Question about 2004 Honda VT 1100 C2 Shadow Sabre

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Rear seat bolt boke on 2001 Honda Sabre

The small bolt at the rear that holds the seat w/ cap nut. Cap nut removes w/8mm wrench.Leaving me 1/8 stud in the hole w a few threads sticking above it.Smale gap between stud and hole.

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  • 269 Answers

Your solution unfortunately is not any fun. Use a very small high quality drill bit to drill into remaining part of bolt. Next take an "easy out" (extractor) and place in the hole and try to get it out that way. Sorry I don't know an easier way.

JP

Posted on Sep 08, 2009

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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2 Answers

How to remove the cylinder head on a 1999 5.7 Tahoe


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May 02, 2014 | 1999 Chevrolet Tahoe

1 Answer

Replace water pump on a 2008 TOyota Yaris


Can replace without removing alternator or dropping engine.
loosen alternator..will need to move back and forth..remove belt
remove punp pulley using 10mm wrench..use combo open and ring..short and long wrenches....loosen and remove bolt on ac lone support strap..slide forward then up...us thick drill bit to thread through..pulley wheel hole to jam the pulley wheel...then loosen eack of the 3 bolts on the pully wheel..remove...you now have access to 3 retaining bolts and 2 retaining nuts on water pump..loosen....they are hard to get to but they can be loosenned from the top...open drain plug on radiator...open radiator cap and reservoir cap to drain.....with all bolts and nuts removed pull off pump,,,protect the mating surface and move forward and left and down and forward..it will come out...gasket and seal the new one and replace....install and tighten bolts cross wise,,evenly..put on pulley wheel hand tighten 3 10 mil bolts..replace belt..tension to hold pulley then further tighten bolts...refill radiator and reservoir..massage hoses to remove air..close up..run engine.few seconds..undo fill cap refill..repeat till all ait gone..inspect pump for leaks..done

Mar 09, 2013 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

How to change rear ball joints on 2002 dodge stratus


Instructions
  1. Remove the Upper Control Arm
    • 1Disconnect the ground battery cable using a wrench.
    • Loosen the front wheel lugs located on the same side of the upper ball joint you need to replace. Use a lug wrench.
    • Raise that same front wheel off the ground using a floor jack and support the vehicle on a jack stand.
    • Finish removing the tire.
    • Take the cotter pin off the upper ball joint stud holding the steering knuckle arm. Use a pair of nose pliers.
    • Remove the castle nut from the upper ball joint stud using a wrench or ratchet, ratchet extension and deep socket.
    • Loosen the two bolts securing the back of the upper control arm to the mounting bracket. Use a wrench to hold the bolt head as you loosen the retaining nut with a ratchet and socket.
    • Pull the control-arm ball joint off the steering knuckle arm. You may need to use a Pitman arm puller to free the ball joint.
    • Finish removing the two bolts from the back of the upper control arm and lift the upper control arm off the vehicle.
    Install the New Upper Control Arm
    • Set the new upper control arm in place and install the two bolts and retaining nuts to secure the back of the upper control arm to the mounting bracket. Remember the bolt heads should point inward toward the shock absorber with the retaining nuts on the outside of the mounting bracket. Do not tighten the bolts yet.
    • 11Insert the control-arm ball joint on the steering knuckle arm and start the castle nut with your hand over the ball joint stud. Do not tighten the nut yet.
    • Tighten the two bolts on the mounting bracket to 67-foot lbs. (91 Nm) using a torque wrench. Hold the bolts with a backup wrench as you tighten the retaining nuts with the torque wrench.
    • Tighten the ball-joint castle nut to 45-foot lbs. (61 Nm) using the torque wrench, ratchet extension and deep socket.
    • Install a new cotter pin through the joint-ball stud hole using the nose pliers. If necessary, tighten the castle nut just a few degrees to clear the stud hole through one of the castle nut slots.
    • Mount the tire on the wheel assembly and install the wheel lugs using the lug wrench.
    • Lower the vehicle and finish tightening the wheel lugs.

May 31, 2012 | Dodge Stratus Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Trying to remove wheel stud rear do I have to remove disc if so do I remove large nut


remove the brake caliper and rotor to access the hub. now to remove bad wheel stud. knock old stud out with a hammer and punch or similar. when out, there should be enough room to slide new stud in from back of hub. With the new wheel stud in position through the hole, screw a couple of wheel bolts onto the stud. You'll use these to pull the new stud into place with a wrench or impact wrench. Simply tighten the bolts you put in place until the new wheel stud is fully seated. You can look on the back side of the hub to see when it is fully seated

Apr 06, 2011 | Jaguar S-Type Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

NEED HELP WITH TORQUE SPECS ON 1998 CHEVROLET SURBURBAN CYLINDER HEADS 5.7


Cylinder Head Removal & Installation 5.7L Engine To Remove:
  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2. Drain the engine coolant.
  3. Remove the air cleaner assembly.
  4. Remove the upper radiator hose.
  5. Remove both heater hoses.
  6. Disconnect spark plug wires at distributor cap.
  7. Remove distributor cap.
  8. Remove the coolant bypass hose from the water pump.
  9. Remove the drive belt. NOTE: It is not necessary to evacuate the A/C refrigerant.
  10. Remove the A/C compressor from the mounting bracket and set it aside.
  11. Remove the wiring bracket from the rear of the cylinder head.
  12. Disconnect the accessory bracket and slide forward.
  13. Remove the upper and lower intake manifold.
  14. Remove the exhaust manifolds.
  15. Remove the valve rocker arms and pushrods.
  16. Remove the power steering pump pulley.
  17. Disconnect the electrical connector from the power steering pump.
  18. Remove nuts attaching the power steering pump to the engine.
  19. Remove power steering pump mounting bracket bolts and nut.
  20. Slide power steering pump/bracket assembly forward and remove stud.
  21. Set power steering pump/bracket assembly aside.
  22. Disconnect the wiring bracket from rear of the right cylinder head.
  23. Remove the generator.
  24. Remove the oil indicator tube bracket bolt.
  25. Remove the generator mounting bracket.
  26. Remove the sixteen cylinder head bolts.
  27. Remove cylinder heads and gaskets.
  28. Clean all sealing surfaces.
To Install:
Right Side NOTE: Clean all dirt, debris, and coolant from the engine block cylinder head bolt holes. Failure to remove all foreign material may result in damaged threads, improperly tightened fasteners or damage to components.
NOTE: Do not use any type of sealant on the cylinder head gasket (unless specified).
  1. Clean the cylinder head bolt holes with a thread chaser and compressed air.
  2. Check the cylinder head locating pins for proper installation.
  3. Place a new cylinder head gasket over the engine block dowel pins.
  4. Install the cylinder head to the engine block.
  5. Apply sealant (GM P/N 12346004 or equivalent) to cylinder head bolt threads.
  6. Install the cylinder head bolts. gm-03-50-685.gif

  7. Tighten the cylinder head bolts in sequence on the first pass.
    • Torque to: 22 ft. lbs. (30 Nm)
  8. Using a torque angle meter, tighten the long bolts (1, 2, 5, 6, 9, 10 and 13) on the second pass in sequence to 75°.
  9. Using a torque angle meter, tighten the medium bolts (14 and 17) on the second pass in sequence to 65°.
  10. Using a torque angle meter, tighten the short bolts (3, 4, 7, 8, 11, 12, 15 and 16) on the second pass in sequence to 55°.
  11. Install the valve rocker arms and pushrods.
  12. Install the generator mounting bracket stud.
    • Torque to: 15 ft. lbs. (20 Nm)
  13. Loosely assemble the generator mounting bracket over the stud.
  14. Install all nuts and bolts finger tight.
    • Torque to: 30 ft. lbs. (41 Nm)
  15. Install the generator.
  16. Install the oil indicator tube bracket bolt.
  17. Install the exhaust manifold.
  18. Install the lower intake manifold.
  19. Install the valve rocker arm covers.
  20. Install the wiring bracket to the rear of the cylinder head.
  21. Connect the accessory bracket.
  22. Install the A/C compressor.
  23. Install the drive belt.
  24. Install the distributor cap.
  25. Connect the spark plug wires to the distributor cap.
  26. Install both heater hoses.
  27. Install the upper radiator hose.
  28. Install the air cleaner assembly.
  29. Refill the engine coolant.
  30. Connect the negative battery cable.
Left Side To Install:
NOTE: Clean all dirt, debris, and coolant from the engine block cylinder head bolt holes. Failure to remove all foreign material may result in damaged threads, improperly tightened fasteners or damage to components.
NOTE: Do not use any type of sealant on the cylinder head gasket (unless specified).
NOTE: Clean all dirt, debris, and coolant from the engine block cylinder head bolt holes. Failure to remove all foreign material may result in damaged threads, improperly tightened fasteners or damage to components.
NOTE: Do not use any type of sealant on the cylinder head gasket (unless specified).
  1. Clean the cylinder head bolt holes with a thread chaser and compressed air.
  2. Check the cylinder head locating pins for proper installation.
  3. Place a new cylinder head gasket over the engine block dowel pins.
  4. Install the cylinder head to the engine block.
  5. Apply sealant (GM P/N 12346004 or equivalent) to cylinder head bolt threads.
  6. Install the cylinder head bolts. gm-03-50-685.gif

  7. Tighten the cylinder head bolts in sequence on the first pass.
    • Torque to: 22 ft. lbs. (30 Nm)
  8. Using a torque angle meter, tighten the long bolts (1, 2, 5, 6, 9, 10 and 13) on the second pass in sequence to 75°.
  9. Using a torque angle meter, tighten the medium bolts (14 and 17) on the second pass in sequence to 65°.
  10. Using a torque angle meter, tighten the short bolts (3, 4, 7, 8, 11, 12, 15 and 16) on the second pass in sequence to 55°.
  11. Install the valve rocker arms and pushrods.
  12. Install the power steering pump mounting bracket stud.
    • Torque to: 15 ft. lbs. (20 Nm)
  13. Loosely assemble the mounting bracket over the stud.
  14. Install all nuts and bolts finger tight.
    • Torque to: 30 ft. lbs. (41 Nm)
  15. Install the power steering pump pulley.
  16. Connect the electrical connector to the power steering pump.
  17. Install the exhaust manifold.
  18. Install the lower intake manifold.
  19. Install the valve rocker arm covers.
  20. Install the wiring bracket to the rear of the cylinder head.
  21. Connect the accessory bracket.
  22. Install the A/C compressor.
  23. Install the drive belt.
  24. Install the distributor cap.
  25. Connect the spark plug wires to the distributor cap.
  26. Install both heater hoses.
  27. Install the upper radiator hose.
  28. Install the air cleaner assembly.
  29. Refill the engine coolant.
  30. Connect the negative battery cable.

Aug 31, 2010 | Chevrolet Suburban 1500 Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

How do you replace ball joints


Removing the Ball Joint Step 1 Loosen the lug nuts on the front wheel assembly with the ball joint you need to replace. Do not remove the lug nuts.
Step 2 Set the transmission in neutral (manual) or park (automatic) and raise the wheel off the ground using a floor jack. Then support the car on a jack stand.
Step 3 Chock the rear wheels and apply the parking brake.
Step 4 Remove the wheel lugs and the wheel assembly.
Step 5 Remove the mounting nut and dished washer that secure the stabilizer bar to the control arm. Use a wrench or ratchet and socket.
Step 6 Unscrew and remove the mounting bolt and nut holding the inner side of the control arm to the car's body. This will relieve the tension on the stabilizer bar. Use a wrench to hold the mounting bolt as you unscrew the nut with a wrench or ratchet and socket.
Step 7 Unscrew the bolt on the steering knuckle that holds the control-arm ball joint to the knuckle. Use a wrench or ratchet and socket.
Step 8 Spread the steering knuckle joint that holds the control-arm ball joint to the knuckle. Use a large screwdriver or pry bar. Then separate the ball joint from the steering knuckle.
Step 9 Pull the control arm from the stabilizer bar.
Step 10 Remove the stabilizer bar spacer from the control arm and keep it in a secure place. You will need to use it on the new control-arm ball joint assembly.
Installing the Ball Joint Step 1 Insert the new control-arm ball joint stud into the steering knuckle joint. As you look through the mounting bolt hole on the steering knuckle, align the notch on the ball joint stud with the hole. Insert a new ball joint mounting bolt and start a new nut on the bolt. Tighten the nut.
Step 2 Mount the stabilizer bar spacer in the control arm, then insert the stud bolt at the end of the stabilizer bar into the control arm mounting hole and spacer.
Step 3 Set the other end of the control arm in its mounting position and insert the mounting bolt. Then start the mounting nut on the bolt by hand.
Step 4 Hold the head of the mounting bolt that secures the control arm to the car's body using a wrench, then tighten the nut.
Step 5 Secure the stabilizer bar to the control arm with the dished washer and mounting nut. Tighten the nut.
Step 6 Install the wheel assembly and lugs. Tighten the lugs with the lug wrench just enough to hold the wheel assembly firmly in place.
Step 7 Lower the vehicle and finish tightening the wheel lugs.
Step 8
Remove the chocks from the rear wheels.

Aug 08, 2010 | 1998 Ford Escort

1 Answer

Fan clutch removal


the four bolts holding the fan clutch to the water pump pulley are loosened counter clockwise. If you don't have a pulley holding tool at hand, use a wrench(closed end side) as a locking leverage on the studs(do not place the wrench on the nuts) while loosening the nuts 1 by 1 with another wrench. When reinstalling use the same method, but place black elec tape over the studs(prevent thread damage) after you hand tighten the bolts for the fan clutch. hopefully this helps

Jul 20, 2009 | 1994 Toyota Pickup

3 Answers

Rear wheel removal & oil filter cap w/stripped bolts


I would tap the nut with a hammer then use vice grips on the filter nut. I would ensure the corect wrench is used on the axle bolt and give it a good tap as well before wrenching it off. Try the folks at

www.hondabikes.net
I use em for my 750 and 650 honda.

Jan 20, 2009 | 1982 Honda GL 1100 Gold Wing

1 Answer

Wheel studs or bolts


Hello Miguel Thank you for using FixYa.com my name is David I hope this Helps you out.
Studs often get damaged from overtightening or from cross threading a nut on the threads. A damaged stud is replaced by unscrewing it from the part and installing a new one of the exact same size.
Stud replacement can be difficult because the stud has often been in place for a long period of time. There has been constant heating and cooling, corrosion, and rust buildup between the stud threads and the internal threads of the part. These factors combine to make some studs very difficult to remove.
The first step in stud removal is to use penetrating fluid to remove the corrosion to free the stud from its mating threads. Soak the area of the threads with penetrating fluid. Allowing the fluid to soak into the threads overnight will make it easier to remove the stud.
Before removing the old stud, measure the distance it sticks up from the surface. This measurement will be needed later when installing the new stud. Use a 6-inch scale to measure from the part surface to the top of the stud. Write the measurement down so it can be referred to later.
A stud remove is used to remove studs. It is installed over the stud. The jaws on the stud remover grip the outside of the stud. A wrench fits on the stud remover and allows the technician to rotate the stud in a counterclockwise direction to remove the stud.
If a stud remover is not available, a stud can be removed with two nuts. Locate two nuts that are the correct thread size. To thread onto the stud. Start one nut and thread it all the way down to the bottom of the stud. This nut will be the drive nut. Start another nut and thread it down until it contacts the first nut. This is called the jam nut.
Put a wrench on the bottom drive nut and hold it in place. Put another wrench on the jam nut and tighten, or "jam" it against the drive nut. The jam nut will now hold the drive nut in position on the stud.
Now put an open-end wrench on the bottom drive nut. Turn the nut in a counterclockwise direction. Turning the nut in this direction causes it to want to unscrew the stud. Instead the forces cause the stud to unscrew.
When the old stud is out, inspect the internal thread. If it appears rusty or damaged, clean up the thread by running the correct size tap through the threads as previously explained. Compare the new stud with the old one. The studs should be exactly the same thread size and the same length.
Check the vehicle's service manual to determine if the threads of the new stud should be coated. If the stud should be locked in place and not easily removed, you may need to use a threadlocking compound or threadsealing compound. Threadlocking compounds are on studs and other fasteners when vibration might cause them to unscrew. Thread sealants are used when a stud extends where liquids, such as oil or coolant, could get on the fastener.
Antiseize compound is used on the stud threads to prevent the stud from reacting with the metal on the internal threads. If this happens, the stud could stick or seize. Antiseize compound prevents this reaction and makes the stud easier to remove the next time.
After the new stud is properly coated, it can be installed. Start the stud by hand, making sure it enters the threads securely. Turn the stud in as far as possible by hand before using any tools. Then use two nuts as described earlier to drive the stud into the part. Use the depth measurement made on the old stud to be sure it is driven in the correct depth.

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Chnaging rear brake rotors


they often rust in place, try hittig them with a hammer around the bolt holes to free them.  if they are loose but still don't come off the emergency brake will need adjustment inside the vehicle.

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