Question about 2005 Buell Firebolt XB12R

2 Answers

Have fitted new regulator, but, still does not charge. Need to check output at alternator terminals. Can you send me diagram please

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  • ian0718 Sep 08, 2009

    Hi, I just wondered if the wiring could be damaged before i replace the alternator.



    Ian

  • ian0718 Sep 09, 2009

    Thanks, Working on it.

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  • Master
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There is no diagram that I can send, you really don't need one. Just take a meter right to the +12 volt post on the battery. Check it with engine NOT running and record. Then, start bike and read voltage again. You should see it increase to +13.5 volts DC if Alt is putting out. That's it. If battery doesn't charge to around 12.8 to 13 volts (not running) then it's not taking a good charge and needs to be replaced. The main thing to watch for is the increase in voltage from not running, to running.

Posted on Sep 08, 2009

  • Craig Butler
    Craig Butler Sep 08, 2009

    I doubt you have wiring damage. More likely you just have a bad alternator.

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  • Buell Master
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If u measure the leads from the alternator stator the output should be around 18 volts unregulated at around 2000RPM, and yes the most common part to fail is the alternator.

Posted on Sep 08, 2009

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1 Answer

Changed the battery and alternator on my 2006 tundra still not charging. Runs 30 min. And dies . Any help ?


Go through the basics.
1 Make sure the alternator is charging (operating properly) by measuring the voltage between earth (battery negative) and the live terminal. It should be greater than 13 volts, less than 15V.
2 Make sure the regulator is being excited. Most modern alternators need to have the dash light working in order to send a minute current to the alternator regulator to kick it into life. If the dash light is out, (fused) the alternator won't work.
3 If the voltage from the alternator live terminal is good, check the voltage at the battery. It should be between 13.5 and 14.8 Volts. If this reading differs from the reading at the alternator output, you have a wiring issue.
4 Wiring issues may include but is not limited to:
a) bad connection at the battery terminal
b) bad connection at the main fuse,
c) bad connection at the starter motor. Some vehicles pick up the main power from the battery cable at the starter solenoid.
d) broken wire, bad connections on the main power lead connection terminals.
Happy hunting!

Mar 08, 2015 | 2006 Toyota Tundra

1 Answer

Alternator is new.battery is new. GMC Yukon is not charging. What could the problem be.


Not sure but I believe the GMC Yukon has an in line fuse in the charging line. If so the output of the alternator will not get to the battery. One way to check is to measure the voltage, when the engine is running. At above idle it should be over 13 volts. Then measure the battery voltage, it should be almost the same within 200 to 400 mVolts. If not the charging line is open. Also if the alternator charging terminal is the same as the battery (12 to 12.7V) while the engine is running, that again indicates the alternator internal regulator is bad. If you turn on the headlights with the engine running above idle and the alternator output drops over a volt or so, the alternator is bad. This measurement can be taken at the battery plus terminal or the alternator charging output.

Feb 10, 2015 | GMC Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

Why did my new battery die after acouple of rides on my 2000 v starclassic ?


Check alternator output and the regulator- the regulator may not be working and the battery got overcharged badly

Jul 15, 2014 | 2002 Yamaha V Star 1100 Classic

1 Answer

2nd newly rebuilt alternator burning out.


Due to the nature of the battery technology used with vehicles the alternator is mostly incapable of charging the battery. The car alternator is designed to keep a fully charged battery fully charged and to provide all the power for the car equipment.

The alternator charge rate is regulated by a voltage regulator. Because the alternator output is connected to the battery, the alternator and battery voltage will be the same and the voltage regulator monitors that voltage.

The lower the battery voltage the more output the alternator will produce in order to correct the situation but because a lead acid battery has a high internal resistance to accepting a charge the terminal voltage will quickly rise to the alternator regulated voltage and fool the alternator into thinking the battery is fully charged when the output will drop to the order of just a couple of amps.

Switch on the headlights or a similar load that will lower the battery voltage and the alternator will increase it's output again - but only by the amount of current the headlamps or other load is consuming.
It matters not what the alternator rated maximum output is, it is designed to provide only the necessary current and no more.

The only time an alternator should ever need to produce maximum output is when on a dedicated testbed and then only for a short duration to avoid damaging the unit. Testing the current output on a modern vehicle is not recommended except for the regulated voltage testing and a rule-of-thumb output test where all equipment is switched on and the engine speed raised while the battery voltage is monitored.

Most modern alternators use an internal voltage regulator but a few systems use a separate voltage regulator. No alternator rebuild would be complete without a regulator test and probably a new or replacement regulator, which is where the majority of charging system problems are, or the brush gear.
Assuming the wiring is ok, no alternator should suffer any harm if the voltage regulator and auxilliary diodes (if fitted) are in good order though fitting a defective or a discharged battery can cause it to overheat and be damaged.

The alternator usually just about stops producing an output when the battery voltage is in the region of 14.5/14.8 volts.
Your description indicates the voltage regulator is not working correctly - unless 40 amps was being consumed by the car equipment the alternator should not have been producing 40 amps.. I suggest you also have your battery tested

May 12, 2017 | 1988 Acura Legend

1 Answer

Is there a fuse on the old school golf for the alternator ? i have installed a new regulator but the alternator only charge 12.1v and when i remove the batery terminal the motor stalls please help


I assume a new regulator has pased QC and is OK. Is your volt meter accurate? Just a tip - we do not test alternator by removing terminal. That burns the alternator.

Are you getting the 12.1 v from alternator at alternator end or at the battery terminal? Check the connection between the + terminal on alternator and the battery. That wire might be disconnected at the starter motor.

Sep 27, 2011 | Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

There is a ground some were that is causeing the battery not to charge put new selinoid ,new battery,alternater,new key lock cylender check wirers fuses relay switches and battery still wont charge


It sounds like you have done a whole lot of replacing and not much "diagnosing". Did you chech for battery voltage at the alternator? There should be battey voltage at the large Black/Orange wire that is on the B+ terminal of the alternator. This wire should have voltage all the time. If there is no battery voltage, you most likely have a burned fusible link at the starter relay area.
There should also be voltage at the "S" terminal with the ignition on. If there is no voltage, then check for voltage at the "S" terminal of the voltage regulator. If there is no voltage at the "S" terminal on the voltage regulator then check the "I" terminal on the regulator for voltage.

NOTE: The voltage on the "S" terminal should be 1/2 that of the voltage on the "I" terminal.

If there is voltage on the "I" terminal, make sure your voltage regulator is grounded properly to the fender and retest to see if it is charging the battery. If it is still not charging, disconnect the regulator connector and connect a jumper between the "A" and "F" terminals of the connector. Start the engine. The alternator should now be charging the battery at high voltage (usually over 15 volts) If it does, replace your voltage regulator. If it does not, then you need to check your wiring between the voltage regulator and the alternator.

Please also review this article:

What Else Could Be Wrong?

Jun 15, 2011 | 1987 Ford F 150

3 Answers

2003 windstar alternator over charge I try 5 or 6 alternator diferent companie always the same problem go up to 18.80 v help me please


it should notgo over 14 1/2 volts.

Get free DTC codes scan from Autozone. I think you will get DTC code 1246 - System Voltage Malfuction.

The I (indicator) (BAT light) wire activates alternator field circuit.

The heavy B wire circuit sends current to the battery for charing and to run the car.

The S circuit helps control the amount of charge. I suspect yours is not controlling. This car has the PCM (engine computer) help control the output and turn the BAT light on when under or over charging.

SECTION 414-00: Charging System - General Information 2003 Windstar Workshop Manual
DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION Charging System This vehicle is equipped with a powertrain control module (PCM)-controlled "smart charge" charging system. The PCM-controlled charging system is a system whereby the PCM determines the optimal voltage setpoint for the charging system and communicates this information to the voltage regulator. The PCM-controlled charging system is unique in that it has two uni-directional communication lines between the PCM and the generator/regulator. Both of these communication lines are pulse-width modulated. The GEN COM line communicates the desired setpoint from the PCM to the voltage regulator and the GEN MON line communicates the alternator load condition to the PCM. The third pin on the voltage regulator, the A circuit pin, is a dedicated battery voltage sense line.
-------------------------------------
  • Charging system malfunction (high or low system voltage)
  • possible causes:
    • A circuit 35 (OG/LB).
    • A circuit fuse link.
    • B+ circuit 36 (YE/WH).
    • B+ circuit fuse links.
    • Generator.
    • PCM
    • GEN-COM circuit 586 (RD/PK).
    • GEN-MON circuit 585 (VT).
    -----------------------------------------------------------------------------------
    Generator The generator (10300) on this vehicle is monitored and controlled by the powertrain control module (PCM). The PCM monitors the voltage regulator and sends a duty cycle command back to the voltage regulator to regulate the amount of field current supplied to the generator. The generator has an internal voltage regulator. The generator and voltage regulator are installed as an assembly.
    --------------------------------------------------
    I'll send wiring diagram tomorrow.

    please rate

    May 20, 2011 | 2003 Ford Windstar

    1 Answer

    MTD yard Machine lawnmower,17hp Briggs And Stratton engine. Runs for about 15 or 20 minutes and stalls. It will not start again until I recharge the battery over night. Then only runs again for 15 or 20...


    yes it could be

    check your battery 1st , then check the stator a/c output

    • 10 or 16 Amps DC regulated for charging
    battery
    • Two black leads (C) from stator
    • Yellow connector (D) with two pin
    terminals
    • Two yellow leads (E) to regulator-rectifier
    (F)
    • One red lead (B) from regulator-rectifier
    to red connector output lead (A)
    • 10 and 16 Amp systems use the same
    stator, color coding and regulator-rectifier
    • Alternator output is determined by the
    flywheel alternator magnet size


    The stator and regulator-rectifier are the same
    for the 10 and 16 Amp systems. The system
    output is determined by the flywheel magnet
    size.
    Test Alternator Output
    1. Temporarily disconnect stator wire
    harness from the regulator-rectifier.
    2. Insert RED test lead (A, Figure 28) into the
    V ω receptacle in the meter.
    3. Insert BLACK test lead (B) into COM
    receptacle.
    4. Rotate selector to AC Volts position.
    5. Insert RED (A) and BLACK (B) test lead
    probes into output terminals (D & E) in
    YELLOW connector (C). (Test clip leads
    may be attached to either terminal).
    6. With the engine running at 3600 rpm, the
    output should be no less than:
    • 20 volts - 10 Amp System
    • 30 volts - 16 Amp System
    7. If No or Low output is found, check for
    bare wires or other defects. If wiring
    defects are not found, replace the stator.
    voltage depending on alternator type and magnet size

    then check the regulator / rectifier , make sure it is grounded properly

    make sure battery earth lead is good

    i suspect loss of bat voltage is letting the afterfire solenoid close off the main jet

    let me know model and type codes off engine & i will try help further

    cheers

    Aug 29, 2010 | Briggs & Stratton Garden

    2 Answers

    My contenintal wont hold a charge installed a new alternator and regulator where do i find the wires to check them


    remove the positive battery connection and check continuity from the cable terminal to the output on the alternator. you can go to autozone.com to view wiring diagrams. register and enter your car. then select repair guides. also, has the battery been tested and found good?

    Mar 23, 2010 | 1995 Lincoln Town Car

    2 Answers

    Wiring diagram for body mount voltage regulator


    http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/1993/index.html

    Aug 06, 2009 | 1995 Toyota Pickup

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