The sprocket for the chain from the engine is it a left hand thread on an FZR1000 ie smallest spocket or righthand thread

best go to the spares shop for your make of bike as lh threads are few and far between as they fit a specific job

Look at the normal rotation of the sprocket. If it is the drive sprocket and it turns clockwise then it left hand threaded; counter clockwise right hand threaded.

Disconnect the battery. Drain the primary and remove the outer primay cover. Take the engine sprocket nut off, take the clutch adjuster out of the center of the clutch assembly and remove the mainshaft nut. This nut has LEFT HANDED THREADS. Remove the nut that holds the primary chain adjuster. Take the engine sprocket, clutch assembly, and primary chain off all together. Then, pull the rotor off the engine sprocket. It can be difficult to get off due to the strong magnets in it. Once off, there are four small bolts holding the stator on and two small screws holding the plug into the case. Installation is the reverse of disassembly. Torque the small Torx bolts that hold the stator on to 40 inch pounds. The engine sprocket nut torques to 150-165 foot pounds with one line of Loctite 271 heavy hold thread locker in it. The LEFT HANDED threaded mainshaft nut torques to 60-80 foot pounds with a single line of Loctite in it. You'll need a primary locking bar to keep the engine from turning while applying torque to the engine sprocket nut and the mainshaft nut.

Good Luck
Steve

Hi Josiah:
According with the repair guide...4.0L Engine

1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions section.
   
2. Drain the engine oil.
   
3. Remove or disconnect the following:
   Negative battery cable Engine from the vehicle Oil pan Engine front cover Cylinder heads
4. Lock the jackshaft tensioner by installing a pin.
   Jackshaft sprocket and chain assembly Left front cassette retaining bolt Cassette chain and tensioner assembly Rear jackshaft plug from the engine Right rear cassette retaining bolt and spacer Right rear cassette chain and tensioner Timing chain (s)
   
   

Fig. Remove the jackshaft sprocket-4.0L SOHC Engine 2000-2001
Zooming link for Remove the jackshaft sprocket-4.0L SOHC Engine 2000-2001

To install:

1. Install or connect the following:
   Timing chain(s) Right rear cassette chain, tensioner and sprocket Jackshaft sprocket and chain on the engine and remove the tensioner pin
   
2. Torque the jackshaft sprocket bolt in 2 stages:
   1. 32-35 ft. lbs. (43-47 Nm).
      
   2. Turn an additional 65 degrees.
      
3. Install or connect the following:
   Cylinder heads Front cover Oil pan Engine to the vehicle Negative battery cable
4. Fill the engine with clean oil.
   
5. Start the vehicle, check for leaks and repair if necessary.

1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions section.
   
2. With the vehicle in neutral, position it on a hoist.
   
3. Remove the intake manifold.
   
4. Remove the fuel supply manifold.
   
5. Remove the accessory drive belt.
   
6. Remove the thermostat housing.
   
7. Remove the roller followers.
   NOTE You must retime the LH and RH camshafts when either camshaft is disturbed. Turn the crankshaft clockwise to position the number one cylinder at top dead center (TDC).
   
   NOTE The special tool must be installed on the damper and should contact the engine block to position the engine at TDC.
   
8. Install the special tool.
   NOTE The right-hand camshaft sprocket bolt is a left-hand threaded bolt.
   NOTE If necessary, use camshaft gear torque adapter to loosen the camshaft sprocket bolt.

Hope this helps; also keep in mind that your feedback is important and I`ll appreciate your time and consideration if you leave some testimonial comment about this answer.

Thank you for using FixYa, have a nice day.

I assume you're talking about the front belt drive sprocket. First, disconnect the negative side of the battery. If you haven't already done so, you must drain the primary and remove the outer primary cover. Then you must take the engine compensator nut off and the nut that holds the primary chain adjuster. Remove the circlip and pull the clutch adjuster plate out of the center of the clutch. The mainshaft nut in the hole in the center of the clutch. The nut has LEFT-HANDED THREADS on it. Remove the engine compensator sprocket, primary chain, and clutch assembly all together. Then remove the small bolt that holds the jackshaft in and remove it and the coupling. Remove the starter. Then, take the bolts out and remove the inner primary cover. Now, you can see the front belt drive sprocket. You must take the large nut off the sprocket. It too has LEFT-HANDED THREADS. You need a special deep socket and a sprocket locking tool to get the sprocket off and retorque the nut when you put it back on. This is a major job requiring a fair amount of disassembly of the bike. If you're going to change the belt, the rear wheel and swingarm must come out as well. I would high recommend that you purchase a service manual to help with this project.

Good Luck
Steve

I'm going to assume that you are talking about how to remove the engine sprocket from the sprocket shaft in the primary cover.

First, disconnect the battery and drain the primary. Look underneath the primary and loosen the locknut for the primary chain adjuster and loosen the primary chain by turning the screw outwards a few turns.

Then take the derby cover off the primary and remove the spring and locknut for the clutch adjustment. Remove the screws from around the primary and break it loose from the engine. Turn the clutch adjustment screw clockwise while removing the primary cover. Lay the primary cover aside.

Now, there is a plate in the center of the clutch assembly held in with a circlip. Remove the circlip. Now you'll need either an air wrench or a locking bar to lock the primary to prevent it from turning so you can get the clutch hub nut and the engine sprocket nut off. The engine nut has right hand threads and comes off normally. The clutch hub nut has LEFT HANDED THREADS and you must turn it in reverse. Once you get the two nuts off, you can usually grab the engine sprocket and the clutch assembly and lift those two units and the chain off at once. Sometimes you may need a puller to get the engine sprocket off but usually it just comes right off.

Installation is the reverse with the engine nut being torques to 150 foot pounds and the clutch hub nut torqued to 60 foot pounds left handed.

Good Luck
Steve

The sprocket should be fixed to the outer clutch drum. With the engine off, and the bar and chain off, hold the sprocket with channel lock pliers and turn the outer clutch drum by hand. If the sprocket does not turn, but the drum does, then the clutch must be replaced. (Left hand threads) To keep the engine from turning while trying to remove the clutch internals, stuff starter cord into the upper cylinder head area so that the piston cannot rise above the top of the exhaust port. If you have a saw service shop near you, you might farm out the clutch replacement. It usually requires a special tool to turn the clutch internals. Good luck!

No they are not left hand thead,normal r/h thread.
make sure chain is still on bike and front sproket and then try good rattle gun. if this does not work,put bike in gear and hold on rear brake and use long breaker bar, if still no good will need to heat front sproket nut with oxy set very carefully and rattle off with rattle gun while nut is hot

I would start out with the left gear set to 2 and the right shifter set to 4 or 5. If that's too difficult, then shift the left gear to 1.

Most people really don't shift gears on bikes much and that's a shame because it can make cycling much easier. I would advise you to take some time to learn about shifting as it will make riding much easier, especially if there are any hills around.

The left hand shifter is for the 3 large gears in between your pedals. This shifter produces the biggest change in effort. As a general rule, use the first one for uphills, the middle for flats and the last one for downhills. Of course this is all relative to your conditioning. You should attempt to maintain a pedaling cadence of 75-90 (in general) so that you always feel like the pedals are spinning and that you are not grinding it out. The right hand shifter is for the 7 gears on the rear of the bike and are used for smaller changes. Here is a link that will provide more detailed info on this subject. Happy cycling!

http://coachlevi.com/cycling/complete-beginner-guide-to-bicycle-gears-shifting/

the clutch is held on by reverse threads.