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i have problems with cdi on vt 1100 94
Has the ignition pickup been replaced? this is the weak point of any motorcycle ignition system, it is located under the smaller of the two side covers, check the resistance hot, it should be around 150 Ohms.
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Bike does not have CDI it has electronic ignition through ECM
You want to check the wires from the alternator (the stator) to the regulator. I also do not know what three wire you are referring to as the stator has only two on XL and so does the regulator to main fuse/battery harness.
Hi, Anonymous before testing any electrical component in the Charging System it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage, the battery is faulty and must be replaced. AGM type batteries fall into this scenario more so than lead acid batteries.
1. Battery Test:
The battery needs to be a fully charged and load tested to ensure proper readings, connections need to be clean and tight. If you are not working with a fully charged and functional battery, all other voltage tests will be incorrect. Standing battery Voltage should be 12.5-13.2 DCV.
2. Charging System Voltage Test:
Start motorcycle, measure DC volts across the battery terminals you should have a reading of approximately 13.2-15 DC Volts.
3. Connections and wires:
Inspect the regulator stator plug, and check the battery terminals for connection corrosion. If everything seems to be in order, move on to number 4 below to determine if there's a failed component.
4. Stator Checks/Rotor Check: Each of the following tests isolates the Stator & Rotor. If AC output and resistance test fail and stator test passes then the rotor is at fault (Pull Primary covers and inspect rotor for damage).
5. AC Output Check:
Unplug the regulator plug from the stator start motorcycle and change Voltmeter to AC volts. Probe both stator wires with your meter lead. The motorcycle should be putting out approximately 18-20 ACV per 1,000 rpm. Reading will vary depending on system, check service manual specification
22 amp system produces about 19-26 VAC per 1,000 rpm
32 amp system produces about 16-20 VAC per 1,000 rpm
45 amp system produces about 19-26 VAC per 1,000 rpm
Stator Resistance Check:
Switch your multimeter to Ohm x 1 scale. Probe each stator wires with meter leads and check resistance on the meter.
Resistance should be in the range of 0.1-0.5 Ohms. Reading will vary depending on the system, check the service manual for specifications.
22 amp system produces about 0.2 to 0.4 ohms
32 amp system produces about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms
45 amp system produces about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms
Stator Ground Check:
Switch your multimeter to Ohm x 1 scale.
Probe each stator wire with your positive lead on the multimeter and the negative to ground.
There should be no continuity to ground on either wire.
If there is continuity your stator is shorted to ground and must be replaced.
5. Regulator Test:
Each of the following tests isolates the regulator only, so if any of these tests fail, the regulator is at fault.
Battery Charge Lead- Wire going from regulator to battery positive.
AC output leads- Wires coming from the Stator to the regulator.
Ground- Wire from Regulator to ground or regulator may be grounded via the physical bolting to chassis.
Regulator Ground Test: Ensure the regulator body is grounded or grounding wire is fastened tightly to a good ground (you should verify this by checking continuity from regulator body to chassis ground).
Fwd/Reverse Bias Test/Diode Test:
This check is testing the Diode function to ensure it is regulating the AC current for the stator into DC Current.
Switch multimeter to Diode Scale.
Place your Multimeter positive lead on each AC output wire.
Place your multimeter negative lead on the battery Charge wire.
The meter should read voltage typically around .5 volts.
Next, switch your multimeter leads putting the negative lead on the AC output wires and the Positive lead on the Battery Charge Wire. The reading should be Infinite. With your meter on the same setting, place your multimeter positive lead on the regulator ground wire or to the regulator directly, and then place your meter negative lead on the AC output leads.
The meter should read voltage typically around .5 volts.
Next, switch your multimeter leads putting the negative lead on the regulator ground and the Positive lead on the AC output wires. The reading should be Infinite.
Note: Below is a table to show the readings:
Positive Lead Negative Lead Reading
AC output 1 Battery charge lead Voltage
AC output 2 Battery Charge Lead Voltage
Battery charge lead AC output 1 ?
Battery charge lead AC output 2 ?
Ground AC output 1 Voltage
Ground AC output 2 Voltage
AC output 1 Ground ?
AC output 2 Ground ?
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day. http://racetechelectric.com/files/pdf/rte_troubleshooting_flow_chart.pdf How To Fix Motorcycle Battery Charging System Troubleshooting Motorcycle Electrical Circuits Quick Simple Methods 92... How to Test Batteries Fuses and Relays Electrical Diagnosis 101 http://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-honda
there are fuses to check, and a voltage regulator. Test the fuses, dont just see if they look ok. Wires from the stator to the volt regulator often get very hot if they tarnish or corrode,check them and the connectors for heat damage,clean them or replace them (it is recomended to solder the new end to the wire to get the best performance). the stator output can be measured in volts AC this power reading is done from one to the other to the next until all combinations have been noted on the wires from the stator, not to ground! ( isolate these wires with the engine running around 1500 rpms when reading volts AC.) after the stator comes the v-reg. it's output has been rectified to DC.this is where the battery gets its charge from.If you need more directions just give a shout
All fuses must test and be good, including the ones not in the fuse box. The stator has AC voltage out to the regulator, so you are looking for the phase wires from stator to rectifier, isolate them(disconnect them) and read AC volts from these wires(not to ground but to each other) there are 3 different combinations so write down what they are.you need three sets of numbers around 50 Volts AC with the rpms aroung 1500. if you dont get about the same on each of these you are probably looking at replacing the stator.the wires in the stator sometimes loose their protective coating and then develope too much resistance to output enough power to keep your battery full.(try disconnect all ubnessesary add ons) The wires from stator to rectifier often get hot and melt if not kept clean inside the connectors.(look fot wires that have been hot) Reconnect any that have damage.
As suggested, check the voltage with the engine running accross the battery. If its below 14 volts you have an issue with the stator windings/regulator/rectifier/wiring.
Do the cheapest thing first and clean up all electrical connections, esp the earths.
A manual will tell you how to test the charging system, but the Suzuki GS range has always had charging issues.
The simplist method is to fit the combined reg/rectifier unit from a Honda CB250/400 Superdream.
Always keep your engine oil topped to the max mark, as this cools the stator.
Dont leave this, it is not unknown for the entire system to fail including the CDI if left unchecked.