Question about 1996 Suzuki GSF 600 N Bandit
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
I recently installed CRG levers on our 696. No boot to fiddle with on this model. You can see the Allen key on the back of the lever perch from the outside or bar end. Simply adjust the Allen screw in/out with an Allen socket and ratchet to a range of positions then check clutch engagement and drag via a few test starts. Too far one direction and the clutch hangs up while too far the other way can give you an off/off switch lacking in full engagement that is hard on the gearbox. Conservatively set after 15 minutes of adjusting and testing resulted in an incredible reduction in the distance that my wife had to reach her tiny hands. She was extremely pleased as this completely addressed her only real complaint and made it much easier to ride. I did take the more expensive route with the Termi cans, getting a bit of a break from my local dealer at about $1250. The upside I found was that there really is no need for the dealer to install the cans because re-mapping wasn't necessary as it was with my 1098. If you are capable of unbolting your gas tank (a gazillion Allen screws on the tank covers and three bolts on the tank) and have a spare set of hands available to hold it so you don't have to undo fuel lines it is fairly simple. It's a good idea to take the tank covers off so you can see where everything is hiding. While you are under there with the battery disconnected I recommend installing a battery charger pigtail so you can easily plug in a trickle charger for the off-season. I spent maybe two hours - less time than on the fender eliminator. Again as I found putting Termi cans on my1098 the 696 loses the irritating leanness, starts much easier (fast idle no longer necessary) and runs much cooler. Plus it's all covered under warranty. With the removable sound deadener inserts you have a much nicer sound in your choice of "mellow" and "heavy metal". In my mind it now sounds like a Duc is supposed to sound. One trick on the install: the new CPU caused my dash to switch to EU (km instead of miles). There is an excellent detailed thread on this site that shows how to change back to US settings. Takes about two minutes.
Posted on Nov 20, 2008
SOURCE: no clutch pressure.
Your clutch lever should have a cable connected to it. Trace it from the lever down to the engine and make sure nothing is disconnected or out of place. That big knurled knob next to the lever is the adjusment and locknut for cable tension. Loosen lock nut, srew cable away from lever until you have only 1/4 " of play between lever and the stop. You should feel tension coming back into the lever...If you have a bicycle ,it is the same drill for adjusting your brakes...look and see...it may help you understand the process...any bicycle mech can show you...maybe a neighbor...Good Luck to you friend....Tim
Posted on May 10, 2009
Adjust the clutch cable to allow about 1/4" free play at the end of the clutch handle. Don't put the bike in gear until the rpms are near idle speed. The clutch is working fine if the bike does not lurch forward when going into gear at idle speed. Dirty, gritty oil in the gearbox can make the clutch grab. Consider changing oil if grabbing is the problem. The "crunch" you hear is the slider gear engaging into the driven gear. The higher the engine speed when being put into gear the louder the crunch. The slider gear engaging "dogs" can break. Crunching into gear is hard on the gears.
Post a comment to let me know how you come out on this.
Posted on Jun 04, 2009
The clutch's plates must be stuck.Disassemble them and renew if necessary.The clutch lever should have 3mm freeplay and the spring's bolts should be tighten at 14Nm.
Posted on Jun 09, 2009
The clutch in your bike is a wet clutch. There is a lot of hyrdostatic friction even when the clutch is released completely. I think a large factor is the type, age and condition of oil. Perhaps something as simple as an oil change would help.
Posted on Jan 14, 2010
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