Question about 2004 Harley Davidson XL 883 Sportster
Jack up bike so front wheel is off the ground remove brake cal. wire it up out of way.then remove front fender.loosen axle nut and remove and remove wheel then loosen pinch bolt on the thriple trees hang on to fork tubes they may slide out
Posted on Sep 05, 2009
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: removal of front wheel
First remove some air from the tire so that it will be able to make through the forks once its loose. standing in front of bike facing it. on your left side of wheel is a bolt at the axel that should be a large allen/hex head bolt loosen it to take pressure off of axel. You will see a large hole on that same side of axel. I usually put a large screw driver through this to give me leverage for turning the nut on the other side of the wheel which is your next step. There may also be a cotter pin on one of the sides, Im thinking the right side but I'm drawing a blank since the bike isnt sitting in front of me right now. If you see one of course take it off and use a new one when you replace it. Before going much further you will need to remove the brake caliper. It will be heald on by two bolts that are probably dull gray in color and are obviously holding it to the fork. Dont let the brake hang once its loose. Prop it up so there isnt tension on the brake line. Go back to taking the wheel off. Use one hand to hold the screwdriver or other leverage device that you've stuck through the hole on the left side of the wheel and the other to turn the nut on the right side of the wheel. Take notice of washers and spacers and where they go. Laying down a piece of cardboard as a tray and using a sharpie to label what things are and where they go has always been helpful to me. Once the nut is loose you may need to do a little "hammering" to pursuade the axel to come out towards your right. I have hammering in quotations because you'll want to avoid actual metal on metal hammering. Just some slight tapping should get you going. And dont lose sight of those spacers and washers. They can role to the most inconvenient places. Once the axel is on its way you should be able to grab its end and pull the axel on out then pull the wheel forward and down through the forks.
Posted on Apr 21, 2009
The headline of your post seems to have it correct, you have a fork seal leaking. To replace the seal, you must remove the fork slider, the lower part of the fork tube to replace the seal and then refill the fork with the proper amount of the proper oil. Here's how you do it on a conventional front fork. This is not for an "inverted fork" where the top part is larger than the bottom.
Remove the front wheel, the caliper if it's on this side or you decide to do both sides. Loosen the pinch bolt on the back side of the lower triple tree. Remove the large nut on the top side of the upper triple tree. Caution: there is a large spring under the nut. Usually, if the bike is completely off the ground, the sping is almost fully extended but it will still have some pressure on it. Remove the spring and work the fork tube out of the triple trees. Turn the thing upside down and pour the oil out of it. Notice in the very bottom of the lower slider where the axle goes through, there is an 8mm hex head bolt. Using a brand new hex key, remove this bolt. A hex key socket on an air wrench helps to remove this bolt. It takes a "piloted key" but you can get it out with a regular one as long as it new and not rounded. Once the bolt is out, pull the top tube out of the lower tube. You'll see the oil seal in the top of the lower slider. Pull the seal out and replace it with a new one. Reassemble the entire assembly and install back into the triple trees. Add the proper amount of the proper weight oil. This is what is commonly called a "dry" fill since you took everything off and wiped it down. Then insert the spring tapered end first and put the large nut back on the top.
Then do the other side if you wish. Only do one side at the time. The remaining tube that is put together helps hold the tube you're working on extended.
Posted on Jul 21, 2010
First of all there not called bearings if you are refering to the rear shocks. The terminology used is confusing but I think you are refering to the rear shocks. If that is the case there is no bearings. The part you are refering too is called bushings. The bushing is between the shoch and the bolt itself allowing movement of the shock assembly. Over time the bushing develop wear or wear spots which cause a gap in the bushing itself. This gap once it starts will only get worse and could present itself as a dangerous situation given enough time and mileage. The 30,000 miles is merely a suggested time to replace for the worst conditions of riding. Not everyone rides double or runs on crappy roads, so the way the bike is riden has allot to due with it. However a good Harley Davidson Mechanic can examine the shocks and check for wear. Not all bikes need to have them replaced but Harley errors on the safe side factering the worse rinding condition to cause the replacement at 30,000 miles. My suggestion is to have a good dealer look at your shocks and determine if the bushings are okay or need to be replaced. One way of checking this is to raise the back wheel off the ground slightly and see if you can move the whole shock assembly side to side.....not up and down! If the shock assembly moves at all side to side its time to replace the bushings. As a general rule I would replace the whole shock assembly simply because if it is that worn around 30,000 miles the bike was ridin in harsh conditions and you can bet the shocks are not up to snuff either. You will also notice if you replce the whole shock assembly your bike will ride and feel like a new one again. Good luck and don't cut corners.......it may cost you allot more in the long run.
Posted on Jun 24, 2009
Tips for a great answer:
Jun 11, 2017 | Harley Davidson Motorcycles
May 17, 2014 | 2004 Harley Davidson XL 883 Sportster
Dec 01, 2012 | Harley Davidson FLSTC Heritage Softail...
Aug 17, 2012 | 2000 Harley Davidson XL 1200 S Sportster...
Jul 14, 2011 | Harley Davidson FXR Super Glide...
Jun 11, 2011 | Harley Davidson FXD Dyna Super Glide...
Sep 30, 2010 | 2000 Harley Davidson XL 1200 S Sportster...
Oct 16, 2009 | 2004 Harley Davidson XL 883 Sportster
Apr 01, 2009 | 2006 Harley Davidson XL 1200 C Sportster...
2,587 people viewed this question
Usually answered in minutes!
Step 2: Please assign your manual to a product: