Question about 2006 Husqvarna TC 250

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Blown clutch basket on a TC 250 2006. Is it a common problem?

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Depends how you ride but yes its happened to a friend of mine before

Posted on Jun 23, 2010

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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I have a 2004 gmc yukon xlt I disengaged the TC light so the light stays on all the time I tried to push the light button to re engage it but i believe im not doing some thing right ??? can some one tell...


Most automatic TC systems will turn themselves back on the next time you start the vehicle (which turns the light off). If you pushed the button turning the light on and pushed it again right away and it didn't turn off there's a chance of a blown fuse, if you're lucky enough to still have the owners manual there should be a fuse map in the book telling you which one is for the TC system. Also the book SHOULD have instructions on how to turn it on or off correctly. If you don't have the book you may want to have someone check your fuses for you, unless you are comfortable pulling them one at a time to see if any are blown.

There is a possibility that there is a problem with the TC system. There is a common problem with GM vehicles between 2001 and 2005, there are wires that run out to your wheel bearing hub assembly for the ABS and TC systems, because of the way these wires are run there is a tendency for one or more of the wires to become pinched causing ABS or TC problems, it's a simple fix but may take a professional to locate and repair the damaged wire....

Hope this helps, good luck

Jan 14, 2014 | 2004 GMC Yukon

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The machine doesn't spin properly and doesn't drain the water


see this causes and fix it. God bless you
Lid Switch Assembly If the washer won't spin the lid switch assembly might be defective. This is a very common problem. The lid switch assembly can fail either mechanically or electrically. Test any electrical switches with an Ohm meter for continuity. The switches should have continuity according to their design.

Motor Coupling If the washer won't spin the motor coupling might have failed. The motor coupling connects the motor to the washer transmission. It is designed to fail if the washer is overloaded in order to protect both the motor and transmission. Another common problem is the lid switch.

Drive Belt If the washer won't spin, check the drive belt. If the belt is broken or if it isn't tight on the pulleys the washer won't spin properly.

Door Lock Motor and Switch Assembly If the washer spin the door lock assembly should be checked. The door lock can fail either mechanically or electrically. Test any switches on the door lock with an Ohm meter. The switches should have continuity according to their design.
Motor Control Board If the washer won't spin the motor control board might be defective. The motor control board provides power to the motor as well as direction and force. If the motor control board is defective the washer may not work at all or function properly.

Drive Block If the washer won't spin the drive block might be worn out or may have come loose. Underneath the agitator the drive block connects the inner tub (the one that spins around) to the transmission. If the drive block wears out the transmission shaft will still spin but the tub may not - or it may spin slowly. This also usually causes a lot of noise. The drive block is relatively easy to replace.

Clutch Assembly If the washer won't spin, the clutch assembly might be worn out. The clutch assembly makes the connection between the transmission and the inner tub. It is designed to allow the tub to get up to the proper spin speed gradually. As the clutch wears out it may prevent the tub from spinning. The clutch is not repairable, if it is loud or not working properly it will need to be replaced.

Clutch Band kit If the washer won't spin, the clutch band kit might be worn out. The clutch makes the connection between the transmission and the inner tub. It is designed to allow the tub to get up to the proper spin speed gradually. As the clutch wears out it may prevent the tub from spinning. If the washer won't spin, this clutch band kit may need to be replaced.

Drive Motor If the washer won't spin the drive motor might be defective. This is not common. Check all of the other related parts to this symptom before replacing the motor. If the motor is visibly burned out or physically damaged It will have to be replaced.

Tub Bearing If the washer won't spin the tub bearing might have seized. This is a common problem and relatively easy to replace.

Tub Seal and Bearing Kit If the washer won't spin the tub seal and bearing might have seized. This is a common problem and relatively easy to replace.

Bearing If the washer won't spin the bearing might have seized. This is not common. The bearing doesn't require any normal maintenance. They generally go bad when the tub seal fails and allows water to leak past into the bearing.
Basket Drive If the washer won't spin the basket drive clutch might be worn out. The basket drive sits on top of the transmission and engages with the inner tub. If the basket drive wears out the tub won't spin.

Basket Drive Hub Kit If the washer won't spin the basket drive hub might be worn out. The hub is a set of plastic gears underneath the agitator. The basket drive hub kit is easy to replace with standard hand tools.
Transmission If the washer won't spin the transmission might be worn out or defective. There are numerous more likely causes when a washer won't spin, which should be checked first.
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Sep 28, 2012 | Hotpoint Washing Machines

1 Answer

Recently there is a lot of scratchy noise coming from an engine of my 2003 V-max when I rev it above 3000 rpm. It goes away when the clutch is pulled. Everything is functioning just fine, except that noise...


If noise goes away when clutch is pulled then it is a loose clutch basket,you need to replace clutch basket and clutch,They make complete replacment kits.Its not a big deal but I would stop riding it till you replace worn parts.Running it the way it is will result in a blown clutch and could do more damage.If you have some mechanical ability you can change this yourself.Good Luck Brian.....

May 29, 2011 | 2000 Yamaha V-Max

1 Answer

When running.. even with front brake,and clutch in,putting it in gear makes the bike die?


The clutch plates are stuck inside the clutch basket. This is real common if the bike has been sitting up for awhile. Clean & disassemble the clutch assembly to fix this problem.

Feb 09, 2011 | 2001 Yamaha YZF-R1

2 Answers

When I let the clutch out it makes some noise. It that the gear box going out ?


it can be a worn clutch basket, do you hear a rattle when engine is idling, and goes away when you pull clutch in? if so suspect worn clutch basket / bushes

Jun 04, 2010 | 1995 kawasaki VN 750 Vulcan

1 Answer

Oil pump on the TC 610/99


hi mate the oil pump is located on the left side of the engine and is behind the clutch basket . you need to remove left side case and remove clutch basket and is the second cog from front of engine good luck!

May 15, 2010 | 2000 Husqvarna TE 610

1 Answer

Misses at 3200 rpm


If you mean by Misses a vibration that occurs at 3000 to 3500, this is a shudder from the clutch basket. This happens to all 90 degree V-Twins, it is a harmonic between the firing pulse and the take up of the springs in the clutch basket. The basket won't fail but is a commonly complained problem. If the problem is a misfire I would go to your dealer and have the low end fueling increased, also check the Throttle position sensor.

Feb 15, 2010 | 2008 Suzuki DL 1000 V-Strom

1 Answer

Hi i have a vfr 750 1997 it has a clunking noise but when you pull the clutch in it stops ive been told its the clutch basket or the carbs want balancing is this serious?


Carbs out of balance will cause the clutch to judder, but clutch basket wear is common and is the remedy if you dont get rid after carb balance. most just live with it! unless it is really noisey

Jul 28, 2009 | Honda VF 750 C Magna Motorcycles

1 Answer

Kemore washer MD#24902200


This problem can be attributed to any one of the following items:

1. Worn Clutch/Brake assembly.
2. Gearcase (transmission) starting to go bad.
3. Basket Drive assembly worn or loose.

The more common problem is a worn clutch assembly, but you can't always be sure. If the gearcase fails, a common tell tale sign is a light colored oil leaking from it. You will notice puddles under the washer and/or spray pattern marks along the interior walls of the casing. Sometimes these two problems are interrelated as oil leaking from the gearcase can cause the clutch or brake to slip.

The following link explains how to replace the gearcase assembly:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r699497-replacing_gearcase

I'm not saying you have a bad gearcase at this point, but include this link because it gives information on how to remove the clutch/brake assembly. If you go to searspartdirect.com and type in your model number as "110.24902200" there are some very helpful drawings under the "Brake/Clutch/Gearcase/Motor/Pump" heading. The gearcase is listed as item 9, the entire clutch/brake assembly is listed as item 5. The Basket Drive is listed as item 1.

This problem can often be hard to diagnose as any one of these components mentioned can cause a slow spin problem. I would recommend you remove the outer casing and do a visual inspection of the gearcase and clutch assembly (under the wash tub), first. Let me know what you find. I hope this gives you some guidance.

PS A basket drive failure will require you to remove the wash tub to replace. Since the basket drive penetrates through the bottom of the wash tub, it is recommended that you also replace the wash tub seal. Let me know what your preliminary findings are before we touch on this topic.

Aug 28, 2008 | Kenmore 22422 Top Load Washer

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