Question about 1994 Honda VT 1100 C Shadow

2 Answers

Hej i have problems with cdi on vt 1100 94 the ignition disaper about 1500 omd stator, batteri, regulator is ok

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  • info80476 Sep 12, 2009

    hey



    the ignition problem is there allways.



    only the ignition is cutting out



    the ignition is is disapering sporadic and spluttering



    best regards



    torben jacobsen



    mc 1 dk

×

2 Answers

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  • Honda Master
  • 75,117 Answers

Has the ignition pickup been replaced? this is the weak point of any motorcycle ignition system, it is located under the smaller of the two side covers, check the resistance hot, it should be around 150 Ohms.

Posted on Sep 12, 2009

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  • Master
  • 6,966 Answers

Hi and welcome to FixYa,

A couple of clarifying questions:

  • does the ignition problem come about even when just idling or revved to 1500 or only when in gear/accelerating;
  • does all electrical cut out including the lights or just the ignition at 1500;
  • what is the battery voltage at 1500 RPM;
  • does the CDI abnormally heats up;
  • is the disappearing ignition sudden & abrupt or sporadic & spluttering.
Good luck and thank you for asking FixYa.

Posted on Sep 07, 2009

  • Louie  Role
    Louie Role Sep 12, 2009

    Appreciate your postback and additional information.

    If the problem is electrical / ignition related, when the engine is running, vary the RPM and initially check for consistency of:


    • IGN + 12 volts DC on the black/white wires going to both ignition coils;

    • pulsating high AC voltage on the blue/yellow and the yellow/blue wires coming from the CDI going to the ignition coils;

    • pulsating low AC voltage (0.5VAC) between the white/blue and the blue wires coming from the ignition pulser going to the CDI.

    Postback results of above initial tests.

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1 Answer

Checking the stator?


Bike does not have CDI it has electronic ignition through ECM

You want to check the wires from the alternator (the stator) to the regulator. I also do not know what three wire you are referring to as the stator has only two on XL and so does the regulator to main fuse/battery harness.


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Hero Honda 2nd CDI unit has blown along with a few bulbs in a month


Hi, Anonymous before testing any electrical component in the Charging System it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage, the battery is faulty and must be replaced. AGM type batteries fall into this scenario more so than lead acid batteries.
1. Battery Test:
The battery needs to be a fully charged and load tested to ensure proper readings, connections need to be clean and tight. If you are not working with a fully charged and functional battery, all other voltage tests will be incorrect. Standing battery Voltage should be 12.5-13.2 DCV.
2. Charging System Voltage Test:
Start motorcycle, measure DC volts across the battery terminals you should have a reading of approximately 13.2-15 DC Volts.
3. Connections and wires:
Inspect the regulator stator plug, and check the battery terminals for connection corrosion. If everything seems to be in order, move on to number 4 below to determine if there's a failed component.
4. Stator Checks/Rotor Check: Each of the following tests isolates the Stator & Rotor. If AC output and resistance test fail and stator test passes then the rotor is at fault (Pull Primary covers and inspect rotor for damage).
5. AC Output Check:
Unplug the regulator plug from the stator start motorcycle and change Voltmeter to AC volts. Probe both stator wires with your meter lead. The motorcycle should be putting out approximately 18-20 ACV per 1,000 rpm. Reading will vary depending on system, check service manual specification
Generic Specs:
22 amp system produces about 19-26 VAC per 1,000 rpm
32 amp system produces about 16-20 VAC per 1,000 rpm
45 amp system produces about 19-26 VAC per 1,000 rpm
Stator Resistance Check:
Switch your multimeter to Ohm x 1 scale. Probe each stator wires with meter leads and check resistance on the meter.
Resistance should be in the range of 0.1-0.5 Ohms. Reading will vary depending on the system, check the service manual for specifications.
Generic Specs:
22 amp system produces about 0.2 to 0.4 ohms
32 amp system produces about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms
45 amp system produces about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms
Stator Ground Check:
Switch your multimeter to Ohm x 1 scale.
Probe each stator wire with your positive lead on the multimeter and the negative to ground.
There should be no continuity to ground on either wire.
If there is continuity your stator is shorted to ground and must be replaced.
5. Regulator Test:
Each of the following tests isolates the regulator only, so if any of these tests fail, the regulator is at fault.
Identifying Wires:
Battery Charge Lead- Wire going from regulator to battery positive.
AC output leads- Wires coming from the Stator to the regulator.
Ground- Wire from Regulator to ground or regulator may be grounded via the physical bolting to chassis.
Regulator Ground Test: Ensure the regulator body is grounded or grounding wire is fastened tightly to a good ground (you should verify this by checking continuity from regulator body to chassis ground).
Fwd/Reverse Bias Test/Diode Test:
This check is testing the Diode function to ensure it is regulating the AC current for the stator into DC Current.
Switch multimeter to Diode Scale.
Place your Multimeter positive lead on each AC output wire.
Place your multimeter negative lead on the battery Charge wire.
The meter should read voltage typically around .5 volts.
Next, switch your multimeter leads putting the negative lead on the AC output wires and the Positive lead on the Battery Charge Wire. The reading should be Infinite. With your meter on the same setting, place your multimeter positive lead on the regulator ground wire or to the regulator directly, and then place your meter negative lead on the AC output leads.
The meter should read voltage typically around .5 volts.
Next, switch your multimeter leads putting the negative lead on the regulator ground and the Positive lead on the AC output wires. The reading should be Infinite.
Note: Below is a table to show the readings:
Positive Lead Negative Lead Reading
AC output 1 Battery charge lead Voltage
AC output 2 Battery Charge Lead Voltage
Battery charge lead AC output 1 ?
Battery charge lead AC output 2 ?
Ground AC output 1 Voltage
Ground AC output 2 Voltage
AC output 1 Ground ?
AC output 2 Ground ?
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
http://racetechelectric.com/files/pdf/rte_troubleshooting_flow_chart.pdf
How To Fix Motorcycle Battery Charging System
Troubleshooting Motorcycle Electrical Circuits Quick Simple Methods 92...
How to Test Batteries Fuses and Relays Electrical Diagnosis 101
http://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-honda


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2 Answers

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1 Answer

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All fuses must test and be good, including the ones not in the fuse box. The stator has AC voltage out to the regulator, so you are looking for the phase wires from stator to rectifier, isolate them(disconnect them) and read AC volts from these wires(not to ground but to each other) there are 3 different combinations so write down what they are.you need three sets of numbers around 50 Volts AC with the rpms aroung 1500. if you dont get about the same on each of these you are probably looking at replacing the stator.the wires in the stator sometimes loose their protective coating and then develope too much resistance to output enough power to keep your battery full.(try disconnect all ubnessesary add ons) The wires from stator to rectifier often get hot and melt if not kept clean inside the connectors.(look fot wires that have been hot) Reconnect any that have damage.

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2 Answers

I have a 1980 suzuki 850 gs and its not charging the battery properly what should i do and where is the charging system located on the engine


As suggested, check the voltage with the engine running accross the battery. If its below 14 volts you have an issue with the stator windings/regulator/rectifier/wiring.
Do the cheapest thing first and clean up all electrical connections, esp the earths.
A manual will tell you how to test the charging system, but the Suzuki GS range has always had charging issues.
The simplist method is to fit the combined reg/rectifier unit from a Honda CB250/400 Superdream.
Always keep your engine oil topped to the max mark, as this cools the stator.
Dont leave this, it is not unknown for the entire system to fail including the CDI if left unchecked.

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1 Answer

No spark from CDI Unit. bike is Bug Jive 50. Motor cut out while riding, checked all obvious things, lights OK, Battery Ok


Replace the magneto/stator, CDI and voltage regulator/rectifier. Usually if one messes up they all go bad.

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1 Answer

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Sounds like the CDI was bad to begin with not the stator. The stator puts out unregulated power. The CDI regulates the voltage output as well as sends power to the coils. Hope this helps...

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Hi and welcome to FixYa,

Would this help? From the stator:
  • 3 yellows to the rectifier/regulator combo;
  • blue & green from the pulser coil to the CDI.  The blue here is actually connected to the ground.  The CDI's ground wire is black/white;
  • (near the stator) single blue to the CDI.

Good luck and thank you for asking FixYa.

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1 Answer

My battery isnt getting charged on my motorbike from engine


Hi and welcome to FixYa,

Almost always, your described problem indicates a charging issue. This points to the bike's battery not charging. Suspects would be:
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  • connectors to voltage regulator (likely). Check/clean corrosion/burnt marks;
  • stator and/or the wires coming from it (least likely).
A CDI is a capacitive discharge ignition. This is an electronic module that fires the ignition coil.

Parts would depend on where you are. Often, other riders would provide information for parts source.

Good luck and thank you for using FixYa.

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