Question about 1996 Suzuki GSF 600 N Bandit

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My lever for my clutch doesnt pull forward 2 "activate my clutch" could anyone please help

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: Long clutch pull/engagment on 696?

I recently installed CRG levers on our 696. No boot to fiddle with on this model. You can see the Allen key on the back of the lever perch from the outside or bar end. Simply adjust the Allen screw in/out with an Allen socket and ratchet to a range of positions then check clutch engagement and drag via a few test starts. Too far one direction and the clutch hangs up while too far the other way can give you an off/off switch lacking in full engagement that is hard on the gearbox. Conservatively set after 15 minutes of adjusting and testing resulted in an incredible reduction in the distance that my wife had to reach her tiny hands. She was extremely pleased as this completely addressed her only real complaint and made it much easier to ride. I did take the more expensive route with the Termi cans, getting a bit of a break from my local dealer at about $1250. The upside I found was that there really is no need for the dealer to install the cans because re-mapping wasn't necessary as it was with my 1098. If you are capable of unbolting your gas tank (a gazillion Allen screws on the tank covers and three bolts on the tank) and have a spare set of hands available to hold it so you don't have to undo fuel lines it is fairly simple. It's a good idea to take the tank covers off so you can see where everything is hiding. While you are under there with the battery disconnected I recommend installing a battery charger pigtail so you can easily plug in a trickle charger for the off-season. I spent maybe two hours - less time than on the fender eliminator. Again as I found putting Termi cans on my1098 the 696 loses the irritating leanness, starts much easier (fast idle no longer necessary) and runs much cooler. Plus it's all covered under warranty. With the removable sound deadener inserts you have a much nicer sound in your choice of "mellow" and "heavy metal". In my mind it now sounds like a Duc is supposed to sound. One trick on the install: the new CPU caused my dash to switch to EU (km instead of miles). There is an excellent detailed thread on this site that shows how to change back to US settings. Takes about two minutes.

Posted on Nov 20, 2008

  • 200 Answers

SOURCE: no clutch pressure.

Your clutch lever should have a cable connected to it. Trace it from the lever down to the engine and make sure nothing is disconnected or out of place. That big knurled knob next to the lever is the adjusment and locknut for cable tension. Loosen lock nut, srew cable away from lever until you have only 1/4 " of play between lever and the stop. You should feel tension coming back into the lever...If you have a bicycle ,it is the same drill for adjusting your brakes...look and may help you understand the process...any bicycle mech can show you...maybe a neighbor...Good Luck to you friend....Tim

Posted on May 10, 2009

  • 3567 Answers

SOURCE: i have a suzuki rm 125 1994 model when i pull the

Adjust the clutch cable to allow about 1/4" free play at the end of the clutch handle. Don't put the bike in gear until the rpms are near idle speed. The clutch is working fine if the bike does not lurch forward when going into gear at idle speed. Dirty, gritty oil in the gearbox can make the clutch grab. Consider changing oil if grabbing is the problem. The "crunch" you hear is the slider gear engaging into the driven gear. The higher the engine speed when being put into gear the louder the crunch. The slider gear engaging "dogs" can break. Crunching into gear is hard on the gears.

Post a comment to let me know how you come out on this.

Posted on Jun 04, 2009

  • 408 Answers

SOURCE: 1998 kdx 200 clutch will not dis-engage

The clutch's plates must be stuck.Disassemble them and renew if necessary.The clutch lever should have 3mm freeplay and the spring's bolts should be tighten at 14Nm.

Posted on Jun 09, 2009

  • 194 Answers

SOURCE: kdx 200 clutch not engaging properly

The clutch in your bike is a wet clutch. There is a lot of hyrdostatic friction even when the clutch is released completely. I think a large factor is the type, age and condition of oil. Perhaps something as simple as an oil change would help.

Posted on Jan 14, 2010

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Gsx750 clutch cable

See if you can push the bike with it in gear and the clutch lever pulled in. If the clutch is stuck, push start the bike, jump on, get to about 10 mph, pull in the clutch lever and hit the rear brake hard. This will usually break a stuck clutch loose.

Mar 21, 2014 | 1988 Suzuki GSX 750 ES

1 Answer

Clutch not working?

About halfway down the clutch cable is an adjustment, covered by an accordian boot.

Slide the boot up out of the way, and at the adjuster, loosen the lock nut, and shorten the adjuster as short as possible.

Go back to the clutch pressure plate you seen under the primary cover.
In the center is an allen head screw with a lock nut around it.

Loosen the lock nut, and turn the allen head out about 1/2 - 3/4 turn.

Slowly turn it back in until you just feel it touch something. This is the adjustment screw touching the pushrod that moves the pressure plate out, to allow the clutch to release. Make sure the lock nut is unscrewed enough that it is not hitting the plate, causing the adjustment screw to feel like it stopped.

Again, with the adjustment screw JUST lightly touching, unscrew it 1/2 to 1 full turn.
Hole the screw from turning while you tighten the lock nut (about 20 ft/lbs torque, slightly more than spark plugs).

Now, go back to the cable adjuster, and unscrew it so the adjuster lengthens.
You want to adjust it so there is just a little free play at the clutch lever.
At the clutch lever, pull the cable away from it just enough to remove any free play. You're NOT trying to pull the cable off! LIGHTLY pull just to remove slack!

Proper adjustment is when the gap created by the above (between cable end and clutch lever cable holder/mount) is 1/16" - 1/8", go back and tighten cable adjustment lock nut, while holding the adjuster from turning.
3 wrenches help, 2 in one hand to hold the two adjuster hexes, and a 3rd one to tighten the lock nut.

Pull the clutch lever 3-5 times to insure the clutch release ramp balls are seated, and recheck the cable gap at the clutch lever.

If this doesn't work, the clutch plates probably got "welded" together (not literally, but a term used to indicate they are stuck together).

Then you'll have to tear the clutch pack apart to free up/inspect the plates.
A special clutch diaphram spring tool is needed for this.

Mar 01, 2014 | 2004 Suzuki RM 125

1 Answer

Mulcher repair

follow this steps and fix it. God bless you


If the chainsaw chain does not engage the clutch assembly might be worn out. The clutch is similar to an automotive clutch. The chain sprocket is attached to the clutch drum and there are clutch pads underneath. As the pads wear out the clutch assembly no longer engages with the motor and the chain does not engage either.

Clutch Band kit

Chainsaws are equipped with a clutch band, a steel band that wraps around the clutch drum and is activated by the emergency stop lever. If the lever does not disengage the chain does not engage. Check to be sure the stop lever is disengaged. Adjust the clutch band if necessary.
Enter your model number to see parts for your chainsaw.
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Drum Brake

Chainsaws are equipped with a clutch band drum brake, a steel band that wraps around the clutch drum and is activated by the emergency stop lever. If the lever does not disengage the chain does not engage. Check to be sure the stop lever is disengaged. If necessary, adjust the clutch band drum brake.5bf7a198-4466-44ee-8866-ccfc5b95f0ac.jpg

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1 Answer

Loosing power

  1. Power Wheelies
    • 1 Stand above the motorcycle with it running in neutral at the starting line of the track or one end of a long practice area. Pull in the clutch and shift the motorcycle into first gear.
    • 2 Begin rolling forward by rolling on the throttle smoothly and slowly letting out the clutch. When you are at a speed that is comfortable enough to put both feet on the pegs, lean forward on the bike and roll the throttle back quickly. Make this motion as fluid as possible so as not to overdo the wheelie. The front of the motorcycle will rise off the ground.
    • 3 Rev the motorcycle all the way to the red-line in first gear to pull the front of the motorcycle up into the air. This will not be a high or long wheelie, but is a great starting point. When you hit the red-line, pull in the clutch and shift to second. The front end will fall back down. Do not, for any reason, activate the front brake, while the front wheel is in the air, as this will cause the bike to crash upon contacting the pavement.
    Clutching Up
    • 4 Begin riding at a moderate pace in second or third gear. Be sure that you have plenty of space in front of you before beginning the execution of a "Clutch Up"
    • 5 Pull in the clutch as if to shift to the next gear but do not press the shift lever. Instead, rev the motorcycle by rolling back on the throttle smoothly and quickly. Let go of the clutch quickly (but as smoothly as possible) and lean forward to offset the power of the motorcycle.
    • 6 Repeat this maneuver multiple times to get comfortable with the motions. The front of the motorcycle may hop only slightly until you figure out the right amount of throttle and clutch to give the engine. Remember to never hit the front brake with the wheel in the air.
    • 7 Perform a proper wheelie by pulling in the clutch, revving the engine, leaning forward slightly and then dropping the clutch. Be sure to cover the rear brake with your right foot as it will keep the motorcycle from flipping if you give it too much gas.
    • 8 Hold the throttle at a steady position to keep the front wheel in the air. Bring the front wheel back down by pulling in the clutch or pressing softly on the rear brake.

Jan 16, 2013 | Suzuki GZ 125 Marauder Motorcycles

1 Answer

Honda CBF250 - When clutch pulled fully, switching Neutral to 1st Gear bike bounces forward

I think could two things. 1. A sticky clutch from being used for awhile. Are you starting it in gear with the clutch in or in neutral then engaging first. 2. You might need a slight adjustment on your clutch. Particully if there doesn't feel like much tension on the clutch lever.

Dec 03, 2012 | Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

I have a 2002 honda vt600c bought it from a guy that I watched ride it but after it sat over winter the clutch doesnt seem to work ..shift into 1st and it kills bike. any ajustments I can make or do

Sounds like the clutch plates may be stuck together. Happened to me after a long trip in the rain and bike sat for a few weeks after that. Had to take the cluch discs out and clean them

Mar 25, 2012 | 2004 Honda VT 600 C Shadow

1 Answer

How does the clutch cable release work under the clutch release cover?

The clutch cable hooks to the screw assembly. The assembly is bolted to the case. When the clutch lever is pulled in, the center part of the assembly, ( a giant screw mechanism ), pushes on the clutch rod which then pushes on the outer clutch pressure plate to separate the clutch plates. The clutch springs supply the pressure to push the clutch lever outward thus engaging the clutch to move forward. I hope this answers your question. Please rate my answer. Thanks.

A diagram of the entire bike and engine can be found at


Aug 06, 2010 | 1984 Suzuki Gs 550 L

1 Answer

2005 kdx 200 clutch not engaging properly

Assuming the clutch handle on the handlebar is adjusted properly, only three things will cause the problem.
  • Very dirty oil in the gearbox. The grit is causing the clutch to drag. Change oil, ride for an hour in the city then change oil again to flush out the grit.
  • Worn clutch lever (at gearbox). Lever is not moving the pusher far enough to fully disengage the clutch. A new lever would be needed.
  • Synthetic lubricant ( or oils with "special" additives), was put in gearbox. 10w40 motor oil should be used in the gearbox. Synthetics can swell the cork on the friction plates causing the clutch to drag. New friction plates will fix the problem.
The current amount of clutch drag is not enough to harness the power of an engine rev. That is why the clutch seems okay at higher revs. Please rate my answer. Thanks.

Jan 14, 2010 | 2005 kawasaki KDX 200

2 Answers

Coupling is stuck / sticks together

Is the bike shooting forward while you have the clutch lever pulled in or when you let it out? If it's when you let it out you have to do it slower and roll on the accelerator so that it doesn't stall. If you have the clutch lever all of the way in and it shoots forward you may need to see a mechanic... I'm sorry if this doesn't help much.

Nov 10, 2008 | 1977 BMW R 75-7

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