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Re: Kawasaki GT 550_ How do you replace fork seals do i...
Hi buddy to make it idle on carbs there will be a screw turn it in 1/4 of a turn with the machine sarted and on the over flow is due to the floats either to low or sticking strip the bottom bowl off the carbs by 2-4 srews then inside is the float conected by a pivot pin you slide this out once the pin is out the float will come off with the inlet fuel valve still atached by the wire cage side this valve off and then bend the tab upwards the valve was hanging on this picture will demonstrate bud or if its just sticking unfree it with wd40 and then to the forks follow th instructions on this sit buddy http://www.motorcyclistonline.com/howto/replace_fork_seals/index.html
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I was told by many people it was a hard job. I didn't think so.
What you need is: New Seals. 8mm Allen Key. Half Inch Stocket bar AND Extender. Extra Fine Sand Paper/Polishing Device. Fork Oil + Measuring Jug. Threaded Bar with a Two 19mm Nuts Locked to each other on one end. Spanners. Screw Drivers.
How to do:
First Get the Front end off the Ground (ALOT, Center Stand on Bricks for extra height.)
Remove Front Wheel and Brake Calipers.
Open Drain Philips Screw on Base of Fork (Both Sides). Dont Lose Rubber washer under screw. Watch Out Also for Oil Being under Pressure.
Remove Nut from TOP of Fork (Alowing Handles and mirrors to come loose).
From Top you can see down tube has Nut/Cap with a Square Half Inch center. Use Socket Bar (and Extender if needed) without Bit to Remove reach in and remove. Watchout for Spring Pressure under the Cap/Nut.
Use Screw Driver or Hook of some kind to remove Preload Spacers, Washers AND Spring from Fork.
Slide your Threaded Bar with19mm Nuts (Make sure they are Locked Tight together at one end) down into the Fork and let it catch on the Oil Damper at the base. You will know when it's cought because you wont be able to spin the threaded bar anymore. This will stop the Damper from spinning while you undo the Allen Bolt at the very base under the fork (Outside).
Use Allen Key to remove Bolt from Underside of Fork While having someone or somthing hold the Threaded Bar form spinning.
Now look at the Old bust/leaking Oil Seal. There will be a Clip/Locking Spring in a Groove holding it in place.
Remove Clip without Damaging any part of clip or fork.
If Everything above was Done, you can now give the slider( Bottom Part) a big tug and it will all come lose.
One Part of the Oil damper will either fall off, or be left in the slider(Bottom Part). It slides over the Damper in the base of the tube.
Remove Two Split Washers from base of Tube and Copper Washer. Remove Old Oil Seal.
Place New Oil Seal on Gently.
Replace back on Copper washer, followed by two split washers.
Use Grease as a kind of glue to hold the part of damper that fell off back on.
Slide Slider back onto Tube.
Screw Allen Bolt back into base of slider as per originally was (Remeber to hold Threaded Bar if it starts spinning)
Push Gently new Oil Seal into Fork Slider for Snug Fit. Be Gental.
Replace Clip/Spring over top of Oil Seal Locking it in place.
Remove your threaded bar from top of Fork.
Replace Spring into Fork.
Replace Philips Oil Drain Screw into base of fork (Dont forget Rubber washer).
Now: For a GT550 (I am told also KZ550 but can confirm) you need 300ml of 15 weight Fork Oil. EACH Fork. So a Total of 600ml whole Job. IN EACH SIDE YOU WILL ADD ONLY 300ml of FORK OIL. (15w)
After this. Replace any washers, Preload Spacers and so back into for.
Replace Cap/Nut into Fork Tube with Socket Wrench and Extender.
Replace Handles and Moirrors and Nut holding both of these.
Replace back onto bike the Front Wheel
Check Brake Calipers for leaks and Pad Wear. It's Very Cheap to get new Pads. Not cheap to have months off work after a crash.
Replace back onto bike Calipers.
Pushing Bike (Not ride) test Brakes and Suspension.
At This point I am thinking your done. You may need to Add Air Preload into the Fork via the Air Valve. 4PSI is a Starting Point. I have run upto 15psi. Without Air in the Preload you may find it too soft. Upto you.
check first to see if the leaking fork has any rust pitting on the chrome,if it has and its a very small blemish then fettle it off first,and just replace the leaking seal,as the saying goes..if it aint broke dont fix it,if the seals had been in the forks for years and the bike not used then consider replacing both..
No special tools other than maybe an air-impact whench to remove the Allen bolts in the bottom of the fork sliders. These hold the botom of the metering rods into the forks and will spin if you don't have Honda's special tool which fits down the inside of the fork tube. Air wrench spins them off no problem.
V65 Sabre has fule filter behind battery and fule shutoff valve under seat.
Loosen upper triple-clamp pinch bolt before trying to remove fork cap.
Drain oil out of fork, then remove axle and access the metering rod holder bolt at the bottom inside the area whre the axles goes. Use an air wrench and appropriate Allen bit.
Remove fork cap, being careful of the spring pressure.
Remove fork from bike and take out spring and metering rod. Pry dust seal out of fork slider and use snap-ring pliers to remove retainer from beneath dust seal. Use fork tube to hammer seal and slider bushing out of fork slider.
Replace seal and use old seal to cushion it. Make a fork seal driver from split PVC pipe and hammer seal and slider bushing back in. Remove old seal and replace retainer clip. Install dust seal.
Reinstall on bike and install spring. With bike properly supported, stand on pegs and use ratchet, extension and socket to apply pressure to spring and thread cap carefully onto top of fork tube. Reinstall metering rod holder bolt in bottom of fork using thread-locker and air-wrench. Don't over-tighten; just ue high speed to conteract tendency of metering rod to spin inside slider.
Remove fork cap again and fill to appropriate level with 5 weight fork oil (Pro Honda SS-7 or equivalent). Use turkey-baster to remove excess oil to proper level (5 1/2 to 7 inches fully compressed depending on damping quality desired).
Remove front wheel. Loosen fork tube clamps at top and bottom of triple clamps. Slide fork tubes out and remove. Access to seals is from top of tube. Remove cover and unscrew cap. Shop manual for specific bike is $24-$30. Will show detailed instructions.
Angela, do you have a Clymer, Hayne, or service manual for the bike? If not you should get one, there is a lot of valuable information in there even if you don't do all the work yourself.
Replacing the fork seal requires putting the front end in the air, disconnecting everything from the front wheel (brake lines, speedometer cable if there is one), and dropping the wheel and fork tubes CAREFULLY to separate the two pieces of the fork tubes. Then grab the old seal and replace it with the new seal.
This short description is a VERY abbreviated and simplified version. It's not hard once you have done it a couple times but be very careful not to bend anything in your forks. They have springs inside them too. Change the oil while you are in there. Usually 10 or 15 weight fork oil but look in your manual. If you can't find a manual post again with your bike's year and we will see what we can come up with.
You just needed to.... remove front wheel, support bike on something, undo retaining bolts on forks, tap out fork legs from the top, using a soft mallet. Take out fork seals with a seal pick, (halfords) Replace old seal with new seals, in reverse order) sliding over the fork leg, tapping into place. Then put replace forks etc in reverse order (from dissassembly). Hope this helps