something might be binding the drum preventing it from turning freely. If the dryer start switch does not have continuity when it is activated, it will need to be replaced.

Thermal Fuse The thermal fuse helps to prevent a dryer fire by shutting off power to the dryer if it overheats. If the dryer won't start check this fuse first. Test the thermal fuse with an ohm meter or continuity checker. This is the most common part to fail when the dryer won't start. Once the thermal fuse has blown, it has to be replaced. It can not be reset.

Several different problems could prevent your dryer from running. Make sure that the door is firmly closed and hold down the start button for a couple of seconds to start the dryer. If you hear a click from the control board then the door switch and the control board are likely okay. You could have a blown thermal fuse or a broken belt in the dryer. To check these components,unplug the dryer and remove the bottom front service panel as shown in the first image below. With this panel removed, you can tell whether the drive belt is broken. If the drive belt is okay, I recommend checking the thermal fuse. This fuse is located on the blower housing as shown in the second image below. It will have light blue wires attached. To test the fuse, remove one wire and measure the resistance across the leads of the fuse with a volt/ohm meter. You should measure near zero ohms of resistance (continuity). If you measure infinite resistance, then the fuse is blown and will need to be replaced. You can verify that this is your failure by taping the contacts of the light blue wires together with electrical tape to "bypass" the thermal fuse. Reassemble the dryer and see if the motor runs with this fuse bypassed. If it does, then this verifies that the blown thermal fuse prevented the dryer from running and that this was the only failure. NOTE: Do not continue to run the dryer beyond this brief test with the thermal fuse bypassed. This component must be replaced. It is an important safety feature of the dryer.

You can order a new thermal fuse from the Sears PartsDirect website. The part number is 3392519.

Here is a good link for basic troubleshooting... But 10 to one the culprit is a thermal fuse or thermal cut off.... they are usually pretty cheap and easy to replace....

http://www.partselect.com/dryer+dryer-wont-start+repair.htm

One final note on these: if you find your thermal fuse\cut off (or element) open, before replacing it, be sure to check the airflow out your dryer's vent system. Even though these devices do 'wear out' with age, poor airflow's the #1 cause of failure of these devices, and if your vent's partially clogged, a new thermal won't last very long, but will do its job again, and leave you 'cold' (a new element won't last long if the vent's clogged, either).

More info and pics:

http://www.davesrepair.com/DIYhelp/DIYthermalfuses.htm

first check the door switch,push the paddle in and out,if it doesn't click you have a bad door switch.if that's ok check the thermal fuse,if the filter is on top of the dryer the fuse is in the back if the filter is inside the fuse is in the front located on the blower wheel housing.if it's the thermal fuse most likely you need to clean out the dryer.remove and clean out the duct that the lint filter slides into,vac out the inside of the dryer where the motor is and clean out the vent line and the vent outside.if it's a long run from the back of the dryer to the outside i use a leaf blower to blow out the vent line.the part number will be a 3392519 if it's a round thermal fuse it will be a 3390719,these are the most common thermal fuses,next time send the model number and i can look up your machine,let me know how you make out.if you don't clean the dryer the fuse will pop again

IF THERE IS A RESTRICTION IN THE EXHAUST(LINT BUILDUP OR FOLDED FLEX ATTACHED TO THE DRYER AND PUSHED UP AGAINST THE WALL) THE DRYER WILL NOT DRY PROPERLY. IF THE PROBLEM IS NOT FIXED, A THERMAL FUSE WILL OPEN SHUTTING DOWN THE CIRCUIT TO THE MAIN MOTOR. THE THERMAL FUSE IS A SMALL WHITE OBJECT LOCATED BEHIND THE BACK PANEL DOWN BY THE EXHAUST OUTLET. THERE ARE TWO WIRES ATTACHED TO IT. IF IT IS BAD, REPLACE IT AND CHECK THE DUCT WORK FOR ANY RESTRICTIONS.

PART COST APPROX 30 DOLLARS

Need more info. Check voltage at outlet. Check thermal fuse,
check thermal cut-off assy. Then you have question -what caused the thermal to fail? There are several.