The bike stood for +-1 year.I replaced the battery now when i start it it only idles when the choke is open,but it does not idle smoothly when i open the throttle it dies,what could it be spark plugs or maybe dirt in the carb?any help will be much apreciated.
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My Harley is very slow to warm up, it also does not like to idle without choke unless it is good and warm. It could be the clogged filter was acting like a choke, but ruining your gas mileage. Now with air flowing smoothly the engine needs a bit of choke to idle. It should not need choke once it is fully warmed up unless your idle speed is set too low. With the engine hot, check RPM if you have a tach. If too low, adjust the idle speed at the carburetor. I suggest you find the adjustment while the engine is cold.
has the bike been stood a long period of mths ? if so drain all fuel and put new in ! if its a carb feed i recon to remove it and clean the jets etc as fuel goes off after 6mths ! when you say idle lever dont you mean choke ? P....
Hi, Anonymous if your bike has been sitting idle for months or years and you did not do any pre-storage maintenance I feel your pain it will probably have a dead battery and not want to start or if it starts it will not idle unless the choke is full on and run poorly then stall, here are the following steps necessary to complete in order to get your bike back to an acceptable running condition and in the future pour in a bottle of fuel stabilizer and injector cleaner for you FI folks at least 2 times a year and before storage.
1. If your battery was 2-3 years old when you last had the bike running you should replace it.
2. If you believe your battery might still be serviceable remove it from the bike and put it on a 1 or 2 amp trickle charger for 24 hours. If it is the old lead acid type with visible cells and acid levels fill each cell to the top line with distilled water and replace the caps, run the vent tube into a plastic or styrofoam cup, any cells that are cloudy/milky replace the battery.
3. After charging remove the leads and let the battery sit for a couple of hours then check the battery voltage with a volt meter, you should have 12.5 volts or more, any readings in the 11 volt range you need to do a proper "LOAD" test on the battery and replace as necessary, you may have 12.5 volts or better but little or zero amps, any readings in the 10 volt range you have a dead cell and the battery needs to be replaced.
4. Drain and flush fuel tank if it rusty there is a cheap and easy fix. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fUYr_7SwGms
5. Remove and inspect your air cleaner paper elements that are not oil soaked can be cleaned with a soft brush and low pressure compressed air, oil soaked elements must be replaced. Gause mesh and foam elements can be cleaned by soaking them in a container big enough to completely cover them with a solution of 1 gallon of water and 1 oz. of Dawn dishwashing liquid for small and medium size elements, for monster size double the formula and let soak for at least one hour then rinse with warm water shake off excess and let air dry, "WARNING" do not use compressed air as this will embed micro-sized dirt and road grime and destroy the mesh pattern and stretch foam elements out of shape just squeeze it like a sponge and let air dry, use a fan if you're in a hurry. When completely dry spray a very fine mist of air filter oil evenly around the whole element.
6. Remove the carburetors, disassemble and decontaminate with a "CARB DIP" or if you have EFI remove injectors and clean with carb spray and compressed air
7. Check intake manifold and seals for leaks and kracks.
8. Remove fuel valve and filter disassemble and clean as necessary, remove, clean, and inspect fuel and vacuum lines and replace as necessary.
9. Replace spark plugs with new ones and check for spark.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day. F3 won idle without choke CBR Forum Enthusiast forums for Honda CBR Owners http://www.beginnerbikers.org/showthread.php?18094-runs-only-on-choke-dies-when-given-throttle 1997 1998 Honda CBR1100XX Service Repair Workshop Manual Download Download... $15 http://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-honda Honda CBR1100XX Owner Manual
The rubber cover can be tightened or loosened to hold the choke lever in place. I like to set the rubber cover just tight enough to keep the choke out but if I start driving it starts to slip back in by itself. If you pull the plunger all the way out it will raise the idle and should be the best position for the initial start. You may find you have to touch/ twist the throttle just a teeny bit to get the first pop. Then run full choke for the first 10-20 seconds till the fast idle is steady. Then push in the choke till you have a slower more comfortable fast idle. At 45-60 seconds push the choke in just enough to keep it idling. It should be safe to slow drive with the choke out about a quarter of the way. Take the choke off completely when the bike will idle on it's own 1 to 2 blocks down the road. If the bike is still boggy on take off put enough choke back on to get a smooth take off , then while slowly cruising during warm up push the choke all the way back in. Take it easy till the engine is warm.
sounds like the carbs need cleaning...if its been stood for a while..petrol thats in the carbs goes off....so you will need to take the carbs of the bike & take the float bowls off to clean them out...& do the jets as well...has these have small holes in them .petrol goes threw these & gum up....thats why your bike wont rev!!..its not getting enuf petrol!!...hope this helps
headlight front signals some fuses; cleaned carbs; repainted.
When I received it it was hard to start. Had to kick it into submission and the choke plunger would not stay out.
I've since tightened up the choke plunger friction nut and reclamped it towards the carbs (after cleaning the carbs).
Problem #1: I can't remember exactly how the clamp is supposed to be positioned on the bottom of the cable: on the metal cylinder? On the indented part of it? And I have a rubber boot on the carb end of it; this boot just slides around and doesn't seem to even fit over the indented end of the metal cylinder.
Problem #2: High idle or no start problem: The only way I can get the bike to start cold is to unclamp the cable (tank off) and yank on the cable. As the bike warms up I let the cable go and clamp it down at the point where the choke plate/linkage/butterfly/whatever is completely closed at the carb and no rise in idle is happening. Then I have a nice idle at 1200 +- 100rpm.
While the bike starts right up when hot using this setup, it won't start cold unless I go through the rigamarole again.
If I clamp the cable in a position so that it will start cold next time, then once the bike warms up and I turn off the choke, the idle falls at 2500rpm. The choke plate is definitely still open at the carb.
It almost seems like the cable is wrong for the bike. I seem to need a larger variance in cable length between choke-on and choke-off. I wouldn't be surprised if the previous owners did something funky with aftermarket parts.
,sound like u got both---send it to the mechanic,,,