Question about 2006 Yamaha V Star Silverado

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Riding a 2007 650 vstar encountered some acceleration issues when opening the throttle about 1/2 way. Engine seems to stumble and miss. Added some stabilizer and some Lucas injector cleaner. Changed oil at 4800 mile have about 5050 on it now. I have read that there are some issues concerning the ethanol in the fuels and that the stabilizer and injector cleaner could help.

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Stars seem prone to fuel system issues, mine keeps me amused with its antics. I usually take it for a good romp now and then to show it who's boss.
I'd suggest changing gas stations to avoid the ethanol additive which causes gumming up of some fuel lines, disintegration of others and somehow manages to hydrate the gasoline to where it burns irregularly. Additives will be your salvation if you can't escape the ethanol.

Posted on Sep 10, 2009

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4 Answers

It will not accelerate. I push on the gas and it won't go. I changed the oil a week ago and about a year ago i changed the fuel pump


Well an oil change is probably not the cause.
What IS it doing? You're telling me what it isn't doing...
Does the motor rev up?

Jun 10, 2015 | 2002 Chevrolet Tahoe

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My 1984 gl1200a goldwing has a rattle in motor when it is accelerated quickly when in nutral and rattles when riding above 3200-3400 rpm changed oil cut filter apart no metal in it sounds like spark k


1. add an octane booster to the fuel or try some high octane fuel (93 or above) and see if it stops rattling. Also make sure that the engine is not being lugged (throttled hard at low engine speeds) while in driving. If the rattling goes away or decreases check the fuel quality or, it probably has some engine issues like carbon build-up in the engine, overheating, or the timing may be off, or the engine is not running on all 4 cylinders.

Aug 06, 2012 | 1984 Honda GL 1200 Aspencade Gold Wing

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P0121 generic throttle/pedal position sensor a circuit range/ performance


P0121 - Throttle Position Sensor/Switch A Circuit Range/Performance Problem

The Throttle position sensor is a potentiometer that measures the amount of throttle opening. As the throttle is opened, the reading (measured in volts) goes up. The powertrain control module (PCM) supplies a 5 Volt reference signal to the throttle position sensor (TPS) and usually a ground also. A general measurement is: at idle = .5 Volts; full throttle = 4.5 Volts. If the PCM detects that the throttle angle is greater or less than it should be for a specific RPM, it will set this code.

Potential Symptoms: Symptoms of a P0121 trouble code could include:
Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) illumination (Check Engine Light or Service Engine Soon light)
Intermittent stumble on acceleration or deceleration
Blows black smoke on acceleration
No start

Causes: A code P0121 may mean that one or more of the following has happened:
TPS has intermittent open or short internally
Harness is rubbing and causing an open or short in the wiring
Bad connection at the TPS
Bad PCM (less likely)
Water or corrosion in connector or sensor

Possible Solutions:
1. If you have access to a scan tool, see what the idle and WOT (wide open throttle) readings are for the TPS. Check if they're close to the specifications mentioned above. If not, then replace the TPS and re-check.
2. Check for an intermittent open or short in the TPS signal. To do that, you can't use a scan tool. You'll need an oscilliscope. The reason is because scan tools take samplings of many different readings over just one or two data lines and can miss an intermittent drop out. Hook up your oscilliscope and watch the signal. It should sweep up and down smoothly with no drop outs or spikes.
3. If no problems were noticed, perform a wiggle test. Do this by wiggling the connector and harness while watching the pattern. Does it drop out? If so, replace TPS and re-check.
4. If you have no TPS signal, check for 5 Volt reference at the connector. If it's present, check the ground circuit for open or shorts.
5. Make sure the signal circuit isn't 12V. It should never have battery voltage. If it does, trace circuit for short to voltage and repair.
6. Look for any water in the connector and replace TPS as necessary.

Other TPS sensor and circuit related DTCs: P0120, P0122, P0123, P0124

May 01, 2011 | Volkswagen New Beetle Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

This car has 51,000 miles. Engine reads 16v ztec. Stumbled on acceleration. Cleaned the throttle body and mass air flow. Took it for a run and it threw the first check engine light, Had auto zone pull the...


All I am getting from your discription, is that you
have a code & a misfire ,you have yet to diagnose.

Except for replacing the wires, that should last the life
of the car,your doing okey

You now are embarking on throwing parts at it,
not diagnosing.

I can't tell you how to continue,as I don't know
if have any test equip or skills required.

You may have a bad ignition module or other
issues

Again,test,don't install 1 part,unless something
tests bad.

Feb 22, 2011 | 2001 Ford Focus

1 Answer

1985 Yamaha Virago 1000 (not XJ 900 F) Put stage 1 kit in about 3 years ago and have made about 30 adjustments with no luck. Motors idles fine. Upon acceleration between Off idle and 2500 rpm motor...


Hi, Rdrudolph1 if you have changed your fuel delivery system, air filter size or flow rate, mufflers or exhaust system or a significant change in altitude your carburetors need re-tuning and if your fuel system (gas tank, filters, fuel valve and carburetor) is contaminated with ethanol sludge, varnish, rust, dirt, water etc. or your bike has been sitting for months or years without running these components must be "PROPERLY" cleaned and reassembled "CORRECTLY" before any adjustments can be made. Tuning your carburetor is fairly simple once you understand the basic principals. You engine is a simple airbox sucking air in and blowing it out, it is finely tuned at the factory for maximum performance once you upset that delicate balance by changing air filters, camshafts or exhaust systems your performance may go down the and the engine may run poorly, you need to compensate the air-fuel mixture in the carburetor in order for the engine to run smoothly and at peak performance. If you are running multi carburetors you need to sync them first and make sure your air cleaner element is clean and dry for paper elements or lightly oiled for foam and meshed elements and properly installed. Here is how and where you compensate trouble: "TIP" if your engine "BOGS" your not getting enough fuel.
1. Closed to 1/8 throttle is managed by the air screw and pilot/slow jet.
2. 1/8 to 1/4 throttle is managed by the air-screw, pilot/slow jet, and throttle slide.
3. 1/4 to 1/2 throttle is managed by the throttle slide and jet needle.
4. 1/2 to 3/4 throttle is managed by the jet needle, needle jet, main jet, and air jet.
5. 3/4 to wide open throttle is managed by the main jet and air jet.
6. Wide open throttle is managed by the main jet.
If you are running lean, spark plug electrode color is white, engine runs hot and feels like it is starving for fuel you need to go up on the jet size or move the c-clip down one notch. If you are running rich, spark plug color is black or dark gray, the engine runs cool, and bogs down when accelerating you need to go down on jet size or move the c-clip up one notch. When your carburetor is properly tuned for maximum performance your spark plug electrode will be a light tan color like coffee with cream. If you prefer fuel economy over performance you can go down on main jet sizes until a satisfactory level of lower performance is acceptable versus MPH, your spark plug color will be whiter and your engine will run warmer. These tuning adjustments will only make improvements if your intake and exhaust system have no air leaks or sealing issues and the entire electrical system is in proper working order and you have no mechanical issues.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
ViragoTechForum com Yamaha Virago XV Forums That Rock
Carburator Theory and Tuning
Yamaha 1986 XV1000 Service Manual
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Yamaha 1989 XV1000 Owner Manual

Aug 07, 2010 | Yamaha XJ 900 F Motorcycles

1 Answer

XL883 appears to have no power --- open throttle and it doesn't respond --- doesn't seem to be missing - bad gas?


I tried to answer this from an e-mail I got from FixYa, don't know if you got it. So, let's do it again.

Take the air cleaner cover and filter off so that you can see into the carb. With the engine OFF, crank the throttle wide open. As you twist the throttle grip, you should see a stream of fuel squirting into the carb. If you don't see this, the accelerator pump may not be working but this would cause the bike to stumble badly when trying to accelerate.

Now, start the engine and rev it a bit. Don't hold your face to close to the carb. Watch to see if the slide moves up and back down rapidly. If it doesn't, you may have a hole in the diaphragm that controls it.

Both of these scenarios are highly unlikely but possible. Try changing the fuel and see if that helps. What is so unusual is that you say the engine is not missing. When I asked if it had been sitting up I meant for about a year or longer. Sometimes the gasoline in the float bowl evaporates and gums up the jets in the carb but usually the bike spits back out of the carb and generally runs very badly.
Good Luck
Steve
wd4ity@bellsouth.net

Apr 27, 2010 | 2002 Harley Davidson XL Sportster 883

1 Answer

1994 Silverado stumbles on acceleration when cold


Is the check engine light on? If it is, take the truck to an autoparts store and have them use a scan tool to retrieve the fault code(s) stored in the computer. I would suspect a faulty throttle position sensor or bad EGR valve, but the code(s) should narrow the problem down. Sure hope this helped.

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check the throttle position sensor and also check for air intake leaks at the throttle body

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check your coils and wires to them had same proplem and found 1 of the grey wires to the coil was disconnected

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